Sparks RC4WD D90 Panel Van

[Sparks1337]

So I’ve finally got round to starting a build thread for this. I needed a runner while my various builds were underway – make no mistake the baby Gelande is a lovely lovely thing, but instead of an RTR I just got another project. Deep breath, it’s a long post -

I started with the suspension - lower links moved inboard at the axle and springs cut in half for semi droop, lower ride height and full travel in the shocks. I didn't like the dirt grabbers so swapped to a set of Rok Lox:



I didn't like the look of inboard lower links so I took two sets of pliers to them and bent them at the ends to look a bit like the uppers, only reversed and a much less pronounced kink. This reduces angle the the ball ends have to go through and gives the same amount of travel as mounting them inboard - I might've shortened the wheelbase a fraction, but it isn't noticeable. No pics of this, sorry.

Then I set about the power issue. I wanted to keep the pretty little RC4WD transfer box but it needs a further 2:1 to 3:1 reduction, and I really felt a truck with this weight was crying out for big block power. After a few attempts I came up with this:


Shaft and pinion from the stock motor, with a 48T gear, two 4x1.5x2 ball bearings, two 8mm M2 spacers from a HBX, some 2mm ally sheet, drilled and tapped, and sections of 4mm and 5mm OD ally tube:





It is a bit of an odd design, but it is super sturdy. Mounting the two bearings in a 5mm tube with a 4mm tube inserted between them as a seat allows the axle to run nice and true, despite my less than accurate metalwork For info the 130/180 motor mount holes are 12mm apart, the stock RC4WD motor has 10mm spacing.

It has just enough clearance to fit a 180 stroker in there without hitting the links. It's running a 15T pinion for 3:2 reduction - slightly too much for trail running really - about 2mph flat out. I'm going to experiment with up to a 22T pinion to see what ratio gives the best balance of low speed control and top speed.




Here is a very quick demo vid:
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/mungo1337/RC%20Cars/th_1-18Gelande180_TreeTest%201_low_zpsd2oml8yp.mp4

Next up was paint, but first I needed to fix the mirrors - I snapped one not long after opening the box and they're on the wrong way round. I used plastic-coated wire filed to a square cross-section and styrene sheet to make mounting sockets and arms. I chopped the other mirror up and drilled a 1mm hole in the bottom for the new arm. I also made a snorkel using a drinking straw and styrene tube:



The mounts plug into the existing mirror holes in the body and glued in. The arms plug into the mirror and were superglued. The other end plugs into the 1mm hole drilled in the mount - gummed up with threadlock so that they are secure but will fold flat in a roll-over. I can confirm they work as intended

I followed Bills advice on dismantling the body - I'm sure I would've snapped something without it, and I think it’s worth repeating and expanding on here. No pics again though sorry.

Undo the four screws holding the body parts together. Roof first – it is a tight fit and has to be manipulated. The join is under the gutter on either side – run your fingernails back and forwards until it starts to go – front seemed to lift first and after a few dummy runs the back eventually fives way. The front window just drops out after that.

The rear windows are all one piece and really put up a fight so be careful – it took me ages to get it out and there are some really thin sections over the side windows that you can easily snap.

I went a stage further than Bill and removed all the detail parts as well. The mirrors, door handles, side repeaters, second rear number plate, vents front light panels and grille all mount with plastic pegs through holes in the body, melted over inside.

Use a sharp craft knife/scalpel to slice away the melted plastic and they just pop out. A drop of glue is needed to re-install but they are a tight press fit. The rear light clusters are glued to the body but can be gently prised free. Makes painting a whole lot easier.

I wanted a panel van, so after some hesitation I cut either side of the side window mouldings and along the top of the waistline, then inseted some 2mm styrene sheet, with an overlapping lip along the waist and reinforcements at either end on the iside. filled and sanded they came out reasonably well I think. Cutting out the side wiindows made replacing the glass a damn sight easier too

Onto the paint. I wanted mine to look like a typical enthusiast UK off-roader so went for a proper LR colour - Arles Blue, with a white roof. I thought about painting the wheels white, but bottled it. Black is also good








I'm pretty happy with how it performs - the lack of travel is made up for by power, even on 2s - on 3s this thing would be mental. Hoping they release CVDs and a redesigned knuckle as the lack of steering is now its major downfall. I kind of like the weight and limited suspension travel – it moves around more like a 1:1 would and makes a great trail runner. I’m sure a losi could still run rings around it in a comp crawl but this is in a different league in terms of scale looks and feel.

