front driveshafts?

[iridebikes247]

I've had the RR for awhile now and mainly run 2s but recently been messing around with 3s. My truck has a locked center diff and putty in the front (not locked the diff still works). Overall I'm happy with how the truck handles (stock foams are a bit too soft imo).

As I've become more comfortable I think I've been driving it harder, I've twisted two stock front sliders and 1 ebay-china driveshaft. Not exactly surprised. I'd say you're better off snapping the plastic sliders than the crappy china driveshafts tbh. I have no problem buying a bunch of plastic sliders but perhaps there is a more permanent solution (I'm not selling it lol).

Any other axle options out there? I have never had a problem on 2s so I know backing down the voltage is an option. This isn't a popular truck so I wouldn't be surprised if I don't have a lot of options but hey figured I'd ask. Thanks guys.

[mass-hole]

Hot Racing has these:

https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=LRR288F06;c=1082

But they are sold out atm. I domt have personal experience with them, but i did buy their rear CVD after i had to cut off the stock shaft due to being siezed to the transmission output. It was actually cheaper to buy the rear CVD than the stock plastic losi shaft.

https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=LRR37R06;c=1082

It havent run it much since i bought it after we had 3’ of snow on the ground.

[iridebikes247]

I was in the exact same situation with my RR lol. The rear center diff output had a frozen grub screw, I had to cut the shaft out in order to lock the center. Turns out Horizon is charging stupid money for the plastic/steel driveshafts so I went with the HR rear CVD. It has held up very well and I haven't been easy on it with 3s. Went with 3X Exotek diff cups all around since I sheared the heads off all 4 of the rear diff cup screws. Think I'm going to give Horizon a call about the frozen screws, I use MIP hex drivers and this is the first time I've stripped a screw with them.

I think the GPM axles I have are the same as the HR ones but I will look at them much more carefully. Thanks for the help.

[TheLetterJ]

I know it's too late for you guys, but high strength thread locker requires heat to release its bond, just hold the tip of your soldering iron to it for a minute before twisting on it and it should come right out.

I'm surprised MIP hasn't offered up an option for the front of the 'Rey, I bet if they received enough interest, they could put a set of front shafts together.

[mass-hole]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

I know it's too late for you guys, but high strength thread locker requires heat to release its bond, just hold the tip of your soldering iron to it for a minute before twisting on it and it should come right out.

I'm surprised MIP hasn't offered up an option for the front of the 'Rey, I bet if they received enough interest, they could put a set of front shafts together.

I dont remember my screw being stuck. For some reason the shafts seemed to be fused together.

[mass-hole]

One thing I was thinking was that you may wanna lock the front diff to prevent annihilating the shafts. Coming from my 1:1 experience with my Jeep Liberty, a lot guys were busting CV's offroading because they would get one wheel up in the air and it would start spinning. Then when it hit the ground it would shock load the driveline and blow up the joints. having the diff locked helped because the tire on the ground prevented the one in the air from freewheeling.

I know locking the diff isnt ideal but it might help.

[elRayRay]

Have you looked at the Baja Rey-style outdrives and front axles? Considering the higher-ratio ring and pinion used in the Baja Rey, I would think the steel dogbone end universal axles might be stronger than the sliders. Just throwing out an idea.

[elRayRay]

Originally Posted by mass-hole

I dont remember my screw being stuck. For some reason the shafts seemed to be fused together.

This^
After applying some heat to the pin screw, it came out with some coaxing. Getting the driveshaft hub off the outdrive was terribly difficult. After finally getting it off, by wedging a screwdriver into the tranny gears, another in the opposite output and giving some healthy torque on the female driveshaft end, I saw a ton of dried white threadlocker(?) on the contacting surfaces. I cleaned it off as best I could and reinstalled with copper anti-seize.

[iridebikes247]

I used a chisel tip for my soldering iron to loosen the screw...oh wait but this was after I grew impatient and twisted too hard...lol. Thanks for the tip and reminder.

Kinda curious about the Losi Baja Rey front axles....if the a-arms are the same length should work? Might have to give Horizon a call and ask if some subtle differences exist.

[elRayRay]

Originally Posted by iridebikes247

I used a chisel tip for my soldering iron to loosen the screw...oh wait but this was after I grew impatient and twisted too hard...lol. Thanks for the tip and reminder.

Kinda curious about the Losi Baja Rey front axles....if the a-arms are the same length should work? Might have to give Horizon a call and ask if some subtle differences exist.

Same A-arms on both rigs, I'm pretty sure. Ring and pinion gears are cross-compatible, same with diff cups and front bulkhead. Some Baja Rey outdrives should fit right on. The steering knuckles are different, and I'm not sure how, or if, that impacts stub axle bearing sizes.

[JDM74]

The A-arms are not the same between the baja and rock rays. They may be the same length but are not the same design.

[mass-hole]

Originally Posted by JDM74

The A-arms are not the same between the baja and rock rays. They may be the same length but are not the same design.

Right. The baja rey has a factory sway bar where as the rock rey does not. The rock rey does not have the provisions on the arm to make it work but it does have the hole through the diff housing.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/losi-ba...QaAotNEALw_wcB

For $54 i am not wiling to find out if they work.

[elRayRay]

I'm using the RPM arms that are cross-platform. They have a provision for the anti-roll bar, though you're not forced to use one.

Just a suggestion anyway.

[FastMatt]

Originally Posted by elRayRay

This^
After applying some heat to the pin screw, it came out with some coaxing. Getting the driveshaft hub off the outdrive was terribly difficult. After finally getting it off, by wedging a screwdriver into the tranny gears, another in the opposite output and giving some healthy torque on the female driveshaft end, I saw a ton of dried white threadlocker(?) on the contacting surfaces. I cleaned it off as best I could and reinstalled with copper anti-seize.

I had the same issue. Got the pin screws out finally, but not be able to separate the outdrives on all 3 diffs.
Completely destroyed the plastic rear third member because I had to heat it up. Even used methylene chloride. Eventually broke free. Twisting definitely helps.
I emailed Horizon to try to get them to cover some of the parts because of the abundant overuse of loctite, but they declined replacement unless I sent in the parts even though I sent in detailed pictures. Lame..