RCCrawler Forums

JTTG · 10-15-2009, 10:23 AM

I bought a shafty from a friend that I am now selling. I started out knowing absolutely nothing about they were built or even worked. I have learned to do things like change out axles, housings, rebuild shocks, etc. and understand how all the past work, but am now selling that car and need help with a new one.

I'm going MOA with Bully V2 axles and a Beetlejuice chassis. What kind of links should I get and where should I get them?

My parts list so far:

Bully v2 axles
Tekin 45T motors
Tekin FX-R ESC
Punk RC Dig
Hitec Steering servo
CC BEC
Bully steering kit
TGRC aluminum shocks
tires and wheels undecided as of yet

Is there anything else I'm missing? What links/hardware do I need in addition to what's on my list?

53 willys · 10-15-2009, 10:31 AM

I think "downtown" sells a beetlejuice delrin link kit just for the BJ chassis...?

~edit~
here it is..http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=193220

landon4 · 10-15-2009, 10:34 AM

If it were me I would just buy some 5/16 or 3/8 delrin rod, some people prefer 3/8 but I would build my own links using Revo rod ends with long 8/32 set screws thats what I did on my Berg. Plus you can make extras to carry with you in case you break one. I get my rod from McMaster and Carr its like $5 bucks for 5 foot and I have some of the link drill bushings from JeepinDoug they work great then just cut, drill and tap you can also bend it with a little heat. Everything else looks good though we have a member in our club with Bullys and a Beetlejuice chassis and it works very well.

JTTG · 10-15-2009, 10:34 AM

Perfect! thanks...anybody else on the hardware/potential missing pieces?

EDIT: You posted while I was. I don't really have the tools/knowledge to make my own so, the ones posted above seem great.

JeremyH · 10-15-2009, 11:25 AM

I have been running a Beetlejuice Bully for a while now. Here is a link to my build:
Beetlejuice Bully Build

Hopefully that will help you out.

JTTG · 10-15-2009, 12:22 PM

Nice! Thanks a lot.

JTTG · 10-15-2009, 12:27 PM

Actually...where did you get the axle/motor skids? Did you make them or are they retail?

EDIT: NM I just got to that point in the post.

JTTG · 10-15-2009, 02:13 PM

What about rod ends? I used to break them all the time so I want good ones. I heard metal ones don't work so well on the links. What about Revo rod ends?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHGB7&P=ML

JeremyH · 10-15-2009, 02:15 PM

Yep, the Revo rod ends work perfectly! For upper links I used the 112mm Revo pushrods. You wont break revo rod ends!

punkuup5150 · 10-15-2009, 02:16 PM

holy crap someone running bullys who will be local hit me up if you need help jt

JTTG · 10-15-2009, 02:18 PM

hehe will do. I got some help at work, but it's kind of a secret project so...hopefully they're not reading this.

I can whoop them with my shafty, so we'll see how I do with something that can do more.

punkuup5150 · 10-15-2009, 02:23 PM

i would highly recomend the new vanquish slws rims with us running an axial offset we cant run to many lightweight plastic wheels so the slws are great, up front you can run stock axial offset and im actually running a berg offset in the rear to shrink my ass end, this will lighten you up a whole lot, i was running the vanquish dh's all the way around and since goign to the slws ive cut close to 3/4 a pound off an allready heavy truck. but youll love the bullys

just make sure they come with the new upgraded axel tubes and your set

punkuup5150 · 10-15-2009, 02:26 PM

on rod ends i woudl look at getting revo and jato rod ends the revos are shorter and the jatos are longer the nice thing about this is if you mess up making your own links maybe ones just a bit shorter then the other you can shave off some of the jato rod ends your only hard part will be to get a 4mm stud to use i ended up getting some 4 mm screws and cutting the heads off the thread into the links/rod ends very easy

JTTG · 10-15-2009, 07:05 PM

thanks for the wheel info. I was going to order tonight so I'll give them a look first.

JeremyH · 10-15-2009, 07:22 PM

Agreed. You can get away with narrower rear wheels when running the Bully axles.

JTTG · 10-15-2009, 07:45 PM

i'm not sure which wheels you're talking about. Can you link to them on vanquishproducts.com? Thanks! I am almost done ordering.

landon4 · 10-15-2009, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by punkuup5150

on rod ends i woudl look at getting revo and jato rod ends the revos are shorter and the jatos are longer the nice thing about this is if you mess up making your own links maybe ones just a bit shorter then the other you can shave off some of the jato rod ends your only hard part will be to get a 4mm stud to use i ended up getting some 4 mm screws and cutting the heads off the thread into the links/rod ends very easy

You could also use some long 8/32 set screws that is what I use and they work fine, they will probably be easier to find than 4mm set screws.

JTTG · 10-15-2009, 08:08 PM

I see the ones you mean. I think I want the DH's because it's easier to change the weights...plus the hubs for them are required and $15 so they are the same price for 4 as the DH. That doesn't seem right to me.

I just saw that the DH don't come with hex hubs either. Which ones would I need? If I go with the SLW, what wheel width do I want too?

JTTG · 10-16-2009, 10:27 AM

Anyone? I'm going with the vanquish dh pro comp 2.2's but need to know which hex hubs i need for the front and rear... what do 335, 460, and 585 mean? I was hoping to order them right now :-/

krawlfreak · 10-16-2009, 10:32 AM

when i was running the dh"s i used the 460 and 335 in the front depending on terrain and the 335's in the rear.

