New Axial scx 24 deadbolt

[high plains drifter]

Any opinions on which bead-lock bolts looks better. I kinda like the zinc hexes as opposed to the stainless buttons but not sure.




Also found some things while digging thru my Lego parts bin. Not sure if I'll use any of it but the steering wheel and side-view mirrors actually look pretty legit imo. I was also thinking of using the red lenses for the taillights... push them out from the inside then e6000 in place and voila... ready for led's.




And while I'm babbling about Legos lol, I might as well post a pic of my new driver...

[Gtjoshua]

I like it all and would go with the hex bolts!

[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by high plains drifter

Any opinions on which bead-lock bolts looks better. I kinda like the zinc hexes as opposed to the stainless buttons but not sure.




Also found some things while digging thru my Lego parts bin. Not sure if I'll use any of it but the steering wheel and side-view mirrors actually look pretty legit imo. I was also thinking of using the red lenses for the taillights... push them out from the inside then e6000 in place and voila... ready for led's.




And while I'm babbling about Legos lol, I might as well post a pic of my new driver...

Do those RC4WD rage wheels fit the SCX24 without the beadlock bolts hitting the C hub on the inside of the wheel?

[high plains drifter]

Just barely but yes... they clear. Maybe 1.35-1.55 mm of room. Hard to get my calipers in there to get a solid reading.

[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by high plains drifter

Just barely but yes... they clear. Maybe 1.35-1.55 mm of room. Hard to get my calipers in there to get a solid reading.

Thank you. I found that redcat sumo plastic beadlocks DO NOT fit. Which shocked me a little since they fit every other micro I have. So thank you for confirming the RAGE beadlocks DO fit.

[spoo76]

A thicker wheel hex would help clearance in some xas so

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[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by spoo76

A thicker wheel hex would help clearance in some xas so

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I tried the ones off my RGT. But it didnt leave my wheel nut enough thread to fully lock in. I guess I could sand them down 1mm though...

[spoo76]

Hmm, the wheels must be thicker than i remember. I haven't tried my steel wheels but my all my other wheels and beadlocks fit with RGT hexes. Maybe I'll try them tonight

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[Gtjoshua]

So I’ve installed the mil stone 4 brass spacers and WOW what a difference! Between those and the 1 oz. of bb’s in the wheels this thing is a spider now. I will say though, a stronger servo wouldn’t be a bad idea with the extra weight and width it’s slinging. The steering tends to stall out when sitting still a little more but the motor doesn’t seem to be affected much if at all by the extra weight. The vehicle is now 10.1 oz. as opposed to the 8.1 it was brand new, and all additional is unsprung!

https://www.instagram.com/p/ByVmugdAR-Q/



As an FYI: I keep photo and video records of all my testing and adventures on Instagram @line1rc if you’de like to keep up with my findings.

[spoo76]

I'm sure the extra weight doesn't help, but I think the increased scrub radius and weak servo saver hurt performance more.

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[HumboldtEF]

The stock wheels look like they're 1.6-1.7mm thick at the wheel nut. I also had very little thread left for mounting the RC4WD stamped steel wheels because they're thicker there.

[Gtjoshua]

Originally Posted by spoo76

I'm sure the extra weight doesn't help, but I think the increased scrub radius and weak servo saver hurt performance more.

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Countryaire , the unsprung weight helps a TON! There is now 25% more weight down low, not to mention the 12mm in extra width that makes this thing wayyyy less tipsy. And like I said, the motor doesn’t seem to mind it at all. The servo does its job still but I’ll take the slight decrease in steering performance over significant more stability and sure footedness any day!

[spoo76]

No, i meant it doesn't help with the small servo. I know the weight helps stability. I've posted about what a dramatic difference it made with milstones and hot racing aluminum wheels.

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[Gtjoshua]

Originally Posted by spoo76

No, i meant it doesn't help with the small servo. I know the weight helps stability. I've posted about what a dramatic difference it made with milstones and hot racing aluminum wheels.

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That’s right, my bad! Lol I misunderstood what you were talking about. I’d like to add the aluminum wheels as well but after adding the milestones I’m I am a little hesitant.

[spoo76]

I wouldn't say both are necessary. I normally don't like to over do it with weight especially rotating weight, but on scale Micros we're limited in weight options that are hidden. Other than being so hard on the tiny servo and servo saver I'd say the weight doesn't have much down side here. I really like how stable it is and how well the wheels stay planted. I'll soon remove the hex widener weights to decrease my steering scrub. I'm just going to go with weighted plastic or steel wheels.

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[spoo76]

IMO if you have them at least try them. they perform well and make a noticeable difference you can always easily remove them and put them on another rig

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[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by spoo76

IMO if you have them at least try them. they perform well and make a noticeable difference you can always easily remove them and put them on another rig

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Spoo76,

Do you know if the redcat version he also sells fits the HBX? The HBX has a bigger axle diameter. The losi versions barrel nuts will not go over the HBX axle.

[spoo76]

HBX should be the same as Redcat Sumo

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[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by spoo76

HBX should be the same as Redcat Sumo

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tyvm again.

[boldfin]

I purchased a set of the MIL STONE 4 brass wheel spacers, and they came in today. Unfortunately, they won't work with my RC4WD stamped steel beadlock wheels on my SCX24. The hole in the RC4WD wheel hub is not large enough to allow the barrel nut to pass through and thread on to the axle stub. I'm guessing I could probably just drill the hubs out a little, but haven't tried it yet.

Also tried to mount the brass wheel spacers on my Hobby Plus CR-24, which now has stock wheels on it again, so it could use some weight down low. But the axle stubs on the CR-24 are larger than on the Axial SCX24, and the barrel nuts won't thread on to the CR-24 axle stubs.