can i run this in 2.2 comp?
 

this is my axial everything is stock except for the knuckles, tie rod (made myself) and the chassis (thrown together 1/4 in. brake line)
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1259022111
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1259022138
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1259022168
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1259022191
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1259022213
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1259022233




so please get back to me i havent competed before and i would like to start but can i with this?

Is the wheelbase no more than 12.5 inches?

yes it is just about 15"

to be legal, you gotta hack the links to make it 12.5 inches, hex nut to hex nut.

u will need body panels. hood, lid, and 2 sides

ok thanks im gonna make some anyway so i will cut them shorter than i intended...but thanks again

hmmm how would the hood have to be on this?

Do a search... there is a minimum body size...

2.1.3 - Bodiless vehicles: Must be a self-supporting, structurally complete, rigid frame. The roof
must be raised a minimum of 1” from the main chassis to resemble a cockpit. The frame sides must
be an overall minimum of 1” tall (The cockpit & frame side are to be measured vertically from where
the hood intersects the cab). Bodiless vehicles should resemble a 1:1 vehicle.

2.1.3.1 - Bodiless vehicles must have solid hood panel, solid roof panel and a minimum of 2
solid side-panels. Hood, roof and side panels must be separate pieces of solid material
installed onto the bodiless vehicle frame. All body panels are to be separate pieces from the
complete structural frame. Body panels must be solidly installed in a manner that is
representative of a 1:1 vehicle. It is required that at least one point of the side-panel must
reach to a span of 1” tall or more & at least one other point of the side-panel must reach to a
span of 2.5” long or more. In the case of a Unibody vehicle (See sec. 2.1.3.2 for Unibody
definition). The Unibody is considered to have all body panels needed without having to add
separate body panels as long as the hood, roof & side panel areas meet all the general panel &
side-panel size requirements above.

2.1.3.2 - Unibody – Constructed of a single piece of solid material (fiberglass, aluminum,
plastic, etc) and must be self supporting. A Unibody cannot be fastened together in any nonpermanent
way such as, nuts & bolts, pins, rivets, zip ties, etc. The roof must be raised from
the main chassis to resemble a cockpit and should resemble a 1:1 vehicle.

2.1.3.4 - 2.2 class minimum overall bodiless dimensions must be 8” overall length, 3”
overall width, & 3.75” overall height.


here yea go :D

wow....thanks uhm i will make some body panels tomorrow and post some pics and see if its good.....do you guys think i did alright on the chassis? other than the over welding

You also need to make sure the chassis fits this rule"thumbsup"

2.1.3.4 - 2.2 class minimum overall bodiless dimensions must be 8” overall length, 3”
overall width, & 3.75” overall height.

I think it looks awesome! Just make sure that you fit the requirements and have a blast. I love homebrew stuff, just wish I had the equipment/funds to do that sort of thing. Looks sweet!

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1259024949
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1259024972
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1259025003

thanks

recheck that. the wheelbase is center too center of the wheels.

i was off by a little bit....
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1259034793
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1259034811
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1259034826

your best bet on the links is to get some 6-32 all thread and some 3/16 brake line. Now because the the skid mount area is longer than the stock ax10 you will need to get rid of the upper y link as when you put the shorter custom lower links on, you pinion angle will be very bad. In other words to get it to that comp legal limit of 12.5 inches you will need to do a full custom 4 link setup on front and rear. The only real major investment is this is getting some 4 link servo plates for the front and rear(unless you can make your own) and 8 3mm rod ends. also is there any way you can incorporate a skid plate at the bottom of the chassis. It would sure help out alot as you wont get caught up on those lower rods in the frame. That frame looks awsome and looks like it could take a heck of a beating"thumbsup"

You can't do that without a vendor star daddy-0. That will get you in trouble. It's called "Pimping". You will get a infraction for that.

yeah thanks i read that rule right after i posted it

ok thanks its gone now