New (to me) Rock Rey

[Legacy23]

I just picked up a used Rock Rey. It seems like it's in pretty rough condition. (Pics coming soon) The first thing I would like to address are the shocks. The guy I bought it from "upgraded" them to some King shocks. I've put new oil in it but it seems like the springs are too soft because the truck sits too low. Can anyone point me in the direction of a place to get the stock suspension or something comparable? Lastly there's a grinding noise which sounds like it's coming from the center of the rig. Any help with that would be great.

Thanks guys!

Sent from my SM-T837T using Tapatalk

[willyg1981]

The diff screws have snapped by the sound of it and the king shocks are far too small scale for the rock Rey the RR is closer to a 1/8 scale than 1/10 get proline slash rears for the front and proline yeti xt’s for the rears ,
The stock diff screws are notorious for snapping just far too small they can be replaced with traxxas 2523 2.5mm replacing the 1.5 stock screws , if it’s not the diff screws then it’ll probably be most likely the front bulkhead which warps under acceleration and heavy breaking and the grinding your hearing is slippage between the ring gear and pinion gear as the bulkhead pushes apart , hope this helps
On a side note the mod1 transmission gears are quite clunky and noisy so just be aware and make sure it’s not just noisy gears before tearing into it or actually contact the seller and ask if he did the diff screw mod if he hasn’t it’s worth tearing it to bits anyway otherwise you need new diff cups when the stock diff screws snap !!!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Legacy23]

Originally Posted by willyg1981

The diff screws have snapped by the sound of it and the king shocks are far too small scale for the rock Rey the RR is closer to a 1/8 scale than 1/10 get proline slash rears for the front and proline yeti xt’s for the rears ,
The stock diff screws are notorious for snapping just far too small they can be replaced with traxxas 2523 2.5mm replacing the 1.5 stock screws , if it’s not the diff screws then it’ll probably be most likely the front bulkhead which warps under acceleration and heavy breaking and the grinding your hearing is slippage between the ring gear and pinion gear as the bulkhead pushes apart , hope this helps
On a side note the mod1 transmission gears are quite clunky and noisy so just be aware and make sure it’s not just noisy gears before tearing into it or actually contact the seller and ask if he did the diff screw mod if he hasn’t it’s worth tearing it to bits anyway otherwise you need new diff cups when the stock diff screws snap !!!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks a lot! I will look into these suggestions. Are there any other, more affordable, suspension options?

Sent from my SM-T837T using Tapatalk

[mass-hole]

I bought hot racing remote reservoir shocks the first time around. 110mm for the front and 120mm for the rear which matched the factory shocks. These shocks(well the springs really) turned out to be too light for the rey so i ended up splurging on the proline powerstrokes for the front and rear as well as a couple of their spring assortments for fine tuning.

I got the rear powerstroke xt’s the other day and got them in. They seem pretty solid and dont need a whole lot of preload even on the lighter springs. They allow more travel than the links on the rear suspension will allow.

The fronts i am a little concerned. The powerstrokes are only 102mm while the stock shocks are 110. The stock shocks just allow the front suspension to reach its full natural droop so the powerstrokes wont.

Because of this ive decided to experiment with the hot racing shocks again. Im trying out running two long springs instead of the big and little like it comes.

You can see the springs are the same length. This gives it some more preload to help hold up the truck.

The other cool thing about the hot racing shock is that they have a LOT more travel than the stock shocks. Here is both compressed, stock on the left.

They give you an extra .5-.75” travel at the wheel i bet.

Anyways, i havent driven with this setup yet(powerstrokes rear, hot racing with double long springs front) but i am gunna give it a go. My goal is to make this a crawler so more worried about flexing and less about big hits.

[Legacy23]

Originally Posted by mass-hole

I bought hot racing remote reservoir shocks the first time around. 110mm for the front and 120mm for the rear which matched the factory shocks. These shocks(well the springs really) turned out to be too light for the rey so i ended up splurging on the proline powerstrokes for the front and rear as well as a couple of their spring assortments for fine tuning.

