Easy SCX24 Wheel Track Wideningering.

[Chicken Man]

Hey guys, bit of a random discovery when I was looking at my RCs this afternoon - you know, looking for a project while I wait for parts and a couple of new kits.

I looked at the SCX24, and thought about it's most disappointing characteristic - top heavy (Deadbolt) and tips fairly easily - I then happened to look at the small push-rod "things" I had out when I put a brushless system in a tiny H100 boat and... then my brain actually worked for a change.







It was enough to move the wheels out noticeably, the internal tire to tire measurement is now 81-82mm ish. I left the standard hex in place as the spacer holds it there so the pin won't pop out, these use the standard nylock nut as well.
Used a small amount of loctite to keep em on and have been out wheeling on my little pile of stay at home rocks, better performance, looks better, easy to do and easily reversible - good times.

I was hunting for a standoff from a motherboard but I didn't have any luck so I am unsure if they would accomplish the same thing. (They don't, although the hex matches the thread itself is larger).


Of course, if you get into a bind situation or don't use loctite you will have a wheel come off as forward movement would loosen the wheel/spacer assembly off the hub, not a perfect solution but until hot-racing make brass spacers and sell them for $40USD it will do haha.

[spoo76]

Cool low buck find! As far as "until HR makes a brass spacer" there are brass Milstone spacers available on eBay.

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[Chicken Man]

Originally Posted by spoo76

Cool low buck find! As far as "until HR makes a brass spacer" there are brass Milstone spacers available on eBay.

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Ah, I just hadn't searched for the right thing. They are stupid expensive to get to Australia but definitely cool.

[spoo76]

Originally Posted by Chicken Man

Ah, I just hadn't searched for the right thing. They are stupid expensive to get to Australia but definitely cool.

I wonder if it would be cheaper if someone got together with a few others and shipped a small batch of them

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[Chicken Man]

It's all good, I added an Oring to fill out the hex and put some thick solder in the front and back rims - about 7 in each of the fronts and 3 in each of the backs.

Totally different beast, was really quite disappointed out of the box but you can actually call it a crawler with a couple of mods.

The next iteration is going to be drilling out a M4 nut for the hex and press fitting it to the push rod thingy.

Definitely on the hunt for a new servo though, fairly weak unit stock.

[spoo76]

The servo itself isn't the best, but I've noticed the servo saver and steering tie rod are bigger steering issues. The servo saver is weak, and even with an upgraded servo the steering tie rod has slop and the bar will bend and flex in a bind. When upgrading the servo a home made tie rod from metal tube would be a worthwhile upgrade IMO

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[Mr_Wolf_Is_Innocent]

Originally Posted by spoo76

I wonder if it would be cheaper if someone got together with a few others and shipped a small batch of them

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If aus is like the uk, on imported goods we get, item price, postage, customs duty, VAT and customs duty surcharge, I ordered a set of the spacers, the millstones were not listed then, and I think it totalled £50+.. that was half way to a new truck.

I am currently trying to find a way to add non rotating weight to mine, because I keep reading that the rotating weight is not good.


Element Sendero 1/10. Crawler/Trailer.
Scx24 crc. Crawler 1/24.
Wltoys a212. Shortcourse 1/24.
Wltoys k969. Drifty 1/28

[spoo76]

Rotational weight isn't the best for various reasons, but there's always a balance of pros and cons with everything. Weight in the knuckles is better, because it's non rotational. however at this scale with limited space and size things get tricky. There's also the issue of cost vs value. It's best to play around with what works for you. Sometimes the cons are so minimal while true, you may not notice.


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[Chicken Man]

In the time of reeeaaaallly long postage delays I think it's about making the most of what you actually have on hand.
Rotational weight is fine for micros imo, a little goes a long way as well, I would love to have the Hot Racing upgrades but they are at least a month away if I ordered now .. hell, perhaps two or more with all the restrictions.

