RCCrawler Forums

gary · 10-08-2009, 11:58 AM

I want to build a axial comp crawler. My question is should I purchase a axial kit then mod it, or should I purchase the axles and the frame and add the aftermarket part's as I build? What type of transmission, links, shafts, knuckles etc do you recommend. Also, what else will I nee to make this a comp crawler and where do guys get their aftermarket parts from?

Thanks,
-Gary

dirttrackdemon93 · 10-08-2009, 12:05 PM

Anymore I like to buy the axles and trans and build from there. All I do is read read read on the forums here to get info. If your gonna build a AXial based rig the skys the limit when it comes to aftermarket support. My suggestion is to spend an evening on here just reading posts etc, and make sure you have a pen ready and make a shopping list while your reading of what youd like to buy etc. Most everyone on here is pretty straight forward and will tell you ALOT!!!!

mxracer33x · 10-08-2009, 12:09 PM

It all depends on what parts you have currently and what you want to spend ideally.

Make a list of what you have in hand and what you want to spend up front and you can get a real good idea of where your at.

gary · 10-08-2009, 01:12 PM

Thanks. For a comp rig will the stock axles and tranny from axial work? I don't see any sense in buying these and then have to buy additional upgrades. Or then again, maybe this is how its done. I don't know. Where is a good place to buy the axles and tranny. I see lot's of different venders however, I have never dealt with any of them. I have nothing as of yet, I am starting from scratch. I thought about purchassing a used rig but being new I really don't know what really to look for. I have talked to a user/member and he has given me very good advice and information. I don't like to pm all the time but when reading things questions seem to come up regarding this and that or what if. You guys know, you were new at one time. I will take your advice a continue reading and gaining knowledge. Looking forward to your feedback as I go.
Thanks,
-Gary

CHRIZAD · 10-08-2009, 01:35 PM

My advise too gary is if you really have decided to go axial, get the locked axles first. Thats the safest part that you can start on...After, try to decide which chassis do you want to go, theres a lot of good chassis here and there but be careful which one to choose since a lot of them needs a lot of thinking of how to fit the dig, tranny, links, etc. Your best bet is make a research here like a build thread on a chassis that you like and get the information that they use on it like the length of links, mounts,digs, etc.. The axial tranny is good to start too.. since youll be using parts of it if you go dig..

P.S. use the search button and search for ax10 chassis

Hope this helps.. and let us know if you need more advise

gary · 10-08-2009, 01:48 PM

I have decided to go with this chassis.
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/ON-SALE-1...s-p-16621.html

Looking at their web page suggests they are a good resource to buy from. I e-mailed them and about ten minutes later I received a response. I don't know how difficult setting up this rig will be, but I am looking forward to get started. For the shock set up I like the idea of installing the springs inside the shock housing. I just need to read additional information. Kinda overwhelming. Let me know what you think about the above chassis.
-Gary

poorboyrc77 · 10-08-2009, 01:50 PM

I don't know how much you are planning on spending but if your building a REAL comp ax10 you're going to have upwards of $600 in it when you get done. My suggestion is find a used comp rig built close to what you want & buy it. You will save money. You should be able to find a decent one for around $450.

poorboyrc77 · 10-08-2009, 01:54 PM

If you like The Crawler store go to the home page. Austin Dunn uses this chassis for his Ax10. He's been the National champ more than once. It's the GC2.http://www.tcscrawlers.com/Gatekeepe...s-p-16897.html

CHAD DAD · 10-08-2009, 02:00 PM

There is nothing wrong with the stock axels or trans but there are many upgrades you can get for the stock stuff compared to the aftermarket world. Me being a shaft guy and about a couple of months ago went to berg I can tell you that. there are many combos that you can go with I still have my shaft car. the combo I ran that worked really well and held together for me was the chassis is a swx bender chassis with 4" losi shocks with white springs 7955tg servo with a bec inline and Volts set at 7volts DNA dig with a 645 servo on the dig Banzi 45t motor A mamba max esc very smooth and no problems but less drag brake then the tekin MIP driveshafts they will not brake integy wheels with 2 wraps of weight in the front and nothing in back . Also ran 3cell to turn the hot body rovers Blue compound and I also ran a over driven gear in the front axel it really helped crawl more vert stuff I run the stock Dog bones in the front I had a set of MIP cvds in it but broke them and went back to stock and did not have any problems with them. this seemed to be a good setup for me ...

poorboyrc77 · 10-08-2009, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHAD DAD