I got the rear powerstroke xt’s the other day and got them in. They seem pretty solid and dont need a whole lot of preload even on the lighter springs. They allow more travel than the links on the rear suspension will allow.

The fronts i am a little concerned. The powerstrokes are only 102mm while the stock shocks are 110. The stock shocks just allow the front suspension to reach its full natural droop so the powerstrokes wont.

Because of this ive decided to experiment with the hot racing shocks again. Im trying out running two long springs instead of the big and little like it comes.

You can see the springs are the same length. This gives it some more preload to help hold up the truck.

The other cool thing about the hot racing shock is that they have a LOT more travel than the stock shocks. Here is both compressed, stock on the left.

They give you an extra .5-.75” travel at the wheel i bet.

Anyways, i havent driven with this setup yet(powerstrokes rear, hot racing with double long springs front) but i am gunna give it a go. My goal is to make this a crawler so more worried about flexing and less about big hits.

Thanks a lot man. Giving me the shock lengths was just the information I was looking for. Please let me know how your setup runs, I'm very interested.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[OpisOpus]

Originally Posted by mass-hole

I bought hot racing remote reservoir shocks the first time around. 110mm for the front and 120mm for the rear which matched the factory shocks. These shocks(well the springs really) turned out to be too light for the rey so i ended up splurging on the proline powerstrokes for the front and rear as well as a couple of their spring assortments for fine tuning.

I got the rear powerstroke xt’s the other day and got them in. They seem pretty solid and dont need a whole lot of preload even on the lighter springs. They allow more travel than the links on the rear suspension will allow.

The fronts i am a little concerned. The powerstrokes are only 102mm while the stock shocks are 110. The stock shocks just allow the front suspension to reach its full natural droop so the powerstrokes wont.

Because of this ive decided to experiment with the hot racing shocks again. Im trying out running two long springs instead of the big and little like it comes.

You can see the springs are the same length. This gives it some more preload to help hold up the truck.

The other cool thing about the hot racing shock is that they have a LOT more travel than the stock shocks. Here is both compressed, stock on the left.

They give you an extra .5-.75” travel at the wheel i bet.

Anyways, i havent driven with this setup yet(powerstrokes rear, hot racing with double long springs front) but i am gunna give it a go. My goal is to make this a crawler so more worried about flexing and less about big hits.

I have the PL front and back, but I have it set to quite a bit of preload on the fronts. 35wt oil front and 30 back. I too was concerned by the size difference, but after several preload adjustments and experimenting they work well, and I have gotten the easy rolling issue mostly under control.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JatoTheRipper]

King Shocks from RC4WD are atrocious. King shocks from Axial are OK. If you want to spend the money you can't beat Proline shocks.

[Legacy23]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

King Shocks from RC4WD are atrocious. King shocks from Axial are OK. If you want to spend the money you can't beat Proline shocks.

Yes, I am learning that the shocks this rig came with are no good. I'm going to buy the Proline's and also experiment with some other brands as well to see what I like. Thanks for your input.

[Legacy23]

So after taking the truck apart I've found a couple of broken parts.....Just the front bumper and part of the cage in that same area. I'm ordering replacements tomorrow. I'm very happy to see that a lot of this stuff can be found on Amazon Prime.

Also, has anyone had any experience with this? I'm thinking of ordering it but not sure if it's worth it. I intend to use it for the center diff because I think mine is not working properly.

Thanks everyone!

[Legacy23]

After reading through some other threads on the forum. Can anyone tell me the main benefits of locking the center diff?

[OpisOpus]

Originally Posted by Legacy23

So after taking the truck apart I've found a couple of broken parts.....Just the front bumper and part of the cage in that same area. I'm ordering replacements tomorrow. I'm very happy to see that a lot of this stuff can be found on Amazon Prime.



Also, has anyone had any experience with this? I'm thinking of ordering it but not sure if it's worth it. I intend to use it for the center diff because I think mine is not working properly.



Thanks everyone!

