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Old 04-19-2006, 09:48 PM   #1
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Default Lots of TLT questions from a noob UPDADED !

Hey everyone , im now very interested in buying a tamiya TLT-1.

I plan on
- Extending links to give it a 1/10 wheel base
- Upgrade to 2.2 Wheels and tires
- Getting a lathe motor
- Possibly upgrade the Tranny
- Definately getting savage shocks

With that being said, I need some major help... Please dont flame me , im just finding out now so i will have no future noob questions , I dont want to be a noob, i want respect

1. How do I mount "2.2" wheels and tires ?

2. How do people make beadlocks ? Do they modify something on the wheel and than add a big washer ? I saw a tutorial on this but didn't totally understand. Right now im under the impression that you add plastic to the inside than just bolt on a big circle of plastic

3. Around how fast does a 55t lathe go ? A 45t ?

4. Will I be able to fit a rustler/ stamped tranny into a STOCK rockbuster or max climber chassis ? Is there a tutorial on this ?

5. WHEN I upgrade to savage shocks, How will I mount them ? Is there a tutorial on this ?

6. Which of these upgrades will work with a stock rockbust or max climber chassis ?

- Extending links to give it a 1/10 wheel base
- Upgrade to 2.2 Wheels and tires
- Getting a lathe motor
- Possibly upgrade the Tranny
- Definately getting savage shocks

7. Whats the difference between a mechanical speed control and an electric speed control ?

8. Is the TLT the best truck to start with ?

9. With all that being said, Im going to be using mostly stock parts except links, wheels and tires, Tranny maybe, shocks (savage) and the motor should I get the Max climber or the rock buster.

10. Whats better about the max climber relative to the rock buster ?

11. If i extend the wheel base, Will I just need to change the links ? What about drive shafts ?

Thanks everyone, Sry im such a noob, I just dont wanna have to suffer with a nylint (I dont own one and I never will , nor will I want to I hate nylints )


EDIT :

12. If I want to run rear steer can I just "y" bridge the servos so I can use a two channel? If i do this will i always be using rear steer though ?

13. Which stickers and paint make the truck have the best articulation possible ?

UPDADES:

14. Where can I order a complete tranny from a rustler or stampede new . On tower hobbies It only sells gearbox halves. Please tell me all I need with links too plz

Last edited by joshm101; 04-20-2006 at 04:28 PM.
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:05 PM   #2
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Ok Ive done some editing for you...


I plan on
- Extending links to give it a 1/10 wheel base Shoot for a 12-12.5in wheelbase
- Upgrade to 2.2 Wheels and tires Really any 2.2 wheel will work/tire
- Getting a lathe motor Good idea, gives you that extra crawlability
- Possibly upgrade the Tranny DO THIS! Stampede elctric tranny, or like tranny will work well. Also can then run slider drive shafts off a stampede
- Definately getting savage shocks Might be too long for what you want. $in shocks seem to be the going lenght EX: Tmaxx Shocks

With that being said, I need some major help... Please dont flame me , im just finding out now so i will have no future noob questions , I dont want to be a noob, i want respect

1. How do I mount "2.2" wheels and tires ? Other than narrowing the wheels, 2.2 wheels are a direct bolt on.

2. How do people make beadlocks ? Do they modify something on the wheel and than add a big washer ? I saw a tutorial on this but didn't totally understand. Right now im under the impression that you add plastic to the inside than just bolt on a big circle of plastic For one re read that thread on the homemade bead locks. But in short one washer is glued to the wheel, and then the other is bolted too it with the tire lip/bead between the two. Like i said re read it it will make more sense.

3. Around how fast does a 55t lathe go ? A 45t ? It will be slow. Maby a fast walking pace? A 45 a little faster.

4. Will I be able to fit a rustler/ stamped tranny into a STOCK rockbuster or max climber chassis ? Is there a tutorial on this ? YES! Can fit it with out a problem, you will want to cut some off the bottom to gain some GC, and you will have to drill 4 holes, pending on how you mount it...Search stampede tranny in TLT, and I am sure sometihng will come up...Also I did this same thing so if you need more help let me know.

5. WHEN I upgrade to savage shocks, How will I mount them ? Is there a tutorial on this ? Kinda what ever works for you set up..Just look through the TLT forum, and see how others have done this, there are a few different ways.