Here is a vid of a gentle run at Black Rocks, Derbyshire:
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/...pswpowuxfb.mp4

The disadvantages of this setup are that it requires the rear brace to be removed, but this is in two pieces so leaves a simple crossmember. I also can't now opt for more travel than allowed with the stock suspension components, and it throws a lot of weight out back - offset to some extent by the deleted chassis brace. I've shifted all the electronics under the bonnet and weighted the front wheels slightly to compensate.

I’m working up the enthusiasm to tackle lights next, then maybe an interior, or at least inner arches and some sort of floorpan in styrene. But my WIP HBX FJ70 has languished too long …

[bolo79]

Congrats �� I checked rc4wd store and what I see?Your rig��.

[Sparks1337]

Lol cheers Bolo79. I'm not fussy, I'll whore my pics around anywhere that'll take 'em ;)

The pics were sent with some feedback, that Tom Allen at RC4WD was good enough to respond to personally. Apparently I wasn't the first to vent, and they are 'looking at it'.

I really hope they do something, because put right this truck could redefine what we expect from a micro. Left as it is - it's likely to put newcomers off for life, and a lot of people in the know are going to steer clear too because of the limited modding options.

[Clingman]

Great work, Sparks. Also nice to know that rc4wd is at least acknowledging that they could have done a lot better. Maybe when they get some changes made I'll give them another shot (if someone else doesn't beat them to it in this size category) .

[Aeronuclear]

Originally Posted by Sparks1337

So I’ve finally got round to starting a build thread for this. I needed a runner while my various builds were underway – make no mistake the baby Gelande is a lovely lovely thing, but instead of an RTR I just got another project. Deep breath, it’s a long post -

I started with the suspension - lower links moved inboard at the axle and springs cut in half for semi droop, lower ride height and full travel in the shocks. I didn't like the dirt grabbers so swapped to a set of Rok Lox:



I didn't like the look of inboard lower links so I took two sets of pliers to them and bent them at the ends to look a bit like the uppers, only reversed and a much less pronounced kink. This reduces angle the the ball ends have to go through and gives the same amount of travel as mounting them inboard - I might've shortened the wheelbase a fraction, but it isn't noticeable. No pics of this, sorry.

Then I set about the power issue. I wanted to keep the pretty little RC4WD transfer box but it needs a further 2:1 to 3:1 reduction, and I really felt a truck with this weight was crying out for big block power. After a few attempts I came up with this:


Shaft and pinion from the stock motor, with a 48T gear, two 4x1.5x2 ball bearings, two 8mm M2 spacers from a HBX, some 2mm ally sheet, drilled and tapped, and sections of 4mm and 5mm OD ally tube:





It is a bit of an odd design, but it is super sturdy. Mounting the two bearings in a 5mm tube with a 4mm tube inserted between them as a seat allows the axle to run nice and true, despite my less than accurate metalwork For info the 130/180 motor mount holes are 12mm apart, the stock RC4WD motor has 10mm spacing.

It has just enough clearance to fit a 180 stroker in there without hitting the links. It's running a 15T pinion for 3:2 reduction - slightly too much for trail running really - about 2mph flat out. I'm going to experiment with up to a 22T pinion to see what ratio gives the best balance of low speed control and top speed.




Here is a very quick demo vid:
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/mungo1337/RC%20Cars/th_1-18Gelande180_TreeTest%201_low_zpsd2oml8yp.mp4

Next up was paint, but first I needed to fix the mirrors - I snapped one not long after opening the box and they're on the wrong way round. I used plastic-coated wire filed to a square cross-section and styrene sheet to make mounting sockets and arms. I chopped the other mirror up and drilled a 1mm hole in the bottom for the new arm. I also made a snorkel using a drinking straw and styrene tube:



The mounts plug into the existing mirror holes in the body and glued in. The arms plug into the mirror and were superglued. The other end plugs into the 1mm hole drilled in the mount - gummed up with threadlock so that they are secure but will fold flat in a roll-over. I can confirm they work as intended

I followed Bills advice on dismantling the body - I'm sure I would've snapped something without it, and I think it’s worth repeating and expanding on here. No pics again though sorry.