There is nothing wrong with the stock axels or trans but there are many upgrades you can get for the stock stuff compared to the aftermarket world. Me being a shaft guy and about a couple of months ago went to berg I can tell you that. there are many combos that you can go with I still have my shaft car. the combo I ran that worked really well and held together for me was the chassis is a swx bender chassis with 4" losi shocks with white springs 7955tg servo with a bec inline and Volts set at 7volts DNA dig with a 645 servo on the dig Banzi 45t motor A mamba max esc very smooth and no problems but less drag brake then the tekin MIP driveshafts they will not brake integy wheels with 2 wraps of weight in the front and nothing in back . Also ran 3cell to turn the hot body rovers Blue compound and I also ran a over driven gear in the front axel it really helped crawl more vert stuff I run the stock Dog bones in the front I had a set of MIP cvds in it but broke them and went back to stock and did not have any problems with them. this seemed to be a good setup for me ...

Great combo......Now tell him how much it cost to get it that way.

CHAD DAD · 10-08-2009, 02:15 PM

Well.... lets just say It only takes a couple more bucks to go first class

But you can go into the for sale section and find alot of this stuff for a decent price plus I have been kickin around the idea of getting rid of this one.

CHAD DAD · 10-08-2009, 02:29 PM

Gary, Buy a green star from Rcc it will open up more of the forum (the classifieds) and see alot more stuff.

oSPANNERo · 10-08-2009, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by poorboyrc77

I don't know how much you are planning on spending but if your building a REAL comp ax10 you're going to have upwards of $600 in it when you get done. My suggestion is find a used comp rig built close to what you want & buy it. You will save money. You should be able to find a decent one for around $450.

I agree with PoorBoy! If you get an ARTR or RTR you are going to end up re-buying a TON of parts. At this point I bought a ARTR with electronics and now have replaced almost enough parts to rebuild the ARTR as a whole seperate truck.

I would say buy a star (if you don't already have one) and take a look in the for sale section! There are tons of GREAT rigs for sale that will cost you less than putting it all together yourself!

gary · 10-08-2009, 03:28 PM

WOW! Thanks for the responses. I figured as much that I would be investing some money. I want quality and performance and not the plastic components. The learning curve is pretty good for someone that is new. I do have another question though. I can see the classifieds, is their more than what I have access to? By buying a star what exactly will open in the classifieds? I must admit that I have seen some extremely nice rigs here. But what distinguishes a comp rig from the rest? I know I ramble on sometimes however, I'll keep reading on. Oh yea, I enjoy reading tech and tool and procedures forums as well.
-Gary

CHAD DAD · 10-08-2009, 03:39 PM

your classifieds is open because you have over 30 replys But you buy a star to help keep rcc open and running go and read the subscription part of the forum to find out what else Ya get. you can Pm me if you have any questions

2500hdon37s · 10-08-2009, 04:08 PM

i wouldnt go with the edge tuber chassis if you are making a comp rig, i have an edge and its great but i hate having to run a droop suspension set up,id go with a chassis that you can run sprung on and put a bdy on to keep weight down

poorboyrc77 · 10-08-2009, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gary

WOW! Thanks for the responses. I figured as much that I would be investing some money. I want quality and performance and not the plastic components. The learning curve is pretty good for someone that is new. I do have another question though. I can see the classifieds, is their more than what I have access to? By buying a star what exactly will open in the classifieds? I must admit that I have seen some extremely nice rigs here. But what distinguishes a comp rig from the rest? I know I ramble on sometimes however, I'll keep reading on. Oh yea, I enjoy reading tech and tool and procedures forums as well.
-Gary

Comp rigs usually don't have alot of extra bling thats not needed. Only put what is needed & put weight where it counts. Most good comp rigs have a motor lower than a 55 turn , 35 & 45 work very good with a 3 or possibly 4 cell lipo & a low center of gravity. You need enough speed & torque to get over obstacles incase there is no traction. In a REAL comp rig a good dependable dig is a necessity. Spend the money on it , Don't skimp. Put aluminum parts on only to add weight or replace weak parts on your rig. I want tell you specific namebrands to buy only because what works for me & my budget may not work for you. This is just the general need to know with most crawlers.Anyone that has been crawling for a while has wasted money buying parts only to find something better the next week. Unless you've built a few & know exactly what parts you want you will spend money in vain only to find a better replacement part later. Just look at the previous post.

gary · 10-08-2009, 04:45 PM

This is exactly what I am trying to avoid, investing in something that I will have to change out in order to achieve my goal. I have been reading some on the droop setups and i don't know how difficult it would be to set up. With the responses I have received, it gives me some perimeters to start. I am the type that likes to know how things work and enjoy building things and modding. Please chime in here and list some of the vendors that have been utilized. I really don't know where to turn in that respect.
-Gary

