knuckle and c hub install problem i just got the axial aluminum c hubs and knuckles for my scx10 honcho. the problem seem to be that the stock hardware wont work with the knuckles or hubs. the hubs came with some set screws and thats all. do i need new hardware or am i missing something?? |
i used the same hardware on mine with no problems, give it another try"thumbsup" |
I'd suggest using button head screws for the hubs rather than the included set screws. M3x6 or M3x8 should work well. |
Agreed...the set screws don't hold as strongly as an M3 button or cap and you'll notice some play almost immediately. If you're bent on using the set screws though, pick up some extras (AXA180) and install them in the other mounting holes as well. |
The stock hardware is corase thread and the threads in the hubs is fine thread so im just confused on how stock hardware works. |
The stock hardware is course thread self tapper designed for plastic only. You need to get some M3 machine thread screws/bolts to put the knuckle on the C-hub...stock stuff should work to bolt the C-hub to the axle. |
what size bolts are they to put knucke on to hub? |
m3x10mm"thumbsup" |
cool going to buy some today. should i use loctite? |
Very small drop on the tip of the screw. If you use too much it will fuse your steering. Also make sure you only use loctite on metal to metal..It melts plastic. |
Re: knuckle and c hub install problem Found this thread because I came across the same problem. I found a solution, so here it is for those who come across the same problem in the future. If you buy AX30495 aluminum C Hubs -- http://www.axialracing.com/assets/pr...ct/AX30495.jpg ...and AX30496 Aluminum Knuckles -- http://www.axialracing.com/assets/pr...ct/AX30496.jpg ...when the instructions call for using AXA435 coarse thread screws for mounting the knuckles to the hubs, this is clearly the wrong type of hardware for aluminum. I don't even know if it would work at all. I wouldn't try it. What you need are M3x10mm machined screws. If you don't have some lying around in your parts bin, you can go to your LHS or fastener centre, or, if you want to keep building NOW, open "BAG E" and take out AXA0109 (there's 4) and use them. The head is actually perfect for this application too. AXA0109 -- http://www.axialracing.com/assets/pr...jpg?1374688440 While you're in that bag, put the 4 AXA435 coarse thread screws in there for later. What you've borrowed are the screws for mounting your servo to the servo mounts.....which are plastic. It's a perfect swap. Happy building. *Edit -- I realized bag references and quantities might not be the same across all models. FTR, I'm building a SCX10 Wrangler G6 Recon. |
Re: knuckle and c hub install problem When getting into the hobby, do buy a random m3 screw kit. Don't count on any screws staying in when on the trail.. better to have plenty of spares "thumbsup" |
Re: knuckle and c hub install problem odd ^ my Axial 8* alloy Chubs/knuckles came with machined thread set screws. 3mm Dia. I believe the purpose of using set screws as opposed to button head screws is so that they can be threaded flush to the axle housing's surface and not cause interference in limiting steering throw as a button head or cap screw could. Don't use locktite on metal threading into plastic threads. Many plastics can be harmed when using Locktite on them. instead use a very slight amount of CA glue. I recommend utilizing "beef tubes" in the axle housing(s) so that the Chub's retaining screws will thread into the steel (metal) beef tubes for better precision/stronger threading. And because this method of mounting... would become metal threading into metal. I would then recommend using blue locktite on the set screws. PS: even if you only thread into plastic... the 3mm machined set screws will hold better then the crappy self tapper thread type screws. It just takes a little more effort to get the machined thread started. But it's worth the effort as it will offer a more secure fit and not back out as easily. |
Re: knuckle and c hub install problem As far as the machined set screwed, yes, they came with the chubs (as seen in the picture I posted above). I put a dab of thread lock on the last few threads before setting into the aluminum. The knuckles come with no hardware. The discussion around the "wrong" hardware refers to the point in the instructions when you have to screw the knuckles to the chubs. If you've chosen to upgrade to aluminum components (AX30495 & AX30496), the coarse thread screws are wrong and, as I mentioned, I doubt they would even work. You might as well pound some nails in with a hammer if you'd try using them. The AXA0109 screws are M3x10mm machine screws with a nice flat head and work perfectly. |
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Re: knuckle and c hub install problem When I built my scx-10 Jk over a year ago I was completely new to Axial rc's. I had done a lot of reading and research on it and still did not know that the course thread screws in the kit were junk. I built my kit with this hardware and now wish I hadn't. In hindsight I would have got a stainless steel screw kit to go along with it. I recently picked up a kit from Team KNK and it seems to be really good quality. I have not put any hardware on yet as I'm waiting for winter to do a complete tear down and cleaning to install. But for 18.50 shipped it is a small price for some quality hardware. Sorry for the long post. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Re: knuckle and c hub install problem ...guess I misread the previous :oops: but If I remember there was more to it then just using 3mm button head screws to attach the S knuckles to the Chubs. I believe the S knuckles openings are a larger ID then 3mm and require a flange pipe/sleeve inserted into the S knuckle(s) Both upper and lower positions. I inserted mine so that the flange inserts/bushings... flange lip pressed into the inside surfaces of the S knuckle(s) doing so eliminates vertical play between the C-hub/S-knuckle. and does not raise the button head screw's (kingpin) profile. steel flange inserts Alternatively these could be utilized... tho' I thought I remember seeing this type of shoulder screw in my RTR's spare parts stuff. I personally prefer the flange inserts... because they will reduce vertical play and act as a bushing, protecting the kingpin holes of the S knuckle as well... The flange inserts will offer a longer consumable life for the S knuckles. ...just replace the flange/bushing when they've worn |
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They also act as a bushing of sorts. |
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If the flange/bushings start to wear... replace them, before S knuckle damage/wear can occur. ^ smartest deal for increasing S knuckle consumable life/use. glad you mentioned that "thumbsup" I had to doctor my previous but you's gets 'da credit fo' dat :mrgreen: |
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