how much wheel weights in my wheels???
 

posting for a buddy of mine and we would like to know how much weight to put in is ax10 rtc wheels front and rear thanks a lot in advance

up to you really. depends on driving style and preference. i run 5.25 each front and 4.25 each rear. works very well for me. "thumbsup"

In my experience I have found that putting weight in the back of the truck will severely limit your trucks climbing ability and sometimes even make certain climbs impossible. I would run a maximum of 6 ounces of weights in my front wheels if any, I like my rig to be as light as possible to help specifically with climbs but it depends on where you are crawling and driving style.

But if he is not running in an area with steep climbs then I would say go ahead! But as said before its up to him and what he's planning on driving over!:mrgreen:

I would not put no weight in the rear but I have to complete wraps in the front and it works great "thumbsup"

two wraps in front (about 8 ounces) and one in back (about 3 1/2 ounces) was a good start for me. any more in the front and the hex will blow out pretty quick.

I am confused... I think you may have worded your post wrong, or its just me reading it wrong, which has happened before!:mrgreen:

It's about the part about stripping the hex. I don't see how adding more weight will result in stripping your hex it just doesn't make sense to me. Could you please clarify?

the more the wheels way the more force it puts on the hex area in the wheel. plastic wheels can only take the amount i listed for so long, any more and "click click click" and only one front turns.

I put 7.5 in front and 3.0 in the rear on mine.

I know a lot of people say you don't need it in the rear but I have everything up front, battery, speed control, servo. The only thing to the rear is my receiver and that may move when I finish more changes. I didn't want it to flop over on down hills.

Mine crawls great and I don't have a dig yet and I am starting to get good at following moa's.

Its a lot about learning to drive and control the throttle, it's not all "pin it and win it" in crawling.

I am still confused because adding weight won't increase the stress on the hex. I don't see that happening unless you get your wheel stuck in a nook and try to muscle out of it, or something like that. Adding more weight won't make the wheel harder to turn thats between the friction of your tires and the rock.

Adding more weight makes work harder all around; this includes harder work for the motor, of course, which puts more stress on the hexes, among other things. Something has to give and if the hex is the weakest link...

It has to do with inertia and mass. Think of it this way, if you stick a pencil in an apple and then spin the pencil between your fingers, you will likely start the apple spinning as well. If you stick the pencil in a pumpkin, and try the same thing, the pencil would either break, or spin inside the hole, while the pumpkin remained stationary. This assumes you are twisting the pencil at the same rpm for both apple and pumpkin. Because the pumpkin weighs more it takes more energy to move it and increases the risk of breaking something.

okay thats what I thought you were saying, but that is all dependent on the friction between your tires not weight. The motor has such a huge mechanical advantage (because of the lower gear ratio) that adding more weight would hardly make a change at all unless like you said you stuck a whole pumpkin on there.:mrgreen:

I think if you were going from forward to reverse and back quickly it would have more of an effect with a large amount of weight....something you probably shouldn't do anyway lol

If you add 12-18 oz. of lead to the front wheels (as most of us do) believe me, it makes a big difference in how easy it is to break stuff. You're right that friction is a factor though, you're gonna break stuff when you're bound up in the rocks and hit the gas (which ALL of us do regularly:mrgreen::twisted:)

that said, the extra weight in the front is worth it, just don't go overboard with it, just add enough to get a nice forward weight bias."thumbsup"

Here is why I still don't think that adding more weight will put stress on the hex.

The extra weight is resting on the wheels, which are resting on the ground, not the hex.

The truck is resting on the hex, which is resting on the wheels. So if you add more weight to the wheels the weight won't affect the hex at all cause the weight isn't resting on it, its resting on the ground. The truck is what is resting on the hex.

I can see your train of thought but you are not considering Rotational Force (Think Newton's Laws of Motion "An object at rest wants to stay at rest") or F=ma.

Another analogy similar to the pumpkin and pencil would be a hex driver and a hex screw. (Hex driver is the Axle in this case and wheel is the hex screw.) So you stick the hex driver into the screw head and turn (representitive of stepping on the gas). If the screw is well lubed or not tight the screw just turns (a light wheel).

Now consider what happens if the screw is either frozen, rusted, or loctight'd (Similar to adding weight to the wheel). You have to apply more torque to try to get the screw to move. If you are using a cheap hex driver (like the plastic hex's on the stock axles), chances are that you will round off the hex key. If you are using a good hex driver (like the axial metal hex's) you will either:

A) Break the screw free (same as getting the wheel to turn)

B) Round off the screw head (same as rounding off the sockets inside the wheel, and not very likely)

C) Brake the shaft or handle of the driver (same as breaking a T-bone or stripping a gear in the diff)

So, if you add more weight to the wheels you are more likely to break things in the drive train.

http://www.sciencescope.co.uk/force_...celeration.htm

even if you hold your truck in the air when you punch the throttle the more weight in the wheels the harder it is to turn em, same when the drag brake kicks in the heavier they are the harder they are to stop. as others have said it not just the hex area in the wheel that see's the stress. the gears, driveshafts, tranny outputs, you'll notice parts break in the front more than the rear. that has a lot to do with the extra weight in the front wheels, look at stock wheels that have had weight in em for a while. the rears will look new in the hex area and the fronts will be starting to round a little.

I am runing 10oz in each front and 2oz in rear and it has made a huge differance in my performance. Im with everyone else alot depends on the terrain you are on and your driving style.........

okay, I agree with you on that one, but adding 10 oz to the wheel won't increase the stress on the hex to the level that you guys are talking about, not even close! Unless you are switching back and forth between forward throttle and reverse like said previously, but even that is not that hard on it. I think you guys think Inertia is more powerful than it actually is.

Naw man... we just think the Axial plastic hexes are not intended for a lot of weight so are more likely to round off the heavier the wheel gets. And like BigB said consider when "you're bound up in the rocks and hit the gas". Either way, give it a swing and whats the worst that could happen, having to replace parts... ah well! :)