AlmstEvil665 · 10-08-2009, 05:07 PM

If you wantg a good proven and cheap comp chassis go with the Axial Bender Customs SWX. TCS has it for about the best price right now. You will need a lot of parts to start from scratch. Make sure you get the chassis that comes with links. When building from scratch your money will be tied up in a lot of small parts. Link ends drive shafts screws nuts body clips. There is a lot of stuff you will need to purchase that might get overlooked. My sugestion would be to buy the Axial kit. Build the truck from the ground up with the stock chassis. Run it stock for a week or two. Buy an SWX and swap it over. Limit your stock shocks with fuel tubing inside and run white or red springs. You can get the kit for around $200 or less. It has all metal ball ends and a lot of upgrades. Then buy the SWX chassis for about $70. Get a good servo anywhere between $35 to $120. I suggest a high end servo though. Get tires Rovers for sure use the stock foams you can get them for around $25. So right now you would have about $300 in a good comp chassis with good tires minus a servo and radio. Add in your servo- I run a Hitec 7955 and I highly recomend getting a good one from the start and you can pick that up for $100. So now you got $400 in a truck thats gonna stomp some butt if its set up right minus the radio. The reason I suggest getting a kit and running it stock is so you have some respect for how much better it will be with the new chassis. Also it will have all the parts in it you need like the screws and ends and what not that will nickle and dime you to death. Plus you can use the directions and build the thing in stock form so you know how it all works. Starting with a kit is just a good idea IMHO so you have everything to get started. After you start upgrading then you can learn more and more and then build a truck from scratch. I at first wished I wiould have just built from scratch but now I think it was a good idea. I would still be running a stock chassis if it wasn't so tall. I was doin really well in our comps with the stock chassis.

If you buy axles and a trans seperate you'll have $150 in it minus servo mounts and what not as well as steering linkages among some other stuff. So why not spend $50 extra to make sure you have everything your going to need to build the truck. Trust me buy the kit. You will need to buy link ends and set screws and driveshafts and all kinds of other odds and ends. Thats what I would do if I were you. If you have any questions at all feel free to PM me I will be willing to help you out.

poorboyrc77 · 10-08-2009, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlmstEvil665

If you wantg a good proven and cheap comp chassis go with the Axial Bender Customs SWX. TCS has it for about the best price right now. You will need a lot of parts to start from scratch. Make sure you get the chassis that comes with links. When building from scratch your money will be tied up in a lot of small parts. Link ends drive shafts screws nuts body clips. There is a lot of stuff you will need to purchase that might get overlooked. My sugestion would be to buy the Axial kit. Build the truck from the ground up with the stock chassis. Run it stock for a week or two. Buy an SWX and swap it over. Limit your stock shocks with fuel tubing inside and run white or red springs. You can get the kit for around $200 or less. It has all metal ball ends and a lot of upgrades. Then buy the SWX chassis for about $70. Get a good servo anywhere between $35 to $120. I suggest a high end servo though. Get tires Rovers for sure use the stock foams you can get them for around $25. So right now you would have about $300 in a good comp chassis with good tires minus a servo and radio. Add in your servo- I run a Hitec 7955 and I highly recomend getting a good one from the start and you can pick that up for $100. So now you got $400 in a truck thats gonna stomp some butt if its set up right minus the radio. The reason I suggest getting a kit and running it stock is so you have some respect for how much better it will be with the new chassis. Also it will have all the parts in it you need like the screws and ends and what not that will nickle and dime you to death. Plus you can use the directions and build the thing in stock form so you know how it all works. Starting with a kit is just a good idea IMHO so you have everything to get started. After you start upgrading then you can learn more and more and then build a truck from scratch. I at first wished I wiould have just built from scratch but now I think it was a good idea. I would still be running a stock chassis if it wasn't so tall. I was doin really well in our comps with the stock chassis.

If you buy axles and a trans seperate you'll have $150 in it minus servo mounts and what not as well as steering linkages among some other stuff. So why not spend $50 extra to make sure you have everything your going to need to build the truck. Trust me buy the kit. You will need to buy link ends and set screws and driveshafts and all kinds of other odds and ends. Thats what I would do if I were you. If you have any questions at all feel free to PM me I will be willing to help you out.

Thats $400 , no ESC ,no motor , no DIG, dig servo,no battery or charger & no radio.

