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Old 06-08-2009, 09:19 AM   #1
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Default Motor specs.....

Ok 35t, 45t, 50t, 55t.......What does it translate to? I think it is less speed and more torque as the number goes up.....Soif that is the case the higher number the better????

Also handwound vs I guess machine wound? Pro and cons of that too....


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Old 06-08-2009, 11:51 AM   #2
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The numbers refer to the number of turns of wire on each pole of the rotor. To get more turns on, the wire has to be thinner (or it wouldn't fit inside the magnets).

The way I understand it:

The longer/thinner wire of a 55T means it develops less power than a stock 27T, so it revs lower for the same voltage.

Electric motors develop their maximum torque at zero rpm (stalled condition), so torque depends on the current draw of the motor, all other things being equal. A low turn motor draws more current so it must develop more torque.

The actual torque at the wheels depends on the overall gear ratio. If you geared 2 different motors to get the same top speed, the low-turn motor would give you more torque.

A high turn motor is more controllable/driveable than a low turn motor. Although a low turn motor develops more power, revs and torque, it's less responsive at low throttle.

So, it's really a question of choosing the right balance of motor winds and gearing for the type of vehicle, trading ultimate power for driveability in the prevailing conditions.
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Old 06-08-2009, 01:19 PM   #3
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The higher the turns of the motor, the lower the RPM's per volt...
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Old 06-08-2009, 06:56 PM   #4
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The lower the winds, the less cells are required.

A 55t on 2s lipo's will turn the same rpm's as a 85t on 3s lipo's.

but the 85 turn on 3s will have stronger magnetism because of the higher windings.
this results in higher torque ( power).

another thing is your final drive ratio & tire diameter must be considered.

Harry
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Old 06-08-2009, 07:08 PM   #5
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Think of it like diesel motor and gas motor. the diesel makes its power at lower rpm (55+turn) and the gas motor makes power at higher rpm (45- turn). Ya can gear down a low turn motor (they keep wheelspeed and gain low end at the expense of runtime) but the high turn ones don't gear up too well (lose low end to get wheelspeed). IMHO
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Old 06-08-2009, 09:34 PM   #6
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Don't know if it'll help but its good reading The Motor Construction Thread aka What Motor should I Get?
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Old 06-09-2009, 12:26 AM   #7
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More turns means longer strings of thinner wire, which translates into higher resistance. This makes less amperage flow through the motor if there is no load. Thinner wire means smaller gaps between windings, which contributes to making a stronger magnetic field and more torque. Lower turn motors tend to make more torque and spin slower. There quite a few other variables that can come into play and throw that generalization out the window though.

Let's get this clear: Amp draw does not equal torque. Amps times volts equals power, but torque is not a measure of power. Torque is a measure of a force's tendancy to cause rotation about an axis, so it's only a part of the equation to make power. It takes a lot of power to spin a motor fast, but that doesn't mean it's making any torque. Theoretically speaking, a low turn motor will make more torque because it's drawing more amperage, but in reality most low turn motors (I'm thinking of mod motors here, like 17t) will self distruct or ruin your ESC or battery because it's drawing so much current. You also have to consider other factors in the equation too, mod motors use much lighter armatures than lathe motors because they have to spin so fast, but less iron on the arm makes a weaker magnetic field and less torque.

In practice I've had the best luck with 35-45t motors. I've tried higher turn motors and they simply didn't spin fast enough to be usable. You do need some speed from time to time. That said, you won't notice much difference in torque between a 35t and a 55t, but you'll notice a big difference between a 27t stock motor and a 35t lathe motor.

As for handwound motors, they have a tighter wind around the armature, which makes for a stronger magnetic field. Handwound motors generally also have stronger magnets in the can, stronger brush springs and better brushes which all contribute to making a stronger motor. There's a world of difference between a good handwound and a cheap machine wound.

Last edited by chrisjlittle; 06-09-2009 at 12:37 AM.
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Old 07-20-2009, 10:05 PM   #8
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Default Dyno Results

Is anybody running these motors on a dyno?

What kind of numbers do you get, RPM at _____ volts; Max RPMs @ Secs; ____ Torque; Max Eff @ RPM's; Max Power @ RPM and Amp Draw.

What are good rpm and torque values for a crawler motor, lets say the popular ones 35, 45, and 55 turns.

Are these cans 2 or 4 magnets?

Any tuners cutting brushes?
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Old 07-20-2009, 10:14 PM   #9
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...............

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohRobHolmes

Motor speeds (taken from random and averaged sample @ zero timing & 3100rpm):
10t = 6526 rpm/volt
15t = 4317 rpm/volt
17t = 3753 rpm/volt
20t = 3216 rpm/volt
21t = 3082 rpm/volt
23t = 2790 rpm/volt
25t = 2588 rpm/volt
35t = 1565 rpm/volt
45t = 1210 rpm/volt
55t = 987 rpm/volt
65t = 837 rpm/volt
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Old 07-21-2009, 12:15 AM   #10
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Okay - And ?

I missed JRH's quote in my searching... would you kindly provide the link to the entire thread.

Is brushless terminology (specs) being used now when referring to a brushed motor? Or just using 1 volt instead of the "old" 5 or 7.2 volt standard?
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