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Thread: exceed rc maxstone 16 upgrades and tuning?

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Old 01-09-2011, 04:16 PM   #101
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was it the stock esc that burned up?

i think the next area i'm going to give MRC parts a try are the front c-hubs, knuckles and cvd axles. i want to get a set of zero-ackerman knuckles to increase the steering angle.
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:11 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by run2jeepn View Post
Has anyone mounted up any MRC Upgrades like CVD's, Knuckles, C-Hubs and Rear LockOuts? Anyone switch out the Tranny Gears for Alumn ones? I've searched around and everyones says they look like they will switch, but no Pic's of anyone doing it...
The lockouts and C's wont be a direct fit. I tried it will take minor dremel work very minimal changes but its not the same.. I didnt really look at or try interchange on trans gears..

its typical knock off its close but its not the same.

What I need to check and didnt while the axle was apart was teeth count on R/P and if it will interchange. be sweet if these gears are a little different ratio
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:44 PM   #103
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Jebster, It was the stock ESC. I had mounted it upside down on top of the steering servo. You can see it in my earlier pictures. I rolled it down some of my stairs with the body off and it began to smoke right away. I think It hit on the ESC pretty hard. So I'm guessing that is why it failed. I would not suggest mounting to the top of the servo. Lol.

Here are some pictures that my Son wanted up since he "modified" it. Nice black paint job that I helped him with. Then he did the stickers all by himself.




As you can see I still need to move his ESC now too.
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Old 01-10-2011, 06:17 AM   #104
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Originally Posted by sloppy View Post
The lockouts and C's wont be a direct fit. I tried it will take minor dremel work very minimal changes but its not the same.. I didnt really look at or try interchange on trans gears..

its typical knock off its close but its not the same.

What I need to check and didnt while the axle was apart was teeth count on R/P and if it will interchange. be sweet if these gears are a little different ratio
even though it isn't a direct fit i'm glad to hear someone has given it a try and they were able to make them fit with minimal modifications.

by the way, you didn't happen to upgrade to CVDs on the front when you made your changes did you? i'm curious if those fit or can be made to fit with a little modification.
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Old 01-10-2011, 11:02 AM   #105
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No I didnt check the shafts.. honestly I broke the CVD's faster then the out drives on my MRC. so I did not even bother.. I will check this stuff when I tear into the other set of axles..
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Old 01-10-2011, 07:39 PM   #106
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ok, so i got a package in the mail on friday. my new MVP chassis from AB Designs. it is designed for the MRC but i wanted to put it on my maxstone 16. i'm almost done with the install but wanted to put up some pics. things i did:
- convert to 4-link geometry using stock upper links and traxxas ball ends
- make new transmission skid (used a nylon cutting board like someone else posted) to pull lower links in closer to center
- i had to trim a little of one of the axle plate mounting posts to clear the ball link on the left front upper
- the stock MVP front and rear shock mounting chassis plates are connected by one long derlin piece. that piece interferred with the top of the transmission so i cut if off.
- made a small aluminum plate to tuck the receiver up in the back of the chassis
- made another aluminum plate to lay the lipo battery in the cab
- opened each shock to fill it up with oil and bleed them out properly

i still need to tune it a little and add lexan cover plates. i took it for a spin around the basement and it is awesome! almost no torque twist at all and at the same time it has great articulation. i'm even running the stock soft springs. given the total investment of $180 so far (rig = $85, brushless motor/esc = $40, MVP chassis = $30, misc parts like screws and ball links = $25, 645mg servo which i had) i think i have a pretty sweet machine.
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:07 AM   #107
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No I didnt check the shafts.. honestly I broke the CVD's faster then the out drives on my MRC. so I did not even bother.. I will check this stuff when I tear into the other set of axles..
i would appreciate that. with the new link geometry i have i can increase my steering angle (in the past the tire would hit the lower links). to do that i'll need new knuckles and i'm afraid the stock dogbones would bind up if i push them too far.
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:31 AM   #108
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Jebster,

(or anyone really) would you be able to measure the distance in between the tires on the front axle? Also, how tall are the stock tires, and can you confirm the rims are 1.9? I thought I saw somewhere that said it was 1.7 or something smaller than 1.9, but can't find the post anymore. (If you just measure the outside of the ring, it will tell me what I need to know.)

I plan on ordering a couple of these to make some inexpensive Class 1 and Class 2 scale rigs out of, but want to know what bodies to plan for.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-11-2011, 04:51 PM   #109
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Jebdizzle,

Do you use the front and rear skid plates or are you just busy with other mods? I shaved mine and it helps alot. Just wondering.
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/...a/DSC01900.jpg

Also I have a different motor (brushless) and was wondering why it has 3 wires? Can I mod it to my maxstone ecu or do I need to by a new ecu?
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Old 01-11-2011, 05:04 PM   #110
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Jebdizzle,

Do you use the front and rear skid plates or are you just busy with other mods? I shaved mine and it helps alot. Just wondering.
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/...a/DSC01900.jpg

Also I have a different motor (brushless) and was wondering why it has 3 wires? Can I mod it to my maxstone ecu or do I need to by a new ecu?
it is my son's truck and he likes the look of the skid plates so i'm leaving them on for now.
if you have brushless motor (which all have 3 wires because it operates on an AC design versus DC, which uses 2 wires) you won't be able to use it with the stock maxstone esc.


Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyracer View Post
Jebster,

(or anyone really) would you be able to measure the distance in between the tires on the front axle? Also, how tall are the stock tires, and can you confirm the rims are 1.9? I thought I saw somewhere that said it was 1.7 or something smaller than 1.9, but can't find the post anymore. (If you just measure the outside of the ring, it will tell me what I need to know.)

I plan on ordering a couple of these to make some inexpensive Class 1 and Class 2 scale rigs out of, but want to know what bodies to plan for.

Thanks in advance!
the measurement (inside-to-inside edges) of the tires is 105mm. the stock tires are 92mm in diameter and the rims (outside of ring) is 49mm. hope this helps.
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Old 01-11-2011, 05:25 PM   #111
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Originally Posted by jebster View Post
the measurement (inside-to-inside edges) of the tires is 105mm. the stock tires are 92mm in diameter and the rims (outside of ring) is 49mm. hope this helps.
Thanks so much, that helps a lot, and 49mm = 1.92" so that tells me what I need to know. The width is a little narrow, but nothing an offset wheel can't fix. The tires are a little short for what I was wanting, but I would probably have put some RC4WD Mud Thrashers on anyway.

Again, thanks for those measurements!
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Old 01-11-2011, 06:48 PM   #112
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Thanks so much, that helps a lot, and 49mm = 1.92" so that tells me what I need to know.
What I thought; the rim is probably 1.7". Usually the ring is .2" bigger diameter than the bead (so it holds it). A 2.2 ring is actually 2.4" diameter, and a 1.9 ring is 2.1", so if this ring is 1.9", the rim is probably 1.7"

For those that are wondering, you can stretch 1.55" tires onto the rim, or stretch down 1.9s to fit.
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Old 01-11-2011, 06:54 PM   #113
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Originally Posted by monkeyracer View Post
What I thought; the rim is probably 1.7". Usually the ring is .2" bigger diameter than the bead (so it holds it). A 2.2 ring is actually 2.4" diameter, and a 1.9 ring is 2.1", so if this ring is 1.9", the rim is probably 1.7"

For those that are wondering, you can stretch 1.55" tires onto the rim, or stretch down 1.9s to fit.
if only they didn't glue the tires to the rims i would try different tires. i ended up cutting one side on the front tires so i could add some weights. not pretty but it left enough rubber for the beadlock to still hold it in place.
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Old 01-11-2011, 07:06 PM   #114
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I cut my tires off on the inside and de foamed them. I think the backs need some foam but the fronts are nice and sticky.
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Old 01-11-2011, 09:58 PM   #115
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if only they didn't glue the tires to the rims i would try different tires. i ended up cutting one side on the front tires so i could add some weights. not pretty but it left enough rubber for the beadlock to still hold it in place.
It's dumb they glued the wheels on, isn't that the point of a beadlock, to not have to glue the tires? New wheels are only $13 anyways. I'd try boiling mine first, but for $13, I'd use the stock glued tires/wheels as an extra set.
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Old 01-13-2011, 10:34 AM   #116
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Hi guys. I've been lurking in the fourm for a couple of months and I'm thrilled at how this thread has grown. I'm having lots of fun with my max16. It spends more time on the workbench than it does on the rocks but so far i am really pleased with it. The only issue i have hit is with the transmission. Actually, it's with the output shafts. I can't remove the setscrew that pins the driveshaft to the output shaft so i can't open up the trans. I should have greased it all before I started bashing it around because now the setscrews are binded in there. I think I'll wait until there is a major problem in there before I drill them out. Has anyone else had trouble with this?
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Old 01-13-2011, 06:13 PM   #117
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so my son was bashing his maxstone 16 around the house and it is still going strong. he is NOT gentle! likes to drive my my incline ramp so fast that it either shoots off the end, falling off the workbench or flipping over backwards. the only problem so far is that the from c-hub screws came loose and fell off. a little loctite and we are going again.
on the incline board it was able to get up to 55*, which is only a little less than my venom creeper can handle.
last night my son used some crayons to show me how he wanted to get the body panels painted. once i get the lexan painted up and attached i'll post some more pics.
speaking of pics here are some more pics of his maxstone.
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Old 01-13-2011, 06:17 PM   #118
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Originally Posted by cath0de View Post
Hi guys. I've been lurking in the fourm for a couple of months and I'm thrilled at how this thread has grown. I'm having lots of fun with my max16. It spends more time on the workbench than it does on the rocks but so far i am really pleased with it. The only issue i have hit is with the transmission. Actually, it's with the output shafts. I can't remove the setscrew that pins the driveshaft to the output shaft so i can't open up the trans. I should have greased it all before I started bashing it around because now the setscrews are binded in there. I think I'll wait until there is a major problem in there before I drill them out. Has anyone else had trouble with this?
i haven't had that issue. i did take apart the transmission and axles and lubed up everything before letting my son start using it. you might want to see if you can get the grease feed down into the transmission by pulling the motor out.
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Old 01-13-2011, 10:27 PM   #119
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Wow Jebster. Your Maxstone looks great. I really like your sons paint job. Looks like he has some style. My boy is all about scribbles and stickers. I'm glad to see you have fixed your TT. Like I said my crawler is down because I'm waiting on my brushless kit to show up. I bought the same combo you did. Where did you get the 10 tooth gear for the motor? I'll need to get one.
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Old 01-13-2011, 10:43 PM   #120
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little compatibility(or lack of) update.

Center drive shafts are different from the losi to this.. they run 4mm outputs at trans and axle input. this is 5mm.

not a huge deal really actually makes it better for the scale guys they can just use pede or axial shafts way more beef...
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