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Old 08-27-2009, 03:28 PM   #1
Quarry Creeper
 
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Default Water (not for drinking)

So i had a few question about running in water.

Firstly, electronics. Most of it is simple, and I know how to do it. I've got my reciever and servo's waterproofed. How about the ESC? I know with high power applications, you can't just balloon them, becasue you need airflwo to keep em cool. However, with crawling, it shuld be fine to ballon them ratehr than using more permanent techniques, since it is low current, right? I am using the tekin FXR.

THe only other thing I am worried about, is the tires/foams. I know traditional foams like you get with most tires disintergrate with moisture, and its all bad. I jsut bought a used crawler with memory foam in it (don't know exactly what it is, but he said its memory foam). He also said the rims are drilled to let air in/out, but the tires are not, so you can go in shallow water with no worries whatsoever. Is it ok to get these a littel deeper, such thtat water can get in?

OHERWISE, I can get anotehr set of rims/wheels just for water/mud running. There is a creek near my hosue that seems like it could be pretty fun. In summer, its only about 6" deep at the deepest, adn as shallow as .5" or 1" in other areas. There are some rocks and obstacles of all sorts in there (even some tadpoles :P), but none are too big. What would be some good 2.2 tires/wheels for this terrain?

Also, waht size hex does the ax10 use (I'm still waiting for it to arrive next thursday, but I'm gonna place an order for all the extra stuff I need, so I can hit the rocks/creek the day I get it.

I AM REALLY LOOKING FORWARD TO IT!!!

Thanks for all you help. Lots of forums brush away us noobs :P
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Old 08-27-2009, 03:44 PM   #2
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12mm hex if im not mistaking and water funks up memory foams so no water
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Old 08-27-2009, 03:48 PM   #3
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well you'll want to plug up the holes in the wheels with sillicone or something like that, for the esc look in the sticky called "waterproofing electronics", tires every other person will have a diffrent opinnions but the tried and true asmeany will say is the masher 2000 m3 compound, and they use a 12mm hex
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Old 08-27-2009, 05:42 PM   #4
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Thanks, I read that thread about waterproofing electronics, but it still does not mention cooling. There will be no air over the esc, is that OK?

And I'll look at the mashers. Are they premounted on rims? That would be uber kudos.
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Old 08-27-2009, 10:19 PM   #5
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If it were me, and I was trying to kep my ESC cool, and also make it waterproof, I would use some good silicon to seal up the wire inlets/outles, all the case seals, around any and all gaps or cracks. I would also seal around the heatsink. And then you should be good to go. Silicone is going to do better than anything to seal it up, but it can be messy if you dont know what your doing.

Before I sealed up the esc, I would crack it open and lightly spray it with WD-40. If any water does get inside, the WD will protect your electronics from it, as well as any corrosion that may occur.

As for the wheels and tires. I would get another set, and use this to lower the pressure in them.

A little pricey, but it is a full kit, and they wont let water in
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Old 08-27-2009, 10:44 PM   #6
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...A bit prciey for my first set, lol. Do you own them? Are they worth $100? Can you use other 2.2 tires iwth it, or only those specific tires? It would be mnore worth it if I could slap any tires on it. Also, I know how to do a full legit waterproofing with the esc, my question is: do you need to? Is the amp draw high enough in this application that it needs cooling?

ALSO, are those wheels metal, or plastic? I'd assume rthe reusabliuilyt isn't all that great is its plastic.

Last edited by Spiftacu1ar; 08-27-2009 at 10:56 PM.
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:22 PM   #7
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FOund the g-air system for $88, which is only $8 more than gettign mashers and proline beadlocks. ANybody have experience with te g-air system who could tell me they are good / better than getting normal tires?
I don't trust soundcolor cuz he is "AN IDIOT AND SHOULD BE DRUG OUT IN THE STREET AND SHOT"
Lol, jk, but srsly, who's used them?
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:27 PM   #8
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Amp draw is going to be the same. It just doesnt seem the same because you spend alot less time at full throttle top speed. However something to remember is that it takes far much power to get a car moving than to keep it moving.
I would figure out a way to keep it as cool as possible.

As for the G-made system. It is pricey yes, but really if you think about it this way its not bad. A new full set of alum beadlocks is gonna cost you between 60 to 100 or more. Then you have to add tires to that price.

