05-31-2008, 08:38 AM | #21 |
RCC Addict Join Date: May 2008 Location: On the rocks
Posts: 985
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idk, i like your list. A little much when you first get started but hey if you got the money to blow then do it lol. Your gonna swap em anyway. Might as well learn different set ups with all your new aftermarket parts. Just remember if you get more points than a stock rtr ax10 dont get pissed, just learn from it. talk to him and you might get some nice tips and tricks. All the above opinions all have great points. Dont for get your gearing, just like JRH says gear down and volt up. Dont forget to play with your wheel weights, shock wts, link trig, electronics positioning, shock positioning, drag brake settings, epa's etc etc. there are many many different setups you can use. Try droop up front and sprung in the rear, a few of my good friends had great luck with that suspension setup on there gatekeeper chassis. Good Luck on your build and make sure you keep us posted. You might be able to part off the rest of that kit on ebay/rcc/rctech etc... |
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05-31-2008, 12:50 PM | #22 |
Newbie Join Date: May 2008 Location: Charlottesville
Posts: 22
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Thanks for the input guys, I'll try and post about the build with pictures in this thread. If I get the comp heavys from Eritex should I get the normal or wide ones? I read about the wheels rubbbing with the rcp knuckles. |
05-31-2008, 07:13 PM | #23 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Rancho Cucamonga
Posts: 520
| comp build
Your set up sounds great! |
06-01-2008, 04:03 PM | #24 |
Newbie Join Date: May 2008 Location: Charlottesville
Posts: 22
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If I get the comp heavys from Eritex should I get the normal or wide ones? I read about the normal wheels rubbbing with the rcp knuckles. Whata are the advanages of of each type (normal vs Wide)? |
06-03-2008, 03:51 PM | #25 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Clarkston, MI
Posts: 661
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Drive with the Axial rims for now, if you like the track width, then go with the normal offset, they are the same. If you feel that you are not sidehilling well enough, then go with the wides. I suggest the normals though.
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06-04-2008, 10:14 AM | #26 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: where fear and common sense don't get in the way
Posts: 451
| Hate to sound repettitive, but the guys are right. I did alot of research and had a list some what like yours when I started my build. I ended up ordering the axles and trans seperate along with the other parts to get it rolling. Your LHS will be able to help out with any hardware you will need for assembly, and the extra money you have you can put towards more upgrades as you find your driving style. Good luck on your build .
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06-04-2008, 10:31 AM | #27 |
Newbie Join Date: May 2008 Location: Charlottesville
Posts: 22
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I know I should have listened to NOVA, at this point I would have to send the ax-10 back pay for shipping then reorder the axles and trans. and pay for shipping again plus the wait would kill me. I'm just going to keep the kit and with the parts I have left over I may build another ax-10 for my 7 yr. old daughter if shes interested. |
06-04-2008, 04:28 PM | #28 |
Newbie Join Date: May 2008 Location: Charlottesville
Posts: 22
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I'm having a couple of second thoughts. Who has experience with the HH Crawlmaster motor can you give me some input? Will it even fit in the gc2 chassis with a VF dig? Do most people perfer a brushed motor like the 7t puller? The rc4wd punisher driveshaft’s how are they? I think I read about people having problems with them. Should I wait on the mip cvd driveshafts or just run the stock ones until they break? What are most people running with my similar setup? Sorry for all the noob questions there is just a lot going thru my mind trying to get everything lined up and ordered. These crawlers are not like 1/8 scale racing kits that I’m use too there is a lot of leeway in building them and I’m not use to that but I look forward to learning. |
06-04-2008, 04:59 PM | #29 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,775
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I'd wait on the MIPs. You can use some Stampede shafts until they come out. Buy the pro pack, it has 6 complete shafts in it. You could also drop the money on E Savage ones or use Maxx shafts but it will require you to bust out a drill and Dremel on your yokes. Just search Maxx shafts in the AX-10 forum. As far as buying just the axles and tranny over the kit, I think the kit really is the better option. Check this out: Axles: 80 Tranny: 35 Yokes: 40 Rear steer kit: 30 Driveshafts: 10 (Axials would be 20) Rear lockouts: ?? Spur gear: 4 Pinion: 4 Thats almost 200 and you still dont have screws and several other piece parts you will need. You can find the kit for $220 and what you dont use you can sell. |
07-11-2008, 07:36 PM | #30 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Garden State
Posts: 298
| Quote:
Last edited by liketocrawl; 07-11-2008 at 07:38 PM. | |
07-11-2008, 09:53 PM | #31 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Kansas city
Posts: 223
| Quote:
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07-11-2008, 10:04 PM | #32 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Kansas City
Posts: 337
| yes...ask 100 people what the best setup is ( shocks,tires,wheels,foams,weight,chassis,electroni cs) and you're bound to get 100 different combinations. Driving style and terrain vary.
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