I replaced the servo with an Emax I originally ordered for the Autorc 1/24. It's fine for now but I am about to head into the garage and look at making some custom links out of copper tube, I knew buying heaps of random stuff from Hobbyking when it was on sale was a good idea haha.
I definitely think one of the best little upgrades is full orings, takes all the slop away and almost offers a bit of damping.

The video is really rushed, anyone with kids will understand >.> I didn't get any side hill action, maybe later.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njGw...ature=youtu.be

[Chicken Man]

Originally Posted by spoo76

The servo itself isn't the best, but I've noticed the servo saver and steering tie rod are bigger steering issues. The servo saver is weak, and even with an upgraded servo the steering tie rod has slop and the bar will bend and flex in a bind. When upgrading the servo a home made tie rod from metal tube would be a worthwhile upgrade IMO

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I made one from metal tube but I am missing a few tools to have it as I wanted it so I just slotted a length of tube and used that to reinforce the stock bar by squeezing it on. I ditched the servo saver when I swapped servos.
This is before I swapped things around but just for anyone browsing, the two o-rings elevate the tie-rod and remove any play without restricting steering. I put them on almost every joint on the rig but if you only do two.. it's these two.

[spoo76]

You could also use a tube, pinch the ends, drill through the pinched ends to screw into the knuckles

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[Chicken Man]

Originally Posted by spoo76

You could also use a tube, pinch the ends, drill through the pinched ends to screw into the knuckles

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I went with sacrificing an included extra link for the ball ends, work in progress.

[JatoTheRipper]

Very clever mod!

[BashNSlash]

What's the part number of the stuff you used? I came on this morning wanting to ask about where to get barrel nuts to make my own wheel wideners and this came up so I'm interested!

[BIGW0RM]

Those almost look like motherboard stand off screws? Are they just tighten onto the threaded axle and then use the wheel nut on the stand off thread?

https://www.staples.com/StarTech-com...SABEgIEOfD_BwE

[BashNSlash]

Originally Posted by BIGW0RM

Those almost look like motherboard stand off screws? Are they just tighten onto the threaded axle and then use the wheel nut on the stand off thread?

https://www.staples.com/StarTech-com...SABEgIEOfD_BwE

After searching my house for a solution, I've concluded that it IS something like that, but I don't have any spares to test with - I've been trying to 3d print wideners, but the barrel nut/standoff/hex nut solution hasn't been easy to solve.

[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by BashNSlash

After searching my house for a solution, I've concluded that it IS something like that, but I don't have any spares to test with - I've been trying to 3d print wideners, but the barrel nut/standoff/hex nut solution hasn't been easy to solve.

I just rebuilt my PC. I should have some extra stand offs. I will see if the threading matches and report back as soon as I can. Although, I dont understand what will hold the wheel firm is the HEX is not in the wheel?

Yeah, I do not like wheel widener kits. Having to drill the wheel hole out for the barrel nut to fit bugs me. I had to drill my RC4WD beadlocks to work with the milstone kit. Meh.

This is one of the reasons I use the HBX monster truck wheels. No adapters and you get the same output stance.

But you are limited on tire choice due to there wideness.

[BIGW0RM]

Ah, my computer stand offs are 6/32th. Not metric. Though there seem to be metric ones out on amazon. But I still dont understand how the tires will not spin freely if the hex hub nut is not there. Unless Im missing something...

[spoo76]

Originally Posted by BIGW0RM

Yeah, I do not like wheel widener kits. Having to drill the wheel hole out for the barrel nut to fit bugs me. I had to drill my RC4WD beadlocks to work with the milstone kit. Meh.

Drilling isn't necessary on most wheels,and in the case of the stamped bead locks you don't notice it's drilled out. Technically wideners aren't even necessary since you can flip the wheels around for lots more offset and it's very easy to add weight to the steel wheels.
Now for the expensive allow wheels I might be hesitant to drill into them.


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[Chicken Man]

Standoffs aren't the right fit, the push rod things I used were a random purchase ages ago - was pretty hard to find where I got them from haha.

These are them: Here

Not in stock currently but yeah, should be able to find something similar. It's just a fluke that they have exactly the same thread diameter etc as the SCX24 axles.