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-   -   Whittling on a SCX24 (http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/micro-scale-rigs/609167-whittling-scx24.html)

HumboldtEF 06-02-2019 10:16 PM

Whittling on a SCX24
 
I've been having fun with the SCX24, its my first mini but it seems pretty good out of the box. Of course having springs and no shocks will make it bouncy which it is, and it will also unload the suspension easily on a side hill or at the tipping point on a steep slope. But that comes with the territory I suppose and its still fun.


First mod was to try some bigger tires. There was some minor body rub issues so I scrapped that idea.


https://i.imgur.com/M90SBtwl.jpg


Back to reality I did mount up some RC4WD MT/R's on RC4WD beadlocks and I've always disliked their wheels for being so fiddly but there just aren't many other options.


I ended up mounting up one tire without issue but the rest of the wheels were stripping out as I was trying to tighten the first screws. They just dont give you screws long enough to get it started easily, I really struggled and got pissed even broke an nice 1.5mm MIP. The threads would grab for a second and then strip out, really frustrating! These wheels use a M 1.5 screw or something small that I just dont have on hand otherwise I'd have just grabbed some longer screws. They really should provide at least 2 longer screws bare minimum.

One other tip, I took the wheel hubs and put a tiny bit of loctite between the hub and the wheel where they mate, with a few screws keeping it aligned and tight. I let these dry and and harden so the hub would stay put, otherwise with these loose it adds an extra level of complexity to assembling the wheels that I'd prefer not to deal with.

So a day later I rounded up some washers and put a few slots in one to make a clamp. Its a 2.5mm screw run through one half of the wheel to the other, various sized washers and a nut. Getting 2 of the hub screws started before fully tightening the clamp helps to keep the bolt holes aligned.



https://i.imgur.com/mOu4iDGl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/R07FYPcl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zCvgCiXl.jpg





I whittled down the roll cage to just the basic structure (and removed the bumper lights)
https://i.imgur.com/08B8lAHl.jpg

removed the light bar and 3D printed a simple straight bar. I added 2 holes in the bar so I could stash the body pins there.


https://i.imgur.com/dtJJW2dl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yxpcMQkl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7ZYRmScl.jpg


I designed up a new rear hinge that allows the body to flip back farther and lowers the body by 4.5mm.
https://i.imgur.com/YTEHNEVl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/h85gImPl.jpg


I also relocated the ESC/Receiver to the rear originally thinking I might print up a mount. I found the housing fits nicely between the frame rails and decided to glue it in place with E6000. I made sure to get it as low as possible without interfering with links and that the switch had room to function.
https://i.imgur.com/Zo4zeg5l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/G866s8tl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6dV7qrUl.jpg


Clearance to the links (compressed)
https://i.imgur.com/vUjvS3Nl.jpg


To go along with the lowered body in the rear I made up new Shock/Body mounts and integrated a front batter tray that allows the battery to be oriented horizontal or longitudinal. Getting the body mount to line up means moving the body post down one hole on the new body mount (as low as it can go) which drops it 4.5mm to match the rear.



https://i.imgur.com/VLlTXIkl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6Sqbon2l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FHkOXckl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JTMWoB7l.jpg


This is how its sits now with it 4.5mm lower, I also cut 3mm or so off bottom of the body at the door sil

https://i.imgur.com/r5JhOQQl.jpg



At max flex the tires just graze the body, its basically as low as it goes without cutting the fenders open.


