building a u4 track in lake Elmo

[Nicklepimp]

Originally Posted by msd44

So, if someone starts with a RTR (like my self) What are the top 5 upgrades that I need to start with?

I already swapped to VP hubs... And looking for some wheels, and ordered the STRC rear brace.

I started with a rtr as well. The first thing I changed we're the wheels. The stock servo crapped out early, so that's gone. Next for me was steering & suspension in the front: Traxxas links, Rpm a-arms, and VP steering parts (under that bat wing looking part of the chassis). Next, the rear trailing arms we're starting to bend where the shock mounts-replaced arms. And finally I just replaced the knuckles, hubs, and front axle shafts (to cvd's) after our last event. I also replaced the rx, but that was just to minimize the number of radios I need to carry.

If I had to rank them in order of neccesity...
1) stock servo
2) steering/suspension links and steering parts under bat wing
3) wheels
4) trailing arms
5) hubs/ knuckles/ axle shafts

Tires are also a good idea, but the above will increase the durability 10 fold.

[msd44]

Good to know! I have a few high end servos that are laying around... So I knew that I would be placing it ASAP.

The steering links are a good idea... I'll be swapping those out ASAP. I was looking at the VP steering rack.. May just order that up along with their trailing arms.

[fr8cture]

Rpm arms, links, HD gears, servo, wheels

[msd44]

Originally Posted by fr8cture

Rpm arms, links, HD gears, servo, wheels

What wheels are you guys running? I was thinking of going with VP wheels, but I am wondering if that my be overkill a bit. I mean... It will see it's fair share of bashing as well.

[fr8cture]

I'm running method 105s but really any wheel with adjustable hubs will work. I don't recommend plastic beadlocks.

[SuperDrty]

Mine started as an RTR, and I've done very little to it, and it's a blast.

E-Maxx rear driveshaft
swapeed the steering servo out (solar D772, had it laying around, it's still much better than stock)
Swapped to my Spektrum radio, as the stock rx got wet, even in the "sealed" rx box, and started glitching
Proline Super Swamper tires (royal pain to mount on stock wheels)
Stock wheels, but with the Axial plastic hex drive hubs (not the pin drives they came with stock)
and a fan on the motor, on 3s the motor and esc get hot, need a fan for the stock esc still

Only other things I want to do is traxxas upper links and tie-rods (since I have take-offs from my 4x4 Slash), a fan for the esc, and hardened rear gears, as the pot metal ones in it are clicking on mine already (have a set I can pull from another truck, just have to remember which one, haha).

-Derek

[fr8cture]

Got a 3656SD 4000kv on 3S (hobbywing rates it as 3s) in my yeti started with stock gearing....got hot...went to 14T pinion still hot...don't want to loose any speed. Thinking about trying a fan.

[dna4engr]

Originally Posted by msd44

What wheels are you guys running? I was thinking of going with VP wheels, but I am wondering if that my be overkill a bit. I mean... It will see it's fair share of bashing as well.

Originally Posted by fr8cture

I'm running method 105s but really any wheel with adjustable hubs will work. I don't recommend plastic beadlocks.

I broke the stock wheels so I went with the plastic proline fault line beadlocks that take slw hubs. These have been great so far. Most competitive guys out west glue on some CI 6 bolts. Weight is key here less rotating weight puts less strain on the driveline.

Originally Posted by fr8cture

Got a 3656SD 4000kv on 3S (hobbywing rates it as 3s) in my yeti started with stock gearing....got hot...went to 14T pinion still hot...don't want to loose any speed. Thinking about trying a fan.

I'm running 3500kv pro4 HD on 2s. Top speed is only in the 20 mph range but you need to realize that for U4 racing 3s is mostly a waste on a hi kv motor. You'll end up wrecked or rolled over all the time if you don't control your power.

Dialing in the right amount of speed and jumping controllability are probably the most important things out of the gate. Then it's clearance for rocks and turning ability.

