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Old 12-23-2018, 05:24 PM   #1
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Default Thloftusí Rock Rey Basher

I was one of the lucky few to get a Rock Rey kit after they were randomly discontinued. Iíve been wanting an IFS / solid rear axle kit for a while and the options are dwindling, maybe to zero now that the Yeti is only offered as a RTR also? I thought about converting my Bomber to IFS, but Iím happy with the current setup, getting a second Bomber seemed spendy, and itís fun to try something new. Iíve read a lot of good things about durability / performance for the Rock Rey; my only regret is that I didnít hit go a few days earlier when the kits were cheaper! Should have known it was too good a deal to last.

Iím planning to set it up for bashing and hoping to get the kids to build it with me. We had fun building the SCX10 II kit together, just had to be patient with how much progress we made at any given time. I donít have electronics yet, so weíre not in a huge hurry. Iím looking for speeds beyond their skill level, though, so it will likely be my rig for a while; trying to avoid ankle-bashed trips to the ER or full up RC carnage, Lol!

Like most kits, it came in a box. Less fancy than Axial boxes, which hopefully means a better ratio for box cost versus kit cost. But then (here comes the guilty confession), I do mount Axial boxes like trophies in my workshop, Lol! Axial is definitely at the top for box fanciness, more so than even the RC4WD box Iíve also mounted like a trophy.




The inside walls of the box are also less fancy. Plain cardboard, sooo deflating!




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Old 12-23-2018, 05:27 PM   #2
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I have a few upgrades so far: SSD third member, Hot Racing steering bellcrank, and qty 2 of Traxxas TRA2523 2.5x10 mm hex screws for the diffs.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/ssd-rc-...d00177/p635654
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-rac...rr4806/p665412
https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...ra2523/p140667



A few more upgrades are on the way from Boom Racing: aluminum rear upper and lower link mounts and front upper link mount
https://www.asiatees.com/display?Tea...d=143735&pid=1
https://www.asiatees.com/display?Tea...d=142688&pid=1

The Boom Racing parts are a good deal to start; the rear link mounts were 50% off when I ordered them. Hard to pass up for ~ $10!

Iím sticking with the stock tires for now, but switching in closed cell foams given my desire for bashing / occasional trail running. Whatís not to like about oversized tires on a rock racer? Plus the compound is decent and Iíll need to invest in electronics before thinking about more subtle things like aftermarket tires. I contacted Crawler Innovations to ask for their recommendations and now have Deuceís Wild foams on order: CWR-3002 for the front, CWR-3302 for the rear, and CWR-3015 for both (one disc for the outside of each tire)
https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/cwr-3002.htm
https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/cwr-3302.htm
https://www.amainhobbies.com/crawler...r-3015/p861019

The front and rear foams are both tall versions. Fantastic customer service from Crawler Innovations, with a same-day reply to my questions! Iíve never tried the heavy-weight foams that are coming for the rear. Interested to see how they compare and whether Iím able to stuff them in the tires, !

I also picked up a CowRC parts tray / screw catcher. Iím probably the last person in the RC world to realize theyíre a good idea for building kits - Iím always working at the cutting edge, Lol! It came with all of the foam for the pockets, which is fun. I plan to use these for battery spacers on my TF2 or other random places that could benefit from high quality foam.


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Old 12-24-2018, 04:00 PM   #3
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Iím planning to go with a blue and black paint theme for the body and other parts (aside from the cage, which is gray). Not sure yet if Iíll use the stock body or make some simple panels - Iím leaning toward the panels at this point. Iíd like to try aluminum, but Iíve never made any and so may start with some Lexan sheet I bought on the internet.

Iím not a fan of glue-on tires and donít like the idea of having to bake them off later (plus wife tends to flip out when I talk about baking RC tires in a toaster oven or elsewhere, !). I have a few on-hand options for beadlocks from earlier builds. Iím not sure which one to use, so I mounted all three on the Creepy Crawler tires.

The first option is SSD steelies that I painted black; I also replaced the gold-colored scale hardware with silver.


Second option is blue anodized VP methods with silver rings


Third option is the same VP methods, but with black rings


Iím partial to the methods with black rings, but weíll see how it looks when the truck is together. For reference, hereís a Creepy Crawler (on the left) next to a stock tire for the RR10 Bomber. The Losi tires are huge!