Problems, I have a bad battery that's showing a ton or internal resistance, 109 and 87. I need to get in contact with Horizon and see if they will send another battery.

https://i.imgur.com/HsnYuT8l.jpg


I also ran into an issues with the front dogbone axle. Its pin is not fixed in place and wandered outward scarring up the inner C-hub and eventually locking up. I may CA them in place it it happens again.

https://i.imgur.com/pWB59rLl.jpg


I can get over the little shortcomings its still a really fun platform without mods. With the mods I've done starting with just Tires and beadlocks (RC4WD stamped steel wheels and their MT/R's) I felt a huge difference. I weighed it and did some math and the new tires and wheels added 19% more total weight (+1.7 oz). So yes bad for rotational mass but with all of this weight added down low it really helps to keep it from flopping over on its back or its side.
That alone was a big improvement over stock but the electronics and battery tray rearrangement plus the roll cage whittling also added to the balance. I found myself able to sidehill much better in areas that it would have flopped over previously. Its getting close to being as planted as a nice 1.9 rig "thumbsup" It really has impressed me and I may just have to get a second.


I ordered some Carisma oil filled shocks on Spooo76's recommendations.

Oh and I made up a new 3D printed 1 piece front bumper
https://i.imgur.com/A0j1ZTul.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/c0atghfl.jpg

soze 06-02-2019 10:41 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
"like"

spoo76 06-02-2019 10:51 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
As of tonight I also have an issue with the battery. It seems the LVC didn't work and now one cell is only 1.5v. I need to email horizon

Sent from my LGMP450 using Tapatalk

HumboldtEF 06-02-2019 11:13 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
One plus is that their little basic charger doesnt mind charging these imbalanced batteries, lol

spoo76 06-02-2019 11:53 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF (Post 5939640)
One plus is that their little basic charger doesnt mind charging these imbalanced batteries, lol

Well, it's a balance charger so hopefully. However when one cell gets below 2v it doesn't charge which has been a problem for a few people.

Sent from my LGMP450 using Tapatalk

Duramarks 06-03-2019 04:19 AM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Wow! you haven't wasted any time. Looks good. Im excited to see what mods people come up with.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

BIGW0RM 06-03-2019 07:47 AM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
I love what you did to the rollbars! Well done. I like your wheel setup too. Looks great!




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BIGW0RM 06-03-2019 11:10 AM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Hey how long are those carmisa shocks? Are they 34mm? or longer? Anyone know? And are they spring load adjustable? Hard to tell.

HumboldtEF 06-03-2019 07:00 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Duramarks (Post 5939657)
Wow! you haven't wasted any time. Looks good. Im excited to see what mods people come up with.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Thanks, this thing really responds well to mods.


Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGW0RM (Post 5939686)
I love what you did to the rollbars! Well done. I like your wheel setup too. Looks great!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The added weight of the wheels has really stepped up its performance. I've never like the monkey bar style of modern cages, back to the dark ages I say!




Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGW0RM (Post 5939738)
Hey how long are those carmisa shocks? Are they 34mm? or longer? Anyone know? And are they spring load adjustable? Hard to tell.


I actually know nothing about those shocks other than the fact that the use oil, I cant really see a preload on these but I might be wrong. Hopefully spoo76 see's the question, he might know more since I think he has one of the Carisma minis and he's a bit more of an expert in this mini realm.

The body I ordered showed up today and I really dont think I'll be able to bring myself to use it. I just think the weight penalty will be too much and seeing how well its doing after the mods I've done so far makes that even less likely.

https://i.imgur.com/biWnLiXl.jpg

mathcanbefun 06-04-2019 12:08 AM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Hey friend, cool rig. Can you post a link to that battery tray? And how does the rid respond to the battery being more forward?

HumboldtEF 06-04-2019 01:03 AM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by mathcanbefun (Post 5939934)
Hey friend, cool rig. Can you post a link to that battery tray? And how does the rid respond to the battery being more forward?




Thanks, I added the battery tray along with a host of other mods at the same time so I cant really speak to it specifically. Though I can say its greatly improved over stock after all of the mods.



I'll try to get a final version and post up links to the files some time this week, but I want to make a few adjustments first.


Maybe you can answer a question for me, since the battery tray and built in body mounts lower the body by 4.5mm.
Would you want this lowered mount or one that sits at the stock height?