[fr8cture]

If I went to 2s I'm sure it would be in the mid to low 20s but right now just bashing with it.

[Stormin2u]

Originally Posted by fr8cture

Got a 3656SD 4000kv on 3S (hobbywing rates it as 3s) in my yeti started with stock gearing....got hot...went to 14T pinion still hot...don't want to loose any speed. Thinking about trying a fan.

I'm pretty sure I'll be running something brushless and sensored from Holmes. I was thinking 2s for a battery. Motors on 3s get pretty borderline warm on a 6 min comp corse run not even being pushed very hard. A fan will defiantly help with any heating issue no question. Most ECS used for racing all have fans. Going for a 2s set-up would defiantly solve your motor heating problem the extra bonus might even be a higher final gear ratio.

For wheels the lighter the better IMO anyone running CI six bolt glue ons? The Delrin Gearhead BLs are pretty light and put a death grip on tire beads. Duuuuuude also has some really good looking Delrin designs. I'm also assuming that you might what something wider 1.25 1.50 as well.

[fr8cture]

Yeah my esc has a fan want to get the castle one for the motor. All the wheel suggestions should work well.

[msd44]

I was looking at the Duuuuuuuuuude Wheels.. But I see only glue on ones for a yeti?

[Stormin2u]

I'm not much of a glue on fan I like to tweak foam to much but that might change with some new axle weight options for Pro. For the Yeti I'm defiantly interested a light weight beadlocks.

[djjiz]

Duuude will make a half lock half glue on and they will eventually be needed.

I constantly had to reglue the outer bead. It's part of the reason I sold the yeti.

[fr8cture]

No issues with gluing beadlocks.

[dna4engr]

Originally Posted by Stormin2u

I'm not much of a glue on fan I like to tweak foam to much but that might change with some new axle weight options for Pro. For the Yeti I'm defiantly interested a light weight beadlocks.

Storm, the plastic proline beadlocks I use are holding the proline Flat Iron Xl's well with closed cell foams from CI. I did have 1 start to pull out, but upon further investigation, found that there was a chunk of dirt in the bead from when the pitbulls were on there. They could not hold Pitbull RB2 well, so a Proline tire is a must with these wheels. For this rig, the thing i love about these wheels is how wide they are. They work perfect with the wider flat iron XL to provide a big footpatch for racing. I need to get some CI tuning discs as these tires are so wide the standard CI DW foams don't fill the tire out completely. I run DW standard up front and DW Tall in the back. With the talls, you don't even know they are made for bigger tires. I may switch to talls in front.

Any high quality Aluminum beadlock will hold well as long as it's not a proline bead your trying to hold. It's just the weight. I ran lockedup RC with the pitbull RB2s and never had an issue. They were just heavier than I wanted.

[Stormin2u]

Thanks Dana your point about wheel width is very valid IMO it also provokes the question about the excess weight of a alloy wheel might be good or bad? I've had some nice Delrin wheels in the past they bridge the weight gap between plastic and alloy nicely. Duuuuudes cutting some pretty nice looking products I might consider Delrin. I've been shopping and a new assembled roller is a little over $200 without electronics, wheels/tires, instructions or box I'd have only the platform literally a clean slate.

[nerby149]

I am ordering a yeti kit for Easton today, he sold his wraith, gonna use the guys recommendations on installs right away(dlux housings), gonna put tekin roc412 3100kv in it with castle esc.

[Stormin2u]

Originally Posted by fr8cture

No issues with gluing beadlocks.

What are you running for wheels? I wouldn't mind the light weight glue ons as long as I was positive about the foam package. I really dread the thought of de-bonding glued wheels to do a foam tweak?

[fr8cture]

I have VP Method 105s. Vp has the lighest aluminum beadlocks I know of. Don't see it being a issue. Now with something like a gear head Aluminum wheel...yeah weight will probably be a issue. Those are insanely heavy.