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Old 01-18-2022, 08:57 PM   #1
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Default Building something MEGA instead...:shock:

Those with a keen eye will notice that this post is a copy and paste of my first post from a thread I had started in the 2.2 section. The plan WAS to build a rock bouncer. Aaaand, plans change. Honestly, I'd rather build something the kids and I can run around the yard popping wheelies with. Anyway, the axles I already built are a good place to start. Because basically everything else I had planned has changed.

SSD Diamond Wraith/Yeti housings with their optional machined delrin pinion sliders, two sets of Vanquish/Incision spools and 43/13 UD ring and pinions, a handful of Fast Eddy bearings, and Vanquish scale knuckles and clamping c-hubs with their brass kingpin bushings filling the gap. The swervo (Protek 370TBL) is mounted on a Vanquish one piece servo mount. To continue the "black on black" theme, all the hardware has been swapped for black oxide Grade 12.9s...no bent stainless on this car. Waiting on a pair of Vanquish RCVs for the front and then it's time for the next stage...everything that goes between these two axles.









Assembly notes...

Use M3x8 screws to mount the lower link mounts. The included M3x10s rubbed the rear shafts lightly, even when cut down to 9mm long. Assuming they would REALLY rub the larger diameter Vanquish RCV shafts in the front. The housing only has about 3-4mm of thread engagement no matter what...the longer screws do absolutely nothing but rub the shafts.

Speaking of link mounts, the front link mounts measure 116mm apart on center. 115mm on this centered rear. Though they are all properly centered. Me thinks there may have been a small mixup with numbers in the design process. It's not a big issue, and definitely not a deal breaker. For all I know, they may have just not been comfortable with the front link mounts being any closer to the third member. Running a 0.5mm thick washer outside of a Revo pivot ball in the front and inside in the rear will put your link centers at 115.5mm if you're really that worried about it. Or, if you're using Axial 7.5mm wide pivot balls for some reason flip the pivot balls so the flanges are out on one end, in on the other.

Use grease to work the Vanquish c-hubs on and off the splines on the ends of the housing. Just forcing them on in one shot will likely end up with the c-hubs permanently stuck on the housing. Yes, it's that tight. Which is a good thing.

These axles are tight everywhere...including around the spool. Zero slop between the spool bearings and housings is a nice thing. Pinion depth appears very close to spot-on. I did however add one 0.1mm shim behind each pinion just to get as close to zero lash as I could and in an attempt to account for any deflection that may occur in the pinion bearings themselves under power.

Vanquish AR60 ring and pinions are fantastic...buttery smooth, MUCH thicker gear teeth than OG Axial HD gears...these should be almost indestructible.

Last edited by 89redranger; 01-18-2022 at 09:53 PM.
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Old 01-18-2022, 09:24 PM   #2
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Default Re: Building something MEGA instead...:shock:

I sent the DXFs for these off this morning to be laser cut from 1/8" 6061 and ordered a pile of Wheely King trans parts. And some MAXX shafts and 5 and 6mm yokes. Ordered a cheap Integy trans case to build my trans from, RC3WD machined gears, and a slipper eliminator made for Slash drag applications that I hope will allow 32P Kimbrough spurs to fit the WK top shaft.

One motor mount leaves the motor in its stock position on top the trans and integrates a gear guard to keep the finger and wire shredding to a minimum. The other is a flipped motor mount that will allow the motor to be moved toward the front of the truck, kinda where it should be. Or maybe the whole trans could be flipped for rear motor MT shenanigans later?

So...why the WK trans? Because it looks better than an Axial trans. And the somewhat realistic layout with my mount should provide optimum levels of scale "big dumb truck" weight transfer fun. Also, that cheap shiny clear anodized Chinese billet case should look cool under the truck. And who doesn't like the hurricane of noises that plastic 32P and Mod 1 steel gears create?





