Jato's Monster Bolt

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by DirtyChevy45

Any updates on this bud?

Nope. I haven't really done much with it. The chassis is still sitting here untouched.

[DirtyChevy45]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Nope. I haven't really done much with it. The chassis is still sitting here untouched.

shoot if i'm working on my tuber finally you gotta be doin something with this lol!

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by DirtyChevy45

shoot if i'm working on my tuber finally you gotta be doin something with this lol!

I'm so "ADD". I'll start a project, see a shiny new RC, then get it, build it, then move onto the next thing. Right now I'm building a Tamiya M-07 on-road car.

[JatoTheRipper]

My ADD took me back to this Monster Bolt when I stumbled upon my Shoe Goo. For the first time I tried using that instead of glue to mount the tires on the wheels. I put 4 small dabs on each bead. After one battery pack it's held up fine.

I don't know if I like it with or without the beadlock rings. I'm starting to prefer it with them. In that case I'll have to print 2 more.

[DavidH]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

HBS112755

Can anybody give input on the drag link issue seen on page 2 of this thread?
...

I believe you may have resolved this, but when I converted my yeti to four-wheel steering, I purchased the complete front axle set (AX30831) and it came with the zero Ackermann steering plates, which I installed. As I make my own links, I thought nothing of it at the time, other than this option gives a bit more turning angle.

Since the axial zero Ackerman plates leave the old arms in place on the other side of the axle, I can see clearly that this option moves the tie rod pivot points further outwards, explaining why you had to lengthen the tie rod, assuming that you are also using zero Ackermann arms. You have to match the vanquish link kit to the arms you are using.

[JatoTheRipper]

I put in a fresh battery pack and after about 10 minutes it became front wheel drive. SOB!

It has to be the diff gears because everything else is fine.

My SMT10 is in pieces for the same reason. This is getting a locker in the rear.


And does anybody know how to keep these Hot Bodies servo savers from loosening? I have to keep tightening it down. It loosens as I drive.

[OSRC]

I initially had clod tires on my 'bolt, but they were just too much for the axles imo. They were not designed for that much weight hanging off the corners. Small kingpins, axles, and gears...just not a good combo. Could spend a ton on upgrades to make it work but wet the easy route - I swapped back over to 2.2's, geared it up and it's a much better truck. I took it out bashing last week and it's much more nimble.

[allanon1965]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

I put in a fresh battery pack and after about 10 minutes it became front wheel drive. SOB!

It has to be the diff gears because everything else is fine.

My SMT10 is in pieces for the same reason. This is getting a locker in the rear.


And does anybody know how to keep these Hot Bodies servo savers from loosening? I have to keep tightening it down. It loosens as I drive.

what gears are you running, the stock ones or the HD ones? Mine is running the stock gears and they are not lasting long at all so I am going to upgrade to the HD under drive gears soon..

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by OSRC

I initially had clod tires on my 'bolt, but they were just too much for the axles imo. They were not designed for that much weight hanging off the corners. Small kingpins, axles, and gears...just not a good combo. Could spend a ton on upgrades to make it work but wet the easy route - I swapped back over to 2.2's, geared it up and it's a much better truck. I took it out bashing last week and it's much more nimble.

I would agree with that. All of the parts are available to strengthen them except for the spider gears. I don't think anybody offers hardened versions of those.

Some people replace them with HPI gears, but the results are mixed.

Originally Posted by allanon1965

what gears are you running, the stock ones or the HD ones? Mine is running the stock gears and they are not lasting long at all so I am going to upgrade to the HD under drive gears soon..

I'm not sure because I didn't build this one. I won't know until I tear it open.

I ordered two Incision spools. I'm going to start with just the rear. The good thing about this truck is that it has 4 wheel steering so even with locked axles I shouldn't have any problems with turning.

[allanon1965]

well, to be honest, I think my premature gear wear has a lot to do with the choice of motor lol... i put the 5mm shafted 3800KV brushless sensored Castle Motor in it with the sidewinder sct esc...

Hoping that the hardened gear sets will hold up better. It was snapping the WB8HD driveshafts like toothpicks so I got the yeti MIP for the rear and will put another in the front soon.. I initially put the HR all metal scx10 transmission in it cause I figured it would not last if I didnt..

all in all its a fun rig! (when its not broken lol!)

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by allanon1965

well, to be honest, I think my premature gear wear has a lot to do with the choice of motor lol... i put the 5mm shafted 3800KV brushless sensored Castle Motor in it with the sidewinder sct esc...

Hoping that the hardened gear sets will hold up better. It was snapping the WB8HD driveshafts like toothpicks so I got the yeti MIP for the rear and will put another in the front soon.. I initially put the HR all metal scx10 transmission in it cause I figured it would not last if I didnt..

all in all its a fun rig! (when its not broken lol!)

That's the same system that's in this truck.

[JatoTheRipper]

I opened up the rear axle and found the ring and pinion gears to be in pretty good shape. They are the standard, sintered metal gears. I am going to see if my LHS has HD gears tomorrow hopefully in the underdriven 38T/13T. In this case the spider gears got destroyed. Two of them have slots in them to mate with the axles. These slots were rounded out by the axles. This is opposite of the problem I had in my SMT10. That ate the ring and pinion, but the spider gears were fine. Odd.

