Orlandoo wiring

[Jcplante]

Originally Posted by nate94gt

Did you get it yet? All you have to do is trim the ears on the servo where it's hitting

Well I did trim the servo ears. That got me a little more travel but then the servo hit the motor. I tried to shim out the servo a bit and it worked but the bolts broke thru the ears of the servo on the first battery. Now I need to find a way of mounting the servo with no ears. Im thinking servo tape.

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[Jcplante]

I got most of it done this week. It was even warm enough out today to spray some paint. I ended up chassis mounting the servo and it solved my suspension travel issues but I lost a few degrees of steering. I still need to wire up the lights and I have the 300rpm motor and metal driveshafts on the way so its not done yet.


I think it came out pretty good. The last pic next to my class 2 scx10 is for size comparison for anybody that doesnt know how small these orlandoos are

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[nate94gt]

looks great!

[Jcplante]

I managed to break and loose one of my mirrors last time I ran it. Maybe I will try to make a pair of rubber ones. Just ordered new tires and wheels for it tonight along with replacement metal driveshafts because I ordered the wrong ones last time. Does anybody have problems with it pulsing when driving? I thought maybe it was my driveshaft pinion angle so I fixed it but the problem still exists. I wonder if its a tight spot in the drivetrain somewhere. I should probably wait until the new motor arrives to pull it apart I guess

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[nate94gt]

Originally Posted by Jcplante

I managed to break and loose one of my mirrors last time I ran it. Maybe I will try to make a pair of rubber ones. Just ordered new tires and wheels for it tonight along with replacement metal driveshafts because I ordered the wrong ones last time. Does anybody have problems with it pulsing when driving? I thought maybe it was my driveshaft pinion angle so I fixed it but the problem still exists. I wonder if its a tight spot in the drivetrain somewhere. I should probably wait until the new motor arrives to pull it apart I guess

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Mine pulses as well. I don't like that

[Jcplante]

Weird. Have you tried fixing it? I have seen plenty of videos of smooth running ones. I pulled the rear axle out and checked the gear mesh. It did have a slightly tighter spot. I got it smoother spinning but it didnt change anything.

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[nate94gt]

Originally Posted by Jcplante

Weird. Have you tried fixing it? I have seen plenty of videos of smooth running ones. I pulled the rear axle out and checked the gear mesh. It did have a slightly tighter spot. I got it smoother spinning but it didnt change anything.

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I haven't tried messing with it. Maybe I'll give it a shot this weekend but it seems like a motor issue maybe. What motor do you have? I have the 300

[Jcplante]

I have the 150. I have a 300 on its way on the slow boat. I hope its a motor issue but I feel like its something else. I might swap out the esc next

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[nate94gt]

Originally Posted by Jcplante

I have the 150. I have a 300 on its way on the slow boat. I hope its a motor issue but I feel like its something else. I might swap out the esc next

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i have a spare 300 motor, but I wont install it since it seems like its probably not a motor issue. Definitely seems like more of an ESC issue causing the pulsing. I wonder if it could be a soldering issue? Like a bad connection?

[Jcplante]

Im thinking it could be a bad pinion/spur mesh. Maybe one of them is drilled off center so it has a tight spot as it goes around. I might pull it apart tonight.

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[nate94gt]

That could be. I wonder if just removing one driveshaft at a time would work as a diagnosis or if you would have to actually take the diff apart

[Matt@AMain]

Originally Posted by Jcplante

Yeah I thought $187 sounded super high for the rubicon. I got it much cheaper. Do you guys carry the 300rpm motor?

Not sure where you saw $187, but our combos are much cheaper than that!

Also, our Jeep combos are out of stock right now. But, we have more on the way, as well as parts for the Jeep and F-150. Option wheels and tires, 26mm 2+2 shafts, wheel weight rings, all the plastic replacement bits...so we will have you covered across the board!

Here are a couple pics of how I setup my wiring. I used the Tactic radio system that came with my RTR SCX10 II and its been perfect. Really nice not having the antenna. I pulled the rx board out of the case and heat shrinked it to save room. Next step will be to remove the pins from the board and solder all the wires directly to the board. that will save considerable space. As far as the LEDs, the single strand wire is super delicate, so you just have to be really careful. I tried to route mine so that they would be out of the way, but have enough slack so that if they get bumped they dont break. So far so good.

[Matt@AMain]

Originally Posted by Jcplante

Does anybody have problems with it pulsing when driving?

Mine did the same thing. I think its a combination of the metal gears needing to wear in and possibly the center shafts.

The first thing I changed was the phasing on the center shafts. The yokes were opposite of each other. You cant get them perfectly in phase, but try to get the yokes as close to lined up as possible. It didnt solve the issue, but it helped.

The other thing I noticed that could cause the issue is the ring/pinion mesh in the axles. It didnt spin very smooth. That being said, the F150 axles with the plastic gears spin much smoother.

The more I have ran it, the less it pulsed. Now it doesnt at all, so Im pretty sure its just a matter of breaking in the gears.

[nate94gt]

Originally Posted by Matt@AMain

Mine did the same thing. I think its a combination of the metal gears needing to wear in and possibly the center shafts.

The first thing I changed was the phasing on the center shafts. The yokes were opposite of each other. You cant get them perfectly in phase, but try to get the yokes as close to lined up as possible. It didnt solve the issue, but it helped.

The other thing I noticed that could cause the issue is the ring/pinion mesh in the axles. It didnt spin very smooth. That being said, the F150 axles with the plastic gears spin much smoother.

The more I have ran it, the less it pulsed. Now it doesnt at all, so Im pretty sure its just a matter of breaking in the gears.

Awesome thanks! Good job on the wiring. I can't get the LEDs to stay working for the life of me. Super aggravating

[nate94gt]

also, do any of you guys know if you need to purchase a low voltage alarm for this thing?

[Jcplante]

Not sure if the esc has low votage cutoff, but if you stop running it as soon as you notice a drop in power you should be ok. I dont use any alarms on any of my micros because of the limited space. I think the losi micro branded lipos have something built in. They dont even have a balance plug but work great.

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[Jcplante]

I think I got most of the pulsing fixed but I managed to break my servo while working on it. Now I need to decide what to do about that. Are there regular servos that fit? The losi micro size is to big I think.

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[nate94gt]

Originally Posted by Jcplante

I think I got most of the pulsing fixed but I managed to break my servo while working on it. Now I need to decide what to do about that. Are there regular servos that fit? The losi micro size is to big I think.

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What did you do to fix the pulsing?

[Jcplante]

I put the outdrives in my drill and ran it for 10 min. It seemed to wear in the gears a little then I fixed my driveshafts so they were lined up the same.

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[Jcplante]

Has anybody found other servos that fit? I think I want to get away from the low voltage type and just plug one into the rx. Im not sure if its my servo or my esc that is having issues and I dont want to order both new ones if they only last a week.

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