Natedog 06-04-2019 11:10 AM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Wow, very nice job Casey! I was thinking the cage and bar lights need a trim too, definitely helps crawling and looks good. For the dogbone pin, gently press it out about halfway and use a drop of red Loctite or Sleeve Retainer, press it back into centered position and it should never move again without heat and/or a small pin press. :)

BIGW0RM 06-04-2019 11:15 AM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Natedog (Post 5940047)
Wow, very nice job Casey! I was thinking the cage and bar lights need a trim too, definitely helps crawling and looks good. For the dogbone pin, gently press it out about halfway and use a drop of red Loctite or Sleeve Retainer, press it back into centered position and it should never move again without heat and/or a small pin press. :)

Natedogs in the house! "thumbsup"

Since I went micro, I hardly see your name in the threads anymore. Good to see your still active!

HumboldtEF 06-04-2019 11:16 AM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Thanks Nate "thumbsup" Loctite does sound much safer than CA

BIGW0RM 06-04-2019 11:17 AM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF (Post 5939940)
Thanks, I added the battery tray along with a host of other mods at the same time so I cant really speak to it specifically. Though I can say its greatly improved over stock after all of the mods.



I'll try to get a final version and post up links to the files some time this week, but I want to make a few adjustments first.


Maybe you can answer a question for me, since the battery tray and built in body mounts lower the body by 4.5mm.
Would you want this lowered mount or one that sits at the stock height?


That battery tray design is nice! I was worried the battery would stick out too far of the fenders. But that looks very nice. Well done and wheres your shapeways store? :lmao:

Natedog 06-04-2019 11:39 AM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Bigworm, wassup? I still read around and see your threads, sold my ECX Barrage with the sweet 1985 Toyota cab/cage back, got too many projects. This looks interesting though lol. :)

Loctite is a much better bond in this instance and is not a brittle hold like CA can be. Make sure red or sleeve retainer though as blue is not enough in this application. :)

Ya, his printed stuff is very nice in pictures and holding the actual parts! :)

Those Carisma shocks look great and price is nice!

mathcanbefun 06-04-2019 07:15 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF (Post 5939940)
Thanks, I added the battery tray along with a host of other mods at the same time so I cant really speak to it specifically. Though I can say its greatly improved over stock after all of the mods.



I'll try to get a final version and post up links to the files some time this week, but I want to make a few adjustments first.


Maybe you can answer a question for me, since the battery tray and built in body mounts lower the body by 4.5mm.
Would you want this lowered mount or one that sits at the stock height?

Hmmm. I think the stock height. However a lowered body would make it less tippy for sure which I kinda think it needs. I'm willing to give both a try or just one and post some pictures and give you some feedback. I have my own 3d printer.

Also thanks alot I appreciate it. This car is way too much fun to modify. The bigger space makes it easier than a losi micro to.

odomandr 06-05-2019 06:41 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF (Post 5939871)
Thanks, this thing really responds well to mods.





The added weight of the wheels has really stepped up its performance. I've never like the monkey bar style of modern cages, back to the dark ages I say!







I actually know nothing about those shocks other than the fact that the use oil, I cant really see a preload on these but I might be wrong. Hopefully spoo76 see's the question, he might know more since I think he has one of the Carisma minis and he's a bit more of an expert in this mini realm.

The body I ordered showed up today and I really dont think I'll be able to bring myself to use it. I just think the weight penalty will be too much and seeing how well its doing after the mods I've done so far makes that even less likely.

https://i.imgur.com/biWnLiXl.jpg

That body looks like it would be sweet. "thumbsup"

HumboldtEF 06-05-2019 07:20 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
I'm thinking about ways to lighten up the Toyota body. I may cut the bed and just leave the bed sides or "Truggie" it and 3d print a back cage. I think I may get another just to put this body on, I've had it in my cart for 3 days already lol

The basic parts to make the Toyota body weigh 2.1 oz and the stock (read highly modded) body weighs .9 oz (I've trimmed a bit off the body on all sides, trimmed and simplified the cage a ton so I'm not sure where the stock body sits, maybe 1.3 or 1.4 oz?)

odomandr 06-05-2019 07:48 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
1 Attachment(s)
First thing I pulled off the shelf to test..... Choosing what body is going to be fun

HumboldtEF 06-05-2019 08:37 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
That looks like a good fit, is that lexan? Is that the New Bright body?

