I'm thinking about getting into this. Yes / No?

[CRAZYACE63]

You are right the pic is of a 2.2 shaft driven rig. It is hard to see but there are shafts and a RC4WD R2 tranny in there.

[knuckleslammer]

thanks man, I'm ready to throw in the towel already. LOL. I won't give up though. When I get into something I'm an info freak, I just need my family to go away for a week so I can read read read and learn.

So it looks like that thing is a complicated rig. I don't yet understand all the parts. However if I could build that frame with shaft driven 1 motor, I'll be happy. I don't want to mess with 2 motors really.

[CRAZYACE63]

Originally Posted by knuckleslammer

thanks man, I'm ready to throw in the towel already. LOL. I won't give up though. When I get into something I'm an info freak, I just need my family to go away for a week so I can read read read and learn.

So it looks like that thing is a complicated rig. I don't yet understand all the parts. However if I could build that frame with shaft driven 1 motor, I'll be happy. I don't want to mess with 2 motors really.

Yes that is a shaft and one motor rig. It is the $300 kit that they have on there site. Do you have anything in the way of rc left at all. like motors or electronics. Because when you get into all that you could spend quite abit.

[MCSCOTT]

Originally Posted by CRAZYACE63

Do you have anything in the way of rc left at all. like motors or electronics. Because when you get into all that you could spend quite abit.

X2
I know that you say you're not worried about money, but the $500 range honestly doesn't get you too far towards a bulletproof rig, so if you have some of the electronics to get you started you would be money ahead. I figured you were talking about the super class rigs because you mention stage 1 and 2, and those are both supers. The other setup is listed as a 2.2, and you could basically use that chassis with any axles. The AX10 axles are the best out right now for the money and for parts. If the Hustler in the pic you posted is 2.2 class then he's done fab work to narrow the axles to fit into the class.

Don't throw in the towel, we're all kinda throwin too much information at you all at once. Simply slow down and take some time to browse around the forum here at all the different categories. After reading for about a week or so, you should know almost exactly what parts you want to use to build a rig.

[knuckleslammer]

I have a soldering iron. HAHA

That's it. With the losi buggies, it was such a miserable experience with parts chasing constantly that when I sold it, I gave the guy everything.

Now the reason I'm hung up on that particular one is I mainly like the look of it. I'm sort of whacky like that. I have been looking at the

[MCSCOTT]

I know what you mean, that's why I've been searching for weeks for my next tuber idea and haven't come up with anything yet. I keep mentioning AX10 axles, because right now they are the absolute easiest to get, and easiest to make bullet proof axles as far as a 2.2 shaft rig goes. The AX10 transmission is also good, so you could basically build it with easily available parts.

Here's one of the threads from the AX10 section that might interest you....
Axial AX-10 Hustler Build

There are several more if you go to Advanced Search and put in Hustler Chassis, and highlight the Axial AX10 section in the list.

[legion1capone]

Just remember Axial AX10 and you'll be good! lol

[CRAZYACE63]

For motor and ESC I recomend a Holmes hobbies 1000kv outrunner brushless and one of the Castle Esc's. I have that motor and a Mamba Max and with the help of the PC link you can set it up for tons of options. Radio I would go the 2.4ghz route. That way you don't have to worry about glitching and losing signal.

[knuckleslammer]

Yeah I have no idea what I'm doing, as mentioned. If I can't get something like that, I've been drooling over this as well.

[/URL]


I just spent 1700 on a national triolian resonator guitar and I have another national resonator on order a custom that was lots of money, so I'm sort of shut off for a while, HONK HONK per the wife, so I'm planning ahead. As of now I'm broke, but once I figure out what I want, I'll perhaps kill someone, steal their wallet, rob a bank, or sell some meth

Kidding of course. No i'm not. . I always get what I want, even if I'm broke at first. I'll figure out a way. Ultimately what I'd love to do is have a full aluminum rig.

I figure it like this

500 for a roller 150 for a motor and speed controller 150 for a battery and charger, 150 for a radio. So I figure for around $1000 I can get something really cool, or am I way off?

I forget that I spent like $5000 on this hobby last time around :( and all those piece of crap Losi buggies did was break. Problem after problem. That's why I got out of it.

[MCSCOTT]

You're close.

My personal list would read a little different though...
$500 for a roller maybe, but most likely you can get one cheaper in the 2.2 class. $500 though would get you a really good setup.

$120 for a steering servo Hi Tech 7955
$130 for a ESC Mamba Max
$80 for a motor 7t Cobalt
$320 for a radio DX3R (Best there is for a 2.2 other than maybe the 4PK)
$130 for Hyperion charger
and then figure the batteries around $30-$50 per pack depending on which way you go.

Not too far off from where you started, and really gets you in really good shape for the hobby. You can put up to 30 different r/c vehicles on that one radio. It can be done much cheaper depending on how you want to start though.

