Kincer's mini Yota

[Brake Weight]

Originally Posted by kincer

Not sure if I didn't charge the included lipo long enough or not, it says charge for 120min plugged into usb of computer with the included usb cable, I used a phone charger for about 30min. Still it was browning out the first minute in the rocks with the throttle on and the servo trying to turn, there would have been enough of a charge you would think though. Doesn't matter I'll be changing all that out, just was curious to see what it would do stock. I'm still happy with it, I've watched enough videos to see it can be made into a capable little rig.

I use a little eFlite 2s charger for my 250mAh lipo batteries. $30 at the most and it only uses the balance plug to charge. Simple actually. But if you use larger mAh batts then it may not be enough.

Originally Posted by kincer

Thanks for the link!

Not sure as to what all thread I'm gonna use, any thoughts?

I made links once for some Losi Mini axles. They used m2 hardware so I got the m2 ball ends. If I remember right I used 2mm stainless rod cut to length. Then used some wire cutters and scored the ends of the rod that’ll go into the ball ends. Then screwed an m2 bolt into the plastic ends to create some semblance of threads. Then wick some superglue down into the ball end and slide the rod in. I made a jig with some m2 bolts through some thin plywood so all the links were identical. Sounds complicated but after you make one or two it’s a snap.

[kincer]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

I use a little eFlite 2s charger for my 250mAh lipo batteries. $30 at the most and it only uses the balance plug to charge. Simple actually. But if you use larger mAh batts then it may not be enough.





I made links once for some Losi Mini axles. They used m2 hardware so I got the m2 ball ends. If I remember right I used 2mm stainless rod cut to length. Then used some wire cutters and scored the ends of the rod that’ll go into the ball ends. Then screwed an m2 bolt into the plastic ends to create some semblance of threads. Then wick some superglue down into the ball end and slide the rod in. I made a jig with some m2 bolts through some thin plywood so all the links were identical. Sounds complicated but after you make one or two it’s a snap.

I figured I'd ask sounds like a dumb question but on the 1/10 stuff I use Traxxas Revo rod ends and stainless 8-32 all thread, I run a 8-32 tap only in a couple threads into the rod end just to get them started then they thread the rest of way on themselves and are stout.

[Brake Weight]

Originally Posted by kincer

I figured I'd ask sounds like a dumb question but on the 1/10 stuff I use Traxxas Revo rod ends and stainless 8-32 all thread, I run a 8-32 tap only in a couple threads into the rod end just to get them started then they thread the rest of way on themselves and are stout.

Unless you’re bashing hard or take a big tumble the superglue should hold for a while. 2 part epoxy will do. Small batch some 5 minute kind and it may wick in. The quick set starts out more fluid than the long set.

[kincer]

Definitely not bashing these lol, just gonna try to maximize it's capabilities which right now aren't much lol

[kincer]

[QUOTE=Brake Weight;5891638]I use a little eFlite 2s charger for my 250mAh lipo batteries. $30 at the most and it only uses the balance plug to charge. Simple actually. But if you use larger mAh batts then it may not be enough

I may use that pack for my flysky radio, I got a couple 800mah 2s that fit great in the truck. The one that came with it is a AA lipo.

[chevyfried]

[QUOTE=kincer;5891645]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

I use a little eFlite 2s charger for my 250mAh lipo batteries. $30 at the most and it only uses the balance plug to charge. Simple actually. But if you use larger mAh batts then it may not be enough

I may use that pack for my flysky radio, I got a couple 800mah 2s that fit great in the truck. The one that came with it is a AA lipo.

I was able to get a B6 mini charger from Aliexpress for $16, I found one for $20 here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/B6-M...832332959.html

It works awesome. I have Turnigy batteries for cars that range from 2s 5000mah (Tamiya Lunhbox), 2s 1000mah (thats for rally car, standium truck and now the WLPs) and then my Flysky GT2 takes a 3s 600mah. I was tired of my slow HK charger so when I saw this on sale I jumped on it. It does warm up quite a bit so I added a 20mm 12v fan and now it runs very cool, even charging the 5000mah at 2amps. Also, my dinky charger did not have a storage setting so all my batteries were puffing up from improper handling.

I too was looking at just buying the heim joints and making my own links with some m2 all thread. The link kit is only $10 though, the m2 heim joints on ebay that ship from the US are $4 for 10 and you need 16, so that's $8 right there, then the all thread you are over $10 easy.

[kincer]

[QUOTE=chevyfried;5891652]

Originally Posted by kincer

I was able to get a B6 mini charger from Aliexpress for $16, I found one for $20 here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/B6-M...832332959.html

It works awesome. I have Turnigy batteries for cars that range from 2s 5000mah (Tamiya Lunhbox), 2s 1000mah (thats for rally car, standium truck and now the WLPs) and then my Flysky GT2 takes a 3s 600mah. I was tired of my slow HK charger so when I saw this on sale I jumped on it. It does warm up quite a bit so I added a 20mm 12v fan and now it runs very cool, even charging the 5000mah at 2amps. Also, my dinky charger did not have a storage setting so all my batteries were puffing up from improper handling.

I too was looking at just buying the heim joints and making my own links with some m2 all thread. The link kit is only $10 though, the m2 heim joints on ebay that ship from the US are $4 for 10 and you need 16, so that's $8 right there, then the all thread you are over $10 easy.

I'm actually good with chargers, I have two of the imax b6 chargers but the one you linked may be nice to have as well. As far as the links go I haven't done the math yet and I'm betting your right it's probably cheaper to get them already made but we will see.

