Bigworm’s SCX24 Build

[BIGW0RM]

2021 EDIT:

I now have two SCX24's.

Here is a link to the final edition of my OG SCX24 Deadbolt.
Bigworm’s SCX24 Build

And here is where my SCX24 C-10 build is at:
Bigworm’s SCX24 Build


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The information below might be old or outdated by now.


Here is my little Yota driven scx24!

MODS LIST:
430mah 2S battery
Hbx devastator wheels.
RC4WD 61mm tall scramblers
Crawler Innovations Soft micro foams.
Emax ES08MAII 2kg servos x2
Four wheel steer via splitter and signal reverser
Two losi micro shocks in rear.




First thing I did was add some rubber o rings around all the steering linkage ball ends. This GREATLY removed a lot of the steering slop. See my picture below for the red circle. Put one or two per ball end and now your linkage wont tilt so much when you turn, thus cleaning up a lot of slop. It REALLY helps a lot.




Shock wise, I simply added some o rings to the top of the front springs to give them some preload (NOT SHOWN). And for the rear I put two losi micro shocks attached to the rear battery tray mount and I get over 60mm of articulation both front or back!!! I am extremely pleased with this. I can climb 49 degrees upward with the body on. I can sidehill up to 41-42 degrees before it tips. I love how well this drives now.











For the 4WS, I purchased a new front axle and two new servos. The servos I listed above FIT. They are not perfect fit, as they protrude out 1-2mm but they FIT and work very well. More than enough torque to move the whole truck of one wheel gets stuck. I also used a y splitter and signal reverse for my 4WS. I plan to use the 3 position switch for a winch or something. I also had to use the other links in the box to attach the front axle so the pinion angle was correct. ALSO, I forgot. When I removed the rear body hinge, I moved the rear shock, mounts FORWARD one notch. I did this because my rear servo was hitting it where it was placed stock. I also added 5/32 tubbing that I bent from one side to the other with some velcro for the rear part of the body to mount too.







Tire wise, I am a sucker for the HBX monster wheels. I just like how they stick out. I went this route over wheel spacers. And now that I have scramblers on the HBX wheels, I am very happy. Plus the HBX wheel has a lot of room for weight. Each one of my wheels is 22 grams. Which might be a tad too much. But it works well!









Power wise I am going to try the RC4WD motor with the 10T once my new electronics land. Or I might throw in a ECX barrage 050 long can motor. While i like the stock electronics a lot. I want to have a crawler mode for 4WS. So a GT5 is on its way and I'll mess with other motors when that lands! Otherwise I would keep the stock electronics. I think they work great!



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[mathcanbefun]

Love the tire and wheel combo! Can you post a picture of the guts?

Yoda made me double take haha

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[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by mathcanbefun

Love the tire and wheel combo! Can you post a picture of the guts?

Yoda made me double take haha

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Thank you Math! Those RC4WD scramblers STICK SO good! And they fit that rim perfectly IMO. Be warned. Not ALL RC4WD tires FIT the HBX wheels. But the scramblers do very well.

I posted a pic under of under the body. But its older. My rear shocks are now Losi micro shocks in the rear attached to the back part of the battery tray mount. But thats my rear body attachment point. I used some 5/32 tubing stuck inside the two body post holes with some velcro.

And Yota is just a lego guy keychain with his head yanked off and bolted right in. If only this was a mini TF2 body though. = )

[Duramarks]

Do you know what the part number is for the losi shocks? I'm having some trouble trying to find them.

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[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by Duramarks

Do you know what the part number is for the losi shocks? I'm having some trouble trying to find them.

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SKU: LOSB1722

https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDeta...tCode=LOSB1722

They are hard to find at times. I got mine from RPP. You can find some on ebay and amazon, but they want 29 bucks. Screw that!

[Duramarks]

Thanks!

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[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by Duramarks

Thanks!

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No problem.

[GChambers]

Think these would work well also?

https://www.hobbytown.com/hot-racing...543t06/p649881

[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by GChambers

Think these would work well also?
https://www.hobbytown.com/hot-racing...543t06/p649881

I have those. In fact I bought two sets. They will be a bitch to mount as the holes on the top and bottom are much bigger than the ball ends we have. So they dont snap in.
You can use the hardware they come with, but then your mostly likely needing longer or different bigger screws.

I personally would PASS on those. I have them and dont like them at all. I have them on my RC4WD with the middle spring and they dont rebound enough. The firm spring is way to hard. I find that they stick and dont really slide up and down well being metal on metal inside the chamber.

While they HAVE the distance to help with more articulation. They are NOT worth 30 bucks and I found them to be more hassle than worth. With the LOSB1722 springs, you get damping AND articulation. Not just metal on metal grinding up and down sticky shocks like the HR43 mm. Plus the LOSB1722 compress the most out of all micro shocks Ive tried. But they are ugly. I messed with springs I had laying around to make mine look different.

[GChambers]

Greatly appreciate the info.

[BIGW0RM]

Added the RC4WD micro motor today. It has a 10T pinion and really helped with it stalling out. Now the tires will just spin if stuck!

