WPL C14 C24 Yota Bumpsteer SOLVED

[kincer]

Originally Posted by chevyfried

I am assembling the car on Tuesday so then I will do a final measurement with my measury thing and print a test set on wednesday when I am back in my office.



You think it's better to have the stock 180 in there or put in the N20 double set?

I have yet to run anything but the stock 130 that came in rtr that I have and only ran that about five minutes cause the steering was so horrible, I've watched a ton of videos on these things and the 180 doesn't seem too bad for general trail running and light climbing, decent speed and so forth, the dual motor setup seems slow but very torquey, so I'd say think about how you wanna run it. I've got the dual N30's on the way and my 2spd with 370 came yesterday. The kit coming will have the 180 and I'm gonna order the metal geared trans with the 370 and try them all. I look at this way you can change it out rather quickly anyhow.

[kincer]

UPDATE

I did a little experiment, I ordered the metal upgrade steering links to see if the bump steer is minimized with these links and it is dramatically. I ordered the style that runs from the servo to the passenger side and it works excellent. I've seen on YouTube that the other upgraded links that still go to drivers side also dramatically reduce it as well. I've removed my Panhard setup to try this and will probably just leave it off. Yes it works but the upgraded links work just as well with less hassle. So you have 3 choices, the stock plastic link is junk it's what causes the bad bump steer.

[soze]

Originally Posted by kincer

UPDATE

I did a little experiment, I ordered the metal upgrade steering links to see if the bump steer is minimized with these links and it is dramatically. I ordered the style that runs from the servo to the passenger side and it works excellent. I've seen on YouTube that the other upgraded links that still go to drivers side also dramatically reduce it as well. I've removed my Panhard setup to try this and will probably just leave it off. Yes it works but the upgraded links work just as well with less hassle. So you have 3 choices, the stock plastic link is junk it's what causes the bad bump steer.

Link to links?

[kincer]

Originally Posted by soze

Link to links?

Here you go

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F123217890102

I haven't tried this one but seems to work just as well on YouTube, I like the looks of first one better though.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F352510891740

[chevyfried]

Originally Posted by kincer

UPDATE

I did a little experiment, I ordered the metal upgrade steering links to see if the bump steer is minimized with these links and it is dramatically. I ordered the style that runs from the servo to the passenger side and it works excellent. I've seen on YouTube that the other upgraded links that still go to drivers side also dramatically reduce it as well. I've removed my Panhard setup to try this and will probably just leave it off. Yes it works but the upgraded links work just as well with less hassle. So you have 3 choices, the stock plastic link is junk it's what causes the bad bump steer.

I was just going to ask you this question. I would think the longer link to the passenger side would lessen the difference in wheels angle when you turn helping with oversteer. But I am far from a geometric genius...

Sorry to hear you took off the panhard. That was some awesome work.

[kincer]

Originally Posted by chevyfried

I was just going to ask you this question. I would think the longer link to the passenger side would lessen the difference in wheels angle when you turn helping with oversteer. But I am far from a geometric genius...



Sorry to hear you took off the panhard. That was some awesome work.

Thanks, I enjoyed building the panhard setup and it works great, but even just getting some M2 all thread and some M2 rod ends and running it from the servo to the passenger side works just as well without all the hassle. There are a couple little nubs on the stock plastic knuckles that I cut off and got a couple more degrees of steering out of it as well. Like I said I ran it stock the other day just the chassis on 3s and it steers great and I couldn't break it. Full throttle to reverse back and forth left and right, skidding stops with the drag break. The stock 130 motor smelled a little funny but kept going.

[Jay-Em]

Tried it. Works! In all its simplicity, it works great. Thnx!

Though, the fancy panhard is, from a technical standpoint, much more interesting looking. Will try that with the next kit. Still have the Ural to build, and the second MAN K1 to modify.

The JJrc MAN is quite a bit more sturdy in the drive-line apartment than the WPL trucks, I discovered. Larger pitch gears, for starters. Working, fully closed diffs that keep 50000cps diff-fluid pretty good. Shafts and couplers feel sturdier too. Haven’t snapped one yet despite being rather heavy with a Turnigy full lighting and sound kit, plus running it hard with a 180 motor on 2s. Something that killed the WPL C24 spools in a couple of minutes.

[kincer]

Originally Posted by Jay-Em

Tried it. Works! In all its simplicity, it works great. Thnx!

