went from pretty impressive stock to a slow turd after several hundreds of mods

[geauxktm,]

A couple weeks ago I got the front and Center differential locked, high torque servo, went from 12t to 10 t , rear Currie, methods, hyrax. This resulted in it going from stock beast to modified truck that looks great but it's barely drivable do too ridiculous cogging and very weak power thats mich less than stock.

The locked front tallest Universal Drake and I really wasn't even being hard on it at all . I am trying to figure out what to do and would really appreciate the help . I just took Mamba Max X the first one with Holmes Hobbies puller Pro 3500 how do I bomber and him told the motor dimensions are too small. I ordered the Mamba X along with the news censored Castle that I've heard is great and not sure where it's going or the size. Being told guys have been getting there uncensored stock setups to run very smoothly and this interest me because no reason to trash a motor with a couple hours on it.

I would love to be able to creep around and get some decent wheel spin but I definitely don't need a 40 mile an hour truck. I'm not sure if anyone has done it but I have gotten it in crawler type situation where wheel speed wasn't used intentionally and it really impressed me and was able to pull some lines my big boy trucks can't . The layout can make it pretty nasty that getting up stuff hand I guess my goal or what I'm wanting is to have a rock Ray that more capable of crawling if it has to be bouncer style crawling that's fine

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[CoolRunning]

I can't imagine a PP3500 being lightweight in power TBH. You definitely have some problems with your truck.

If you pull the motor out (5 minutes to test max) does your drivetrain spin freely? If not, it's a process of elimination. I imagine you know all this though you seem to be struggling and said someone else built up the truck for you.

It's really simple and just an hour to at least work out the problem. Check the ESC programming too.

My RR crawls kinda ok-ish (read poorly but the cogging is manageable) but I have zero issues with power even on 2S. The thing has 3S Yeti power and speed on 2S.

Maybe the Currie is the problem if it needed shimming and was made too tight or a bearing failed and that caused the failure of your front uni etc. Get the tools out and it'll be quickly evident.

[geauxktm,]

Originally Posted by CoolRunning

I can't imagine a PP3500 being lightweight in power TBH. You definitely have some problems with your truck.

If you pull the motor out (5 minutes to test max) does your drivetrain spin freely? If not, it's a process of elimination. I imagine you know all this though you seem to be struggling and said someone else built up the truck for you.

It's really simple and just an hour to at least work out the problem. Check the ESC programming too.

My RR crawls kinda ok-ish (read poorly but the cogging is manageable) but I have zero issues with power even on 2S. The thing has 3S Yeti power and speed on 2S.

Maybe the Currie is the problem if it needed shimming and was made too tight or a bearing failed and that caused the failure of your front uni etc. Get the tools out and it'll be quickly evident.

Sorry I wasn't saying the puller Pro was in there I'm talking about it's still being the stock motor. Stupid text to talk messed that whole posts. Well I am currently putting the Mamba X and a new Castle sensored Motor Inn. The 1415 I believe and because I can't read that last post I don't remember what it said but I made it sound like a lot of things were more complicated and I just didn't make sense. It stock motor with all that other stuff and I was assuming I would get a reply mentioning a BEC needed to be added due to the servo robbing too much power. I've heard good things about the New Castle sensored Motors and guess I'll be finding out in the next day or two

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[CoolRunning]

I put in a 444oz Savox and it runs perfectly with the stock ESC with a $5 plug in cap. It's a good BEC IMO.

IIMO the stock motor is a beast. It's crazy powerful and has plenty of power even on 2S; 3S is fun but not needed when you compare it to say a 3S Yeti which is simply 2S RR fast on 3S. It's a bit of a cogger though!

Unless you had an issue with the motor/ESC the Castle setup might have exactly the same mechanical issues. Definitely pull it apart and work out what's going on. I'd hate to burn out a $500 AUD of motor/ESC!

Good luck mate, it's a great truck!

[geauxktm,]

Originally Posted by CoolRunning

I put in a 444oz Savox and it runs perfectly with the stock ESC with a $5 plug in cap. It's a good BEC IMO.

IIMO the stock motor is a beast. It's crazy powerful and has plenty of power even on 2S; 3S is fun but not needed when you compare it to say a 3S Yeti which is simply 2S RR fast on 3S. It's a bit of a cogger though!

Unless you had an issue with the motor/ESC the Castle setup might have exactly the same mechanical issues. Definitely pull it apart and work out what's going on. I'd hate to burn out a $500 AUD of motor/ESC!

Good luck mate, it's a great truck!

Okay so I'm finally getting back on this rock rey and the motor & esc are staying stock for now. My main concern/question is.. .. .. With the high torque 440-450oz servo I should go ahead and throw a bec on there correct?

My other upgrades/not stock parts are locked center dif, rear Currie, thicker fluid up front, went from 12 to 10 teeth, incision upper links, and six or seven combinations of good tires on good beadlocks all run depending on the conditions. I believe that's all I have done to it.

While it's torn down are there any recommendations as far as upgrades to add or anything to do while I'm in there? I'm not too worried about it because it was very fun stock but if there's anything that helps it on the low end slow stuff or anything that will allow it to go slow I'm interested. I've been bombing and scaling way too much lately and very out of the loop when it comes to the RR. Watching videos the other night has me extremely pumped up about getting this thing going. I planned to make it a better crawler but forget that for now and let's run it how she is intended and go from there.