[kincer]

Well I pulled the trigger on upgrades got 2 sets of steel driveshafts, 2spd gearbox for one truck and dual n30 motor setup for the other, 2 sets of links that come with aluminum trusses, one set of soft tires for the rtr, kit comes with them, and two axle upgrade kits with bearings, steel ring and pinion and steering links. I used the ebay coupon for %15 off toys and hobbies. Now I'll wait lol, gonna start tearing down first truck tonight for paint.

Almost forgot 2 30 amp esc's too

[kincer]

Originally Posted by chevyfried

Now the waiting begins...

Yeah it'll be mailbox roulette, everday when I stop at the mailbox I'll be opening it with hope lol

[chevyfried]

Originally Posted by kincer

Yeah it'll be mailbox roulette, everday when I stop at the mailbox I'll be opening it with hope lol

You can setup the 17track app on your phone that will alert you of any tracking changes.

All that I have left now is the 2speed which is in the US but has not cleared customs yet I believe, it is not in the USPS system. The shocks I just ordered so they will be a while, they havent even shipped yet.

[Jay-Em]

Originally Posted by kincer

Thanks for the link!

Not sure as to what all thread I'm gonna use, any thoughts?

I'd say that ordinary 2mm threaded rod would be strong enough without going the stainless steel, or spring steel route. We're only talking a couple of cm here, on a very light truck. 3mm would work too, and is maybe easier to get Your hands on. A bit overkill, though.

You could also use a trick I successfully used -with bigger allthread, obviously- on all my monstertrucks, like my Juggernaut2 : take the (2mm) threaded rod, and shove a little cut-to-size thick-walled aluminium pipe with a 2, or 3mm inner bore over it. Brass would work also, with the added bonus of a bit more weight down low. Screw-on Your ball-ends, voila. Fancy metal links. I get the alu pipe and allthread at my local hobbyshop for about €6 for a meter of both.

Looks great too. Kind of a 'poor man's full aluminium links'

Just an idea..

[kincer]

I sleeve all my 1/10 scale links but don't think these will need sleeved, I'm thinking about just covering the links with black shrink tube to keep the chassis looking plain and realistic as possible.

[Jay-Em]

For black sleeves I got some carbon fiber hollow rods used in kites. Ran into a sale of them, several sizes. Great stuff, light, strong. Cutting them is no fun though *koff koff* :P But yeah.. shrinktube. Good idea. Never thought of that. *slaps forehead*

[chevyfried]

Originally Posted by Jay-Em

For black sleeves I got some carbon fiber hollow rods used in kites. Ran into a sale of them, several sizes. Great stuff, light, strong. Cutting them is no fun though *koff koff* :P But yeah.. shrinktube. Good idea. Never thought of that. *slaps forehead*

Yes you do not want to breath the dust from cutting carbon

[kincer]

It seems I have found a way to make the stock shocks less bouncy, first as I mentioned earlier I cut off the tight coils on one end of the internal spring, now I've found if you fill the spring with grease and work it up and down til all the excess works out the shock is a lot smoother and less bouncy. This should do the trick until I find something that works better. The only bummer is I broke one of the tabs off the shock cap, it still stays on with one though. If anyone has an extra they don't need shoot me a pm please.

[kincer]

So I read somewhere that there didn't seem to be enough room for a panhard bar, I think there is.......

[kincer]

Here's a half assed mock up but it works!

[Jay-Em]

Ah. Now it's getting interesting.

Have to wait for a bit, though, because I killed the axle gears with the 130 from the JJrc MAN Kat. The MAN now has the 180 motor, and is way better with it. When it ran, the yota went like a scalded cat, though. Plenty power in that tiny 130. Shame that the yota's gears didn't like all that speed and asploded themselves in protest..

By the by, I changed the upper links in the rear for some 3mm allthread and Tamiya rod ends and ballstuds ( the ones Tamiya always uses for their steering) so I could lengthen them to make the angle of the driveshaft less acute. Works like a charm! No more hopping rear axle, because the cross-coupling ( ? ) doesn't jump around anymore.

Now the waiting is for the metal gears. According to Banggood the 21st at my door. p.p.p.p.patience.., not my strongest trait..

[kincer]

Originally Posted by Jay-Em

Ah. Now it's getting interesting.

Have to wait for a bit, though, because I killed the axle gears with the 130 from the JJrc MAN Kat. The MAN now has the 180 motor, and is way better with it. When it ran, the yota went like a scalded cat, though. Plenty power in that tiny 130. Shame that the yota's gears didn't like all that speed and asploded themselves in protest..

By the by, I changed the upper links in the rear for some 3mm allthread and Tamiya rod ends and ballstuds ( the ones Tamiya always uses for their steering) so I could lengthen them to make the angle of the driveshaft less acute. Works like a charm! No more hopping rear axle, because the cross-coupling ( ? ) doesn't jump around anymore.

Now the waiting is for the metal gears. According to Banggood the 21st at my door. p.p.p.p.patience.., not my strongest trait..

It took me about an hour to fab up those brackets from aluminum C channel, I need to take some more measurements and order up some hardware, I think this is going to work pretty good

[kincer]

My M2 rod ends should be here tomorrow so I can setup the proper length, I'll build a steering link too and run it over to the right side of the truck. I'm going to see how it works with servo mounted in the stock location if I'm not happy with that I'm going to see if there's room to stand it up like most other cms setups.