Need help deciding!!!

[Phildirt]

Originally Posted by ScaleLifeNewbie

If you look at the clearance a 1:1 MT has, then compare it to the SMT10 and the LMT, the LMT has less, which in 1:1 gives lcg, which is what a 1:1 is all about.

If you want to see what I mean, look at the video posted above by BJoe of the driver of the Overkill Evolution MT overviewing the LMT. he’s the one that pointed it out to me.


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I've watched all of the LMT hype videos.


1:1 has a tube frame, not chassis plates. It looks very RC to the side to me. Kind of like a Ground Pounder or Everest 10 with a cage added to the top. It doesn't bother me, like said if I was going MT just to tear it up I wouldn't worry about scale, and I wouldn't get either of these.



If you want the SMT10 to sit lower just move the upper shock mounts up a bit, there are several ways to accomplish that.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by Phildirt

I've watched all of the LMT hype videos.


1:1 has a tube frame, not chassis plates. It looks very RC to the side to me. Kind of like a Ground Pounder or Everest 10 with a cage added to the top. It doesn't bother me, like said if I was going MT just to tear it up I wouldn't worry about scale, and I wouldn't get either of these.



If you want the SMT10 to sit lower just move the upper shock mounts up a bit, there are several ways to accomplish that.

Ok yeah, I see what you mean now.

I’m not too worried about scale, but would like it to look semi realistic.


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[BJoe]

I never caught the belly clearance thing either until I watched the first video where he gave the overview of the roller.

I get that it’s not as scale as a SMT-10, chassis wise, though I don’t consider the AR60 axles to be as remotely scale compared to the LMT or WK/CK axles. I would prefer the adjustability and strength over scale appearance if I’m going to bash it.

[Phildirt]

Originally Posted by BJoe

I never caught the belly clearance thing either until I watched the first video where he gave the overview of the roller.

I get that it’s not as scale as a SMT-10, chassis wise, though I don’t consider the AR60 axles to be as remotely scale compared to the LMT or WK/CK axles. I would prefer the adjustability and strength over scale appearance if I’m going to bash it.

What about the Arrma 4s/6s rigs? They are in the same ballpark as the LMT and appear to be indestructible. I'm having a seriously hard time talking myself out of one of the street bashers, the Infraction looks totally wicked haha. My luck I'd drive it down a storm drain or into a wall the first 30 seconds.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by BJoe

I never caught the belly clearance thing either until I watched the first video where he gave the overview of the roller.

I get that it’s not as scale as a SMT-10, chassis wise, though I don’t consider the AR60 axles to be as remotely scale compared to the LMT or WK/CK axles. I would prefer the adjustability and strength over scale appearance if I’m going to bash it.

Agreed. The SMT10 wins in some scale cases, and the LMT wins in others. The point you made about the axles is a good example.

I think the tire size to body size ratio looks better on the LMT, but that’s just me.


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[BJoe]

Originally Posted by ScaleLifeNewbie

Agreed. The SMT10 wins in some scale cases, and the LMT wins in others. The point you made about the axles is a good example.

I think the tire size to body size ratio looks better on the LMT, but that’s just me.


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Tires like the SMT are ok if the truck is the size of a Stampede or Wheely King, but when you start going to a Maxx sized body, they look more like 48” tires did back in the day.
My Wheely King is a good example of that, even when Maxx Chevrons were used.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by BJoe

Tires like the SMT are ok if the truck is the size of a Stampede or Wheely King, but when you start going to a Maxx sized body, they look more like 48” tires did back in the day.
My Wheely King is a good example of that, even when Maxx Chevrons were used.

That looks sick!

How did you do the rear steer? I know this won’t really apply to either of these MTs, but just curious how it’s done.


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[Phildirt]

I don't think a whole lot of guys keep the stockers on the SMT. I've seen a lot of clod sized setups on those rigs but my favorite is Jconcepts Tributes with Firestorms for an old school look or Renegades for a more up to date style. They even have those Golden Year tires now that are super throw back.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by Phildirt

I don't think a whole lot of guys keep the stockers on the SMT. I've seen a lot of clod sized setups on those rigs but my favorite is Jconcepts Tributes with Firestorms for an old school look or Renegades for a more up to date style. They even have those Golden Year tires now that are super throw back.