The SSD wheels will mount up without any changes. My methods, however, have 725 SLW hubs. Sticking with these requires non-flanged nuts (for example, Vanquish VPS08335) and a thin-walled, 8 mm nut driver that fits inside the recess on the hub where the nuts are seated. The other option is to buy a set of 225 SLWs (no recess), but itís hard to get excited about another $35 when the wheels are already complete. Vanquish used to sell a thin-walled driver, but itís discontinued (maybe a theme for this build, !), so I bought a $3 Dynamite nut driver and am going to try grinding it down myself. Will be fun to see how that goes, Lol, especially since I donít have the right tools!


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Old 12-25-2018, 09:34 AM   #4
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We got a start on the kit yesterday. The first few steps are building the front diff. I was planning to do the Traxxas screw mod, but my cheap drills couldnít touch the hardened metal for the gears. So after a few embarrassing moments with my kids ďare you sure the drill is rotating the right way, Daddy?Ē I decided to move on with the Losi screws. You know, meant to do that, Lol!. Bonus is upgrades are easier to justify when I actually break parts and the Exotek diff cup is looking pretty nice.

I havenít built a spider diff before, just locked diffs front and rear in all of my kits so far. Looks cool, plus we all learned about how open diffs improve cornering. The parts went together well and locked nicely into the cup.


After slathering with CowRC Udder Butter


And the complete assembly with the ring gear


The stock screws that attach the ring gear to the cup have phillips heads; this type of head should be banned from RC altogether, so easy to gut the cross / keyway. Hopefully I can back them out without stripping in the future if necessary. The gears turned smoothly with the fasteners seated all the way. Nice fit and finish overall.

Next step was the front gearbox housing. Iíd like to get the SSD HD housing, but donít have it yet - hereís hoping for Santa! - so weíre starting with the stock plastic housing. Hereís how it looks with the gears installed. The plastic is nice and everything fit as expected.


And with the butter slathered on


Tight fit between the two halves of the case and everything spun freely once it was together. Fun kit so far!



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Old 12-27-2018, 10:56 AM   #5
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I tried to reclaim my honor by making another stab at using the Traxxas screws for the diff cup. The best my local hardware store could offer for drill bits was Cobalt. This was just as bad at drilling out the ring gear holes - canít even tell I tried to drill them at all. What kind of bits have worked for drilling out the gears? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Iím afraid that my planned brushless power will blow out the Losi screws right away.

Edit: never mind, just needed better leverage. I really should get a bench top vice.

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Old 12-27-2018, 11:28 AM   #6
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I tried to reclaim my honor by making another stab at using the Traxxas screws for the diff cup. The best my local hardware store could offer for drill bits was Cobalt. This was just as bad at drilling out the ring gear holes - can’t even tell I tried to drill them at all. What kind of bits have worked for drilling out the gears? Any help will be greatly appreciated. I’m afraid that my planned brushless power will blow out the Losi screws right away.
I didn't have much trouble drilling the front and rear ring gears even with my cheap drill bits. I used a 3/32" drill bit and then just rounded it out enough to get the 2.5mm screw to fit through. The center diff gear is a lot thicker and that was impossible for me to drill out. I, like you, even got hardened bits from the local hardware store and I still didn't have success. I think you'd need a drill press and a carbide bit and some good cutting lube.
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Old 12-27-2018, 01:33 PM   #7
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I used a very small grinding stone that came with my Dremel Tool to make the ring gear holes a little larger. I just went a little at a time and keep testing the screw fit so I didn't oval the holes too badly.
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Old 12-27-2018, 01:52 PM   #8
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I didn't have much trouble drilling the front and rear ring gears even with my cheap drill bits. I used a 3/32" drill bit and then just rounded it out enough to get the 2.5mm screw to fit through. The center diff gear is a lot thicker and that was impossible for me to drill out. I, like you, even got hardened bits from the local hardware store and I still didn't have success. I think you'd need a drill press and a carbide bit and some good cutting lube.

I tried again and was able to get through the rear gear by using some pliers and our backyard patio table for leverage (the table is metal with holes so you can drill through it without getting in trouble with the wife). Just needed slightly more pressure, I guess. I really need to get a vice. Iím hoping the same setup can work for the front. Itís a good point about a drill press and cutting fluid. Iíd love to have both!


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Old 12-27-2018, 01:53 PM   #9
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I used a very small grinding stone that came with my Dremel Tool to make the ring gear holes a little larger. I just went a little at a time and keep testing the screw fit so I didn't oval the holes too badly.

Thank you, Iíll give this a try .. may have a grinding stone for my Dremel!


