WPL C14

[Jay-Em]

I wouldn’t be surprised if that particular set was meant for a Fayee, or something. There are many, MANY tiiny differences between JJrc, WPL and Fayee that make swapping parts a pain in the posterior. The may lóok the same... and then one discovers that there are differences. Millimeters, but still differences.

I did get one of the metal diffs in a Fayee tracked pickup, but it took quite a bit of machining. Same for the sliders that ought to be for the C24. I had to shave quite a bit off from the couplers and sliders to make them fit the stock gearbox. Luckily most of it is just chromed brass, so shaving it with a dremel sanding bit works fine.

Once adapted, it works great though.

[Brake Weight]

Originally Posted by Jay-Em

I wouldn’t be surprised if that particular set was meant for a Fayee, or something. There are many, MANY tiiny differences between JJrc, WPL and Fayee that make swapping parts a pain in the posterior. The may lóok the same... and then one discovers that there are differences. Millimeters, but still differences.

I did get one of the metal diffs in a Fayee tracked pickup, but it took quite a bit of machining. Same for the sliders that ought to be for the C24. I had to shave quite a bit off from the couplers and sliders to make them fit the stock gearbox. Luckily most of it is just chromed brass, so shaving it with a dremel sanding bit works fine.

Once adapted, it works great though.

Yes. Turns out the $10usd axles I had ordered with brass gears was for use with tracks. I swapped the axle housings and it surprisingly fit the kit housings. But the tracked axles cross over 3 different brands and I was leary that it all would work.

[chevyfried]

If you want a decent metal geared, BB servo that should drop right in, check out the PowerHD 1711mg. It should drop right in. The horn stick out a tad bit higher than the stock WPL servo but it should be fine, even better possibly.

https://www.pololu.com/product/2144

[kincer]

Looks like a decent little servo, I'll keep it mind, I have 6 MG90s on the shelf right now though lol

[chevyfried]

Got the car all assembled, now just waiting for the steering links.

[kincer]

Originally Posted by chevyfried

Got the car all assembled, now just waiting for the steering links.

Those rims look sweet!

[chevyfried]

Originally Posted by kincer

Those rims look sweet!

Thank you. They definitely came out nice. Looks gunmetal.

Got my links in and used my lunch break to do some tinkering. I had to use bolts to hold the links in to the hub as the threads are m2.5 and the ball ends I ordered are m2, so I just longer screws and bolted the links in.

[Prox]

Originally Posted by chevyfried

I wanted to find a way to mount the ESC..

sorry for digging in past but does anyone know what is the purpouse of that little switch on this esc?

[Brake Weight]

Originally Posted by Prox

sorry for digging in past but does anyone know what is the purpouse of that little switch on this esc?

It acts as a brake. Not a drag brake, but a brake as in a double tap to go into reverse. Switched to one side and it’s forward/reverse. The other side F/B/R.

[Prox]

Originally Posted by soze

I bought this one. While the gears are fine (after filing down the inside of the axle housing a little)... the damn dogbone and knuckle isn't.

Can confirm, got the same set and noticed that while assembling, got little better when tightened the wheels but managed to bend front driveshaft (still using the plastic ones) on first test run. It just locked the wheels at full angle. Good to know it was not my rookie assebly error and will swap back to the plastic ones

[chevyfried]

Originally Posted by soze

The issue.... the damn knuckle setup is pretty useless. It has little steering angle at all when the drive cup has the notches horizontally. It only gets steering back when the dogbone notches are vertical.

My 3d printed wheels are leaving about 2mm of space so the axles are not being fully extended. Im going to either modify the design and reporint, or just throw a washer or two on there....or use the OEM plastic. I just realized I already glued the tires on, dumb mistake. I have a spare set but it was still dumb to glue before testing.

The 2 speed I got was off ebay and came with the return spring version. The servo mount had a fair amount of play/flex. Both screws holding the servo mount to the tranny case were loose and were not of the self threading type. Also looked to have some loctite or glue on the threads. Either way, I took one of the self threading screws leftover from the build and used them. It stiffened the servo mount but the servo mount still was flexing enough it would not go in to low gear (or is it high, i forget which is which). I had to take the spade looking servo horn off that came with the 2 speed and use one of the longer white arms with the last hole snipped off. Now it works flawless.

The diffs are not shimmed and with the brass upgrade gears there have been zero skipping. Even going from high to low gear chrips the tires, but doesnt skip. The metal driveshafts work excellent so far. The 2 speed is way cool! My only major gripe so far is how much it extends below the chassis. The CG is low, but at the cost of clearance.

[Prox]

Originally Posted by Prox

Can confirm, got the same set and noticed that while assembling, got little better when tightened the wheels but managed to bend front driveshaft (still using the plastic ones) on first test run. It just locked the wheels at full angle. Good to know it was not my rookie assebly error and will swap back to the plastic ones

Just FYI, I took the fron axle with said emtal upgrades out, marked the highest angle when it does not bind anymore and then replaced all the metal parts with the OEM. Measured again only to find out the steering angle is the same. The thing is there is little stump on each of the hubs that limits the max angle, there is no such thing on the metal hub so the way is to limit the angle on Tx I guess

[soze]

Originally Posted by Prox

Just FYI, I took the fron axle with said emtal upgrades out, marked the highest angle when it does not bind anymore and then replaced all the metal parts with the OEM. Measured again only to find out the steering angle is the same. The thing is there is little stump on each of the hubs that limits the max angle, there is no such thing on the metal hub so the way is to limit the angle on Tx I guess

Try this while the axle is rotating. It definitely is not the same. At least not witht he kit I bought.