Yeah for sure the tributes are my favorite as well.

Wouldn’t the wider tires rub even more on the links causing less steering?


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[Phildirt]

Originally Posted by ScaleLifeNewbie

Yeah for sure the tributes are my favorite as well.

Wouldn’t the wider tires rub even more on the links causing less steering?


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No they have a ton of offset.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by Phildirt

No they have a ton of offset.

Yeah, I figured they did.


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[BJoe]

Originally Posted by ScaleLifeNewbie

That looks sick!

How did you do the rear steer? I know this won’t really apply to either of these MTs, but just curious how it’s done.


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Thanks!

It’s not that hard on the Wheely King/Crawler King, the rear axles are identical to the front with the exception of the lockout for the rear steer, you just need mount to put the servo on the axles, good enough servos, and a way to conteol either both servos from one channel or a 3 channel that allows for full throw in both directions. I beefed this up for Brushless power and huge tires, plus made everything in red using Traxxas Revo, E-Maxx, and Nitro Rustler Al parts.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by BJoe

Thanks!

It’s not that hard on the Wheely King/Crawler King, the rear axles are identical to the front with the exception of the lockout for the rear steer, you just need mount to put the servo on the axles, good enough servos, and a way to conteol either both servos from one channel or a 3 channel that allows for full throw in both directions. I beefed this up for Brushless power and huge tires, plus made everything in red using Traxxas Revo, E-Maxx, and Nitro Rustler Al parts.

Wow, the axles are exact? I would’ve never guessed lmao.

If Losi does sell the axles separate and it is possible to mount the front axle in the rear, could I control it with a TQi with diff and hi/low gear switch? I would really like to add rear steer at one point on my future MT, and I like the TQi radio. Sorry if this is a newbie question.


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[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Big thank you to everyone for your help on my decision!

I am going with the LMT for it durability, accessibility to the electronics, scale goodies, being brushless right out of the box, etc. It definitely seems like it’s worth the extra $300 compared to the SMT10. And holy cow, I didn’t realize how fast the LMT is! People are getting it up to 35-37mph on 3S with stock electronics! I’ll be running 2S since that’s what I have.

Speaking of batteries, I will need to get a Traxxas ID connector on the stock ESC. is there any adapters that go to a Traxxas ID from a IC5? Or will I just have to solder it on the ESC?

Has anyone ever preordered an RC from Amain or any place like that? If so, how does that work? Do I pay the $599 when I Preorder? Sorry if this is a stupid question, I’ve never preordered an RC, let alone order one online.

Again, thank you everyone for the tips/Pros and cons.

SIDE NOTE: I may be getting ahead of myself, but has anyone seen an 03-06 Chevy body? Don’t care if it’s a 1500 or 3500, only thing that matters is that it’s a 4 door. Picture for reference.




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[BJoe]

Originally Posted by ScaleLifeNewbie

Wow, the axles are exact? I would’ve never guessed lmao.

If Losi does sell the axles separate and it is possible to mount the front axle in the rear, could I control it with a TQi with diff and hi/low gear switch? I would really like to add rear steer at one point on my future MT, and I like the TQi radio. Sorry if this is a newbie question.


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I need to take a closer look, but I think they’re modular enough that you can swap the ends out and put knuckles, linkages, and servo and mount on the back axle, much like the WK and AX10/SC10 axles.
On that WK, I’m using an old DX3 radio since the Traxxas Link TQ3 and I’ve considered the newer DX5 radios for the 3rd channel for both the WK and my Clod, once I get axle mounts for the servos for that too or an air Rx and use my Spektrum 5ch Tx for the Clod.

Here’s my WK with a VXL system, a 3s, and the 4ws, that combo was too much and I’ve considered another Sidewinder SCT and 3800 kV combo with the battery moved up front like it was when I had the 2.2s and XL5 and Titan 12t on it.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by BJoe

I need to take a closer look, but I think they’re modular enough that you can swap the ends out and put knuckles, linkages, and servo and mount on the back axle, much like the WK and AX10/SC10 axles.
On that WK, I’m using an old DX3 radio since the Traxxas Link TQ3 and I’ve considered the newer DX5 radios for the 3rd channel for both the WK and my Clod, once I get axle mounts for the servos for that too or an air Rx and use my Spektrum 5ch Tx for the Clod.

