Adopt a newbie todaayy!!!

[picklewagon]

Originally Posted by Airick

Just got Mayhems for my berg and now my tires rub my shock springs in the front at full lock. Is this normal? Should I fix it?

Not a big deal I guess but it pops the spring off the bottom cap. I think I'm going to wire the spring to the cap. Hmn.. do they make some kind of captured spring cap?

-Eric

I have mayhems and have the same issue so I set the endpoints on my transmitter to stop just before they touch, my issue was the tires would run on the spring adjuster and tighten/loosen the spring preload. Now when the wheels are full lock, and tires are flexed over during a crawl, they touch a little but no biggie. I'm planning on installing a 2nd set of spring adjustment nuts and tightening them against each other so they won't move. I've used a drop of ca on spring cups before to secure to the cups to shock end but only a drop so you can break the seal easily to remove them!

[mebo1990]

this might be a late response but im a complete noob and i could do with all the advice and tips i can get!

i realise ive probably bought a really bad rig but like i said im a complete noob. ive got a 1/8th scale HSP crawler and i just want 2 know what are the general first things 2 do 2 setup ur rig. So far ive only found one thing i dont like and thats the steering angles. It takes almost an entire backyard 2 turn around! any advice?

thanks

[Colby]

Servo, servo horn, and the steering arm leading to the servo makes a big difference when setting one up. Post up some pics of what ya got

[samaruki]

thanks for the advice. I think i am going to try 16g for the lightness and easy to work with.

When i was trying to solder the 12g to dean connector i also was soldering a ccbec to the same. and it was a bugger to get everything to stay put and add solder at the same time.

[TLTRyan]

Originally Posted by samaruki

thanks for the advice. I think i am going to try 16g for the lightness and easy to work with.

When i was trying to solder the 12g to dean connector i also was soldering a ccbec to the same. and it was a bugger to get everything to stay put and add solder at the same time.

I think you will be fine using the 16g wire. I used 16g in my Berg with Dual FXR's, 55t's and 11.1V Lipo. The wires never got warm.

[samaruki]

thanks for the info..

I am going to experiment with 16g to try to get the weight down and ease of soldering....

when i was trying the 12g i was soldering that and my ccbec to a deans connector and was having a hard time getting everything to stay steady until it set. I got a better soldering iron and it worked much better. I noticed that when you apply a little solder to the iron while getting things up to temperature that you get way more heat transfer.. I also got me a heat gun.

[jnev]

I read through this whole thread, so I hope I didn't miss it anywhere. I read that you (Colby) was a 45 turn motor is front and a 55 turn motor in rear as well as different pinion tooth counts. If I remember correctly, this is to avoid whats called clod stall correct? What exactly is clod stall? I would ideally like to run dual 55 turn motors, but I don't mind running different pinion tooth counts. Coming from a brushless 1/8 scale truck background, I know bigger pinions mean more speed. But when it comes to crawlers, how does going up or down on the pinion tooth count only on the front or on the rear affect the truck. Would you usually want more speed for the front wheels or rear?

Any info is appreciated. Thanks in advance! ;)

[mebo1990]

cool thanks, any advice on a particular brands i should check out?

[farmerstoy]

hey I'm a newb here but i have a tmaxx, a nitro stampede and a almost-complete tmaxx parts truck. i really want to build a lower grade scaler truck with the parts i have. i plan on making the frame myself, most likely leaf sprung, making things is no problem when i go back to school i have a machine shop to use. any advice when building one of these? and any tips on making half-ass solid axles from my tmaxx centers? thanks!

[picklewagon]

Anyone running their berg with high clearance knuckles, non BTA, with a good link setup?? If so can you post a pic?? It's the real weak link of my rig and I'm looking for ideas! Thanks! Measurements would be awesome as well, but I know I'm asking alot!

[TLTRyan]

Originally Posted by farmerstoy

hey I'm a newb here but i have a tmaxx, a nitro stampede and a almost-complete tmaxx parts truck. i really want to build a lower grade scaler truck with the parts i have. i plan on making the frame myself, most likely leaf sprung, making things is no problem when i go back to school i have a machine shop to use. any advice when building one of these? and any tips on making half-ass solid axles from my tmaxx centers? thanks!

I would check out the maxx section of the forum. Lots of info on convertng them into solid axle.

Originally Posted by mebo1990

cool thanks, any advice on a particular brands i should check out?

I have had great luck with my Hobbico cs-170. It's a rebadged hitec.

[Colby]

Originally Posted by picklewagon

Anyone running their berg with high clearance knuckles, non BTA, with a good link setup?? If so can you post a pic?? It's the real weak link of my rig and I'm looking for ideas! Thanks! Measurements would be awesome as well, but I know I'm asking alot!

Cant help you there buddy. Im running BTA/OTA and stock axial knuckles until I can get some new berg knuckles.