Undo the four screws holding the body parts together. Roof first – it is a tight fit and has to be manipulated. The join is under the gutter on either side – run your fingernails back and forwards until it starts to go – front seemed to lift first and after a few dummy runs the back eventually fives way. The front window just drops out after that.

The rear windows are all one piece and really put up a fight so be careful – it took me ages to get it out and there are some really thin sections over the side windows that you can easily snap.

I went a stage further than Bill and removed all the detail parts as well. The mirrors, door handles, side repeaters, second rear number plate, vents front light panels and grille all mount with plastic pegs through holes in the body, melted over inside.

Use a sharp craft knife/scalpel to slice away the melted plastic and they just pop out. A drop of glue is needed to re-install but they are a tight press fit. The rear light clusters are glued to the body but can be gently prised free. Makes painting a whole lot easier.

I wanted a panel van, so after some hesitation I cut either side of the side window mouldings and along the top of the waistline, then inseted some 2mm styrene sheet, with an overlapping lip along the waist and reinforcements at either end on the iside. filled and sanded they came out reasonably well I think. Cutting out the side wiindows made replacing the glass a damn sight easier too

Onto the paint. I wanted mine to look like a typical enthusiast UK off-roader so went for a proper LR colour - Arles Blue, with a white roof. I thought about painting the wheels white, but bottled it. Black is also good








I'm pretty happy with how it performs - the lack of travel is made up for by power, even on 2s - on 3s this thing would be mental. Hoping they release CVDs and a redesigned knuckle as the lack of steering is now its major downfall. I kind of like the weight and limited suspension travel – it moves around more like a 1:1 would and makes a great trail runner. I’m sure a losi could still run rings around it in a comp crawl but this is in a different league in terms of scale looks and feel.

Here is a vid of a gentle run at Black Rocks, Derbyshire:
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/mungo1337/RC%20Cars/th_1-18Gelande180_Backwoods_Bobble_zpswpowuxfb.mp4

The disadvantages of this setup are that it requires the rear brace to be removed, but this is in two pieces so leaves a simple crossmember. I also can't now opt for more travel than allowed with the stock suspension components, and it throws a lot of weight out back - offset to some extent by the deleted chassis brace. I've shifted all the electronics under the bonnet and weighted the front wheels slightly to compensate.

I’m working up the enthusiasm to tackle lights next, then maybe an interior, or at least inner arches and some sort of floorpan in styrene. But my WIP HBX FJ70 has languished too long …

Hi there, great work on your truck. Like your snokle and jack.

Did you get around increasing the steering capability? I start to struggle with mine as well, the turning angle is too small.

[Sparks1337]

Hiya

Sorry I ran out of talent when it came to the steering. I shaved the knuckles but it didnt make much difference. Getting plenty of practice with multi point turns while I wait for rc3wd to get their act together and release cvds

Sent from my GT-I8190N using Tapatalk

[Sparks1337]

Thanks for the nice comments btw.

The jack is an abisma item: Absima AB-2320016 - Absima High Lift Jack - Black (unpainted) a bit too big for most micros but pretty close to scale for 1/18th.

I had trouble getting the snorkel mounted - it kept snapping off on every roll-over. In the end I drilled the window frame and the upper tube with a 1mm drill and pinned it with short sections of heavy duty paper clip and some superglue.

My personal favourite mod is the door mirrors - they've had threadlock applied a few times and are now stiff enough to hold position, but fold in nicely as soon as something hits them. They should last as long as the rest of the truck now, which must be a wing mirror first

[Aeronuclear]

Originally Posted by Sparks1337

Thanks for the nice comments btw.

The jack is an abisma item: Absima AB-2320016 - Absima High Lift Jack - Black (unpainted) a bit too big for most micros but pretty close to scale for 1/18th.

I had trouble getting the snorkel mounted - it kept snapping off on every roll-over. In the end I drilled the window frame and the upper tube with a 1mm drill and pinned it with short sections of heavy duty paper clip and some superglue.

My personal favourite mod is the door mirrors - they've had threadlock applied a few times and are now stiff enough to hold position, but fold in nicely as soon as something hits them. They should last as long as the rest of the truck now, which must be a wing mirror first

Nice find with the jack..

Do you know any toys 1/18 Defender that I can pinch some accessorise from? So far the cheapest one I found is the Bruder, others are too dear..

