New (to me) Rock Rey

[OpisOpus]

Originally Posted by Legacy23

Quick question guys.... I know it's a dumb one but how much shock oil do I put in these shocks? I don't want to over fill em.

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Was trying to look for the one I watched before as a refresher but couldn’t find it, but there’s a ton of them. Take springs off, remove cap, Fill to top with oil, compress it several times to get rid of air, keep compressed, top off with oil, put cap on(oil will leak out), check compression by compressing all the way and make sure there’s a rebound of a few centimeters or so, Reattach spring and should be good to go. That’s the short of how I’ve always done it.


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[Legacy23]

Originally Posted by OpisOpus

Was trying to look for the one I watched before as a refresher but couldn’t find it, but there’s a ton of them. Take springs off, remove cap, Fill to top with oil, compress it several times to get rid of air, keep compressed, top off with oil, put cap on(oil will leak out), check compression by compressing all the way and make sure there’s a rebound of a few centimeters or so, Reattach spring and should be good to go. That’s the short of how I’ve always done it.


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Thanks a lot. I found a video https://youtu.be/NdyiPcs4Hx8 there it is.

I'll take your advice and see how it goes.

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[Legacy23]

Alright, so I am happy to report that I've the shocks installed and they are performing great. I've adjusted the trim and reverse seems to be working perfectly now. I've taken it out for a quick romp around and enjoyed it a lot. It's finally time to have some fun with this thing while I decide what I want to purchase to personalize it.

Thanks for everything guys!

[OpisOpus]

Originally Posted by Legacy23

Yes, please let me know how it works when your truck is back together again.

Alright so I told you I’d update you on the Exotek housings for the differentials. I bought 3 of them (front, center and rear) and installed them last night. You have to mod the stock gear though to accommodate the 2.5mm screws. Used a Dremel carbide cutting bit to ream the holes and it worked fine. If you do get this and try using drill bits then you will need titanium bits probable. The gears are hardened metal and although I got it to work with the Dremel they chewed the shit out of the bit. Locked my center, put 1,000,000 weight oil in the front and put all the housings on. Here’s pics of the center housing assembled, rear housing, and the oil I used for the front. If you have any questions let me know. I also posted a build thread for my truck if you wanted to check it out. Hope yours is still going strong.


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[willyg1981]

Originally Posted by OpisOpus

Alright so I told you I’d update you on the Exotek housings for the differentials. I bought 3 of them (front, center and rear) and installed them last night. You have to mod the stock gear though to accommodate the 2.5mm screws. Used a Dremel carbide cutting bit to ream the holes and it worked fine. If you do get this and try using drill bits then you will need titanium bits probable. The gears are hardened metal and although I got it to work with the Dremel they chewed the shit out of the bit. Locked my center, put 1,000,000 weight oil in the front and put all the housings on. Here’s pics of the center housing assembled, rear housing, and the oil I used for the front. If you have any questions let me know. I also posted a build thread for my truck if you wanted to check it out. Hope yours is still going strong.


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[willyg1981]

Looks good man sorry forgot to mention the enlarging of holes !!!
Most important bit is making sure the diffs all go the same way lol Iv been there working late after a few beers and realised after I’d completely rebuilt it , crying emoji crying emoji crying emoji lol



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[Legacy23]

Originally Posted by OpisOpus

Alright so I told you I’d update you on the Exotek housings for the differentials. I bought 3 of them (front, center and rear) and installed them last night. You have to mod the stock gear though to accommodate the 2.5mm screws. Used a Dremel carbide cutting bit to ream the holes and it worked fine. If you do get this and try using drill bits then you will need titanium bits probable. The gears are hardened metal and although I got it to work with the Dremel they chewed the shit out of the bit. Locked my center, put 1,000,000 weight oil in the front and put all the housings on. Here’s pics of the center housing assembled, rear housing, and the oil I used for the front. If you have any questions let me know. I also posted a build thread for my truck if you wanted to check it out. Hope yours is still going strong.


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Thanks a lot for the update... I'll look into it.

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[OpisOpus]

Originally Posted by willyg1981

Looks good man sorry forgot to mention the enlarging of holes !!!
Most important bit is making sure the diffs all go the same way lol Iv been there working late after a few beers and realised after I’d completely rebuilt it , crying emoji crying emoji crying emoji lol



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Man I had a hell of a time last night. Had to take apart the rear diff 4 separate times after messing things up. Ruined a bearing for the SSD third member and reverted back to stock, and I couldn’t get the piece that attaches to the driveshaft off the front bulkhead so couldn’t replace that either with the SSD upgrade.