10-08-2009, 11:58 AM	#1
gary Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: coshocton Posts: 177	Axial Question I want to build a axial comp crawler. My question is should I purchase a axial kit then mod it, or should I purchase the axles and the frame and add the aftermarket part's as I build? What type of transmission, links, shafts, knuckles etc do you recommend. Also, what else will I nee to make this a comp crawler and where do guys get their aftermarket parts from? Thanks, -Gary

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

10-08-2009, 12:05 PM	#2
dirttrackdemon93 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Casper Posts: 400	Anymore I like to buy the axles and trans and build from there. All I do is read read read on the forums here to get info. If your gonna build a AXial based rig the skys the limit when it comes to aftermarket support. My suggestion is to spend an evening on here just reading posts etc, and make sure you have a pen ready and make a shopping list while your reading of what youd like to buy etc. Most everyone on here is pretty straight forward and will tell you ALOT!!!!

10-08-2009, 12:09 PM	#3
mxracer33x Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Chico Posts: 281	It all depends on what parts you have currently and what you want to spend ideally. Make a list of what you have in hand and what you want to spend up front and you can get a real good idea of where your at.

10-08-2009, 01:12 PM	#4
gary Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: coshocton Posts: 177	Thanks. For a comp rig will the stock axles and tranny from axial work? I don't see any sense in buying these and then have to buy additional upgrades. Or then again, maybe this is how its done. I don't know. Where is a good place to buy the axles and tranny. I see lot's of different venders however, I have never dealt with any of them. I have nothing as of yet, I am starting from scratch. I thought about purchassing a used rig but being new I really don't know what really to look for. I have talked to a user/member and he has given me very good advice and information. I don't like to pm all the time but when reading things questions seem to come up regarding this and that or what if. You guys know, you were new at one time. I will take your advice a continue reading and gaining knowledge. Looking forward to your feedback as I go. Thanks, -Gary

10-08-2009, 01:35 PM	#5
CHRIZAD Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Texas border crawlin from cops Posts: 347	My advise too gary is if you really have decided to go axial, get the locked axles first. Thats the safest part that you can start on...After, try to decide which chassis do you want to go, theres a lot of good chassis here and there but be careful which one to choose since a lot of them needs a lot of thinking of how to fit the dig, tranny, links, etc. Your best bet is make a research here like a build thread on a chassis that you like and get the information that they use on it like the length of links, mounts,digs, etc.. The axial tranny is good to start too.. since youll be using parts of it if you go dig.. P.S. use the search button and search for ax10 chassis Hope this helps.. and let us know if you need more advise

10-08-2009, 01:48 PM	#6
gary Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: coshocton Posts: 177	I have decided to go with this chassis. http://www.tcscrawlers.com/ON-SALE-1...s-p-16621.html Looking at their web page suggests they are a good resource to buy from. I e-mailed them and about ten minutes later I received a response. I don't know how difficult setting up this rig will be, but I am looking forward to get started. For the shock set up I like the idea of installing the springs inside the shock housing. I just need to read additional information. Kinda overwhelming. Let me know what you think about the above chassis. -Gary

10-08-2009, 01:50 PM	#7
poorboyrc77 Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: talladega AL. Posts: 787	I don't know how much you are planning on spending but if your building a REAL comp ax10 you're going to have upwards of $600 in it when you get done. My suggestion is find a used comp rig built close to what you want & buy it. You will save money. You should be able to find a decent one for around $450.

10-08-2009, 01:54 PM	#8
poorboyrc77 Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: talladega AL. Posts: 787	If you like The Crawler store go to the home page. Austin Dunn uses this chassis for his Ax10. He's been the National champ more than once. It's the GC2.http://www.tcscrawlers.com/Gatekeepe...s-p-16897.html

10-08-2009, 02:00 PM	#9
CHAD DAD Newbie Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: up the hill Posts: 48	There is nothing wrong with the stock axels or trans but there are many upgrades you can get for the stock stuff compared to the aftermarket world. Me being a shaft guy and about a couple of months ago went to berg I can tell you that. there are many combos that you can go with I still have my shaft car. the combo I ran that worked really well and held together for me was the chassis is a swx bender chassis with 4" losi shocks with white springs 7955tg servo with a bec inline and Volts set at 7volts DNA dig with a 645 servo on the dig Banzi 45t motor A mamba max esc very smooth and no problems but less drag brake then the tekin MIP driveshafts they will not brake integy wheels with 2 wraps of weight in the front and nothing in back . Also ran 3cell to turn the hot body rovers Blue compound and I also ran a over driven gear in the front axel it really helped crawl more vert stuff I run the stock Dog bones in the front I had a set of MIP cvds in it but broke them and went back to stock and did not have any problems with them. this seemed to be a good setup for me ...

