Clockable C Hubs Question
 

Ok I have a few questions regarding clockable C's on my AX10.

How do I know which position to set the correct pinion angle? And what happens if I run my rig with an incorrect angle?

I am currently running stock plastic hubs/knuckles and a VP Incision chassis with 4 link on my AX10 which is causing the steering knuckles to aim downward.

I would imagine I need to clock it so that the knuckles are parallel to the ground?

Also do I need aluminum lockouts for the rear or are the plastic ones just fine?

The plastic rear lockouts are fine. I ran them on my comp rigs and my scalded and NEVER broke one. And I beat stuff up.
As for the c's. They are ment to bring the pinion up, but yes you want the tires to turn parallel to the ground. In other words you want the ears on the c to be directly atop the other. Or if you have slot of weight on ur rig like my 1.1 you can slightly bring the top ear back so the tires turn slightly pointing up. This will prevent hang ups and save servos. Not mention may help get you on the stubborn flat face rock.

Or you could save some money by: removing the rod ends on ur uppers taking out the grub screw and trimming some off of the rod end then put the scre back in and thread it back into the link. It will shorten the link bringing ur pinion down and correcting ur steering problem.

Thanks for the tips! Looking at my rig again it's actually tilted a bit upward. Would this be okay?

http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/a...Image106-1.jpg

I am not running too much weight...the front wheels are weighted 84g each so only 168g total plus a 10g lead stick over the front lipo which brings it to 178g up front. Rear wheels combined are around 60g.

Your caster looks fine from that pic, your servo horn is a little bent though:) Got your body mounts ready;-)

Yeah I know lol. It still works with no binding!

Question regarding weights is 3 ounces each front wheel coupled with a lead stick (1 oz) over the front axle adequate?

My rear wheels are about 1 oz each.

You're good to go . The caster angle works much better like that IMO . It also relieves a little stress from the servo .If you read about caster angle , you can get a better idea of why so many people run it this way . As for the servo horn , If its not binding , it seems like a great idea really . Allows a little more clearance when you try to nose up onto a crooked ledge "thumbsup". The slightest thing will sometimes prevent that little extra momentum .