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[willyg1981]

I feel your pain buddy I stripped several screw pins before I realised the monkeys in the losi factory used red thread lock on all the metal connections , something that was never mentioned in the user manual
Probably the worst mistake I have done was killing my monster esc by simply putting the A,B,C wires in the wrong order of C2A,B was good lol and A2C which is a big no no so I discovered , slightly drunk and rushing does not mix .
I know my abc really good now lol

That stuck piece you talk about might be down the red thread lock Iv mentioned , this can be removed with a bit of heat , I normal flame lighter won’t do it needs to be a micro torch or wind proof lighter failing that if it’s rounded out then a torx bit slightly larger than the rounded hex hammered in and a good bit of heat and that should release !

Fun and games hey lol


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[OpisOpus]

Originally Posted by willyg1981

I feel your pain buddy I stripped several screw pins before I realised the monkeys in the losi factory used red thread lock on all the metal connections , something that was never mentioned in the user manual
Probably the worst mistake I have done was killing my monster esc by simply putting the A,B,C wires in the wrong order of C2A,B was good lol and A2C which is a big no no so I discovered , slightly drunk and rushing does not mix .
I know my abc really good now lol

That stuck piece you talk about might be down the red thread lock Iv mentioned , this can be removed with a bit of heat , I normal flame lighter won’t do it needs to be a micro torch or wind proof lighter failing that if it’s rounded out then a torx bit slightly larger than the rounded hex hammered in and a good bit of heat and that should release !

Fun and games hey lol


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I didn’t have a problem getting the pin out. It was getting the damn thing off lol. The thread lock they used must’ve seeped down in. Didn’t have much of an issue with any others. Tried a lighter and didn’t know that wasn’t hot enough.
I used blue thread lock thinking it was fine and tried dismantling the center diff today just to check on it and that shit is stuck on there good. Stripped the screw head on that lol.
Thanks for the all the info. May give it a shot when I’m feeling more ambitious haha.


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[OpisOpus]

Originally Posted by willyg1981

I feel your pain buddy I stripped several screw pins before I realised the monkeys in the losi factory used red thread lock on all the metal connections , something that was never mentioned in the user manual
Probably the worst mistake I have done was killing my monster esc by simply putting the A,B,C wires in the wrong order of C2A,B was good lol and A2C which is a big no no so I discovered , slightly drunk and rushing does not mix .
I know my abc really good now lol

That stuck piece you talk about might be down the red thread lock Iv mentioned , this can be removed with a bit of heat , I normal flame lighter won’t do it needs to be a micro torch or wind proof lighter failing that if it’s rounded out then a torx bit slightly larger than the rounded hex hammered in and a good bit of heat and that should release !

Fun and games hey lol


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Oh and now you got me worried about my upcoming castle motor and esc mod haha. I’ve never put a new setup in an rc so not experienced. Especially not with brushless or sensored setups


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[willyg1981]

All you need is a tiny bit to stop the screw undoing I found just a ball of blue on the tip of the nozzle and touch one side of the screw on it is perfect ,
Iv definitely found this same problem as it is a tight fit which is a good thing try a small thin flat screw driver and twist the handle don’t try using like a pry bar but twist as if your undoing a screw , then switch to opposite side , if you’ve got 2 even better still one on each side and twist both at the same time .
What system have you gone for ?
Remember you never succeed until you’ve failed at least once lol




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[OpisOpus]

Originally Posted by willyg1981

All you need is a tiny bit to stop the screw undoing I found just a ball of blue on the tip of the nozzle and touch one side of the screw on it is perfect ,
Iv definitely found this same problem as it is a tight fit which is a good thing try a small thin flat screw driver and twist the handle don’t try using like a pry bar but twist as if your undoing a screw , then switch to opposite side , if you’ve got 2 even better still one on each side and twist both at the same time .
What system have you gone for ?
Remember you never succeed until you’ve failed at least once lol




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I might be crazy bc I’m inexperienced, but I chose the mamba monster x esc and the 1515 2200kv motor. There’s a lot of added weight with the upgrades and other motors are only rated for 9lbs. The stock RR without battery is like 6.5. I wanted lower kv for the torque since I’ll be trying to crawling, but I haven’t heard of anyone using that motor in a RR yet so I’m a little worried


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[willyg1981]

Originally Posted by OpisOpus

I might be crazy bc I’m inexperienced, but I chose the mamba monster x esc and the 1515 2200kv motor. There’s a lot of added weight with the upgrades and other motors are only rated for 9lbs. The stock RR without battery is like 6.5. I wanted lower kv for the torque since I’ll be trying to crawling, but I haven’t heard of anyone using that motor in a RR yet so I’m a little worried