6. Which of these upgrades will work with a stock rockbust or max climber chassis ?

- Extending links to give it a 1/10 wheel base
- Upgrade to 2.2 Wheels and tires
- Getting a lathe motor
- Possibly upgrade the Tranny
- Definately getting savage shocks
ALL of them can be done.

7. Whats the difference between a mechanical speed control and an electric speed control ? In short, mech. sucks...Pick up a Tekin Rebel 2, or like ESC, works great, has reverse, very smooth perfect for RC Crawling!

8. Is the TLT the best truck to start with ? In my opinion..Yes. It was my first hobby grade RC kit, and I have had no real issues at all with it. Great little truck thast can take a serious beating!!! Id get one..ultimatehobbies.com has um for 80$ for the kit

9. With all that being said, Im going to be using mostly stock parts except links, wheels and tires, Tranny maybe, shocks (savage) and the motor should I get the Max climber or the rock buster. Rock Buster..its cheaper, and has everything you will need, what you dont use you can most likely sell and use for other parts. Only real differance is that the MAx Climber has stronger axle shafts, which can be bought seperately for pretty cheap...just go with the Rock Buster.

10. Whats better about the max climber relative to the rock buster ? The shafts...But untill you break a stock one you wont have a prob

11. If i extend the wheel base, Will I just need to change the links ? What about drive shafts ? Yes the links, and the drive shafts. The pede ones or tmaxx 2.5 ones will all be long enough, and if there not you can mod them to be longer...Its very simple.

Thanks everyone, Sry im such a noob, I just dont wanna have to suffer with a nylint (I dont own one and I never will , nor will I want to I hate nylints )


EDIT :

12. If I want to run rear steer can I just "y" bridge the servos so I can use a two channel? If i do this will i always be using rear steer though ? I dont know on the Y cord...I dont have rear steer...But a 3ch TQ3 radio is cheap and works awsome!!! Get one!

13. Which stickers and paint make the truck have the best articulation possible ?

If tou have any more questions post up or shoot me a PM!

Christian
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:06 PM   #3
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PM microgoat
He is offering to take a newb under his wing for a month that is interested in TLT's.
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:07 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double J
PM microgoat
He is offering to take a newb under his wing for a month that is interested in TLT's.
I already posted on that thred
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:09 PM   #5
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Just saw that..
Sorry.
I'll recomend you..
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:10 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by customxprone1
Ok Ive done some editing for you...


I plan on
- Extending links to give it a 1/10 wheel base Shoot for a 12-12.5in wheelbase
- Upgrade to 2.2 Wheels and tires Really any 2.2 wheel will work/tire
- Getting a lathe motor Good idea, gives you that extra crawlability
- Possibly upgrade the Tranny DO THIS! Stampede elctric tranny, or like tranny will work well. Also can then run slider drive shafts off a stampede
- Definately getting savage shocks Might be too long for what you want. $in shocks seem to be the going lenght EX: Tmaxx Shocks

With that being said, I need some major help... Please dont flame me , im just finding out now so i will have no future noob questions , I dont want to be a noob, i want respect

1. How do I mount "2.2" wheels and tires ? Other than narrowing the wheels, 2.2 wheels are a direct bolt on.

2. How do people make beadlocks ? Do they modify something on the wheel and than add a big washer ? I saw a tutorial on this but didn't totally understand. Right now im under the impression that you add plastic to the inside than just bolt on a big circle of plastic For one re read that thread on the homemade bead locks. But in short one washer is glued to the wheel, and then the other is bolted too it with the tire lip/bead between the two. Like i said re read it it will make more sense.

3. Around how fast does a 55t lathe go ? A 45t ? It will be slow. Maby a fast walking pace? A 45 a little faster.

4. Will I be able to fit a rustler/ stamped tranny into a STOCK rockbuster or max climber chassis ? Is there a tutorial on this ? YES! Can fit it with out a problem, you will want to cut some off the bottom to gain some GC, and you will have to drill 4 holes, pending on how you mount it...Search stampede tranny in TLT, and I am sure sometihng will come up...Also I did this same thing so if you need more help let me know.

5. WHEN I upgrade to savage shocks, How will I mount them ? Is there a tutorial on this ? Kinda what ever works for you set up..Just look through the TLT forum, and see how others have done this, there are a few different ways.