Drop that body down and make it a lowrider Monster truck!

odomandr 06-05-2019 09:03 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Its plastic from a revell snap Tite kit

Natedog 06-06-2019 12:07 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF (Post 5940597)
I'm thinking about ways to lighten up the Toyota body. I may cut the bed and just leave the bed sides or "Truggie" it and 3d print a back cage. I think I may get another just to put this body on, I've had it in my cart for 3 days already lol

Yota body is hot! Second truck for fiddling with, one always at the ready for crawling, that's the way to do it! :ror: "thumbsup"

Quote:

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF (Post 5940625)
That looks like a good fit...
Drop that body down and make it a lowrider Monster truck!

Yes, looks nice, do it! :)

HumboldtEF 06-07-2019 01:04 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
I think I'm happy enough with the front battery tray to release it, I should have it posted tonight.

I changed up the tabs on the side that hold the battery in to move them out of the way of the tires. At full lock and full compression the old version did rub a bit and now it just grazes it barely with 2" tires.

Here's the old version, the tabs on the side were screwed on and sit a bit farther forward and lower.
https://i.imgur.com/VLlTXIkl.jpg

New version has the tabs reworked for more tire clearance and they are now glued on with CA (super glue) so you wont need extra screws. I also moved the battery strap slots farther apart so that the battery would sit directly on the tray, before it was held up a few millimeters by the strap.

https://i.imgur.com/3uydjZEl.jpg

I'm getting a lot of 'stringing' with the filament I'm using at the moment, but these do clean up with a little bit of work.
https://i.imgur.com/2KsNSwil.jpg

I also took out the front axles shafts so I could loctite their pins in (thanks for the tip Natedog!). The pins are not fixed in place and I did have one come loose a few days back and it locked up the wheels and marred the inside of the C-hub.

The damage is a bit hard to see but it chewed up the nubs that the Knuckles fasten to. I can still use them though.
https://i.imgur.com/GQRxSNZl.jpg

This is what I found the first time, the pin had slid out on one side.
https://i.imgur.com/uERCfWsl.jpg

I took the pins out with needle nose pliers and used some red loctite to wipe the axle down and specifically the hole the pins go though. I rolled up a tiny piece of paper towel that I used to wipe the hole a bit. I only did this to help remove any grease that might have prevented the loctite from bonding.

Then I filled the hole with red loctite and slide the pins back in place using needle nose make sure to get them centered (by eye) and wiped off the excess. (is a blue tube of red loctite BTW)
https://i.imgur.com/v2omRLpl.jpg

I'd recommend folks do this mod before it pops loose and does damage

And I reworked the front bumper again pulling it back as tight as possible and angling it a bit. I'll probably share these files too, let me know if you guys want holes for the lights and I might make a second version including them.
https://i.imgur.com/qMj0YSwl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4y8dTg8l.jpg

Natedog 06-07-2019 04:39 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Very nice....again. What filament are you printing with? Nozzle worn out? Calibration, keeping filament warm and dry (hygroscopic, absorbs moisture to some extent), printer located in warm/dry area can all affect print output.

Proper to clean oil residue off dogbones before final Loctite job.

Holes to mount factory LEDs in the bumper would be good imo, need some red led rocklights and maybe a pair of much dimmer red taillights.

HumboldtEF 06-07-2019 07:59 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Natedog (Post 5941241)
Very nice....again. What filament are you printing with? Nozzle worn out? Calibration, keeping filament warm and dry (hygroscopic, absorbs moisture to some extent), printer located in warm/dry area can all affect print output.

Proper to clean oil residue off dogbones before final Loctite job.

Holes to mount factory LEDs in the bumper would be good imo, need some red led rocklights and maybe a pair of much dimmer red taillights.