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Don’t be worried buddy you’ve made a good choice it’s a beast , once you’ve tuned it you can actually do frog hops by reversing and flat out forward preloading the rear shocks perfect for some extreme rock bouncing lol



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[willyg1981]

https://youtu.be/C5USqRlmLmM


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[OpisOpus]

Originally Posted by willyg1981

https://youtu.be/C5USqRlmLmM


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Is this your truck? That thing runs nice. When you say tune it what do you mean exactly and what are some suggestions? Also a question about castle esc’s...can you program the functions like low voltage cut off and drag brake and stuff straight from the esc or do you have to have a capable transmitter to do that programming?


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[willyg1981]

Yep it sure is monster X 1515 2200kv 17T pinion
It took a while to get there but it’s definitely worth the tinkering
In the castle combo box there will be a coupon for a castle field link for a few £ , get that and then all of the tuning is done using that , you can use it on the trail hence the name field link and also you can hook it up to the laptop via the field link and a castle link cable from
The field link to laptop which will be supplied in the field link packaging , it’s very easy to use , I’m am by no means a computer wiz kid and I managed it ,
every option on the castle link program gives you a little “?” In the corner to explain what each feature or setting is used for once you’ve read the explanation it becomes very easy to understand

There’s also a blue tooth app thing now available for apple users if you have an iPhone which saves you having to keep pulling the esc cable out the receiver to hook up the field link which is quite handy but I haven’t got that gadget .

This is how you turn the internal bec up aswell for the servo I was talking about the other day



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[OpisOpus]

Originally Posted by willyg1981

Yep it sure is monster X 1515 2200kv 17T pinion
It took a while to get there but it’s definitely worth the tinkering
In the castle combo box there will be a coupon for a castle field link for a few £ , get that and then all of the tuning is done using that , you can use it on the trail hence the name field link and also you can hook it up to the laptop via the field link and a castle link cable from
The field link to laptop which will be supplied in the field link packaging , it’s very easy to use , I’m am by no means a computer wiz kid and I managed it ,
every option on the castle link program gives you a little “?” In the corner to explain what each feature or setting is used for once you’ve read the explanation it becomes very easy to understand

There’s also a blue tooth app thing now available for apple users if you have an iPhone which saves you having to keep pulling the esc cable out the receiver to hook up the field link which is quite handy but I haven’t got that gadget .

This is how you turn the internal bec up aswell for the servo I was talking about the other day



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Nice. Hopefully I get mine soon. It has been backordered on Amain. Supposed to arrive in stock yesterday, but now it still isn’t in stock. My Savox servo that I put in really made a difference, but didn’t need programmed at all. What’s the difference between the 17T pinion and stock on the RR. Also if you don’t mind me asking what is your shock setup like with oil and preload and stuff? Your RR was handling way better than mine. I have 35Front and 30 rear


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[willyg1981]

Of course not , the rears are the proline yeti xt’s which has 37.5 and the top spring is the stiffest spring available in the proline spring tuning set slightly preloaded the rear sway bar was tightened a bit aswell by releasing the small grub screw and moving the top end of the vertical link onwards towards the cab so about 5 mm sticks out through the vertical link ,
The front is the proline ultra reservoirs again with 37.5 but the main spring I’d exchanged for the stock rear springs so it was very powerful spring and worked well until I rolled down a steep bank and smashed them in half and you’ll be lucky to find any now as the last I heard they’d been discontinued as they were awesome and looked awesome too ,
again it had the stiffest small spring from the proline spring tuning pack on top
The difference in pinion is 7 extra teeth compared to the stock 10T ,
Because the 2200 has so much low end grunt you don’t need to worry about loss of torque by having a high tooth count on the pinion which can be an issue with slightly smaller motors as they spin too much and get stupid hot
On a 7.4 v 4000mah battery I’d get about 45-60mins crawling/light rock bouncing
Here it is flat out on a nice little outing round a local trail
https://youtu.be/rzjHNv8hJ0M


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[willyg1981]

The servo will be set at 6.4v I think it’ll say on the back of box but you can ramp it up to 7.5 as long as the rx will take it , it will say what output it can push through it on the rx casing in teeny tiny little letters and numbers , you might notice when you’ve been driving a while and trying to turn at full lock and it just stops this is what’s known as a “brown out” which when the servo is trying to draw a lot of power and there isn’t enough left in the battery for the motor and servo at that specific moment.


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