Though, the fancy panhard is, from a technical standpoint, much more interesting looking. Will try that with the next kit. Still have the Ural to build, and the second MAN K1 to modify.

The JJrc MAN is quite a bit more sturdy in the drive-line apartment than the WPL trucks, I discovered. Larger pitch gears, for starters. Working, fully closed diffs that keep 50000cps diff-fluid pretty good. Shafts and couplers feel sturdier too. Haven’t snapped one yet despite being rather heavy with a Turnigy full lighting and sound kit, plus running it hard with a 180 motor on 2s. Something that killed the WPL C24 spools in a couple of minutes.

No problem, for what these trucks are I just don't see the need to build a panhard and the brackets when something much easier works, I did the panhard to see if it would work and for the challenge of it. I used to build my own for the first gen scx10 but they needed it if you wanted to do a chassis mounted servo. These little trucks are just something to tinker around with, I plan on writing a new thread later on about what are must have things for these trucks and what you don't need to waste your money on but that will be a few months away after I really test them out.

[CD02]

Originally Posted by kincer

No problem, for what these trucks are I just don't see the need to build a panhard and the brackets when something much easier works, I did the panhard to see if it would work and for the challenge of it. I used to build my own for the first gen scx10 but they needed it if you wanted to do a chassis mounted servo. These little trucks are just something to tinker around with, I plan on writing a new thread later on about what are must have things for these trucks and what you don't need to waste your money on but that will be a few months away after I really test them out.

I kind of want to attempt the mounting style used on the TRX4. Not sure what it's called but it looks pretty reliable.

[kincer]

Originally Posted by CD02

I kind of want to attempt the mounting style used on the TRX4. Not sure what it's called but it looks pretty reliable.

That was exactly what I did here in this thread and it works but the upgraded link works just as well without all the fab work and hassle. The only difference is how the servo is sitting.

[CD02]

Originally Posted by kincer

That was exactly what I did here in this thread and it works but the upgraded link works just as well without all the fab work and hassle. The only difference is how the servo is sitting.

Yeah I was talking about the servo position. all you really need to do is give it a bit of a trim with a dremel. And you will also have a good mounting point for the servo. You can secure it with screws and m2 lock nut's. No more hot glue is needed. Not sure if it will stop the bump steer though. You would have to ditch the servo arm for one without the 90 degree twist so both holes are facing the same side. I am quite willing to try this method out.

[kincer]

Originally Posted by CD02

Yeah I was talking about the servo position. all you really need to do is give it a bit of a trim with a dremel. And you will also have a good mounting point for the servo. You can secure it with screws and m2 lock nut's. No more hot glue is needed. Not sure if it will stop the bump steer though. You would have to ditch the servo arm for one without the 90 degree twist so both holes are facing the same side. I am quite willing to try this method out.

Sounds like a giant hassle to me when all you need is one link with ball ends from the servo to the passenger side of the truck, the bump steer is so much improved this way and it's super easy. I spent a bunch of time fabbing up a panhard and brackets when all it really needed was the better link.

[kincer]

Originally Posted by CD02

Yeah I was talking about the servo position. all you really need to do is give it a bit of a trim with a dremel. And you will also have a good mounting point for the servo. You can secure it with screws and m2 lock nut's. No more hot glue is needed. Not sure if it will stop the bump steer though. You would have to ditch the servo arm for one without the 90 degree twist so both holes are facing the same side. I am quite willing to try this method out.

Also on the new ones servos are held in place with a plate and screws, these plates are available for the old ones as well.

[CD02]

Originally Posted by kincer

Also on the new ones servos are held in place with a plate and screws, these plates are available for the old ones as well.

So I probably won't have to print a lot of these

Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3318831

[kincer]

Originally Posted by CD02

So I probably won't have to print a lot of these

Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3318831

Actually those are better, the WPL ones are just flat and you have to use two sided tape to hold the esc down.

[CD02]

Originally Posted by kincer

Actually those are better, the WPL ones are just flat and you have to use two sided tape to hold the esc down.

I have also seen people use the longer spare servo horn to hold the servo down as well

[CD02]

So I found a great fix to eliminate bump-steer on the C-14 and C-24. All you need is some form of fire (trust me) and a longer screw. What you need to do is bend the servo arm straight and put both steering linkages to to top of the steering hubs.

Video link: https://youtu.be/9F5L1Wq2dsM?list=PL...LnWs9xs7&t=260