Major carnage at white wash!

[jrabenius]

I ended up going out to White Wash (off Candelabria) instead of Rock House - although I don't think it would have mattered . . .

I wasn't there 15 minutes when I heard a snap and noticed I now had three wheel drive!

The Drivers front wheel wasn't turning, and I could hear the axle clicking.

I took a quick look, and noticed the drivers side lower axle C was cracked. Well, I ended up going back home - I knew it wasn't something I could fix out on the rocks.

Here is what I found on closer inspection:



I think the stock Tamiya CVD broke, and when it did it broke the lower axle C. The drive pin on the axle is also sheared off.

So If I were to keep the TLT axle and fix what is broken, I'm looking at a set of Fat Rock axle Cs (if I can find them), or Montana Scale Designs axle Cs ($), and a set of CVD axles - either MIPs or RC4WD. Minimum cost would be just over $100 (per axle).

. . . or . . .

Dump the TLT axles and buy two complete AX-10 axles with hardened lockers for $40 each, and crawl on.

. . . That's a no brainer!

I can't get the Fat rock Cs for the TLT anymore, and the ring and pinion and the axle shafts are weak anyway.

The AX-10 axles are a better, newer design. There was nothing left of my TLT except for the axles anyway.

OH WELL!

I had fun anyway (and it DID take me 4 years to finally break the axle).

John "What's my VISA Limit" Rabenius

[frankenstunk]

Originally Posted by jrabenius

I ended up going out to White Wash (off Candelabria) instead of Rock House - although I don't think it would have mattered . . .

I wasn't there 15 minutes when I heard a snap and noticed I now had three wheel drive!

The Drivers front wheel wasn't turning, and I could hear the axle clicking.

I took a quick look, and noticed the drivers side lower axle C was cracked. Well, I ended up going back home - I knew it wasn't something I could fix out on the rocks.

Here is what I found on closer inspection:



I think the stock Tamiya CVD broke, and when it did it broke the lower axle C. The drive pin on the axle is also sheared off.

So If I were to keep the TLT axle and fix what is broken, I'm looking at a set of Fat Rock axle Cs (if I can find them), or Montana Scale Designs axle Cs ($), and a set of CVD axles - either MIPs or RC4WD. Minimum cost would be just over $100 (per axle).

. . . or . . .

Dump the TLT axles and buy two complete AX-10 axles with hardened lockers for $40 each, and crawl on.

. . . That's a no brainer!

I can't get the Fat rock Cs for the TLT anymore, and the ring and pinion and the axle shafts are weak anyway.

The AX-10 axles are a better, newer design. There was nothing left of my TLT except for the axles anyway.

OH WELL!

I had fun anyway (and it DID take me 4 years to finally break the axle).

John "What's my VISA Limit" Rabenius

I have all the parts you need to make it whole again. PM me if interested.

Welcome to NM. I am glad to see another rig that was built not bought.

[jrabenius]

I have a pretty good assortment of AX-10 and TLT parts and pieces. Maybe we could work out a trade.

Call me on my cell at 919-428-5901

John

[RAM2500]

Nothing like a little cold weather wheeling to find the weakest link in your rig!

[jrabenius]

I'M BAAACK!

I finished rebuilding my TLT - I think I'm going to have to re-name it though. I don't have one TLT part left on it.

I fabbed up some tie rods from Axial 98MM lower links together with an 8MM spacer. Should hold until I can order the correct links.

It has a ProLine Defender (SUZUKI SIDEKICK) body, so maybe I should refer to it as the ZUK.

I'll be out at the scale crawl this weekend!

John