Gramps SCX24 Deadbolt

[Gramps]

There wasn't anything wrong with my stock motor but I wanted to try the RC4WD FF-030 which I think is a 100t motor and has a 10t pinion. Doesn't come with wires and the PH 2.0 connectors I have don't have the good silicone wire. So I just unsoldered the ones on the stock motor and sued them. I ran it a little bit on the inside course and to be honest I didn't notice much difference. When turning the motor by hand you can feel that it has stronger magnets.

[Bray D]

The wheels look great. Good thinkin' with the assembly trick.

It's too bad the new motor isn't more powerful. I struggled to find solid info on these little motors so I took the plunge on the Barrage 050 motor. It's a big thing, but it moves the truck pretty well. I could still use slightly lower gearing though.

[Gramps]

Can't really say it isn't more powerful. I don't think my indoor track is very taxing on the motor. I need to take it out to my 1/10 outdoor track and try it there. Just turning the stock motor and the FF-030 the stock turns freely by hand, the FF-030 is notchy. Wish I had two Deadbolts, one I could modify and the other use as a baseline.

[Gramps]

Ran the C10 then the Deadbolt tonight. You could definitely tell the difference between the 2. The Deadbolt had much more throttle resolution and was easier to drive. I found myself over powering the C10 trying to get it to move.


My biggest gripe with the Deadbolt now is the stock servo. I have a Emax for it but been trying to wear out the stock one. I'm about to give up and swap it out.

[vinceherman]

Gramps, you may have mentioned it and I missed it. Is the FF-030 a straight match for the mounting bolt pattern?
As I understand, the Barrage motor requires a different plate of drilling the stock one.

[vinceherman]

Originally Posted by Gramps

The Deadbolt had much more throttle resolution and was easier to drive. I found myself over powering the C10 trying to get it to move.

This is the type of information I am looking for.
Greater throttle resolution.

[Bray D]

Running the C10 and the Deadbolt right after one another is a good test. It's encouraging to hear that the new motor gives you some more torque.

I like the 030 motor size, but I also like the torque from my 050. I'm curious if there are any torque tests between various motors of this size on Youtube. If I could get an 030 that matched my current 050, I'd be tempted to go back down in size. My 050 is pretty long.

@vinceherman I can confirm that you need a new motor plate or you'll have to drill your stock plate if you want to run the Barrage motor.

[Gramps]

The RC4WD FF-030 motors are pretty cheap and the specs say more torque and made for crawlers. At $4.99 each I figured I'd try one. I may down the line try a Barrage FF-050 motor just to compare the two. I'd also like to try one of the Hobby Plus 030 motor which is speced at 100t but they are always out of stock. Guess I could order one from one of the Chinese suppliers but I prefer not to do that.

[Gramps]

Not real sure how to compare the torque of the stock motor to the FF-030 so I decided to do a drag race. The tires and weight are some watt equal so the motor is the variable. Made 3 runs switching the hand that held the TX each time.



SCX24 motor comparison

[SCX10 JK]

Saw the video you posted of the drag race. Nice comparison and great information. So far I have had no need to upgrade motors yet, but that rc4wd motor seems like a good idea. I have one of each and other than new tires they are all bone stock. Love the posts and the videos keep up the good work. I found the new thornbird tires work pretty well and I was amazed at the difference that the Rok Lox and stamped steel wheels made on the C10.

[Gramps]

3D printed some high clearance links for the Deadbolt. Found the files on Thingeverse.


Stock long link with the 3D printed one



Used the exacto knife to clean out the hole a little so the balls would pop in. Used the tip of a .050 hex driver to push out the balls from the stock links. Putting them in the 3d printed links I first lubed the hole with some Extreme Purple lube then used pliers to pop them into the links.





High link rear stock link front









I printed them with PLA+ if they don't hold up I'll use them for a pattern to make metal ones.

[Bray D]

Nice! Those are super high clearance. I've been pondering 4 linking the front so I could stretch the wheelbase ever so slightly. Using high clearance lower links would kill two birds with 1 stone.

[Gramps]

Put some cut CI Lil'Novas in the rear wheels after I vented them.

[Gramps]

I finally got tired of the wheels not turning when I cranked the wheel. Today I put the Emax in and while I had it apart I put some A006 O-rings under the steering rods to tighten them up.

[Bray D]

Gotta love strong, accurate steering.

[Gramps]

That’s for sure, finally got tired of fighting it.

[shiggy]

The Orings are such a cheap and easy fix.

[Gramps]

I like the look of big tires on the Deadbolt so I ordered a set of RC4WD Scramblers to replace the Wranglers I had on it.



While I had the wheels apart I vented them. Also used CI 1.0 soft foams.


Front is the Scrambler, rear is the Wrangler



All suited up with new shoes

[Bray D]

I love the look of Deadbolts on Scramblers. How do they do performance wise compared to your other tires? I’m sure the size helps, but I’m curious if other tires hook up better on climbs where size isn’t necessarily advantageous.

[Gramps]

On my indoor course they did real well. They went up and over the big hill with retaliative ease. The RC4WD Mudslingers are suppose to hook up better and are about the same size. I'll have a video of the Scramblers on my indoor course when I get it edited. I really like the way they look on the Deadbolt.

I've noticed that when you take RC4WD tires out of the package they are real sticky. After they are run a little bit the stickiness disappears. I'm sure you could wash them and get the stickiness back.