Thanks to all who are helping out, Ive been real busy trying to get my junk to work for this southern cup going on. I will be back to helpin noobs shortly

[mebo1990]

thanks heaps TLTRyan. ill wait until im allowed to see the classifieds on here and see if there are any for sale

[Rockcrawler]

Originally Posted by jnev

I read through this whole thread, so I hope I didn't miss it anywhere. I read that you (Colby) was a 45 turn motor is front and a 55 turn motor in rear as well as different pinion tooth counts. If I remember correctly, this is to avoid whats called clod stall correct? What exactly is clod stall? I would ideally like to run dual 55 turn motors, but I don't mind running different pinion tooth counts. Coming from a brushless 1/8 scale truck background, I know bigger pinions mean more speed. But when it comes to crawlers, how does going up or down on the pinion tooth count only on the front or on the rear affect the truck. Would you usually want more speed for the front wheels or rear?

Any info is appreciated. Thanks in advance! ;)

Correct. You can run different pinions, different motors or both to help counter act clod stall.

You will get clod stall with any MOA rig. When you are powering 2 motors (one front axle and one rear axle), the motor with the most resistance (usually the rear because of climbs) is going to try to stall. Running a higher turn motor will help this because usually, the higher the turns, the more torque. Its the same with the pinions, the smaller the pinion, the more torque.

Speed is not really the reason for running the smaller gears as I stated above, it for the torque. But in any case, you do want the front turning faster than the rear. Just like in 1/8 scales (I use to race buggys and truggys) you never want the rear end pushing the front end. You always want the front end to pull the truck. This is especially true in crawling. When going up a hill, you do not want the rear end trying to push the front. Keeping the front end a little faster will help keep the front end planted.

[Colby]

Jeff made a good point. I run the 55t in the rear of my truck, and a 45t in the front. When i juice it on flat ground, you can see the front drag the rear just slightly. Also when i climb my front spins 1x faster while the rear is not stalling. I keep alot of weight in the front of my rig, and with that fast spinning of the front it keeps it planted and goes right up the obstacle

[slimeball]

official Berg newb here..

Ok, so I bought a used Berg..I went from a digless AX10 Eclipse to a Berg so, I have no clue about digs on a Berg,,

From what I gather I have Front wheel spin and rear wheel spin (the opposite axle brakes of course)..so no freewheel?..or do I just got terminology wrong.?

also what are the weak points as far as the Axles are concerned? I can pretty much get anything else from my LHS, but anything for the axles I will need to order...so what parts would you recommend I keep on hand or order in advance?

[Colby]

official Berg newb here..

Ok, so I bought a used Berg..I went from a digless AX10 Eclipse to a Berg so, I have no clue about digs on a Berg,,

From what I gather I have Front wheel spin and rear wheel spin (the opposite axle brakes of course)..so no freewheel?..or do I just got terminology wrong.?
No free wheel on the berg. Front dig shorts out the rear motor to cause it to stop moving, and it essentially locks the rear tires. Vise versa with rear dig.

also what are the weak points as far as the Axles are concerned? I can pretty much get anything else from my LHS, but anything for the axles I will need to order...so what parts would you recommend I keep on hand or order in advance?

To be honest, I have run my berg since january and still have not broken anything on my axles. However, if you do not lock tite everything, the bolts in your knuckles will come out and bend your knuckles, and when you try to bend them back they will screw up the way they mount and turn. Also do not forget to grease up them gears, and you will be fine

[mebo1990]

hey again. like i mentioned before i bought a HSP 1/8scale crawler and im a total noob to everything basically. So far all ive changed is the battery from a 2000Mah to a 3000Mah. Next on my list is a new servo, servo horn which i should be buying next weekend. its a "hitec" brand servo (not sure on the exact model). Next thing i want to upgrade is the motors. Basically once i hit something steep i run out of power and i really want more power! Ive been looking on youtube and this forum and im looking at getting dual novak 55T brushed motoros. Please feel free to tell me if this is a mistake cause i need all the help i can get! Thanks

[jnev]

Originally Posted by Rockcrawler

Correct. You can run different pinions, different motors or both to help counter act clod stall.

You will get clod stall with any MOA rig. When you are powering 2 motors (one front axle and one rear axle), the motor with the most resistance (usually the rear because of climbs) is going to try to stall. Running a higher turn motor will help this because usually, the higher the turns, the more torque. Its the same with the pinions, the smaller the pinion, the more torque.

Speed is not really the reason for running the smaller gears as I stated above, it for the torque. But in any case, you do want the front turning faster than the rear. Just like in 1/8 scales (I use to race buggys and truggys) you never want the rear end pushing the front end. You always want the front end to pull the truck. This is especially true in crawling. When going up a hill, you do not want the rear end trying to push the front. Keeping the front end a little faster will help keep the front end planted.

Perfect explanation. Thank you very much.

[mebo1990]

ok i dont know what happened to my reply before but i was just wondering if the novak 55T brushed motors would be a good investment for my crawler? im really lacking power on inclines.