[Jay-Em]

I haven’t got that upgrade set yet, ( still on the slow boat from China) but is it the dogbone pin that locks everything? Just an idea, but would it be possible to mill-out the cups a tad? Especially the slits that the dogbone pin catches in?

I remember a similar problem with the first re-re of the Kyosho Scorpion, where the rear dogbones tended to lock in a specific part of the suspension arc. And the trick was to, either get a smaller/shorter dogbone, òr mill-out the cups.



Some musings while I am at it: I am afraid people ( and especially hard-core crawler enthousiasts) tend to demand a bit too much from what is in essence a cheap-as-chips China toy, even with upgrades. Spoilt as we are with micrometer-precise parts of the top brands ( and even théy muck-up every now & then)The tolerances are nowhere near the products from Axial, Tamiya, GPM, or Vanquish, or whatever other more costly brand.

Not trying to start something, but one has to look at these little cars in a specific perspective. They áre juuuust a tad beyond toy-grade, but not much more. I kinda lìke the fact that they take a lot of after-work, hand-fitting and fiddling to function decently. But that’s just me.

I would be properly miffed if a €100.- part wouldn’t fit properly, but something that’s only 10 to 20 Euros that needs some milling and filing? Mêh..

[chevyfried]

Want to report that my initial claim of binding on the metal dogbones is incorrect. On loose terrain it works fine, it was the locked diff on my wood floor that was slowing the car down when turning at extreme angle.

Putting the car in some rocks and dirt and such ran great no binding.

[kincer]

Originally Posted by Jay-Em

I haven’t got that upgrade set yet, ( still on the slow boat from China) but is it the dogbone pin that locks everything? Just an idea, but would it be possible to mill-out the cups a tad? Especially the slits that the dogbone pin catches in?

I remember a similar problem with the first re-re of the Kyosho Scorpion, where the rear dogbones tended to lock in a specific part of the suspension arc. And the trick was to, either get a smaller/shorter dogbone, òr mill-out the cups.



Some musings while I am at it: I am afraid people ( and especially hard-core crawler enthousiasts) tend to demand a bit too much from what is in essence a cheap-as-chips China toy, even with upgrades. Spoilt as we are with micrometer-precise parts of the top brands ( and even théy muck-up every now & then)The tolerances are nowhere near the products from Axial, Tamiya, GPM, or Vanquish, or whatever other more costly brand.

Not trying to start something, but one has to look at these little cars in a specific perspective. They áre juuuust a tad beyond toy-grade, but not much more. I kinda lìke the fact that they take a lot of after-work, hand-fitting and fiddling to function decently. But that’s just me.

I would be properly miffed if a €100.- part wouldn’t fit properly, but something that’s only 10 to 20 Euros that needs some milling and filing? Mêh..

I feel the same as you about these trucks, you have to go into building one of these with an open mindset, and keep in the back of your mind that these are basically toys that we are building into a more hobby grade rig. I have really enjoyed doing the little tweaks that have greatly improved them.

[soze]

Originally Posted by Jay-Em

I haven’t got that upgrade set yet, ( still on the slow boat from China) but is it the dogbone pin that locks everything? Just an idea, but would it be possible to mill-out the cups a tad? Especially the slits that the dogbone pin catches in?

I remember a similar problem with the first re-re of the Kyosho Scorpion, where the rear dogbones tended to lock in a specific part of the suspension arc. And the trick was to, either get a smaller/shorter dogbone, òr mill-out the cups.



Some musings while I am at it: I am afraid people ( and especially hard-core crawler enthousiasts) tend to demand a bit too much from what is in essence a cheap-as-chips China toy, even with upgrades. Spoilt as we are with micrometer-precise parts of the top brands ( and even théy muck-up every now & then)The tolerances are nowhere near the products from Axial, Tamiya, GPM, or Vanquish, or whatever other more costly brand.

Not trying to start something, but one has to look at these little cars in a specific perspective. They áre juuuust a tad beyond toy-grade, but not much more. I kinda lìke the fact that they take a lot of after-work, hand-fitting and fiddling to function decently. But that’s just me.

I would be properly miffed if a €100.- part wouldn’t fit properly, but something that’s only 10 to 20 Euros that needs some milling and filing? Mêh..

I have no problem with the trucks at all. It's the aftermarket add-on parts that were made to "work" with the trucks.

In my case, the dogbone is pretty deep into the cup where during the rotation where the slot is horizontal... the dogbone tangs prevent the cup from rotating when it's at an angle.

So figuring out a way to have the dogbone not so deep into the cup should fix the issue right?

Nope, not in this case. The inside of the cup is tapered in such a way that if you pull the dogbone out a little.... it falls out, because the dogbone tangs aren't long enough.

I can try dremeling out the slots of the cup deeper, but that pretty much means dremeling out the slots all the way to the shaft.

[kincer]

There was a guy on YouTube that installed every thing but the dog bones and drive cups for that same reason, he installed most of the bearings as well, I'm going to have to rewatch it.

[soze]

Originally Posted by kincer

There was a guy on YouTube that installed every thing but the dog bones and drive cups for that same reason, he installed most of the bearings as well, I'm going to have to rewatch it.

Put the link here if you find it. I'd like to see what he did as well.

[chevyfried]

Got my link kit in. I honestly despise screwdriver hardware. Give me hex. I guess the ball ends and turnbuckles are worth the money, although the threads on the turnbuckles are the same rotation so basically its all thread not a true turnbuckle.

Bag:



Dumped out: