Adopt a newbie todaayy!!!

[picklewagon]

Originally Posted by mebo1990

ok i dont know what happened to my reply before but i was just wondering if the novak 55T brushed motors would be a good investment for my crawler? im really lacking power on inclines.

I have one in my axial. It can really creep with such a high wind but the only issue I have is it seems like too much torque sometimes. I would run a 45t.

[mebo1990]

Originally Posted by picklewagon

I have one in my axial. It can really creep with such a high wind but the only issue I have is it seems like too much torque sometimes. I would run a 45t.

Ok thanks picklewagon. What is the general price range for one?

[mebo1990]

oh and also ill be runnig dual motors, that will be fine running 2 right?

[slimeball]

Originally Posted by ColbyTheKid

..... Also do not forget to grease up them gears, and you will be fine

thanks Colby

before I just start taking the axles apart..is there a basic guide on what and where to grease..also just use regular ol' black axle grease?

Also I have seen "motor gaurds" are these handmade or can you buy them? and no, I am not worried about scratches...just the connections getting jacked up.

*edit...I snipped the quote, but these Q' are in regards to a Berg!

[picklewagon]

Originally Posted by mebo1990

oh and also ill be runnig dual motors, that will be fine running 2 right?

From what I've seen, 45t motors are the most common with 2 motors (moa) seems to be what all the guys are running around here. Like I said, have a 55 novak on my axial but on my berg I've got 2 35t brood motors. Now we are really confused...If I were you, and you are not made of $$ I would buy 2 machine wound 45t motors and see how you like the power...you need more wheelspin, buy 2 hand wound 35t and save the 45t for spares...you need more torque buy 2 handwound 55t (less common) and save 45s for spares, if you love everything about the 45's just run them and when you wear them out, replace them with handwounds... This is just my opinion but I carry a lot of spares for all my rc's. Dont ask how many 27t motors I own from racing pre-brushless touring cars!!! Shoebox. thats all I'm saying.

[Colby]

Originally Posted by slimeball

thanks Colby

before I just start taking the axles apart..is there a basic guide on what and where to grease..also just use regular ol' black axle grease?

Also I have seen "motor gaurds" are these handmade or can you buy them? and no, I am not worried about scratches...just the connections getting jacked up.

*edit...I snipped the quote, but these Q' are in regards to a Berg!

No basic guide, just put a few lines on each gear and your fine. Also, I beleive a vendor here on rcc makes some sweet gear covers, may do a quick search and find em

[mebo1990]

oook right. well since im totally noobalicious could you explain the difference between a normal motor and a handwound? does hand wound mean rebuilt? And in general how long does a 45t last. ill be crawlin 4/5 days a week and about 1/2 hours a day. Thanks

[Colby]

Well, I am noobalicious when it comes to handwounds, but integy 45t motors wont last long at all. Im on my 3rd one...

[eron]

handwounds are, well, handwound

They have a lot more torque also. Talk to JohnRobHolmes about them.

[Reflection]

I've got a couple of Johns handwounds. Compared to a machine wound or Integy motor,there is a good deal of difference. Better magnets,bigger comms,better brushes and the winds are simply put....a piece of art work.

Add all that up and put them against a regular ol' lathe motor from Integy or Novak....there's no comparison. I can't speak for other handwound performance since I haven't ran any personally. I've seen them work and they seem to do a good job.

All that being said,I do currently run 35t Integy's in my Burg. Mainly because I didn't have the extra cash to buy 2 handwounds when I built the thing. I also don't have 2 matching arms for a handwound. The Integy's do work,there's no question. BUT,I can tell a big difference in power. The Integy's fall on their face when bound up where the handwounds would wake up and haul the mail.


Longevity,with any motor,depends on the abuse and maintenance it's given. A quality handwound will last longer,IF it's maintained properly. The 35t Integy in my front axle,goes through a set of brushes every couple months. The Integy 35t in my rear axle,is still running the same brushes it came with.

I use front dig allot,that'll wear the front brushes more. I run through a little mud/water and sand at times and never clean them,that'll wear them out faster. I've never trued the comms,that'll excelerate brush wear. Higher voltage and a heavier rig will also wear things out faster.

[picklewagon]

OK bergers, here's two for you...In my search for steering links I've decided to go BTA with a product that is suppost to "work best with vanquish knuckles". I can't find vanquish knuckles for berg so is it safe to assume they are running the ones for an axial???
#2...I think I'm going to clock front and rear 20deg with jeepin dougs clock jig he sells. Is there a good way to make the correct size links after clocking to make her work?? Thanks for any input on this.
EXTRA question...after crawling, I was driving my F-250 in San Francisco traffic and some dipshit slammed the brakes on, wouldn't get out of my way, double parked on Valencia st. I reached for my front dig switch to get around him without backing up and realized I was in my f-250. Do I have a problem? Should I see a Shrink?

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by picklewagon

OK bergers, here's two for you...In my search for steering links I've decided to go BTA with a product that is suppost to "work best with vanquish knuckles". I can't find vanquish knuckles for berg so is it safe to assume they are running the ones for an axial???
#2...I think I'm going to clock front and rear 20deg with jeepin dougs clock jig he sells. Is there a good way to make the correct size links after clocking to make her work?? Thanks for any input on this.
EXTRA question...after crawling, I was driving my F-250 in San Francisco traffic and some dipshit slammed the brakes on, wouldn't get out of my way, double parked on Valencia st. I reached for my front dig switch to get around him without backing up and realized I was in my f-250. Do I have a problem? Should I see a Shrink?

Look into the CDW steering kit in the vendors section or the Berg section. He's got a OTA steering kit that is designed for a clocked axle and Vanquish knuckles. It's a piece of art work and works awesome.

[samaruki]

I have a THUNDER A6 charger and a HYPERION CX g3 lipo battery 3S/1300mah

Why do HYPERION battery balance connector have a space between the last black wire?? and should i get a special adapter or is it ok to just move the one black wire over next to the other ones and trim the connector to fit into the balance 3c slot on my charger?

the HYPERION ballance connector have 5ea pins inster of 4ea pins.

[kendor]

Thanks

Originally Posted by TLTRyan

Yeah adding weight and moving that battery as far forward and low as possible are the best free mods you can do.


Changing out the plastic links to the aluminum will help both performance and durability.

Anything dealing with the electronics will be an upgrade. Any Servo, ESC, Motor, Battery, will all be a vast improvement over the stock equipment.

I would get a set of Rovers. They are lass than $13 a pair at TCS. Probably the best tire available and the cheapest to.

[TLTRyan]

Originally Posted by samaruki

I have a THUNDER A6 charger and a HYPERION CX g3 lipo battery 3S/1300mah

Why do HYPERION battery balance connector have a space between the last black wire?? and should i get a special adapter or is it ok to just move the one black wire over next to the other ones and trim the connector to fit into the balance 3c slot on my charger?

the HYPERION ballance connector have 5ea pins inster of 4ea pins.

I have done similar. Only I was using a Hyperion Balancer and Align style Tap. I had to move the black wire on the charger side and trim the Align style tap slightly.

I'm unfamiliar with the connector on your charger so I can't say for sure if it would work. The Hyperion style tap is pretty common so I would think someone makes an adapter.

[picklewagon]

Originally Posted by Reflection

Look into the CDW steering kit in the vendors section or the Berg section. He's got a OTA steering kit that is designed for a clocked axle and Vanquish knuckles. It's a piece of art work and works awesome.

Yup, that is the kit I saw at the local crawl spot, the ones I'll order if he PM's me back! The question I still have is if it uses Vanquish knuckles made for an Axial as thats all I can find available from vanquish!

[AzBlue.45]

I'm totally new to this Rc hobby. I want to get into Rc rock crawling. I had an offer from a guy who wants to trade his Axial 10 Scorpion for my Xbox 360. Here's what he said his crawler has...

"it comes with after market high Clarence tie rods brushless esc has the upgraded losi super soft rock claws tires metal high tork servo aluminum front shocks with threaded body has a integy rock crawler motor upgraded pinon and and spur gear a charger futaba remote extra tires stock and an extra motor your choice all this is worth easy $450 just the esc is $200."

Oh and he said he would throw in a brand new Lipo battery. It looks like its in good conditon. I have no idea if this is a good trade or not? He said I can try it out before we trade. I would be trading a perfect condition Xbox 360 w/ 20 gb hard drive, 2 wireless controller, 1 charge n' play kit, and 2 games. Please if anyone can help me that would be great! Thanks!

[picklewagon]

:-(

Originally Posted by fuyutime2

i thought this was adopt a oob, not talk random stuff

I'm 6'3" and 230lbs, no one wanted to carry me around so I can't get adopted out. :-(

[themichavo]

i just ordered a duratrax cliff climber and need help clocking the axles. i don't know how to build my own links:?

[samaruki]

is Kamikaze Kustoms out ot business:-(

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195344