10-08-2009, 02:15 PM	#11
CHAD DAD Newbie Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: up the hill Posts: 48	Well.... lets just say It only takes a couple more bucks to go first class But you can go into the for sale section and find alot of this stuff for a decent price plus I have been kickin around the idea of getting rid of this one.

10-08-2009, 02:29 PM	#12
CHAD DAD Newbie Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: up the hill Posts: 48	Gary, Buy a green star from Rcc it will open up more of the forum (the classifieds) and see alot more stuff.

Sponsored Links

10-08-2009, 03:28 PM	#14
gary Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: coshocton Posts: 177	WOW! Thanks for the responses. I figured as much that I would be investing some money. I want quality and performance and not the plastic components. The learning curve is pretty good for someone that is new. I do have another question though. I can see the classifieds, is their more than what I have access to? By buying a star what exactly will open in the classifieds? I must admit that I have seen some extremely nice rigs here. But what distinguishes a comp rig from the rest? I know I ramble on sometimes however, I'll keep reading on. Oh yea, I enjoy reading tech and tool and procedures forums as well. -Gary

10-08-2009, 03:39 PM	#15
CHAD DAD Newbie Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: up the hill Posts: 48	your classifieds is open because you have over 30 replys But you buy a star to help keep rcc open and running go and read the subscription part of the forum to find out what else Ya get. you can Pm me if you have any questions

10-08-2009, 04:08 PM	#16
2500hdon37s I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sittin in the sky Posts: 4,630	i wouldnt go with the edge tuber chassis if you are making a comp rig, i have an edge and its great but i hate having to run a droop suspension set up,id go with a chassis that you can run sprung on and put a bdy on to keep weight down

10-08-2009, 04:45 PM	#18
gary Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: coshocton Posts: 177	This is exactly what I am trying to avoid, investing in something that I will have to change out in order to achieve my goal. I have been reading some on the droop setups and i don't know how difficult it would be to set up. With the responses I have received, it gives me some perimeters to start. I am the type that likes to know how things work and enjoy building things and modding. Please chime in here and list some of the vendors that have been utilized. I really don't know where to turn in that respect. -Gary

10-08-2009, 05:07 PM	#19
AlmstEvil665 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Hagerstown Posts: 369	If you wantg a good proven and cheap comp chassis go with the Axial Bender Customs SWX. TCS has it for about the best price right now. You will need a lot of parts to start from scratch. Make sure you get the chassis that comes with links. When building from scratch your money will be tied up in a lot of small parts. Link ends drive shafts screws nuts body clips. There is a lot of stuff you will need to purchase that might get overlooked. My sugestion would be to buy the Axial kit. Build the truck from the ground up with the stock chassis. Run it stock for a week or two. Buy an SWX and swap it over. Limit your stock shocks with fuel tubing inside and run white or red springs. You can get the kit for around $200 or less. It has all metal ball ends and a lot of upgrades. Then buy the SWX chassis for about $70. Get a good servo anywhere between $35 to $120. I suggest a high end servo though. Get tires Rovers for sure use the stock foams you can get them for around $25. So right now you would have about $300 in a good comp chassis with good tires minus a servo and radio. Add in your servo- I run a Hitec 7955 and I highly recomend getting a good one from the start and you can pick that up for $100. So now you got $400 in a truck thats gonna stomp some butt if its set up right minus the radio. The reason I suggest getting a kit and running it stock is so you have some respect for how much better it will be with the new chassis. Also it will have all the parts in it you need like the screws and ends and what not that will nickle and dime you to death. Plus you can use the directions and build the thing in stock form so you know how it all works. Starting with a kit is just a good idea IMHO so you have everything to get started. After you start upgrading then you can learn more and more and then build a truck from scratch. I at first wished I wiould have just built from scratch but now I think it was a good idea. I would still be running a stock chassis if it wasn't so tall. I was doin really well in our comps with the stock chassis. If you buy axles and a trans seperate you'll have $150 in it minus servo mounts and what not as well as steering linkages among some other stuff. So why not spend $50 extra to make sure you have everything your going to need to build the truck. Trust me buy the kit. You will need to buy link ends and set screws and driveshafts and all kinds of other odds and ends. Thats what I would do if I were you. If you have any questions at all feel free to PM me I will be willing to help you out.

RCCrawler Forums

Thread: Axial Question