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Old 03-09-2009, 12:37 AM   #81
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[quote=5150bronco;1669253]I figured if it was closer the angle would be harder to make straight. I was actually thinking of cutting into the plate. Good idea. so I thought of keeping it further.
It all really depends on the servo horn your going to use. If it hangs down far enuf to make a fairly straight line to the operating rod or not. A longer link can make up some difference if the angle is not quite right.
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Old 03-09-2009, 10:50 AM   #82
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[QUOTE=gunnar;1669265]
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Originally Posted by 5150bronco View Post
I figured if it was closer the angle would be harder to make straight. I was actually thinking of cutting into the plate. Good idea. so I thought of keeping it further.
It all really depends on the servo horn your going to use. If it hangs down far enuf to make a fairly straight line to the operating rod or not. A longer link can make up some difference if the angle is not quite right.
cool. The longer the operating rod I would think would help in reducing angle.

I was going to use the horn with two ends that are 180 degree, the white one that comes with 225, and cut one end off. Any suggestions.

I was thinking of running it below the plate, but not sure. I will get a better angle if I move it back to original spot.

TESTING SERVO: I could test it by putting collar on dig, not tightening screw and see if I can pull it off dig without it binding to see if the angle is fine....

my ideas...., anybody, give some ideas too.
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Old 03-09-2009, 10:54 AM   #83
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I guess just test it out and see what gives you the straightest pull on the operating rod. You're almost there!
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Old 03-09-2009, 11:10 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5150bronco View Post
I figured if it was closer the angle would be harder to make straight. I was actually thinking of cutting into the plate. Good idea. so I thought of keeping it further. just brainstorming some ideas.



DNA is pretty smart, cause i see it defeats purpose, but dna made holes there. I would like it in the mount for sure.

So, you moved links outside chassis? And, you put link underneath plate on axle? Is that right?

Thanks Guys!

I am almost done.
No mine are mounted on the inside of the frame and on the bottom. heres a pic!
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Old 03-09-2009, 02:05 PM   #85
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Thanks Big! Pics work well for me.

Looks like your rear shock is on 5th hole?

Wonder if that matters?

So, I guess the diff here in this issue is the mounting of the links on the bottom of the plate on axle. that is where bowtie's is too.

Appreciate the ideas. I am going to change this I think so I can get better angle with the servo rod.

I am....almost there gunn.... Just bought a new clean body too.
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Old 03-09-2009, 02:50 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by 5150bronco View Post
Thanks Big! Pics work well for me.

Looks like your rear shock is on 5th hole?

Wonder if that matters?

So, I guess the diff here in this issue is the mounting of the links on the bottom of the plate on axle. that is where bowtie's is too.

Appreciate the ideas. I am going to change this I think so I can get better angle with the servo rod.

I am....almost there gunn.... Just bought a new clean body too.
yup and with them out one hole from the inners the straight parst of the uppers are parrallel. Oh and be sure your uppers are mounted so the longer side it mounted at the frame. That might also be part of the problem.
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Old 03-10-2009, 12:49 AM   #87
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yup and with them out one hole from the inners the straight parst of the uppers are parrallel. Oh and be sure your uppers are mounted so the longer side it mounted at the frame. That might also be part of the problem.
what do you mean, "one hole from the inners?" talkin about shock mounting on top?

I see you have your upper rear links in the middle hole on chassis side? Mine is on the lower hole.

The longer side would mean that the link curves by the rear of the servo, right?


Thanks Man

Last edited by 5150bronco; 03-10-2009 at 12:53 AM.
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Old 03-10-2009, 01:00 AM   #88
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Sounds like he's talking about the rear axle plate. One hole away from the inner holes on the plate, or, the second hole from the center.
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Old 03-10-2009, 01:11 AM   #89
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Sounds like he's talking about the rear axle plate. One hole away from the inner holes on the plate, or, the second hole from the center.
OH, thanks gunnar, you have been so helpful.

That makes sense to me. thanks. and thinkin of that now I see that would actually be better than in the center, cause the link barely hits the servo with it mounted in the center hole.

nice stuff gun! Tryin that shat tomorrow. dam i am almost there.
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Old 03-10-2009, 09:44 PM   #90
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Default DIG SETUP......, now.

I am running the hi-tec 225 dig servo. I am using DX3R tx too.

