WPL C14

[CD02]

My WPL will be down again for a couple of months while i wait for a new transmission to arrive :P So in the meantime I might as well rebuild and/or paint it. I was also curious to see if I could build a solid rear axle drag car with a rear WPL axle. I think it would be fun and challenging enough. I just need a donor chassis.

[Jay-Em]

Found-out something interesting afa the “dogbone-horror” goes.

The shafts that are in the complete bb&dogbone set, are too long at the ends (or the bones not drilled deep enough for the shaft)
I was scratching my head why the front wheels hopped like mad at steep steering angles, loosened, refit oodles of times. Then I noticed there was a space in the axle-housings to push the collar of the bones ( the part where the grub-screwgoes) in deeper.... if it wasn’t for that bloody too long shaft....

A quick cut of 0.5mm and the bones fell nicely into a milled-out looking piece of the axle-housings jùst in front of the outer bearings. lo’ and behold. It now steers!! Not as extreme as with cvd’s, but good enough for me.

Just something to look over when wrestling with those cursed dogbones.

[CD02]

Originally Posted by Jay-Em

Found-out something interesting afa the “dogbone-horror” goes.

The shafts that are in the complete bb&dogbone set, are too long at the ends (or the bones not drilled deep enough for the shaft)
I was scratching my head why the front wheels hopped like mad at steep steering angles, loosened, refit oodles of times. Then I noticed there was a space in the axle-housings to push the collar of the bones ( the part where the grub-screwgoes) in deeper.... if it wasn’t for that bloody too long shaft....

A quick cut of 0.5mm and the bones fell nicely into a milled-out looking piece of the axle-housings jùst in front of the outer bearings. lo’ and behold. It now steers!! Not as extreme as with cvd’s, but good enough for me.

Just something to look over when wrestling with those cursed dogbones.

I might just end up getting those cheap CVD's for like $13 on eBay. I am ordering a C24 so I can go with two different setups. I converted my c14 to a Ford Raptor. I am waiting on the gear box and it'll be running.

I also made some videos with my c14 while it was still a Toyota: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcaGOCWtRF8

[JerryIRacer]

My C24 has been just put back together after 4 weeks of sitting disassembled on the bench. I am scrapping plans of converting it to leaf springs. They are simply not smooth and precise enough. Also I cant find suitable oil filled shocks.

You guys were right about my metal driveshafts. One of the grub screws failed making it FWD... The other one I had to drill out as allen wrench stripped it.

I have ordered some metal differential parts again. Here is a pack I went with:
Metal-Universal-Joint-Steering-Drive-Shaft-for-MN-D90-D91-WPL-B14-B24-B16-C14
It is a good set. It bolts into plastic housings, it includes metal knuckles, all bearings, extra screws to cover all situations. Very nice. Improves turning radius and spins so freely that it takes time to wind down after throttle release.

BTW I am thinking about getting rid of Gaz. I am not happy with it stock, I am not impressed by recommended upgraded leafs, dual wheels are sticking out, there is no good way to run wiring. I just cant get warm to it...

[Jay-Em]

Ooff.. that metal set looks fantastic. I might go the same route. Currently building ( or, rather re-building) the Willy’s Jeep, and it could do with a proper set of metal innards.

Everything fitted without hiccups? No hand-fitting or dremeling needed?

[CD02]

I just finished the modifications to my C14. I will miss the Toyota body, but I can put it on my C24 if I really want to. I built it for my son to drive when we go out to the park or something. I figured it was a great first RC. I made a video too. I basically swapped the body with a Ford Raptor. I fused the two chassis together and it looks pretty good.

Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPJy...ature=youtu.be

[CD02]

I just found a new metal gear gearbox for WPL!!! It's available for pre-order now. I think it's another 2 speed too!

Link: https://www.banggood.com/URUAV-WPL-1...r_warehouse=CN

[JerryIRacer]

Originally Posted by Jay-Em

Ooff.. that metal set looks fantastic. I might go the same route. Currently building ( or, rather re-building) the Willy’s Jeep, and it could do with a proper set of metal innards.

Everything fitted without hiccups? No hand-fitting or dremeling needed?

There was one. Wheel bearings were not fitting over spindles. But they are aluminum so spinning them while wrapped in fine sand paper was enough. There is no manual, not even a diagram so it takes few tries to get pars in right order. I recommend assembling it once then taking it apart and using thread locker on final assembly.

[JerryIRacer]

Originally Posted by CD02

I just found a new metal gear gearbox for WPL!!! It's available for pre-order now. I think it's another 2 speed too!