10-15-2009, 10:23 AM	#1
JTTG Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno Posts: 113	Bully Axles, Beetlejuice Chassis, and links I bought a shafty from a friend that I am now selling. I started out knowing absolutely nothing about they were built or even worked. I have learned to do things like change out axles, housings, rebuild shocks, etc. and understand how all the past work, but am now selling that car and need help with a new one. I'm going MOA with Bully V2 axles and a Beetlejuice chassis. What kind of links should I get and where should I get them? My parts list so far: Bully v2 axles Tekin 45T motors Tekin FX-R ESC Punk RC Dig Hitec Steering servo CC BEC Bully steering kit TGRC aluminum shocks tires and wheels undecided as of yet Is there anything else I'm missing? What links/hardware do I need in addition to what's on my list?

10-15-2009, 08:08 PM	#18
JTTG Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno Posts: 113	I see the ones you mean. I think I want the DH's because it's easier to change the weights...plus the hubs for them are required and $15 so they are the same price for 4 as the DH. That doesn't seem right to me. I just saw that the DH don't come with hex hubs either. Which ones would I need? If I go with the SLW, what wheel width do I want too? Last edited by JTTG; 10-15-2009 at 08:12 PM.

10-15-2009, 10:31 AM	#2
53 willys I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: laying low Posts: 2,508	I think "downtown" sells a beetlejuice delrin link kit just for the BJ chassis...? ~edit~ here it is..http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=193220

10-15-2009, 10:34 AM	#3
landon4 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Splendora Posts: 477	If it were me I would just buy some 5/16 or 3/8 delrin rod, some people prefer 3/8 but I would build my own links using Revo rod ends with long 8/32 set screws thats what I did on my Berg. Plus you can make extras to carry with you in case you break one. I get my rod from McMaster and Carr its like $5 bucks for 5 foot and I have some of the link drill bushings from JeepinDoug they work great then just cut, drill and tap you can also bend it with a little heat. Everything else looks good though we have a member in our club with Bullys and a Beetlejuice chassis and it works very well.

10-15-2009, 11:25 AM	#5
JeremyH I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 16,952	I have been running a Beetlejuice Bully for a while now. Here is a link to my build: Beetlejuice Bully Build Hopefully that will help you out.

10-15-2009, 12:22 PM	#6
JTTG Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno Posts: 113	Nice! Thanks a lot.

10-15-2009, 12:27 PM	#7
JTTG Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno Posts: 113	Actually...where did you get the axle/motor skids? Did you make them or are they retail? EDIT: NM I just got to that point in the post.

10-15-2009, 02:13 PM	#8
JTTG Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno Posts: 113	What about rod ends? I used to break them all the time so I want good ones. I heard metal ones don't work so well on the links. What about Revo rod ends? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHGB7&P=ML

10-15-2009, 02:15 PM	#9
JeremyH I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 16,952	Yep, the Revo rod ends work perfectly! For upper links I used the 112mm Revo pushrods. You wont break revo rod ends!

10-15-2009, 02:16 PM	#10
punkuup5150 Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: lodi Posts: 952	holy crap someone running bullys who will be local hit me up if you need help jt

10-15-2009, 02:18 PM	#11
JTTG Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno Posts: 113	hehe will do. I got some help at work, but it's kind of a secret project so...hopefully they're not reading this. I can whoop them with my shafty, so we'll see how I do with something that can do more.

10-15-2009, 02:23 PM	#12
punkuup5150 Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: lodi Posts: 952	i would highly recomend the new vanquish slws rims with us running an axial offset we cant run to many lightweight plastic wheels so the slws are great, up front you can run stock axial offset and im actually running a berg offset in the rear to shrink my ass end, this will lighten you up a whole lot, i was running the vanquish dh's all the way around and since goign to the slws ive cut close to 3/4 a pound off an allready heavy truck. but youll love the bullys just make sure they come with the new upgraded axel tubes and your set

Sponsored Links

10-15-2009, 02:26 PM	#13
punkuup5150 Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: lodi Posts: 952	on rod ends i woudl look at getting revo and jato rod ends the revos are shorter and the jatos are longer the nice thing about this is if you mess up making your own links maybe ones just a bit shorter then the other you can shave off some of the jato rod ends your only hard part will be to get a 4mm stud to use i ended up getting some 4 mm screws and cutting the heads off the thread into the links/rod ends very easy

10-15-2009, 07:05 PM	#14
JTTG Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno Posts: 113	thanks for the wheel info. I was going to order tonight so I'll give them a look first.

10-15-2009, 07:22 PM	#15
JeremyH I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 16,952	Agreed. You can get away with narrower rear wheels when running the Bully axles.

10-15-2009, 07:45 PM	#16
JTTG Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno Posts: 113	i'm not sure which wheels you're talking about. Can you link to them on vanquishproducts.com? Thanks! I am almost done ordering.

10-16-2009, 10:27 AM	#19
JTTG Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno Posts: 113	Anyone? I'm going with the vanquish dh pro comp 2.2's but need to know which hex hubs i need for the front and rear... what do 335, 460, and 585 mean? I was hoping to order them right now :-/

10-16-2009, 10:32 AM	#20
krawlfreak I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Having fun again... Posts: 2,641	when i was running the dh"s i used the 460 and 335 in the front depending on terrain and the 335's in the rear.

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Thread: Bully Axles, Beetlejuice Chassis, and links