Can people put what options they changes they made to dial in the dig servo?

One issue currently experiencing...., The servo hums at about the 3rd to 4th engagement.


I would like to know what numbers for frame rate, travel, expo, etc?

Thanks guys!

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Old 03-11-2009, 12:00 PM   #91
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Default Dig SETUP......, frame rate (EPA'S)

What are some numbers or percent for frame rate with dx3r that people have used with this setup?

thanks.
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Old 03-11-2009, 09:55 PM   #92
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what rc4wd heims did you use .thanks I'll go search there site
nvm i over looked them Steely 8-32 Rod End (Heim Joint) (Ship 3/18/09)
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Old 03-11-2009, 11:13 PM   #93
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hey couldn't you just mount the servo upside down?are would it hit the drive line? i kinda just skimmed threw the whole build.
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Old 03-12-2009, 12:10 AM   #94
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Quote:
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what rc4wd heims did you use .thanks I'll go search there site
nvm i over looked them Steely 8-32 Rod End (Heim Joint) (Ship 3/18/09)
i got the 4mm ones. I would hold off on buying those quite yet though. There is some play in the heims and that might not be good for a comp crawler....????? Just something I have noticed and wanted to put on this thread.....FYI for peeps. I will report how it works and if it makes a difference.

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hey couldn't you just mount the servo upside down?are would it hit the drive line? i kinda just skimmed threw the whole build.
I did think of that too and gun mentioned it too, with cutting into the plate, but i dont think that would be the best option since it wont nec correct or provide a straight angle and it is very close to the cup of the mip.

hope this helps!
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Old 03-13-2009, 11:11 AM   #95
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Default Dig is Done!

Here are some pics of a lengthy project.
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I had little challenge figuring out dig and the dx3r setup.

My EPA or travel is 23% to 26%.

Instead of starting at on end point and working to other, I started in middle or free wheel position and worked to each end point. This is new to me so not sure the "right" way, but this way worked better for me than starting at each end point.

the dx3r has so many dam options and adjustments it is amazing. Luckily, I did not burn ANY servo's.....no casualties this round......

>>> I took the wire from servo ran underneath and bound it up in shrink tube......I am pretty anal about wires.....so I will make em look clean...!

Any questions, let me know. Thanks
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Old 03-13-2009, 11:56 AM   #96
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That's good, yes, those end points are a bit tricky to get at first, but that is how I progammed mine too. One suggestion, loosen the collar on the operating rod, and turn it to the right so the linkage is more of a straight line to the servo horn. In other words, twist it toward the motor and retighten. The linkage should end up pointing along a line at the right edge of the DNA case, and will give a straighter throw. You also might want to make the linkage about 1/4" longer. In the neutral position of the servo(dig-freewheel) the horn should be pointing straight at the reciever.

Last edited by gunnar; 03-13-2009 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 03-13-2009, 12:02 PM   #97
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Quote:
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That's good, yes, those end points are a bit tricky to get at first, but that is how I progammed mine too. One suggestion, loosen the collar on the operating rod, and turn it to the right so the linkage is more of a straight line to the servo horn. In other words, twist it toward the motor and retighten. The linkage should end up pointing along a line at the right edge of the DNA case, and will give a straighter throw. You also might want to make the linkage about 1/4" longer. In the neutral position of the servo(dig-freewheel) the horn should be pointing staright at the reciever.
Okay. I understand. And in fact I looked at bowties and his was like that to. So, turn the side on the dig towards motor so that end is aligned with servo turn buckle/rod end?

Thanks, I will make it longer...so horn is facing rx in freewheel/middle position.

NOT TODAY THOUGH......:-P:-P

I am going crawlin at linda vista and keeping it in place!

awesome help dude!
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Old 03-13-2009, 12:03 PM   #98
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Here is a pic to show you what I mean, see how the servo linkage is in line along the dig unit? Should take a few minutes to do:

Last edited by gunnar; 03-13-2009 at 03:35 PM.
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Old 03-13-2009, 07:08 PM   #99
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cool. got it. I will make that change now. along with some others changes, that happened during testing. :-x:-x
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Old 03-13-2009, 07:18 PM   #100
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Looking good. That next on my list for my build. I have always set my dig up with center for freewheel. Just works better or me.
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