Sumo Crawler build 001
 

Not sure if I'll maintain posting of my updates, but I thought I should at least begin .. and share my first mod: beadlock wheels using stock Losi crawler rims + RC4WD tires.

You'll require nothing but basic tools and some collars/sleeves with exactly a 27mm ID (Also a saw to cut your sleeves). I used scrap tubes from a bicycle shop, cut with a chop-saw to 10mm width. They're steel, so add a bit of weight, which I wanted, but I found some PVC with a 27mm ID if you preferred.

Here you first remove the inside plastic flanges from the wheels:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8337/8...60351624e8.jpg
Sumo beadlock wheels 01 by facetheftvictim

Roll some extra weight to the inside of the rims, if you want it:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8220/8...2996e3444d.jpg
Sumo beadlock wheels 02


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8357/8...a7ed30cf90.jpg
Sumo beadlock wheels 03

Assembly is straight-forward, but it takes some getting used to to do it perfectly. I attach one of the side "locking plates" first all of the way, then release the screws 2-3 turns each. Then I fit the locking sleeve inside of the tire, doing my best to keep the sleeve mounted to the inner lip (I suppose you could use just the tiniest bit of CA, but I didnt). once the wire/sleeve is up agains the locking plate, hold it carefully in position and check to see if the tire's other side lip is aligned in-between the rim and sleeve. Gently poke the lip in just enough so it is pocketed (a piece of extra sleeve tubing can help), then place the 2nd plate over it and push down slightly to even the pocketing out. Begin installing screws in a triangle pattern, 3 at first, tighten just a hair. Add 3 more screws, tighten a bit, and begin securing it. Tighten the other side a turn or two. If the Tires lip begins to bulge out, you can back a couple screws out and carefully, using a fingernail or similar, squish the rubber back in, retighten evenly on both sides and voila!

I also filled my wheel vents with CA, so my tires are airtight.

My next step is to build a simple frame extension, for a more scale appearance, and versatility of adding bodies or accessories, like the Trekker has,

Re: Sumo Crawler build 001
 

Nice! this has been done with PVC before but the added weight from the steel rings,measurements and pictures are good.
I need to see if my friend still has any handlebar scrap laying around and try it out

Re: Sumo Crawler build 001
 

ahh my bad: I never search 'boards to see if anyone has done mods similar .. it wouldn't be any fun to find other people had the same idea ;]

I had to pick through about 10 different pieces before finding exactly 27mm ID. My guess is that it was an old british/european bike. Thickness was 1mm, which is good, not too thick.

Re: Sumo Crawler build 001
 

day 2.. 1st prototype "frame". No bumpers or cross-members yet. I was going to use delrin or more aluminium, but since RedCat was already sending me replacement axles for my defective one, I thought I'd just get some more of their TVP posts. Likely I will use this sloppy frame, even if I didn't bother making it perfect (seriously, I'm used to doing it all with hand tools, and today instead tried with the band-saw), after a bit of finishing.


[IMG]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8488/8...ea15bc27b6.jpg IMG_1123_1 by facetheftvictim, on Flickr[/IMG]


I'm thinking that if I get out to my storage location at some point, I'll grab a set of my modified Fast-Lane (mini) crawler shocks, seeing as this Sumo can articulate ~90d without the restriction of it's shocks. Also, can't altogether remove the springs, because of torque-roll (?). If I can manage it, I'll make it a half-droop setup.

Need to replace those low steering-linkages and get some LiPo cells -Personally, I don't believe this requires more voltage, but It def is too top-heavy with the AAAs

Re: Sumo Crawler build 001
 

Nice! BTW linked your post to the beadlock thread I mentioned. It happened to be bumped up and reminded me "thumbsup"
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/losi-...ml#post4095950

Re: Sumo Crawler build 001
 

Here's my other Sumo. New Bright Jeep body (Wal-Mart 13$) mounted by cutting OEM body posts at the 4th hole out, add a drop of CA+baking-soda to the tips of them to make a convex tip (or you could cut post longer and shape it..), dremel out just a bit into the body to make a concave well (I Sharpied the cutout to make more visible) the body snaps on easy & solid. Decided not to relocate the electronics, so cut the passenger-side kick-panel out and some of the glove-box. Also took the brush-guard from the New Bright frame, mounts perfect on the body with some dremeling of the guard.

To better match the body (and for more versatility in future 24th body options), shortened the wheelbase by relocating the upper links where I already had on the other Sumo. And also shortened the centre driveshafts.

[IMG]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8052/8...9a6624f352.jpg IMG_1225_1 by facetheftvictim, on Flickr[/IMG]


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8463/8...bc7ba78cd5.jpg
IMG_1227_1 by facetheftvictim, on Flickr


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8185/8...0d02069bd2.jpg
IMG_1228_1 by facetheftvictim, on Flickr


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8217/8...75344c53dc.jpg
IMG_1226_1 by facetheftvictim, on Flickr

Re: Sumo Crawler build 001
 

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8046/8...d63b28ccec.jpg
IMG_1230_1 by facetheftvictim, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8468/8...930cf2bb65.jpg
IMG_1231_1 by facetheftvictim, on Flickr

Here's the frame addition along with crossmembers installed (standard OEM Redcat)

The extra electrical connectors are so I could modularly install 2 lipo 400mah 25C cells, which fit perfectly in existing battery bays.
Lipos I used are "Keer Lipo 652036" ebay caption: "eBest 3.7V 350mah upto 400mah 25C Li-po battery lipo Mini CP V100D03BL V100D08" Mine tested at 460 and 464, not bad. Didn't find ANY other which would fit so perfectly. Though this would work too, if in stock: Value Hobby R/C Hobby Store (Bensenville, Illinois): GForce 20C 350mAh 2S 7.4V LiPO

So lightweight now.. I need softer springs! Contacted Redcat requesting specs on how much softer their "soft" springs are, still waiting for reply. Can't remove them altogether, nor go too light, because of Torque-roll.