I like the Traxxas Big Bore shocks"thumbsup". The Losi shocks are nice if you can keep them from leaking.

How do you run front and rear digs with just 3 channels on an AX10?...as per his question.

i just hate how mine are all ways coming unscrewed so thanks

Oh sorry, I guess I didnt read it correctly :oops:

I've looked around a little this evening, but haven't found the answer to my question about battery voltage. I understand on the AX10 that I've been looking at, 7.2 is the standard voltage required. Please explain, what is the purpose (and advantage/benefit) of running higher voltage like 8.4 or 9.6? Assuming "volting up" is a good thing, what's the catch? What's the downside?

Thanks.
\oo/_ :twisted: _\oo/

Adding more voltage increases the wheelspeed, and overall power"thumbsup". Downside, brushed motors will wear faster, and you lose some low speed resolution.

"Resolution" is control, yes? How much one must move their finger on the trigger?

Could you run a lower gear to combat the wheel speed increase? I like the idea of a slow, controlled crawl. Is it just best to stick to manufacturer specs?

\oo/_ :twisted: _\oo/
n.

Yes, the better the resolution, the finer control you have when creeping. You can also achieve a better "feel" by dialing in some exponential on your radio(if it has that feature) or on some ESC's(Castle stuff) with the throttle curve. But ultimately, a 2 cell will creep better than a 3 cell on the same setup, and if you don't need the wheelspeed and prefer to crawl, you can stick with that. Also, you can run a higher turn motor with the higher voltage, and get the same crawl with longer runtimes 8)
.

Anyone bend servo horns as much as is do? any recc's for one stronger than the losi ones I ruin??

I understand "exponential" and "throttle curve" but can you further define "2 cells" and "3 cells"? I know you're talking batteries, but I only know about splitting battery packs to ride on the axles... Is that what you mean? (and aren't those generally six cells split into two groups of three?)

\oo/_ :twisted: _\oo/
n.

NiMH or nickle metal hydride batteries have historically been built into 6 cell packs. These guys are talking about LiPo or Lithium Polimer batteries which require a different charger, balancer (to balance the cells to each other) and I reccomend a LIPO sack as they are pretty unstable as they charge (no more than 1Amp per 1000 miliamp of capacity in the general rule) and have been known to catch on fire. The "cells) are flat like a cell phone battery and built at the manufacturer and should not be taken apart. Each cell is 3.7v as most common ESC's are for 7.4v 2 cell lipo's are most common in RC racing. Three cell bumps the voltage to 11.1v and there are now many esc's that can handle this but you must check your manual. Hope this helps...

Thanks, guys. Good stuff here.

\oo/_ :twisted: _\oo/
n.

Alright, I'm back with another dumb question...

What's the deal with after market chassis? I understand there's more adjustability and some are narrower, but does it really make that much of a difference? I know there must be, because it's the first or second major mod for most threads I read but no one talks about the differences...

So what are they?

\oo/_ :twisted: _\oo/
n.

This is the one I have been running and love it!

http://www.racers-edge.com/product_p/rce10380bk.htm

Not sure which one you need though, here is the list.....

http://www.racers-edge.com/Servo_Hor...e_com_s/59.htm

Everything you mentioned plus the shocks, links and link geometry they are set up for. "thumbsup"

Newb Here.

Used to drive rc10's along time ago. Just got a ax10 rtc. So far fairly impressed. I vented the rims and added weights. Need to work on relocating the battery forward. any other tips for a newb?

Yeah adding weight and moving that battery as far forward and low as possible are the best free mods you can do.


Changing out the plastic links to the aluminum will help both performance and durability.

Anything dealing with the electronics will be an upgrade. Any Servo, ESC, Motor, Battery, will all be a vast improvement over the stock equipment.

I would get a set of Rovers. They are lass than $13 a pair at TCS. Probably the best tire available and the cheapest to.

Took a hard hit and stripped a gear today"thumbsup". The culprit is the small gear on a shaft with a hole for a drive pin. The 2 small gears look so similar I don't know which to order, can't find any diagrams, I NEED THE ONE further from the motor

Wheels Rub Shocks.
 

Just got Mayhems for my berg and now my tires rub my shock springs in the front at full lock. Is this normal? Should I fix it?

Not a big deal I guess but it pops the spring off the bottom cap. I think I'm going to wire the spring to the cap. Hmn.. do they make some kind of captured spring cap?

-Eric

i have a ?? what size of wire are most people using for the electrical part of your build?? I have tried working with 12g but is a bugger to solder. thinking about 16g cause that is the size on my 3c lipo battery.. thanks

one other thing this is a burg build with 2ea fxr esc.

I use 14g for everything. If you can't solder 12g easily, try a cleaner tip and a hotter iron, file or grind the tip to a small chisel and always tin the work well before you try to make the joint!!