6. Which of these upgrades will work with a stock rockbust or max climber chassis ?

- Extending links to give it a 1/10 wheel base
- Upgrade to 2.2 Wheels and tires
- Getting a lathe motor
- Possibly upgrade the Tranny
- Definately getting savage shocks
ALL of them can be done.

7. Whats the difference between a mechanical speed control and an electric speed control ? In short, mech. sucks...Pick up a Tekin Rebel 2, or like ESC, works great, has reverse, very smooth perfect for RC Crawling!

8. Is the TLT the best truck to start with ? In my opinion..Yes. It was my first hobby grade RC kit, and I have had no real issues at all with it. Great little truck thast can take a serious beating!!! Id get one..ultimatehobbies.com has um for 80$ for the kit

9. With all that being said, Im going to be using mostly stock parts except links, wheels and tires, Tranny maybe, shocks (savage) and the motor should I get the Max climber or the rock buster. Rock Buster..its cheaper, and has everything you will need, what you dont use you can most likely sell and use for other parts. Only real differance is that the MAx Climber has stronger axle shafts, which can be bought seperately for pretty cheap...just go with the Rock Buster.

10. Whats better about the max climber relative to the rock buster ? The shafts...But untill you break a stock one you wont have a prob

11. If i extend the wheel base, Will I just need to change the links ? What about drive shafts ? Yes the links, and the drive shafts. The pede ones or tmaxx 2.5 ones will all be long enough, and if there not you can mod them to be longer...Its very simple.

Thanks everyone, Sry im such a noob, I just dont wanna have to suffer with a nylint (I dont own one and I never will , nor will I want to I hate nylints )


EDIT :

12. If I want to run rear steer can I just "y" bridge the servos so I can use a two channel? If i do this will i always be using rear steer though ? I dont know on the Y cord...I dont have rear steer...But a 3ch TQ3 radio is cheap and works awsome!!! Get one!

13. Which stickers and paint make the truck have the best articulation possible ?

If tou have any more questions post up or shoot me a PM!

Christian


Hey , thanks for the quick response. That helped me sooo much you wouldn't even believe it. Can i just make my own drive shaft? If so out of what ?
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:10 PM   #7
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Try searching a bit – these topics are brought up a lot, and there are all sorts of threads out there that go into each topic in detail. That being said:

1. I believe 2.2 wheels should mount right up
2. Most people use “rock rings” to get the beadlock look. For the most part, it is just a metal ring that screws/glues to the wheel, but does not actually give beadlock functionality.
3. Most rigs that use a 55t motor have a top speed close to a walking pace, a 45t would be a bit faster.
4. Search around a bit. I am pretty sure someone has done it before, but it isn’t a drop-in mod at all
5. Savage shocks may be a bit too long. 4 inch (Maxx size) shocks seem to be all you really need.
6. That depends on how much modding you want to do to the stock chassis.
7. Mechanical speed controls use a servo to move a wiper arm, something like turning a dimmer switch. Electronic speed controls convert the radio signal directly into pulses that are sent to the motor. Do yourself a favor, and start out with an ESC.
8. Best? That depends on many factors, but they are definitely a solid choice – especially if you like the “scale” look.
9. Either one – they are basically the same. The battery mounting is different, and the Max Climber has “upgraded” shafts, I believe. Other than that, the differences are purely cosmetic – different color chassis, wheels, different body.
10. See #9
11. You may want to think about running sliders – Pede or Maxx style
12. Yeah, a Y-Harness will work. And yes, it will be full-time 4WS then. Make sure the servos are set up so that you have “regular” 4WS, not crabwalking (having them both turn the same direction, causing the truck to slide sideways). And make sure your ESC has a good BEC rating (BEC = Battery Elimination Circuit). A High BEC will give you the power you will need to run two servos off the main battery.

Edit: All that typing, and people already beat me to it. Oh well

Last edited by Mad Scientist; 04-19-2006 at 10:13 PM.
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshm101
Hey , thanks for the quick response. That helped me sooo much you wouldn't even believe it. Can i just make my own drive shaft? If so out of what ?
Not a problem..Glad to help. As for the shafts...To make them longer, you can use two male ends on the tranny and axle ends, with a female one in the middle to hold it all together...Understand what I am sayin? I am sure you could fab something up..But these are cheap..strong..proportional...All you could ask for!