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Old 01-19-2022, 09:55 PM   #3
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Default Re: Building something MEGA instead...:shock:

Wheels for my DOT friendly tire combo showed up today. The finest China has to offer. 25mm wide RCLions 2.2s with added blue rings. My plan is to stretch the Pro-Line 5.4" tall 1.9 Boggers around them. Looks like the final width with the Boggers stretched over these skinnies should be somewhere around 12-1/8". Good or bad, I have no idea. But the scrub radius on the front axle looks like shit. So I may pick up either a set of Chinese 6mm hubs to replace the included 9mm units, or a set of the " Team Brood B-Mag hubs...drilled and tapped for M3 hardware.

Then I'll pick up a set of Fling Kings for any time the rig may actually see mud. And I'll most likely design and laser cut my own wheels for those.

Also had an issue ordering the WK trans case. For whatever reason EBAY canceled the transaction and refunded me. So I ordered a black GPM unit from another site. Should be here in a week or so. Then we can start piecing together suspension parts so I can start kinking up some perfectly good solid rod and tube.





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Last edited by 89redranger; 01-19-2022 at 10:28 PM.
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Old 01-20-2022, 12:26 AM   #4
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Default Re: Building something MEGA instead...:shock:

Started modeling the stock plastic WK trans tonight. Will knock out the webbing on the exterior and all the internal details a bit later. For now, this gets a big bit of guesswork out of the way. At least now, with accurate geometry, I can start doodling up some basic chassis components.





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Old 01-21-2022, 09:38 PM   #5
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Default Re: Building something MEGA instead...:shock:

Quote:
Originally Posted by 89redranger View Post
Sure is quiet around here. Luckily for you guys, I don't mind talking to myself.
I'm reading and watching...

Waiting to see what ya come up with!

I have basically the same axles set - built them a few years back - about 80% SSD parts and 10% Vanquish and 10% Hot Racing (I think just the link mounts, from them).

Also have a aluminum Hot Racing RR10 Bomber skid and tranny housing, with RRP steel gears.

All never been run, just assembled.

Broke off a couple MIP driver tips, one bolting the housing to the skid, and the other in a MIP driveshaft setscrew (Oh - I forgot to mention, I have MIP driveshafts for the build).

That put a long-term but temporary halt to my forward progress.

(Came from being way too ham-fisted tightening tiny screws, I've tried to get better at that over the years!)

I ended up using a set of plastic Dlux Fab RR10 Bomber big-bearing axle housings with more Vanquish, SSD, Hot Racing, etc stuff inside and bolted to the outside of 'em for my first Bomber build.

One set of axles has LockedUpRC F1 spools, and the other a rare set of Holmes Hobbies spools - can't remember which has which!

I've got a set of Xtreme Racing RR10 Bomber carbon fiber chassis rails to do a very different second build - just need to somehow extract the broken bit driver tips and swap stuff around - I figure the metal SSD axles and Hot Racing skid/trans will go under my Axial-caged existing build and I will swap the lighter plastic axles and skid under the carbon rails.

The Xtreme Racing rails will accept the Pro-line Slash-style body mounts with screw-on caps so that I can make holes in the rocker-panel area of a Lexan short-course-truck-sized body and slap it on there.

Depending on the fender openings, I can run monster truck tires if I want...

Anyways - so far, here's the axles that I haven't run, just assembled (JEC Racing SS links, too) - and the first Bomber (HH Revolver v1, 1800kv, Mamba X, 4S) before I took it out and beat on it...
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Old 01-22-2022, 10:26 AM   #6
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Default Re: Building something MEGA instead...:shock:

Quote:
Originally Posted by durok View Post
I'm reading and watching...



Waiting to see what ya come up with!



I have basically the same axles set - built them a few years back - about 80% SSD parts and 10% Vanquish and 10% Hot Racing (I think just the link mounts, from them).



Also have a aluminum Hot Racing RR10 Bomber skid and tranny housing, with RRP steel gears.



All never been run, just assembled.