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Old 12-27-2018, 01:56 PM   #10
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I used a very small grinding stone that came with my Dremel Tool to make the ring gear holes a little larger. I just went a little at a time and keep testing the screw fit so I didn't oval the holes too badly.
I'm surprised that worked. Sanding stone is softer than drill bits. My Dremel stone looked like it was doing something until I blew off the gear and realized the only residue was from the sanding cone. I also didn't have a cone thin enough for the screws so I didn't go at it too long. Maybe this will work for you, Thloftus.
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Old 12-28-2018, 09:27 AM   #11
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The next steps for us were the IFS and the rear axle. The rotors / calipers are a nice detail. I wanted the holes in the rotors to be more visible on the outward face, so I drilled them out with a 1/32Ē bit that roughly marched the (better defined) hole on the inside face. Hereís how they looked before


And hereís after


The plastic is soft, which makes it hard to get clean holes. I probably wonít be able to see them behind the wheels, but Iím sure it was worth the 40 min trip to the hardware store and subsequent 30 min of drilling under a magnifier, Lol! Have a nice set of miniature drills for my Dremel now and the they were only $10 so canít go wrong!

I was smarter for this build and picked up a Loctite stick. So much easier to use than the liquid, which I inevitability dispensed badly (either nothing or dumped everywhere), causing unfortunate Ďparent revealsí with the language, gestures, and so on. I definitely recommend this stuff and one stick will likely last a lifetime


The front went together well. Iím impressed overall with this Losi kit: plastic is nice, parts fit perfectly, steel hollow balls, universals for the axles, clean design. Wish Iíd started my RC life with a kit like this!


I picked up a 3/32 Cobalt drill bit and was able to ream out the holes for the rear ring gear. Itís important to apply a fair amount of pressure - more reason to get a vice and avoid those vacations at the hospital! No worries, I made sure the kids werenít watching their Father with the pliers and hand drill in the backyard. We still need to go back and re-do the front ring gear. But as you might guess, the kids are not super excited about re-doís versus plunging ahead, !


The reamed out holes are a little undersized at 2.4 mm versus 2.5 mm for the Traxxas screws, but this worked out fine. The next option for drills was 2.8 mm which I figured was too large.

Nice design for the locker; looks solid, hoping it can take the abuse!


All together with the Traxxas screws in place


Rear axle with the driveshafts installed. Itís an awesome design, especially the outer bearing carriers, large od driveshafts and engagement with the locker ... high hopes for abuse survival!


Next was the SSD third member. Fantastic
machining, large bearings, beautiful!



Installed on the axle. The fit was absolutely perfect with exceptionally smooth axle rotation afterward. Almost canít hear the gears when theyíre turning!


With the aluminum upper link installed. This part is included with the kit: nice machining and again a perfect fit. Where have you been all my life, Losi kits, Lol!




And with the trailing arms and upper links installed. No side-to-side flex for the trailing arms even when I pushed hard. Looking forward to seeing how they survive!





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Old 12-28-2018, 05:46 PM   #12
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I didn't have much trouble drilling the front and rear ring gears even with my cheap drill bits. I used a 3/32" drill bit and then just rounded it out enough to get the 2.5mm screw to fit through. The center diff gear is a lot thicker and that was impossible for me to drill out. I, like you, even got hardened bits from the local hardware store and I still didn't have success. I think you'd need a drill press and a carbide bit and some good cutting lube.

I broke my Cobalt bit today trying to drill through the ring gear for the center diff; too much downward pressure and it snapped in the middle. I tried a titanium bit next. Same cost as the Cobalt (few dollars) and it drilled through the center ring fairly quickly. I meant to use some cutting fluid, but forgot in the frigid temps on our deck. Anyway, titanium works with a hand drill (and dry), so if you have a more advanced setup it should be easy.


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Old 12-28-2018, 05:49 PM   #13
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I broke my Cobalt bit today trying to drill through the ring gear for the center diff; too much downward pressure and it snapped in the middle. I tried a titanium bit next. Same cost as the Cobalt (few dollars) and it drilled through the center ring fairly quickly. I meant to use some cutting fluid, but forgot in the frigid temps on our deck. Anyway, titanium works with a hand drill (and dry), so if you have more advanced setup it should be easy.

My center gear is tucked away nicely inside the assembled transmission. LOL. But that's good to know for the future.

I gotta try one of those Loctite sticks. I got some dry stuff around here somewhere but it doesn't look like that.
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Old 12-28-2018, 09:22 PM   #14
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My center gear is tucked away nicely inside the assembled transmission. LOL. But that's good to know for the future.
No worries, I have mixed feelings about taking my front diff apart to retrofit it for the Traxxas screws; although drilling out the ring gears is starting to feel like a quest for me and weíre so close now, Lol!

