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Old 05-12-2017, 05:46 PM   #21
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Default Re: allanon1965 builds a 6x6

I have received my power HD water proof servo and a used scx10 trans from a member on here...I also have made a pair of hinges out of styrene and used E6000 to glue them to the body. I have high hopes these will do the job for the forward tilting cab. I also ordered steel gears and an aluminum case for the transmission
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Old 05-12-2017, 08:45 PM   #22
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got the cab mounted tonight, looks good I think..it tilts forward nicely but I need to trim a bit in front to allow it to tilt fully open..
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Old 05-12-2017, 09:57 PM   #23
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Default Re: allanon1965 builds a 6x6

Very nice work

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Old 05-13-2017, 03:15 AM   #24
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Thanks!
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Old 05-13-2017, 09:07 PM   #25
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Default Re: allanon1965 builds a 6x6

got some more mock up done tonight, the drive shafts showed up...as well as the transmission..
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Old 05-15-2017, 08:35 PM   #26
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Default Re: allanon1965 builds a 6x6

I got the other 2 rock stompers for the front of my 6x6, also used some black styrene to close off the back of the cab, just waiting on the motor, rx and esc to finish the mock up so I can test is out on the rocks and see if anything else needs modified.
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Old 05-16-2017, 08:15 PM   #27
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Default Re: allanon1965 builds a 6x6

got my Hobby Wing WP1080 ESC today along with the HH TM 35t motor and the HR aluminum scx10 trans case. Now comes the part I am not good at...adding more places to the chassis for mounting the electronics so they dont interfere with the cab...

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Old 05-17-2017, 09:13 PM   #28
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Default Re: allanon1965 builds a 6x6

I got it running and found out the rear axle pushes the middle axle up against the frame when it starts to climb..this is due to the lower links going up to the upper link mounts on the middle axle. I will move them to the frame and that should stop the middle axle issue. The next issue is the VP 8* knuckles, they dont allow for enough turning radius due to the steering arms being so long. They do have a second set of holes closer to the knuckle but I dont like the look it leaves with the arms having a nub sticking out past the link. The Axial High Clearance knuckles have shorter arms and give more throw. I will be mounting these in place of the VP knuckles.
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Old 05-18-2017, 12:46 AM   #29
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I have tried over a dozen rear link set ups and while the complete independent link set up for the mid and rear axles works best, mine keeps pulling the driveshaft apart. I am using the original style axial single spline driveshaft. When I make it long enough not to pull apart, then it binds horribly as the mid and rear axles articulate, if I make it so it doesnt bind then it pulls apart.

I ordered a set of dingo length Junfac driveshafts and will cut one of those down to see if that will fix the issue. I am thinking it will as I see quite a few of these driveshafts on 6x6 builds. I even went so far as to install the original rubber snubbers in the rear shocks thinking that might help but it didnt, although if I also put the snubbers in the mid axle shocks it may do the trick but I think that will limit my articulation way too much.

Last edited by allanon1965; 05-18-2017 at 12:48 AM.
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Old 05-18-2017, 07:17 AM   #30
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Default Re: allanon1965 builds a 6x6

Under load that middle axle will always want to push up a little anyways. Only to one side though. No way to get rid of it completely, it's the torque traveling through the middle axle.
I also went away from attaching the links to the center axle fairly quickly as well. If you have any questions about rear link/suspension setups feel free to ask. I have tried multiple setups
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Old 05-18-2017, 07:21 AM   #31
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Thanks...thats where it stands now, the left side lifts up under a load, but before the whole axle lifted up and stayed up even after the load was gone..
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Old 05-18-2017, 07:40 AM   #32
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Default Re: allanon1965 builds a 6x6

I use the junfac drive shafts on the rear put your links on the chassis and put a brace in between across the chassis

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Old 05-18-2017, 02:41 PM   #33
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I've also had thoughts of ditching the pass through axle. I am currently running a front motor with a center transfercase. The transfercase has dual in and out. I figured running a driveshaft to each axle independently would be the best option. Would either have to run a bearing carrier above the center axle to get it to cleae

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Old 05-18-2017, 03:23 PM   #34
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Thats been done on here as well but I dont like how it looks...
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Old 05-19-2017, 06:13 PM   #35
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I am painting the cab today and so far the green is turning out pretty well...I am not the best painter but it will do.
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Old 05-19-2017, 09:43 PM   #36
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I now have to figure out how I am going to do the flat bed and stake sides... the rx, esc, and battery are temporarily zip tied to the chassis to test it out.. I am thinking about making a pile of lumber for the flat bed that will hold the esc and rx...
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Old 05-20-2017, 08:00 PM   #37
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I got the base of the bed made and attached to the frame with some styrene mounts I made. I put the esc and rx inside the back of the cab and made a styrene battery tray and attached that to the frame with a 2200mah 3s 30c lipo...
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:39 PM   #38
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Working on a front section of the wood bed right behind the cab...
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Old 05-21-2017, 12:44 PM   #39
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well, went to the crawler course, its heavily overgrown now, decided to run the 6x6 anyway...got 5 feet and grass wrapped up in all three axles and snapped the rear transmission output. Bummed, but not too much so..I have a HD aluminum cased, HD steel geared transmission to put in so its all good, just hadn't planned on putting it in this soon..
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Old 05-22-2017, 12:41 PM   #40
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well, I cant get the right look with the 1.55 rock stompers, the axles have to be so far apart for the rear driveshaft to work, it looks out of porportions. I relocated the rear axle and went to 1.9 wheels and tires...
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