Brand new nozzle, I think it may be the new filament I'm using, and I also just upgrade the printer to the MK3S version (from the MK3). I haven't really worried about it as these are mostly hidden but I will need to swap out the filament soon to see if thats it. I'm also using new firmware.
You're talking like you've got a printer man! or maybe soon? do it "thumbsup"


Light mounts should be pretty easy to add, and maybe I can block off some of the light bleed out the back. I actually thought about re-purposing the bumper lights as rock lights. but really I'm just trying to keep this one as bare bones and light as possible.



I just posted up the front battery tray on Thingivense so anyone who wants the file to print can go grab it, there's a lowered version and a stock body height version.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3677918/files

https://i.imgur.com/oDeX6XPl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cnQJIqpl.jpg

odomandr 06-07-2019 09:03 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Sweet thanks man

Natedog 06-09-2019 04:47 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
No printer here atm, done some research awhile back when I was considering and guy at work has had a couple different ones. Dab of black brush on paint will take care of LED light bleed out the rear of bumper mounts. :)

mathcanbefun 06-10-2019 09:50 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
OK so I printed out the new battery mount (lowered 4.5mm version) and have done some testing. I'll upload pictures for reference.

The actual tray: Easy to put together. I have a mini cordless dremel that makes all of this a little easier but at most you'll need to drill out the body post holes. You can probably force screws into the holes without any pre-drilling. It was a perfect fit into the chassis and is very well placed up next to the motor. Everything has room and moves freely. My body is easier to put on now, the stock ESC location leaves a jumble of wires.

Moving the ESC: I put the ESC in basically the same place HumboldtEF did. I just made sure to give the transmission and links clearance when the shocks were fully compressed, and make sure the on/off switch is free. I secured it with hot glue just incase I wanted to move it around. If it needs it I'll add a stronger adhesive. I made an adapter for the battery plug to use my other micro batteries so I did not have to lengthen those. Not sure if the stock length is enough.

Hinge tray: for some reason this wouldnt print for me. I'll check with HumboldtEF to see if it's a real concern or just an issue on my end. One of the pieces that the screw goes through gets cut off when slicing.

Pros: The entire truck feels lighter. The battery is as far forward as can go. It really makes a night and day difference getting up rocks. It's far less tippy as a lot of the trucks weight is much lower. It also doesn't get thrown around by the servo any more, especially when descending. I like the stance more with it lower too. The on/off switch is much more convenient in this location. The wires are out of the way of the body, whereas before I would have to compress the body to get expose the body clip holes. The Ports on the ESC are now much more accessible.

Cons: NOTE: I thought there front tires rubbed at full lock but upon closer inspection its just super close. The tolerances are really good on this design. The rear is unaffected by this mod so no problems there. I was not able to use the lowest setting on the body post as my grille was hitting the bumper, so I used the middle hole. You just have to remove some bodywork. (So I guess no cons haha)

I recommend this mod. It works beautifully so far and makes more than one positive change to the truck. Very easy to do and adds alot of capability to the scx24.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...304f2072f8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f5e96bd1f8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...37127b5f21.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...686be851d5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...19a69fea77.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6a9b99acad.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...16c09eacfb.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

mathcanbefun 06-10-2019 11:02 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Shoot this is the wrong thread. How do I remedy this? Just copy and paste?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

HumboldtEF 06-11-2019 09:35 AM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Yeah you could copy and paste it into the other thread but its fine here too.

I just checked out the hinge and I'm not seeing anything getting cut off using Prusa Slicer.
This piece is really small which may have something to do with it, what sized nozzle did you use? I used a .15

https://i.imgur.com/AlZKTSel.png

To get my body to fit when lowered I did cut off some material below the grill, but I'm also using a different bumper too.

Is anyone else having trouble printing the hinge?

mathcanbefun 06-11-2019 02:41 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF (Post 5942176)
Yeah you could copy and paste it into the other thread but its fine here too.

