torque twist
 

just installed tcs edge chassis and medium internal springs, but now have horrible torque twist. Any suggestions?

i wanna get but i run a 7 cell bat. with a hump will it fit

Which side of the axle twists? Usually on droop you get TT on the front left and some in the rear right. A nice solution is to cut some 4 link plates for both the front and the rear. There are many templates around here. You can also use a thicker oil on left front shock.

Increase the preload on the left rear spring.

if you use axial axels you can buy AX30401 so that the front tires spins a bit faster than the rear, so that the tt is readuced!
ill also do that an my coming swx built!

greetz

4 link the rear

i had 4 link in the rear and it was worse than the 3 link. Maybe needs more tweeking

:mrgreen::mrgreen:just take the shocks off and oil them and sit there and work them they will get worked in mine did!:-P

Renzo, TT is as the name suggests a product of torque. There are many diffrent stratagies as to how best to minimize it. (please understand that the only two ways to eliminate it are A, mount the object that creates torque on the axles i.e. the motors, or B, make the chassis solidly, and unmoveably attatched to the suspension). No matter what you do to a shaft driven vehicle (and yes I am including the Losi Comp Crawler with its worm gears) you are going to have TT. So, how do we minimize it.
Well, first you have to understand, that the less weight is up high, the less TT you are going to have. Weight transfer is what makes the suspension lift, and the chassis twist.
So, first, get all of the weight that you can either as low as possible, or completely off of the chassis of the vehicle. (move it to the axles, or the upper links themselves)
Then you need to counter act the force of the lift with weight in the appropriate way. So, you need to add weight to your front wheels (this is a two fold improvement, tho it takes more time to explain)
Finally, you need to use the suspension to your advantage. If your chassis has several diffrent mounting points for the upper links, then you need to use a set of mounting holes that is higher (by at least one step) then the fronts, this creates anti-squat. Then you need to let the shocks do thier part. If you are running a full droop setup, then try a heavier weight oil, if you are running a sprung suspension, then you need to add some pre-load to the left rear (or driverside rear).

Now, you said that a 4 link make the problem worse. The most likely reason for this is poor setup. I know it sounds kind of hard to eff up a 4 link setup, but bear with me here. Ideally what you want with a 4 link is perfect upper and lower triangulation. So, if your upper links in your 4 link setup were running more or less straight, then thats your problem right there. They need to be running at an angle in towards the center of the diff, but not attatched to the same point. Generally, anywhere between 1/2 and 1/4 inch seperation will do the trick nicely.

If you would like some more in depth info as to the hows and whys of all of this, just shoot me a PM.


Hope this helped

Darryl