However, I lost some wheel speed. Not sure what I like more. Trying the ecx 1/24 050 motor next hopefully.




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[HumboldtEF]

With the size of those wheels you should have got some extra wheelspeed anyway lol

How did it compare size wise?

[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

With the size of those wheels you should have got some extra wheelspeed anyway lol

How did it compare size wise?

The RC4WD motor looks identical to the stock motor. Both are 030 motors. Rumor is the RC4WD has more turns than the 88T axial motor. Im not sure because changing the motors also changed the pinion.

With the 12T pinion that comes on the axial 030 motor I would stall out at times hitting something head on. I liked its top speed. The wheel speed helps.

With the 10T pinion that comes on the RC4WD motor I dont stall out at all!!! But I lost a lot of wheel speed. So I dont know what to do.. I like the 12T pinion speed. But I want the 10T torque.

Let me get a video of it....


Here is the SCX24 with STOCK motor and stock 12T pinion. (motors are both 030)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRE-9nAvIB8

Here is the SCX24 with RC4WD motor and its 10T pinion (motors are both 030)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwFcmfR3P3g


Pretty big difference! Im not sure if that pinion alone or perhaps the RC4WD DOES have more turns thus making it slower motor wise than the axial motor. If the pinions wherent so hard to remove on these little motors, Id swap them around. The issue is you have to pretty much disassemble half the transmission just to change motors. The spur gear blocks the bolts. So Im not motivated to do this again today...lol.

[spoo76]

Im sure both the pinion and higher turn motor help give it the torque.

When you were stalling out was your transmitter on H? My stock scx24 doesn't seem to have an unreasonable stall and I only use H. L & M cut power and will often stall. As far as speed I'm running a 9T pinion and 110t motor and feel I have plenty of wheel speed for hills or bumping over if needed, but that's all personal preference. It's certainly a bit faster than normal walking pace which is good

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[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by spoo76

Im sure both the pinion and higher turn motor help give it the torque.

When you were stalling out was your transmitter on H? My stock scx24 doesn't seem to have an unreasonable stall and I only use H. L & M cut power and will often stall. As far as speed I'm running a 9T pinion and 110t motor and feel I have plenty of wheel speed for hills or bumping over if needed, but that's all personal preference. It's certainly a bit faster than normal walking pace which is good

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Hey Spoo76,

I was. Mostly when I approached something head on. Not anymore though! lol

Yea the RC4WD motor with the 10T is as slow as I would want mine. I liked the speed of the stock motor. But love how smoother this one is.

I got a FF-050 barrage motor I want to try next. The problem is I have to drill two new holes for it and Im not very good at that.

Unfortunately they do not use that motor adapter plate RC4WD used on there tranny/motor which give you the ability to use 030 or 050 motors.

And what exactly is your 110t motor size?

I wish they would all just use 130 motors. You can find those in all kinds of turns and options.

[spoo76]

Originally Posted by BIGW0RM

Hey Spoo76,

I was. Mostly when I approached something head on. Not anymore though! lol

Yea the RC4WD motor with the 10T is as slow as I would want mine. I liked the speed of the stock motor. But love how smoother this one is.

I got a FF-050 barrage motor I want to try next. The problem is I have to drill two new holes for it and Im not very good at that.

Unfortunately they do not use that motor adapter plate RC4WD used on there tranny/motor which give you the ability to use 030 or 050 motors.

And what exactly is your 110t motor size?

I wish they would all just use 130 motors. You can find those in all kinds of turns and options.

The 110t I'm using is pretty much the same size. It's a Losi motor wound to 110t before Dan bought the Predator business I believe.

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[BIGW0RM]

Well adding the flysky GT5 and Mamba micro X didn't go too well. There isn't enough room for both a 6 channel receiver and the mamba micro X on the electronics tray. There is enough room on the battery try. But the battery try is like 3-4mm to high and I cant get the body on it because of the ESC wires coming out the top.

Oh well. The stock electronics are pretty good anyhow. I just wanted to use my GT5 to disable 4WS at times.

Also, I tried setting my 4WS with the 3 position switch. Problem is the servo buzzes like crazy when left or right. It needs end point adjustment or else I suspect the servos will fry. Or else I would have went that route.

And finally, the 3 position switch does not like on/off switches attached to it. I bought one for the front lights and installed it to the aux channel with the 3 position switch and it wont turn on. Once I unplug the switch, it binds. The second I turn the truck off and on again, it wont bind. Pulling that on/off switch allows it to bind. It works fine once the truck is on and I plug the switch in. But only after it binds. Gave up on the switch.

[BIGW0RM]

Got my carisma oil shocks on. I used the stock springs with the stick spring lower. I used the Carisma mounts up top with longer bolts going into the battery tray mount.

I could not use the carisma ball end mounts on the bottom because I have 4WS and they limit the turning radius by hitting the c hub.






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[HumboldtEF]

So how do they feel? I never got around to installing mine.

And did you come up with anything for the front?

[mathcanbefun]

Those are good looking shocks!

Idea: 3d printed preload spacers that have fake shock reservoirs on them. Two birds, one 3d printed stone.

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