Broke off a couple MIP driver tips, one bolting the housing to the skid, and the other in a MIP driveshaft setscrew (Oh - I forgot to mention, I have MIP driveshafts for the build).



That put a long-term but temporary halt to my forward progress.



(Came from being way too ham-fisted tightening tiny screws, I've tried to get better at that over the years!)



I ended up using a set of plastic Dlux Fab RR10 Bomber big-bearing axle housings with more Vanquish, SSD, Hot Racing, etc stuff inside and bolted to the outside of 'em for my first Bomber build.



One set of axles has LockedUpRC F1 spools, and the other a rare set of Holmes Hobbies spools - can't remember which has which!



I've got a set of Xtreme Racing RR10 Bomber carbon fiber chassis rails to do a very different second build - just need to somehow extract the broken bit driver tips and swap stuff around - I figure the metal SSD axles and Hot Racing skid/trans will go under my Axial-caged existing build and I will swap the lighter plastic axles and skid under the carbon rails.



The Xtreme Racing rails will accept the Pro-line Slash-style body mounts with screw-on caps so that I can make holes in the rocker-panel area of a Lexan short-course-truck-sized body and slap it on there.



Depending on the fender openings, I can run monster truck tires if I want...



Anyways - so far, here's the axles that I haven't run, just assembled (JEC Racing SS links, too) - and the first Bomber (HH Revolver v1, 1800kv, Mamba X, 4S) before I took it out and beat on it...
Good lookin collection of part ya got there. The Bomber looks rad too.

Those broken MIP tips might be a bit of a bitch to fix/remove though. I believe MIP cuts their driver tips from spring steel, which means even drilling the screws themselves out could be next to impossible. You could cut a slot in the skid screw with a Dremel and a cutoff wheel, try to remove it with a flathead screwdriver. The MIP yoke though, you may have just grind through the yoke on the threaded side until the pin falls out and you can remove it from your pinion or trans output. Then replace it with another MIP yoke for a few bucks. Best of luck there!

For this reason and this reason alone, I don't torque on RC parts. Let the screw hit bottom, just snug it up. If they won't stay tight, it's time for the blue loctite or locking hardware. For stuff like aluminum trans case and drive shafts, just loctite it all to begin with. And ALWAYS clean your parts and hardware with some alcohol or brake clean to remove any oils or grease before the loctite. And fellas, let the stuff dry properly. 24 hours.

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Last edited by 89redranger; 01-22-2022 at 12:26 PM.
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Old 01-22-2022, 03:20 PM   #7
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Default Re: Building something MEGA instead...:shock:

Thanks!

Before getting into this side of things, I lost over a dozen non-crawler RCs and all my support gear in an apartment complex fire back in 2009- sorta ruined the hobby for me for quite a while.

The Bomber kit was my first crawler purchase, about 6+ years ago - and only took me two years to build it, because I first sourced enough upgrades to basically build 2 more...



I got so involved in it that I bought an Ascender to actually run during the build process.

Picked up an extractor bit set for tiny screws, probably not enough to get at the bit-ends without ruining the parts - but I also have a Dremel!

So - yep, eventually I'll get around to fixing it - may not be pretty afterwards, but it should work.

I'm back to over a dozen RCs again, and this time only 4 are non-crawlers - an Associated DB8 Nomad buggy, a Traxxas 4-tec 2.0, a Tamiya M-08, and a WPL D12 Kei truck. Got enough stuff to build a 2nd Element-based truck, a Vanquish VS4-10 chassis, 3 more axle sets, one more transmission, and a handful of other bodies to eventually do something with in addition to the 2nd Bomber build and everything listed in my sig (most of which I have loads of uninstalled upgrades for as well).