Here’s my WK with a VXL system, a 3s, and the 4ws, that combo was too much and I’ve considered another Sidewinder SCT and 3800 kV combo with the battery moved up front like it was when I had the 2.2s and XL5 and Titan 12t on it.

That would be awesome if it’s possible!

I really like your Wheelie king! I was actually looking at getting one, but I’ve heard they are hard to work on for some reason.

Do you use rear steer enough for it to be worth it?


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[BJoe]

Ok, found the manual for the LMT, the axles are almost complete different, outside the diff assemblies, here’s the link to that manual.
https://www.horizonhobby.com/on/dema...-Manual-EN.pdf


When it comes to my WK, 4ws and a VXL on 3s is too much on that chassis, I have thought about trying my TQi and using the Ch2 ports for both since they’ll counter steer with how the servo’s are installed. If you can find one, you might look for a Crawler King if you want to get one of those too, it’s already stretched and has the body mounts to better fit the “Maxx” sized bodies. I would recommend an electric driver for disassembly, better tie rods and drag links and look for the Hot Bodies axle mounts for the servos, and if you’re wondering, the “ brakes” are the calipers and rotors are for Vaterra on road cars

Here’s my Photobucket page for that truck if you want to look closer.
https://app.photobucket.com/u/bjoeha...9-5bc8f6aac50f

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by BJoe

Ok, found the manual for the LMT, the axles are almost complete different, outside the diff assemblies, here’s the link to that manual.
https://www.horizonhobby.com/on/dema...-Manual-EN.pdf


When it comes to my WK, 4ws and a VXL on 3s is too much on that chassis, I have thought about trying my TQi and using the Ch2 ports for both since they’ll counter steer with how the servo’s are installed. If you can find one, you might look for a Crawler King if you want to get one of those too, it’s already stretched and has the body mounts to better fit the “Maxx” sized bodies. I would recommend an electric driver for disassembly, better tie rods and drag links and look for the Hot Bodies axle mounts for the servos, and if you’re wondering, the “ brakes” are the calipers and rotors are for Vaterra on road cars

Here’s my Photobucket page for that truck if you want to look closer.
https://app.photobucket.com/u/bjoeha...9-5bc8f6aac50f

Yeah that sucks there completely different. Hopefully a front axle can be bolted out back somehow.

When you say 4 wheel steer and VXL is too much, do you mean that it eats up batteries quick?


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[BJoe]

Originally Posted by ScaleLifeNewbie

Yeah that sucks there completely different. Hopefully a front axle can be bolted out back somehow.

When you say 4 wheel steer and VXL is too much, do you mean that it eats up batteries quick?


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I wouldn’t be shocked if it was a bolt it, though I was surprised to see so much different, even down the control arm mounts and some of the screws!

When it came to my WK, it was hard to control, with the battery in the back, it would just stand up almost instantly, even though the rear links are all longer and should counter that. That’s why I’m thinking that reflipping the chassis so the battery is up front, the lower power potential of a 2s, then one of the 3800kV Castle 540 size motors that shouldn’t have the grunt of the Velineon 3500, plus that and the Sidewinder SCT on 2s will be lighter than the full Velineon VXL system on 3s is, since all those items are mounted high on the chassis and help with the overall stability of the truck.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by BJoe

I wouldn’t be shocked if it was a bolt it, though I was surprised to see so much different, even down the control arm mounts and some of the screws!

When it came to my WK, it was hard to control, with the battery in the back, it would just stand up almost instantly, even though the rear links are all longer and should counter that. That’s why I’m thinking that reflipping the chassis so the battery is up front, the lower power potential of a 2s, then one of the 3800kV Castle 540 size motors that shouldn’t have the grunt of the Velineon 3500, plus that and the Sidewinder SCT on 2s will be lighter than the full Velineon VXL system on 3s is, since all those items are mounted high on the chassis and help with the overall stability of the truck.

Oh ok, I understand now.

There’s definitely a point where something is uncontrollably fun and uncontrollably annoying lmao. It seems like flipping the chassis should help, but I’m no MT expert!


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