Dna CFX comp build

[5150bronco]

Here are some pics of my first build here.

I welcome feedback and suggestions in any way.

Hope this helps anybody out as I have received tons of help.

Let the learning begin:


slingshot cfx chassis.


delrin links with rc4wd heims.

[Gst95dsm]

OK, sweet Chassis, sweet links..... don't tease, where's the rest?

[tomer]

yeah its a great start stop hidding it.

[5150bronco]

more pics, trying to get use to this iphoto app.

mayhem double phatty, wide offset.


panther tires


> I am going to make hybrid foams with memory and stock proline foams for side wall.

Here is the link mount I cut to use 4-link and make room for bta steering I am trying to figure out now.

[5150bronco]

dig servo hitec 225


the idea is to see where the servo horn and the pick up point for the tie rod......

Not sure if this will be too close for the steering arm....????here are ckrc high steer knucks



welcome all the ideas and comments.

[awd199]

Nice start! Cant wait to see it done. I just got finished with a Slingshot SE chassis a few weeks ago. Are you going tomount the dig servo on the electronics tray?

[5150bronco]

Originally Posted by awd199

Nice start! Cant wait to see it done. I just got finished with a Slingshot SE chassis a few weeks ago. Are you going tomount the dig servo on the electronics tray?

Yes, I was planning on doing that and putting it on the right side so it is not over the driveline.

[mint355]

Not sure if this will be too close for the steering arm....????here are ckrc high steer knucks

Hey Mate looks the goods so far the CKRC HI CLEAR knuckles should work cause when i bought my CKRC BTA kit they give you delrin standoffs to space between your knuckle and drag link...

[210solomon007]

Originally Posted by 5150bronco

Here are some pics of my first build here.

I welcome feedback and suggestions in any way.

Hope this helps anybody out as I have received tons of help.

Let the learning begin:


slingshot cfx chassis.
Attachment 92182

delrin links with rc4wd heims.
Attachment 92183

looking good. Also really like the rod ends.

[5150bronco]

Originally Posted by mint355

Not sure if this will be too close for the steering arm....????here are ckrc high steer knucks

Hey Mate looks the goods so far the CKRC HI CLEAR knuckles should work cause when i bought my CKRC BTA kit they give you delrin standoffs to space between your knuckle and drag link...

thanks. i am working on the servo horn and getting a pickup point dialed inso the drag and tie and parallel.

can you post pic of what you are using?

Originally Posted by 210solomon007

looking good. Also really like the rod ends.

THanks solomon! YOu guys do great work and I wanted to share with everybody.

I love those for sure! Using em on my scaler I am building and will start a thread after this is done.

I will definitely need help setting up dig to so........:smile:

[5150bronco]

Now I am trying to figure how to make or cut a MIP driveline with stock length to fit this chassis and DNA Dig?

Any suggestions?

[gunnar]

Originally Posted by 5150bronco

Now I am trying to figure how to make or cut a MIP driveline with stock length to fit this chassis and DNA Dig?

Any suggestions?

I used a grinder to shorten the splined part, used a tiny file to clean up and dress the ends, fit together no problem.

[CD13]

Be careful and don't cut to much,the splines on the female shaft only go half way down the shaft That didn't sound right.
Anyway,looking good,Your gonna LOVE that chassis

[gunnar]

Originally Posted by CD13

Be careful and don't cut to much,the splines on the female shaft only go half way down the shaft That didn't sound right.
Anyway,looking good,Your gonna LOVE that chassis

Check with a dental pick(or small screwdriver) to see how far the female splines are deep. if u cut make sure to check lengths so you don't bottom out the female side to the male. That's the reason I had to cut mine, and it was the shorter dig shaft! I cut both female and male ends, each half the distance of the total measurement I needed.

[5150bronco]

Originally Posted by CD13

Be careful and don't cut to much,the splines on the female shaft only go half way down the shaft That didn't sound right.
Anyway,looking good,Your gonna LOVE that chassis

Be careful not to cut to much off the male shaft (splined)?

Originally Posted by gunnar

Check with a dental pick(or small screwdriver) to see how far the female splines are deep. if u cut make sure to check lengths so you don't bottom out the female side to the male. That's the reason I had to cut mine, and it was the shorter dig shaft! I cut both female and male ends, each half the distance of the total measurement I needed.

You cut both shafts the same length? How much? Can you post pics?

The issue my buddy had doing this was: He did not cut female shaft at all and cut male shaft and grinded the part towards u-joint which caused the male shaft to spin freely in female.

So would you guys post pic and say lengths of what was cut that works?

THanks guys!

[CD13]

The male shaft will be fine but the female doesn't have splines all the way to the bottom.Like gunnar said,check it with something you can feel where the splines end and don't cut them all away.MPI also makes a short male shaft for disconnect.

[5150bronco]

Originally Posted by CD13

The male shaft will be fine but the female doesn't have splines all the way to the bottom.Like gunnar said,check it with something you can feel where the splines end and don't cut them all away.MPI also makes a short male shaft for disconnect.

okay. so cut the male, not female, and use a pick of some sort to measure how much room is left. Is that what i am hearing?

How much to cut off with your experience? Thanks CD!

[gunnar]

The length YOU will have to determine. Really no need to post a pic, it's just the end of the shaft going against a grinder. To me, if the shaft is too long, just take alittle off at first, like 1/8" or so and check the fit, still too long? cut alittle more then. In my case, I couldn't get full suspension cycling, cuz the shaft bottomed out and axle wouldn't move upwards anymore. After cutting about 1/8" or so off each end, I was good to go. Did your friend cut so far as to remove all the splines?

[gunnar]

Here is a pic from my build, you will see what I mean: The pic is at full droop, but if I raise the axle up, the female end will go almost to where the male side flares wide by the joint.

[rockz]

Originally Posted by CD13

Be careful and don't cut to much,the splines on the female shaft only go half way down the shaft That didn't sound right.
Anyway,looking good,Your gonna LOVE that chassis

I tried to shorten the mip male bone shaft and had to grind the fat part after the splie down quite a bit to get the shaft to work with my VF/DNA dig unit and was disappointed to find that when the dig was engaged, the splines went past the splines in the female bone and caused the wheels to spin freely rather than lockout... You need to get the short bone that MIP makes. The only place I have found to get it is from Thunder Tech Racing...