Christian
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:16 PM   #9
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O hey , I have one more question

Can I mount a regular stick pack styled 7.2v pack on a stock tlt chassis, if not what mads need to be done ?
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:19 PM   #10
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yupp you sure can...Depending on how your links are you have a few options..

1. I have min sitting up in the chassis, and off the front of it...Not the best but works for now.

2. If you run the suspension links like on the Bender rigs, who ca lay it on the links the selves...Better way, keeps the weight low.

3. Take apart your pack and make it to sit on the axle or on the servo etc...

Basiclly just get it as low as possible, while still having full articulation.

Christian
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by customxprone1
yupp you sure can...Depending on how your links are you have a few options..

1. I have min sitting up in the chassis, and off the front of it...Not the best but works for now.

2. If you run the suspension links like on the Bender rigs, who ca lay it on the links the selves...Better way, keeps the weight low.

3. Take apart your pack and make it to sit on the axle or on the servo etc...

Basiclly just get it as low as possible, while still having full articulation.

Christian
OK good , because i'm not gonna spend 45 freeking dollars on some stupid tamiya brand pack thats the same as a stick pack. Got any pics of your TLT and how its done up and the pack thing. Thanks - Josh
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:23 PM   #12
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yea lemme snap some pics..Ill just use my cell real quick...Hold tight!
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by customxprone1
yea lemme snap some pics..Ill just use my cell real quick...Hold tight!
Ill try , lets see some artic shots and specs too plz. And how much youve put into it lucky bastard
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:31 PM   #14
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My rig:







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Old 04-19-2006, 10:33 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by customxprone1




My rig:












THats beautiful. Basically exactly what I want. Please dont tell me you got those action shots right now just outside your house because its dark where I am and boogy men are about. Got any trucks for sale or partS ?
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:34 PM   #16
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Specs on the rig:

TLT axles and chassis plates with 1in from bottom of plates cut off
Stampede front wheels, narrrowed and dyed black
moab 2.2s
cut foams and BBs(bbs ony in front)
Tmaxx shocks
Tekin Rebel 2
TQ3 Radio
3000NiMh pack(18$ at hobby people)
Tmaxx 108 and 96mm turn buckles for links
Wheels base like 12in or something?
Discontinued cj8 body
Pede tranny locked, with pede shafts
hitech HS645 MG servo up front

Think thats about it... Feel free to ask questions!

Last edited by customxprone1; 04-19-2006 at 10:37 PM. Reason: spelling and addition
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:36 PM   #17
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Haahaha no took those a while ago when I was crawling out behind my school(cal state San Bernardino)

As for parts...Nothing really...Pretty much just bought what I needed to get it together. Took my time on it, looked for deals etc...
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:48 PM   #18
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I could possibly sell some wheels and tires. Proline dirt hawgs on HPI (no clue what they're called) wheels with cut foams. Used for a while on my nitro and once or twice on my crawler, work pretty well. O yeah, they're dirty too lol. If not than they're going on my other truck onto Ebay. Um...got some brand new Tmaxx (3.3?) shocks off of ebay...Um...I'll look for some other stuff.
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Old 04-20-2006, 09:14 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshm101
Hey , thanks for the quick response. That helped me sooo much you wouldn't even believe it. Can i just make my own drive shaft? If so out of what ?

Use Stampede shafts and yokes to make new drives shafts.

I recommend these yokes. They are costly but less prone to failure. The yoke that goes ont he axle will have to be ground down a bit to allow the grub screws to properly grab the pinion. It's good to use a tiny drop of lock tight on the grub scews so they don't walk out.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXJG59&P=M

Buy a bag of these: Depending on wheel base you'll have to extend the drive shafts. Each end of the shaft will have two female pieces with a male piece in the middel as a slider. Use the two female pieces and measure the length with your yokes attached. You may need to trim some off of one of the female shafts to get the right length. you'll need about a 1/4" gap between the to females to allow for suspension compressions. (this is trial and error). When you have the lenth correct, cut the yoke end off a male shaft and put it into one of the females again measure compression to make sure the male piece isn't too long. Next just use CA glue to fix the male piece into ONE of the shafts. And you're good to go.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXJH85&P=7
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Old 04-20-2006, 03:26 PM   #20
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Wow some good reading.

Hopefully we can get more update's on the tlt sticky!
FAQ: TLT-1 to TLT-Crawler ***NEWBIES READ!!!***

Thanks for all the help.
RB808
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