I did a little looking around to see if other tires would work and though I havent seen any other tires on a set of their beadlocks yet, I did manage to find a pic of their wheels, and I see no reason why any other 2.2 tire wouldn't work

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Old 08-27-2009, 11:33 PM   #9
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Cool, do they work though, lol? Like as in, they don't leak, and the tread that comes iwth them is decent? Can't find any reviews. I'm this close to buying them :P.
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:47 PM   #10
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I wouldnt spray WD40 or anything else in a ESC.. get some dielectric grease and put in there if you want to keep water out.. balloons work fine. and every single time I see someone try and silicone a ESC up they end buying a new one..

I would also do allot more reading around the forum the amp draw is lower in crawling applications. even at full throttle.

I have had Gmade wheels in the past there OK at best never really held beads great.. the air thing I dont know seems like a novelty thing.. I never really cared much about the foams in a truck I drove threw water they do kinda dissolve but it takes quite a while..
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:57 PM   #11
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About the esc, I don't plan on doing a legit sealing with silicone and what not. It voids an chance of customer support, AND there is a lot to go wrong. I know that amp draw is lower, sicne they are high turn motors. I didn't know if it was ok to restrict air though. You last post answers my questions though, cuz you said you ballon it, and it works fine.

NEXT. Tires, you reccomend I shouldn't get the g-airs, should I jsut get the mashers and some proline beadlocks, and let the foams disintegrate? I jsut don't want to screw my "good" rims with the memory foam.
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Old 08-28-2009, 12:03 AM   #12
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Ok, whats with the proline split six 2.2 beadlocs, which look like htey are different sizes on each side?
SHuld I just stick with axial stuff?
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Old 08-28-2009, 12:27 AM   #13
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i would say just get some mud/water tires and beadlocks and silicone the beads and slap the beadlock rings on. that way the bead shouldnt leak at all.
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Old 08-28-2009, 12:33 AM   #14
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Default g mades

have a set of the g mades. they didn't hold the bead very well so i had a slow leak in the tires. g made recommended checking air pressure before EVERY run. tires are very similar to mashers tread wise, but very stiff.
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Old 08-28-2009, 12:38 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiftacu1ar View Post
Ok, whats with the proline split six 2.2 beadlocs, which look like htey are different sizes on each side?
SHuld I just stick with axial stuff?
those are made for the team associated sc10. don't want those. need a rim that is 2.2" on both sides find someone who has upgraded their beadlocks and get their old stockers for cheap.
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Old 08-28-2009, 01:26 AM   #16
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I have no issue with leaks in axial plastic beadlocks. To get the benefits of a aired up tyre just stuff the thing in a freezer for a hour with one bead lock ring open then close it up and let it come to room temp. It'll self inflate. I do this with some HotBodies Rovers. They work good on the stuff I was crawling in Auburn. (bedrock) Helped keep the ass end from sliding out and added height. As for water slogging tyre tread, I dunno I just run whats used elsewhere. I get wet I get wet.
If you want to seal the existing tryes and the vent hole is in the rim a gob of shoegoe should do it or some epoxy like JB weld. I use the latter to seal nylon wheels. As for inflation or a airtight seal avoid "goatheads"


Bane of anything rubber and inflated.

As for the ESC temps are not much of a issue like older hdw. Id just mount the esc as high as possible. I would probably worry more about the RX than the ESC.
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Old 08-28-2009, 01:52 AM   #17
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Also make sure you plug up these holes, they are open right into the axle. I use nylon screws. Just make sure to use something short so it doesn't hit the shaft inside.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:45 AM   #18
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What's a lil rust in the axle gonna do, huh bub? Lol, I jk. Thanks for that bit of advice. I will be sure to seal the axle.

Here is the conclusion I'm seeing right now:
Buy some new tires and axial beadlocks.
Only one suggestion, by one person on the type of tire: masher 2000, so I guess that's what I'm getting :P. (Object soon, tower order being placed in an hour or so.

AND I'LL AVOID THE SCAPEGOATS LIKE THE PLAGUE... or was it the goat heads?
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:47 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redking View Post
those are made for the team associated sc10. don't want those. need a rim that is 2.2" on both sides find someone who has upgraded their beadlocks and get their old stockers for cheap.
Aren't all beadlocks the same?
(I see some enraged crawlers comin now, but it's ok, It'll take them an hour to reach me at that rate)
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Old 08-28-2009, 10:46 AM   #20
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Did soem more serachign on the tires forum. Supposedly the Rover is really good on wet surfaces (yay), and is really tall and cool looking. I will be getting the proline eight shooter in black.

Will these beadlocks create a seal?
Also, SHould I get blue or white compund? one is soft, one is a little harder. I was thinking about getting hte harder blue compund so it lasts longer.
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