Upon pulling it apart I also noticed that the two spider gears are not the same. One is most likely from HPI and the other is Axial or the sturdier version from HPI. These are the types of unknowns you sometimes find when getting a used RC. This is the reason why I steer noobs away from used RC vehicles.



Here are the Incision lockers or spools. I'm only going to put one in the rear for now. The other will stay on hand has a spare.



I also bought these ProLine big bore shocks on here. I believe they are four rear Slash shocks. Two are internally limited and hence why you see a difference in length. I can't bring myself to pay full price for the Proline shocks, but I found this nice, gently used set in the classifieds for a good price and thought I'd give them a chance. They are not scale, but they are smooth and should work well.



So much for that good idea. They are too large in diameter and they will hit the rear sway bar. I need to figure out how to run these shocks and the sway bar. If anybody has suggestions I'm all ears!



At this point I think my SMT10 is going to be my "scale" MT and this Monster Bolt will be more about performance. I am still torn if I'm going to mount this driveline on the black SMT10 case I have sitting around.

One nice thing about the Deadbolt chassis is the skid plate that's much narrower. This creates a more severe angle between the lower links which allows for more steering. I like that. The SMT10 does not have enough steering with the huge JConcepts Firestorm tires. All things to consider going forward.

[JatoTheRipper]

I picked up one set of the HD gears 38T/13T from the LHS for the rear. I forgot to take photos, but I used the Axial HD gears and the Incision locker.

I realized I could narrow the sway bar and clear the big bore shocks. I cut the sway bar and then tried grinding a flat spot on the cut end. This was a much bigger PITA than I expected. It's tough to get the ground flat spot perfectly parallel with the machined in flat spot on the other side. In my test fitting attempts I stripped out the grub set screw on the Hot Racing sway bar. I'm going to try to fix it with J.B. Weld unless somebody else has a better idea. I'm open to options.

And if anybody has HR sway bar parts lying around that they'd like to sell, please PM me.



I don't have any spacers on hand so I used the Hot Racing aluminum balls as standoffs. They work, but I'm not sure if they'll ruin the opening on the shock. So I'm going to get proper spacers online.

I did a quick test run with the ProLine Power Stroke shocks installed. The springs and/or oil might be a little too stiff. It's raining here so I could only do a small test in the garage.

[DavidH]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

...

I realized I could narrow the sway bar and clear the big bore shocks. I cut the sway bar and then tried grinding a flat spot on the cut end. This was a much bigger PITA than I expected. It's tough to get the ground flat spot perfectly parallel with the machined in flat spot on the other side. In my test fitting attempts I stripped out the grub set screw on the Hot Racing sway bar. I'm going to try to fix it with J.B. Weld unless somebody else has a better idea. I'm open to options.

Cutting the bar is exactly what I would have tried.

As for the stripped thread, I would try to reuse the arm by tapping with a larger thread or make a new hole. This second hole would need a new corresponding flat spot on the bar.

[JatoTheRipper]

I can't keep this frickin' truck together. I was out doing donuts AKA cyclones with 4 wheel steering and it started acting up. It turns out the trailing arm/lower link stretched and let the ball fall out. The screw and nut fell off at the same time. No idea where they went. Now I need to upgrade to better trailing arms. Not sure which I want to get at this point.



I also got some more parts today. I wish the trailing arm would have stretched before I placed this order.

Hot Racing spacers because I feel I'll need them for sway bars or shocks or something. Spacers always come in handy.

The ProLine mounting kit for the Power Stroke shocks as well as the spring kit. I feel like I need softer springs on this truck.

Lastly some Hot Racing limiting straps since the K-Bess ones seem more difficult to come by these days.

[JatoTheRipper]

Which lower links / trailing arms are you using on your monster trucks? I want one with lower shock mounts. I'm leaning towards JEC.

[allanon1965]

here are pics of my axial spider gears vs hpi spider gears, they look identical...

[kmnss]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

I opened up the rear axle and found the ring and pinion gears to be in pretty good shape. They are the standard, sintered metal gears. I am going to see if my LHS has HD gears tomorrow hopefully in the underdriven 38T/13T. In this case the spider gears got destroyed. Two of them have slots in them to mate with the axles. These slots were rounded out by the axles. This is opposite of the problem I had in my SMT10. That ate the ring and pinion, but the spider gears were fine. Odd.

Upon pulling it apart I also noticed that the two spider gears are not the same. One is most likely from HPI and the other is Axial or the sturdier version from HPI. These are the types of unknowns you sometimes find when getting a used RC. This is the reason why I steer noobs away from used RC vehicles.

Well that explains why I've got two different ones here too. Must have been a few too many beers when assembling those.

On another note, the HPI gears work great so far and look like they're made from a completely different material than the old HPI/Axial gears. HPI part number 86014. Also comes with two sets of gears so you could technically do front and rear or have spares.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by kmnss

Well that explains why I've got two different ones here too. Must have been a few too many beers when assembling those.

On another note, the HPI gears work great so far and look like they're made from a completely different material than the old HPI/Axial gears. HPI part number 86014. Also comes with two sets of gears so you could technically do front and rear or have spares.

I bought this truck used. I wouldn't blame Axial for the mismatched gears.

I did put HPI gears in my Grave Digger. I forget the part number offhand.

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[Ascenderbender]

Hey jato you can get all steering components for about 80-90 of asiatees



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