I just checked out the hinge and I'm not seeing anything getting cut off using Prusa Slicer.
This piece is really small which may have something to do with it, what sized nozzle did you use? I used a .15

https://i.imgur.com/AlZKTSel.png

To get my body to fit when lowered I did cut off some material below the grill, but I'm also using a different bumper too.

Is anyone else having trouble printing the hinge?

Here's some pictures of the slice attempt. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9fae057965.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c748f213d6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...59c470b9f4.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

mathcanbefun 06-11-2019 02:43 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Using a 0.2 nozzle @ 0.15 layer height.

JeepinOR 06-11-2019 02:45 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Hinge printed flawlessly on my CR-10S; used Cura, stock CR-10S.

mathcanbefun 06-11-2019 02:49 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by JeepinCA (Post 5942312)
Hinge printed flawlessly on my CR-10S; used Cura, stock CR-10S.

Hmmm. Anyone else using simplify3D?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

nascarkeith 06-11-2019 04:51 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Just picked me up 2. One for me and one for my daughter. Definitely going to print the battery mount and hinge. I would also like a no light version of the bumper when you get that file ready.

I've got a Dremel 3D printer at work. I'm still learning on the modeling parts. Thanks for all you research and freely sharing info.

HumboldtEF 06-11-2019 06:27 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by nascarkeith (Post 5942346)
Just picked me up 2. One for me and one for my daughter. Definitely going to print the battery mount and hinge. I would also like a no light version of the bumper when you get that file ready.

I've got a Dremel 3D printer at work. I'm still learning on the modeling parts. Thanks for all you research and freely sharing info.


Nice I've got a 2nd on the way too, so fun these little guys!


Its my pleasure to share "thumbsup"


I can put that bumper up now, its good to go.
I did try to make a version with lights but the width just doesnt work out so I'd need to totally redesign it, so I'm probably not going to do a version with lights.


I went through my design process on the hinge and I think I found the cause, and its likely something I may have never caught without your feedback mathcanbefun (I think my software fixes it for me) so thanks "thumbsup".


So the extrusion was done as a "new body" instead of "join", I've switched it to join and I think that was likely the cause.


I pulled the original file out and added the new one

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3677918


EDIT: I just posted up the front bumper https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3686020

https://i.imgur.com/qMj0YSwl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fnfwGv7l.jpg

I made sure I didnt make the same mistake that I made on the hinge, sure enough I did (fixed it though). From now on I'll be actively avoiding the new body option.

mathcanbefun 06-11-2019 07:01 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF (Post 5942372)
Nice I've got a 2nd on the way too, so fun these little guys!


Its my pleasure to share "thumbsup"


I can put that bumper up now, its good to go.
I did try to make a version with lights but the width just doesnt work out so I'd need to totally redesign it, so I'm probably not going to do a version with lights.


I went through my design process on the hinge and I think I found the cause, and its likely something I may have never caught without your feedback mathcanbefun (I think my software fixes it for me) so thanks "thumbsup".


So the extrusion was done as a "new body" instead of "join", I've switched it to join and I think that was likely the cause.


I pulled the original file out and added the new one

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3677918


EDIT: I just posted up the front bumper https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3686020

https://i.imgur.com/qMj0YSwl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fnfwGv7l.jpg

I made sure I didnt make the same mistake that I made on the hinge, sure enough I did (fixed it though). From now on I'll be actively avoiding the new body option.

You are the MAN thank you! Im going to give it try right now

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

HumboldtEF 06-11-2019 07:37 PM

Re: Whittling on a SCX24
 
Glad to help "thumbsup" I learned something as a result (at least I think?)

Just keep us posted on if that fixed it or not.

BIGW0RM 06-11-2019 08:31 PM

Whittling on a SCX24
 
How much more weight do you guys put up front? Right now mine is about 10g heavier up front. And my battery is in stock location.

From the looks of them trays your weight must be 70% or more up front?

I know more up front helps. But at what point is it too much? How do you gauge that guys? Im genuinely curious.

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