Link: https://www.banggood.com/URUAV-WPL-1...r_warehouse=CN

I think it is metal gear set for existing 2 speeds. That transparent case has the same shape

[CD02]

Originally Posted by JerryIRacer

I think it is metal gear set for existing 2 speeds. That transparent case has the same shape

That makes sense as they put "Metal gear set, for speed change gear box" This actually made me consider getting the 2 speed over the full metal gearbox

[JerryIRacer]

Some new gearboxes are being released into the wild.
Like this one full metal 2 speed. Unfortunately it is the same layout most likely interfering with C14/C24 suspension links. One can dream about relocating motor under the hood and having compact 2 speed in original toyota transmission location and small transfer case right in the middle of the chassis.
Some bits are available but good compact 2 speed is not.
Motor Relocating kit

[TheSubaruJunkie]

Looks like WPL just made the new C34 gearbox/motor available seperately:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/WPL-...cd7c3b8bd2b520

[JSterrett]

Originally Posted by TheSubaruJunkie

Looks like WPL just made the new C34 gearbox/motor available seperately:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/WPL-...cd7c3b8bd2b520

That looks like a pretty good option to me. Might even be a good start to a forward motor setup also... Might have to buy one and try and CAD something up...

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[TheSubaruJunkie]

Originally Posted by JSterrett

That looks like a pretty good option to me. Might even be a good start to a forward motor setup also... Might have to buy one and try and CAD something up...

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Yeah I will be waiting for the price to drop before I order mine. I might get the whole C34 metal kit so I can also get the metal axles, shafts, links and updated chassis.

[CD02]

Originally Posted by JerryIRacer

Some new gearboxes are being released into the wild.
Like this one full metal 2 speed. Unfortunately it is the same layout most likely interfering with C14/C24 suspension links. One can dream about relocating motor under the hood and having compact 2 speed in original toyota transmission location and small transfer case right in the middle of the chassis.
Some bits are available but good compact 2 speed is not.
Motor Relocating kit

So basically the more professional version of what this guy did, except for the 2 speed bit. It looks like you can just get a WLtoys A959 motor mount instead of buying that whole metal gearbox

link: https://youtu.be/6IotrtmTkos

[JerryIRacer]

Some novel ideas in that video. I like the way he hacks
Thanks for sharing

[JerryIRacer]

I have crossed to the dark side.




Sure it is fast but I am missing low throttle control. Hopefully I will be able to produce some kind of video before it explodes.

I had it apart so many times that screws fail to grab any more. I am thinking about migrating all my good parts into a new kit.

[JerryIRacer]

This is early mock up showing ESC placement. There is still room for a fan I had to cut away good part of servo/electronics tray and completely weakened it up in the process. Structural hot glue is what keeps it from falling apart.

[CD02]

Originally Posted by JerryIRacer

I have crossed to the dark side.




Sure it is fast but I am missing low throttle control. Hopefully I will be able to produce some kind of video before it explodes.

I had it apart so many times that screws fail to grab any more. I am thinking about migrating all my good parts into a new kit.

You know, that was my plan for my C24 when I get one. I ordered it off of banggood (US warehouse) and it was on backorder. So I cancelled it hoping to find it somewhere else with faster shipping. In the meantime, my C14 Raptor is down, The rear driveshaft snapped. I guess that big Ford was just too much, It'll be a while til I get it working anyways. I might buy a C24 or C34 soon though.

Also, be careful with those ESCs around water, it wouldn't hurt to take it apart and give it a quick coat of conformal coating.

[JerryIRacer]

Originally Posted by CD02

You know, that was my plan for my C24 when I get one. I ordered it off of banggood (US warehouse) and it was on backorder. So I cancelled it hoping to find it somewhere else with faster shipping. In the meantime, my C14 Raptor is down, The rear driveshaft snapped. I guess that big Ford was just too much, It'll be a while til I get it working anyways. I might buy a C24 or C34 soon though.

Also, be careful with those ESCs around water, it wouldn't hurt to take it apart and give it a quick coat of conformal coating.

Jury is still out, drive train did not explode yet, but its min speed in low gear is way too fast and it jerks forward from a stand still. I am yet to try changing battery from 3s to 2s to check if it becomes tame enough. In high gear I could not hold full throttle for more than split second, and did not get it to top speed yet. Problem is, even with reduced bump steer, there is enough steering angle change to exceed trucks ability to stay wheels down. At high speeds slight suspension compression can initiate rollover. I should have picked up lower kV motor and different ESC. 2440 did not fit without cutting into electronics tray. 2445 3000kV would take additional 5mm probably resting against servos back.
I dont know if I want to keep experimenting... but if any one has any suggestions on how to slow it down a bit and make it more controllable and low speeds I would really appreciate some know how...

Just for the record, I have bought ESC and motor separately and picked up programmer card at the same time. Those motors are usually bundled with 25A ESC and lower kV are safe only with 2s batteries. My intention was to use it with 3s so beefier ESC seemed a reasonable choice. Programming it to soft start and min neutral range was not enough of improvement.

I know a short video would be helpful to illustrate what am I rambling about. I hope to find some time this weekend.

Water resistance is not exactly top priority yet...