[CRAZYACE63]

I have teh DX3R also and it rocks. I run about ten cars right now and when I build my next ten they will be on their also. JRH from holmes hobbies has some nice 2300 packs that he is getting cheap. I think he is selling them at 10 dollars a cell. I am ordering two at the moment. Check out the cheap a123 battery post on the new post listing.

[knuckleslammer]

10 Cars? Christ. I'd probably have 10 too though, if it weren't for my guitar addiction.

What do you guys think about the copperhead?

[MCSCOTT]

Originally Posted by knuckleslammer

10 Cars? Christ. I'd probably have 10 too though, if it weren't for my guitar addiction.

What do you guys think about the copperhead?

Personally I like the Copperhead much better than the Hustler. I was going to go that route on my next tuber build, but the motors I run are a little too long for the chassis. There's also the issue of the way the rear driveshafts hook up to the tranny. It might not be too bad though with a tranny that takes up a little more room length wise.

[downtown]

This is only MY .02...and will probably be argued a lil.

I would start with a MOA rig...
You seem like you have a pretty good background in R/C, You will probably be happier with that set up.

Tuber?
I started with an Axial(for 2 weeks) wasnt the happiest I thought I could be.. Good rig, just needed some work..
Graduated it to a DMG tuber.. I really liked the looks. Same performance issues tho(very minor gripes)...
Turned the usable parts to a MOA setup, and never looked back..
I personally like the perfomance of the MOA's.

Bottom line tho... a lot of $$$ to figure out what I liked..
Do a little bit of research here on RCC before you make the final decision.

[knuckleslammer]

great so the copperhead has issues with the way the tranny attaches?

Alright, what's an MOA?

Yeah I been doing this crap all my life. I spend endless money, break endless parts, come to my senses and sell everything.

Well I'm back

That sucks because that copperhead looks like a slick rig.

[MCSCOTT]

The issues aren't huge as far as the tranny, and if you ran a dig transmission it would set the rear driveshaft mount back further, so it may turn out great.

MOA = Motor On Axle

In away I agree with what downtown said as far as MOA rigs being better, but in another way there are alot of comp winners that still argue the point. Personally I look at it as follows......

For a rig that I'm not going to do competitions with, just for having fun, I want something that is as close to scale as it can get without being a full blown scale build. In that I like the shafties, which also only need one motor.
For a comp rig, I wouldn't have anything but a MOA setup now that there are so many Bergs out there. These have two motors, which allows you to set them up for much better control of the rig.

Like I say man, just take some time to read around here and see what people say about each brand, and also how they're building them to get some ideas.

[knuckleslammer]

Jesus what a noob I am. What's a scale build?


yeah it will be a few before I decide anyhow, I got all day tomorrow to read at work 9 hours. HONK HONK.

So what's the issue with the tranny on that thing? looks like it's got a shaft that sticks way out and that the drive shaft is at a flaky angle? Is that the problem?

So I could get the copperhead and swap out the tranny for the one you mentioned?

I'm not doing competitions, no interest, no time. I'm just bashing basically, but I want something that goes together without having to hack. I hack all day at work on computers. I just want a nice build that I can take my time with and not have to break out the frign dremel to get the sh*t to fit together. That pisses me off.

If there's an issue with the copperhead, why don't they rectify it? That also pisses me off. I don't mind spending money if I get a quality product that builds, fits and is happy.

[legion1capone]

He's just being observant. It looks like an awesome truck to start with. I'd go with the copperhead or diablo chassis build.
I think many will agree for the price the Tekin FXR ESC and 55T or 45T motor combo would be a good start.
I also had mentioned to him earlier the TQ3 for a cheap controller. That way he can spend his money on upgrades for the rig. But like mentioned before the Spectrum DX3R is an awesome controller!

[MCSCOTT]

If you're on the RC4WD site looking at that Copperhead pic you posted, and look at that shaft coming back. To me that's a fairly weak looking setup, but that's using a standard R2 transmission. Then, go to transmissions and scroll down to the R2D. You can see how with that transmission where the rear driveshaft mounts is back further, so that may work better in my opinion. With the R2D you get the ability to run the rig in 4wd, front wheel drive, or lock the rear where the front is pulling but the rear is locked down to help you turn sharp. It would be a great setup that way, but I'm sure for you right now that is getting confusing.

We could ramble on for hours going over different setups, and there was a recent build on one of those copperheads where he went with different driveshafts that would clear the skid better. As long as you look around alot on here you will get a better idea of what all I've been talking about, and also have a better idea of what all you want out of your crawler.

[sydneysdad]

hey knuckleslammer come check us out at nercc.net
we're having a comp at lincoln woods (i think it's about 45 mins south from worcester) on sat the 15th,
you can check out all the rc's and chat with us.. and maybe it'll help you decide on what type of truck you want...