I want some side steps, and maybe roof rack

[Sparks1337]

The jac came free from a UK forum member who'd bought it thinking it was 1/10 - the ad doesn't indicate what size it is. I would never have found it otherwise

I've been looking for a toy donor too - for an interior. There is a plastic model of the D110 that is nla - chevy55 has a build thread on scale4x4. It has a roofrack and snorkel but not sure about side steps, and they are hard to come by. Plenty of die cast on ebay but they seem to go for strong money in the UK :(

[Aeronuclear]

Originally Posted by Sparks1337

The jac came free from a UK forum member who'd bought it thinking it was 1/10 - the ad doesn't indicate what size it is. I would never have found it otherwise

I've been looking for a toy donor too - for an interior. There is a plastic model of the D110 that is nla - chevy55 has a build thread on scale4x4. It has a roofrack and snorkel but not sure about side steps, and they are hard to come by. Plenty of die cast on ebay but they seem to go for strong money in the UK :(

What about the link below?

Land Rover Defender (1:16, Bruder) – These Are Not Toys!

Seems to have interior.

[Sparks1337]

Nice, but it's 1/16th :(

[Sparks1337]

Aaand here's another video! Some more serious action this time, it goes like a champ

Rock'n'Roll

[Aeronuclear]

Originally Posted by Sparks1337

Aaand here's another video! Some more serious action this time, it goes like a champ

Rock'n'Roll

Brilliant video there... Well done

By the way, have you come across any of those red winch shackle thing that is suitable for this 1/18? There is a lot of 1/10 on the net, but not smaller

[Sparks1337]

Gaz I haven't forgotten - just lost momentum. I'll get back on it sometime soon - too many projects!

Aeronuclear any accessories at this scale are hard tocome by - the jack was a lucky find.

I've never seen winch shackles at this scale. I bought a set of 1/16 heng long ones a few years back for my VMG build but it turns out 1/16 Tiger Tank shackles are about the same size as most 1/10 ones... :(

R. Billy Rob on here has made some decent looking ones out of jewellry chain lins I think - I had a go at one on my FJ70 build and found it pretty fiddly and gave up on the second one! RBR is your man for scale accessories - he makes some great looking bungees but dunno if he's selling.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by Sparks1337

So I’ve finally got round to starting a build thread for this. I needed a runner while my various builds were underway – make no mistake the baby Gelande is a lovely lovely thing, but instead of an RTR I just got another project. Deep breath, it’s a long post -

Onto the paint. I wanted mine to look like a typical enthusiast UK off-roader so went for a proper LR colour - Arles Blue, with a white roof. I thought about painting the wheels white, but bottled it. Black is also good




I'm pretty happy with how it performs - the lack of travel is made up for by power, even on 2s - on 3s this thing would be mental. Hoping they release CVDs and a redesigned knuckle as the lack of steering is now its major downfall. I kind of like the weight and limited suspension travel – it moves around more like a 1:1 would and makes a great trail runner. I’m sure a losi could still run rings around it in a comp crawl but this is in a different league in terms of scale looks and feel…

Very nicely built D90, love the panel van look and good enthusiast colors. Wish RC4WD would step it up with some better motors and gearing available though.

Those last two pics with cut boggers and the granite rocks, very nice and scale, looks like a fantastic play spot.

[Sparks1337]

Thanks natedog Fully agree on the motor and gearing. The extra reduction and 180 power totally transformed mine, I'm just hoping for cvds now. So many poor design decisions in this rig - with a bit more thought they could've really nailed it.

The location is Black Rocks in Derbyshire and only 20 mins drive for me

My first trip up there with this rig was a bit of an eye-opener - I came round a corner and all I could see were four very peachy butt cheeks - two girls in the middle of some kind of porn shoot! For some reason they weren't keen on me joining in, and I was too slow to get a photo :-(

Sent from my GT-I8190N using Tapatalk

[Natedog]

Yes, this little truck looks sooo good and is so close, really needed more pre-release thought put into the design. I'd like to see a leaf spring version too.

Wow, great that it's so nice and so close by.

LOL, this looks like a great place to crawl!

[cleanandserenesteve]

VERY nice! great work. You could always go with Sam's 1/18 axles to fix your steering issue. I know they're expensive, but nothing looks better, that's for sure! Does the ESC have auto brake feature?