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Thread: Lowering COG Help Needed

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Old 04-07-2009, 12:11 PM   #41
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I wasnt sure if I should post the pics or the hyperlinks to the pics, so I posted the pics. Let me know if this is the right way to post pics. If the pics are to small you can click on the pic and it will bring up a bigger pic.





I removed the battery plate. Should I take off the black braces that the battery plated was connected to and what do I do with my antenna now that I have removed the battery plate?
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Old 04-07-2009, 12:22 PM   #42
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Looking good. If it doenst glitch with the antenna like it is i would just leave it. I had a antenna tube ziptied across the top of mine.

If you have some longer links to put in place were the battery plate things were, you could switch them out.
Looks like its testing time. I would run it a while, see if it does what you want. If not let us all know!!
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Old 04-07-2009, 12:29 PM   #43
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Quote:
My COG is still high, my crawler wont stay on its side. Any additional ideas on how I can lower my crawlers COG?
You can turn the shocks over to put the weight of the shock body lower. Also bigger tires help with being able to sit on it side because of having a bigger sidewall. Though that will raise you cog up a tad and you will have to lower the skid back down some. Also what is your skid height set up too. Most here in NC run 3" of ground clearance because of the terrain.

There is not much more you can do man. Your on the right track.

PS: you will love the 4" Losi shocks over the stock ones.
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Old 04-07-2009, 04:00 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by rottenbelly View Post
Looking good. If it doenst glitch with the antenna like it is i would just leave it. I had a antenna tube ziptied across the top of mine.

If you have some longer links to put in place were the battery plate things were, you could switch them out.
Looks like its testing time. I would run it a while, see if it does what you want. If not let us all know!!
I used the links that came with my link kit to replace the battery holder brace.

What should my crawler be able to do on the rocks(go up a 45 degree incline)?

I will test out the crawler today and this weekend when i am off from work. Thanks for your help.
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Old 04-07-2009, 04:05 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by j33pownr View Post
You can turn the shocks over to put the weight of the shock body lower. Also bigger tires help with being able to sit on it side because of having a bigger sidewall. Though that will raise you cog up a tad and you will have to lower the skid back down some. Also what is your skid height set up too. Most here in NC run 3" of ground clearance because of the terrain.

There is not much more you can do man. Your on the right track.

PS: you will love the 4" Losi shocks over the stock ones.
If i turn my shocks over will that make my shocks more likely to leak?
Plus, the bent links in the rear get in the way of me flipping the shocks. Any way i can correct this problem?

i havent measured my skid height (i will later today), but it looks like 3 inches.

Cant wait to get my Losi shocks
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Old 04-08-2009, 10:55 AM   #46
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[quote=MattH;1720175]You're off to a good start.

Try adding stick-on weight to the inside of your wheels. You'll have to take the rims apart, but it's well worth the effort. Add 7 oz. to each front rim and 2 oz. to each rear rim. Some guys use far more weight, but this place to start.


a better way to do this is by putting small ball bearings in the rim insted of weights. this way you will always have the weight of the bearings at the bottom of the tire as they move.
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Old 04-08-2009, 06:30 PM   #47
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[quote=meaney;1726089]
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattH View Post
You're off to a good start.

Try adding stick-on weight to the inside of your wheels. You'll have to take the rims apart, but it's well worth the effort. Add 7 oz. to each front rim and 2 oz. to each rear rim. Some guys use far more weight, but this place to start.


a better way to do this is by putting small ball bearings in the rim insted of weights. this way you will always have the weight of the bearings at the bottom of the tire as they move.
i have already added weights to my crawlers rims. Thanks for the tip and replying to my post.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:41 AM   #48
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Anyone with any additional hints or tips to help lower my crawlers COG or improve its performance in general
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:24 PM   #49
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all the main points are covered in this thread....

alluminum rims, split packs, re-mounting electronics, susp. and link geo. when understood and applied to any crawler, increases capabilities.

then its all trial and error, drilling, dremmeling fabbing and beer!
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:42 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by BEELZEBOB View Post
all the main points are covered in this thread....

alluminum rims, split packs, re-mounting electronics, susp. and link geo. when understood and applied to any crawler, increases capabilities.

then its all trial and error, drilling, dremmeling fabbing and beer!
I took my crawler out today and was surprised at how much better it crawled over rocks. I was able to go over rocks that had stopped me previously. I just have to be careful of what line I take due to the lower COG. Now I am considering getting taller tires to raise my ground clearance. My question is will this mess uo my COG?
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Old 04-09-2009, 04:41 PM   #51
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It will change your COG. MIght not completely mess it up, but will change it. The one thing with crawling is change one thing at a time, test. If you like like it leave it alone, if you don't change one more thing. Test repeat. You will soon learn that you can't tune a rig to do everything perfect. It will do climbing well, but not so good on break over stuff. Change something and now you can't climb but will do break overs. That is why you will see guys with two sets of rims and tires, another set of shocks. They will change for comp location or even per course. It took me about 4-5 months to get my shafty dialed where I needed it. One other important thing to remember is to tune your rig to your driving style and rocks, only you know how to do that. I think most people overlook that. Good luck, happy tinkering and welcome to the crack addiction!!!
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Old 04-09-2009, 06:00 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THnCS View Post
It will change your COG. MIght not completely mess it up, but will change it. The one thing with crawling is change one thing at a time, test. If you like like it leave it alone, if you don't change one more thing. Test repeat. You will soon learn that you can't tune a rig to do everything perfect. It will do climbing well, but not so good on break over stuff. Change something and now you can't climb but will do break overs. That is why you will see guys with two sets of rims and tires, another set of shocks. They will change for comp location or even per course. It took me about 4-5 months to get my shafty dialed where I needed it. One other important thing to remember is to tune your rig to your driving style and rocks, only you know how to do that. I think most people overlook that. Good luck, happy tinkering and welcome to the crack addiction!!!
Thanks for the reply. Guess I have to get used to my crawler not being able to be evrything all the time. Have to do like you said and get more parts to set my crawler up for different terrain. Guess this is why they call it an addicition. you never get enough of attempting to perfect your crawler
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Old 04-10-2009, 04:59 PM   #53
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Here are some pics of what my crawler is able to do after the upgrades suggested in this thread.





I couldnt video with one hand and drive with the other so I just took pic at the top of the rock.
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