It's an obsession.
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Old 01-24-2022, 06:49 PM   #8
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Default Re: Building something MEGA instead...:shock:

trans build is looking sick, I'd be down for a housing/motor mount if you decide to sell one. I recently bought a wheely king trans setup to put in a new mud truck build. Axles are killer, I have the same setup in my bronco mega truck I built.
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Old 01-24-2022, 07:28 PM   #9
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Default Re: Building something MEGA instead...:shock:

Axle porn is always good.

So is fancy 3d renderings...

But some of us are waiting to see that trans turn into reality. What's the plans for the nternal gears? Aren't the stockers plastic with a weird slipper/clicker?
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Old 01-24-2022, 07:44 PM   #10
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Default Re: Building something MEGA instead...:shock:

Quote:
Originally Posted by badBKO View Post
trans build is looking sick, I'd be down for a housing/motor mount if you decide to sell one. I recently bought a wheely king trans setup to put in a new mud truck build. Axles are killer, I have the same setup in my bronco mega truck I built.
Quote:
Originally Posted by meatmonkey View Post
Axle porn is always good.

So is fancy 3d renderings...

But some of us are waiting to see that trans turn into reality. What's the plans for the nternal gears? Aren't the stockers plastic with a weird slipper/clicker?
Thanks guys!

I'm using RC4WD steel gears in the WK trans with a GPM billet case and my own motor mount(s).

The fancy'er renderings are of an Axial based trans with a WK style layout. So it will use Axial internals throughout. The only exception being 5x11x4 top shaft bearings.

Unfortunately, a good friend of mine reminded me today that I have a bad habit of letting things evolve to the point of just becoming an ongoing project. So this truck is going to continue being built with the billet SSD axles and built WK trans. The Axial based unit will be saved for a smaller, lighter and faster build that will soon follow. Playing with chassis renderings now to get an idea how I want to hang it in a chassis...there's no skid under a real Mega or MT. But I can't even begin to discuss sales without a star. Kinda like it here, not looking to get the boot.

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Last edited by 89redranger; 01-24-2022 at 10:17 PM.
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Old 01-26-2022, 09:02 AM   #11
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Default Re: Building something MEGA instead...:shock:

The first prototypes showed up yesterday. A few small errors, nothing that can't be corrected. Unfortunately, it did require a brand new model because of the way I chose to draw the first. But it goes quick when you already have all the numbers. The revised model will be uploaded and ordered as soon as I finish enough parts to put together another order.

For those looking to check out laser cutting for your own projects, check out sendcutsend.com. Combined with Fusion 360, which is free, these parts and half a dozen others the same size cost me about $29 with free shipping. Just wish I could figure out how to get them to ship some way other than FedEx...may have to send them an email.

V2 includes a larger gear guard diameter, a larger radius at the top of the gear guard to better cover the pinion, a larger bolt pattern for the gear guard standoffs...clearance for larger spurs, and the forward motor version got the motor holes elongated by 3.5mm closer to the spur centerline to allow both WK and Axial type gearing combos and reduced pitch diameter gear combinations. Sadly, I can't do the same with the version that allows stock motor placement. The trans case' outside diameter prevents the motor from getting any closer.













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Last edited by 89redranger; 01-26-2022 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 01-28-2022, 07:21 PM   #12
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Default Re: Building something MEGA instead...:shock:

Starting to lay out link and shock geometry. All the lengths of these lines floating in space have actually been figured from a another view so their lengths when viewed from the side are correct.

Anyway, I guess the cat's outta the bag on this one...it'll be getting a Traxxas 1969 Blazer body. And the chassis has been recreated as close to true scale size as possible (8.455:1 according to the wheelbase). The question some will ask though...why so tall? Because uncut body, 5.7" tall Fling King 2.6s and Pro-Line 5" XT shocks. That's why.

Time to get to work filling in some blanks...

Not sure who Rod is but, thank you sir! The only Blazer 2D chassis prints I could find. Anywhere. Luckily '69-'72 are the same, and 2WD and 4WD chassis are so similar it doesn't matter.





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Last edited by 89redranger; 01-29-2022 at 01:38 AM.
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