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I gotta try one of those Loctite sticks. I got some dry stuff around here somewhere but it doesn't look like that.
Itís definitely more user friendly. Donít think Iíll be looking back again! Plus each screw needs so little that it should last forever.



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Old 12-29-2018, 11:42 AM   #15
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Next steps are the center diff and transmission. Hereís the drilled out ring gear. Victory is mine, Lol!


And the spider gears for the center diff. Looks just like the front diff, but still cool anyway


Assembled diff with the Traxxas screws. Super smooth rotation with the fasteners tightened all the way. Strange for me, Iím used to a lot more fiddling with kits


Assembled transmission. The large, hardened gears are awesome; canít wait to see how it drives!


And with the motor plate installed.


I donít have an ESC or motor yet. Any feedback or experience with options will be greatly appreciated! Iím looking to run a brushless setup, 3S, and a motor in the 2700 - 3500 kV range. Mostly bashing. Iíd prefer sensored, but sensorless is probably ok. I donít need to drive it submerged, but would like to use it in the snow, puddles, and possibly some mud. Iím hoping to keep to a self-imposed budget thatís ill-defined, but basically means sticking to features that will get the job done without extra bobbles I wonít actually use.

For the ESC, Iíve been looking at the Hobbywing Xerun SCT Pro; nice performance/cost combo, Iíve read good things about using it in a RR, and I can program it with the card I already have for the Hobbywing 1080 ESC in my TF2.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...020262/p279090

Itís not waterproof, but that may be ok given where the ESC sits in the car and my intended use?

The HW Xerun XR8 SCT ESC also has great specs (higher current rating, better tuning, ...). This one requires the HW LCD programming box, which boosts the cost into the same range as a Mamba Monster X, but without waterproofing or other features like the aux wire or throttle curves. Could be worth trying just to branch out?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...113301/p540793
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...000014/p279128

The Mamba Monster X and Mamba X are also favorites that Iíve used on other builds. Theyíre on the high end of my budget. Castle only seems to pair the Mamba X with motors at or below 2200 kV for 1/8 and 3S? The Sidewinder 4 / motor combos look great, but have a stated weight limit of 6.5 lbs on 2S (I believe this is the weight for the kit without electronics or a battery) and words about ďvery conservative gearingĒ when used on 3S.


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Old 12-29-2018, 03:33 PM   #16
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Very nice build , I bought the rtr and currently rebuilding it to my liking I installed a hobby star pro4 2500kv motor from RCJuice and a hobbywing xerun sct pro esc runs very smooth.
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Old 12-29-2018, 04:10 PM   #17
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Very nice build , I bought the rtr and currently rebuilding it to my liking I installed a hobby star pro4 2500kv motor from RCJuice and a hobbywing xerun sct pro esc runs very smooth.

Good to hear, thank you!


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Old 12-31-2018, 09:46 PM   #18
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Some more progress on the build today; next up was bag D and some of our aluminum upgrades. These steps are focused these steps are mostly focused on attaching the rear part of the chassis, the battery compartment, and the transmission to the skid plate. Not much to show for the intermediate steps (or maybe I just forgot to take pictures). Hereís the Boom Racing upper and lower rear link mounts. Nice packaging with the link mounts and included fasteners all sealed in separate plastic bags.


And the unpackaged lower mounts that are installed in this part of the build. Nice finish and they fit perfectly in the truck. Not the most important upgrade, but theyíre hard to pass up anyway.


The latching compartment for the battery is nice - satisfying snap between the two positions and the latch is metal. The spacer inside the battery compartment narrows the space such that my 3S batters, which fit the small battery compartments in a Bomber, are too wide by about 1 mm. The spacer is LOS231006 at the top of step D4



It doesnít seem to serve a structural purpose, so I may just remove it; lame solution, but I donít see how to adjust it otherwise. Am I missing something?

Hereís the chassis as we left it at the end of today. Next step is the servo mount. The aluminum version should be here by tomorrow, along with the several inches of snow that accumulated today - bright future for this kit once itís together!





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Old 01-01-2019, 09:25 AM   #19
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Very nice build , I bought the rtr and currently rebuilding it to my liking I installed a hobby star pro4 2500kv motor from RCJuice and a hobbywing xerun sct pro esc runs very smooth.
In my Yeti I used a Mamba X with a 3000kv Hobbystar Pro4 and I really like that combination. It performs beautifully and didn't cost too much.
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:00 PM   #20
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In my Yeti I used a Mamba X with a 3000kv Hobbystar Pro4 and I really like that combination. It performs beautifully and didn't cost too much.

Nice, thank you!


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