Besides it acting like it had a weak battery or had drained the battery after 10 or so minutes of running I loved it in stock form. A couple months ago I saw something about the low voltage setting maybe being the cause of this anyone know?

i forgot that I put the 10 tooth on there. Is there any reason I should switch back to the stock 12?

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[CoolRunning]

I just put that $5 Savox cap in the RX and ran the 444oz servo at 6v. Seems good like that with not a single brown out.

Check the voltage cut out because at about 3.78-3.80v mines goes straight into go slow mode. It's quite aggressive so if you have an old lipo that sags badly, it's going to do that much faster and more often. I've left mine like this as I like to keep my discharges pretty high for longevity of the lipos. I have plenty of lipos so I'm never needing more (I think I have 4 5000 2S packs I use solely for the RR).

Make sure you test that the diff is spinning freely as is the front end assembly (pull the driveshaft and centre dogbone as needed). If everything spins freely and there is no binding, bad bearings etc, you're probably good to go.

Test it with a good fresh lipo if possible. Do you have an electronic charger that tells you the batteries IR?

[geauxktm,]

Originally Posted by CoolRunning

I just put that $5 Savox cap in the RX and ran the 444oz servo at 6v. Seems good like that with not a single brown out.

Check the voltage cut out because at about 3.78-3.80v mines goes straight into go slow mode. It's quite aggressive so if you have an old lipo that sags badly, it's going to do that much faster and more often. I've left mine like this as I like to keep my discharges pretty high for longevity of the lipos. I have plenty of lipos so I'm never needing more (I think I have 4 5000 2S packs I use solely for the RR).

Make sure you test that the diff is spinning freely as is the front end assembly (pull the driveshaft and centre dogbone as needed). If everything spins freely and there is no binding, bad bearings etc, you're probably good to go.

Test it with a good fresh lipo if possible. Do you have an electronic charger that tells you the batteries IR?

Hmmm, I guess I don't because I'm not sure what IR is and I can't think of any acronyms that make sense or wouldn't make me look like an idiot if I guess. I'm willing to bet I do have what you are talking about though. Actually got off work today and going this with it right now. Thanks for responding because your responses will be super helpful and hopefully I'll be driving this thing this afternoon

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[makya]

put the 12t pinion back on it, and make sure the mesh is correct. while you have the motor out, do like the others have said and make sure it rolls freely. If it doesn't, you have something bound up in the axles or transmission, or a bad bearing. if it rolls freely than it's either the motor or the gear mesh was way too tight when you changed pinions.

[CoolRunning]

Sorry IR is Internal Resistance; it's the ability of the battery to supply current. When the IR goes up, it shows there is resistance in the cells which generate heat and stop it easily providing the appropriate current. Basically the battery gets hotter, swells, sags and drops voltage quickly. Usually a single cell tanks and that is the cell that will fail and catch fire.

I had a cell fail in a fancy 60C 5000 6S pack in a heli during a flight...by the time I got it landed it was so hot that the lipo flew out of the packaging as it burnt my hand and sat naked on the grass blowing up. I had the outer casing in my palm. A mate wasn't so lucky and burned down $1300 worth of helicopter when his went. They only had about 50 cycles each so lipos can go quickly. The best clue is IR but if you're charger isn't reasonable you won't know.

I guess the thing to consider about a charger is that it keeps your house (and family) safe as you'll know if the lipo is getting problematic and you can dump it...plus it stops your model burning down or frustrating performance related issues too.

[willyg1981]

Iv gone from reasonably stock fast to not that fast , but lots of torque , would this be normal Iv installed the mmx and 1515 sensored and been powering it with the 5000 mah 2s 7.4v 45c ,4000 2s 45c and also a 4250mah 3s 11.1 v 35c but getting over an hour of aggressive crawl time out of just the 4000 battery, this all with very little heat only gets warm if that ,although I haven't had chance to use the others at all as I don't get much "me" time lol

I have noticed the rig doesn't roll freely with motor attached but I'm guessing thats the size of the motor being larger motor than the previous one which was a little bit easier to roll with motor in place .

I will remove the motor and check how it rolls later tonight , the transmission isn't the smoothest due to its crude design I think , I might be wrong what's does everyone else think I'd like to see some helical gears released that would make a much quieter transmission wouldn't it ?


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[geauxktm,]

Originally Posted by CoolRunning

Sorry IR is Internal Resistance; it's the ability of the battery to supply current. When the IR goes up, it shows there is resistance in the cells which generate heat and stop it easily providing the appropriate current. Basically the battery gets hotter, swells, sags and drops voltage quickly. Usually a single cell tanks and that is the cell that will fail and catch fire.

I had a cell fail in a fancy 60C 5000 6S pack in a heli during a flight...by the time I got it landed it was so hot that the lipo flew out of the packaging as it burnt my hand and sat naked on the grass blowing up. I had the outer casing in my palm. A mate wasn't so lucky and burned down $1300 worth of helicopter when his went. They only had about 50 cycles each so lipos can go quickly. The best clue is IR but if you're charger isn't reasonable you won't know.

I guess the thing to consider about a charger is that it keeps your house (and family) safe as you'll know if the lipo is getting problematic and you can dump it...plus it stops your model burning down or frustrating performance related issues too.

Putting a bec on fixed the power/speed loss so it had to be the servo robbing power . I couldn't tell much of a difference with the gear change from 12t to 10t but i definitely know I can't stand how it hates going slow and how the stock power/electronics aren't useful for anywhere I want to drive and this is frustrating because I can see it's a capable truck.

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[Jay-Em]

N.m. Wrong thread