I just ordered 2 of these bc I’m completely redoing my RR. Locking center diff and 1,000,000 in front with these Exotek replacements. If nobody else has experience I can let you know when I get my truck running again. Hoping it’ll be a in week at the The most


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[willyg1981]

The benefits of that specific exotek cup is that it already takes a 2.5 screw , massive benefit , the stock ones are only plastic and the cross pin designed axle that supports the spider gears move round a fair bit and over time Iv found the plastic cup deteriorates so the aluminium would definitely last longer , the HR cups are tapped to take a 1.8 screw all I used snapped ,
If you use a locker the cross pin grinding won’t be an issue ,
Locking the centre makes a huge difference for ability to crawl over stuff I wouldn’t lock the front though as that will reduce the turning circle massively and can snap cv joints
Diff putty is great for this use , gives enough resistance as if it was locked but still can slip when needed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Legacy23]

Originally Posted by willyg1981

The benefits of that specific exotek cup is that it already takes a 2.5 screw , massive benefit , the stock ones are only plastic and the cross pin designed axle that supports the spider gears move round a fair bit and over time Iv found the plastic cup deteriorates so the aluminium would definitely last longer , the HR cups are tapped to take a 1.8 screw all I used snapped ,
If you use a locker the cross pin grinding won’t be an issue ,
Locking the centre makes a huge difference for ability to crawl over stuff I wouldn’t lock the front though as that will reduce the turning circle massively and can snap cv joints
Diff putty is great for this use , gives enough resistance as if it was locked but still can slip when needed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks a lot for the info, I'm trying to learn as much as possible as I go. What about using diff putty for all the diffs? lol

[Legacy23]

Originally Posted by OpisOpus

I just ordered 2 of these bc I’m completely redoing my RR. Locking center diff and 1,000,000 in front with these Exotek replacements. If nobody else has experience I can let you know when I get my truck running again. Hoping it’ll be a in week at the The most


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, please let me know how it works when your truck is back together again.

[willyg1981]

Your very welcome and I’m happy to help where I can
I can’t see why it wouldn’t work the only issue is that the putty does become old and it looses its stiffness over time approx every couple of days heavy use I’d say about 4-6 months where as the locker I put in when I first got it is still perfect and absolutely no reason for it not to be really lol
The diff washers found at either end of the cup under the king gears have a tendency to bowl and deform these must be exchanged for the X-ray washers ,
The putty is almost identical to blue-tak Iv discovered just a different colour as the racers edge putty is white but almost identical otherwise if you wanted a cheap test get some
Blue-tak make tiny balls and push it in around the king gear then put in the lower section of spider gears then pack more small balls around those gears then the top section of spider gears then more small putty balls this will produce a very nicely packed diff


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Legacy23]

Originally Posted by willyg1981

Your very welcome and I’m happy to help where I can
I can’t see why it wouldn’t work the only issue is that the putty does become old and it looses its stiffness over time approx every couple of days heavy use I’d say about 4-6 months where as the locker I put in when I first got it is still perfect and absolutely no reason for it not to be really lol
The diff washers found at either end of the cup under the king gears have a tendency to bowl and deform these must be exchanged for the X-ray washers ,
The putty is almost identical to blue-tak Iv discovered just a different colour as the racers edge putty is white but almost identical otherwise if you wanted a cheap test get some
Blue-tak make tiny balls and push it in around the king gear then put in the lower section of spider gears then pack more small balls around those gears then the top section of spider gears then more small putty balls this will produce a very nicely packed diff


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! Do you have any links to the locker you used for the center diff? Also for the putty stuff? I'm new and haven't found out where the best place to order stuff is. I usually prefer Amazon.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[willyg1981]

This is the locker you need vtr332000 https://rover.ebay.co.uk/rover/0/0/9...3D113523066184
And amainhobbys is a good online shop


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[willyg1981]

https://www.amainhobbies.com/racers-...rce3007/p13268


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Legacy23]

Originally Posted by willyg1981

This is the locker you need vtr332000 https://rover.ebay.co.uk/rover/0/0/9...3D113523066184
And amainhobbys is a good online shop


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks a lot man!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[willyg1981]

Enjoy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk