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Old 09-04-2011, 10:21 PM   #1
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Default Suggestions on MOA Axles

I currently have 2 AX-10's and a micro Crawler among other RC's. I was really tempted the other day to impulse buy a set of Bully Axles sitting at the LHS as they were 1/2 price and building an MOA. I'm kind of a noob with MOA and would just like suggestions on if Bully axles are a good way to go for a 1/10 MOA crawler or if things like the XR10 or Berg are better.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:56 AM   #2
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from one noob to another, what does MOA stand for? I think its a motor on each axle, right
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Old 09-05-2011, 11:20 AM   #3
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I started with Bully axles, that didnt last long. Bully axles are bombproof from the factory, that is the best thing about them. The downside is that most chassis out there are designed to work with Berg or XR-10 axles, the Bully axles link mounts are a little different and the gearbox on the axle is much bigger so it can be tricky trying to get your links to clear everything. The other problem with them is that when they are stock they dont have much steering, this can be solved with a dremel and a little reading in the Bully section.

Now on to Berg axles, this is what I switched over to after giving up on my Bully axles. The great thing about these is that they are widely used from the local comp scene all the way up to the national comp scene. What does that mean for you? That means that there are tons and tons of people running them so you can find build threads on just about every chassis out there so you can get a good baseline setup. Also chances are if you want to compete there will be other people there using Bergs, you can get some tips about setup from them since setup depends a lot on location. The downside is that they need some work before they are bombproof. You can get them comp worthy by replacing the Berg stubs for Axial AX-10 stubs but chances are you will break those too. The best upgrade is Super 300 CVD's but they are pricey.

XR-10's are also widely used but again they need some upgrades to be reliable. I am not as familiar with them as I have never used them but I recommend doing some reading in the xr-10 section, it should be easy to find out what is required to make them reliable.

All in all it will definitely depend on your budget. Used Berg and XR-10 axles pop up in the classifieds all the time, you can find upgraded sets that are still reasonable that may be the best way to go.
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Old 09-05-2011, 11:53 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tucan View Post
from one noob to another, what does MOA stand for? I think its a motor on each axle, right
Yes, you are right

Berg or XR10 for sure. Both are great, and yes both need upgrades. I prefer the XR even though it's not as bullet proof as my berg. If you're hard on your crawler then go berg because once upgraded they can take more punishment.
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:41 PM   #5
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I like my bullies it's nice not having to worry about breaking them but they do have some limitations as mentioned before. Eventually I'm gonna go to the XR you really can't beat $200 for a truck that works well stock out of the box.
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:43 PM   #6
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I have Bully cast axles. Tougher than hell and they put the wt. where it belonges: WAY DOWN LOW (when I hear people talking about upgrading Bully axles, I have know idea what they're talking about...I have untold hours on mine with ZERO problems, right out of the box)

Last edited by crawl-o-matic; 09-05-2011 at 04:46 PM.
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Old 09-05-2011, 09:05 PM   #7
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Thanks guys for the feedback, and thanks for the mods for moving the thread. I took a look and thought I had it in the right section.

For now maybe I'll do some more research. I just have a bunch of parts laying around and thought getting those axles for cheap would justify a slow build.

For now I'll mess around with my shafty's
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Old 09-05-2011, 11:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tucan View Post
from one noob to another, what does MOA stand for? I think its a motor on each axle, right
Yes, you are right. Motor an axle. There is MOA and shaft driven crawlers. MOA are more capable, but cost more. You can control the speed of the front and rear motors, no torque twist, and a lower centre of gravity. Check out the definitions section for more.
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:33 AM   #9
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I started with bully axles but moved on to bergs. I now run xr10 axles. I prefer the berg and xr axles far as performance.
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Old 09-07-2011, 03:23 PM   #10
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I swear by the XR10 axles. They have a few bugs, but those are easily fixed. Bergs are also a great choice.....
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Old 09-11-2011, 06:14 PM   #11
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XR10 takes very little to be reliable, despite what people will tell you.
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:40 PM   #12
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If the bullys are cheap, its a great way to start serious comping for alot less money. If you don't plan on getting very serious you will be very happy w them.

They are a little harder to mate to certain chassis but it can be done.

Also after time you can decide if the comp scene is your thing and upgrade to berg or xr10.
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:45 PM   #13
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Bully axles are for the "builder" competitiors. It will take a little massaging to get them to work with chassis. Once that is done they are bombproof and work well. I would encourage you to poke around all the different threads in the bully section. You will probably like what you find.
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Old 09-11-2011, 08:44 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tucan View Post
from one noob to another, what does MOA stand for? I think its a motor on each axle, right
Motor On Axle...yes
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Old 09-12-2011, 07:22 AM   #15
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Im using bully lightweights and not really comping. I like how they are bombproof and not having to worry about breaking parts, if you can get them for half the price i think you will have a blast!
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Old 09-12-2011, 04:10 PM   #16
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I broke a super 300 in my t1e moonbuggy and changed to a set of bully axles. I could tell a big difference in weight and feel of the crawler. I still could pull off most lines I did before, but some of the real hard lines the lighter weight is definitely a noticeable advantage.
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Old 09-15-2011, 06:07 PM   #17
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I like my berg axles. The one and main reason is that there indestructible

They are a little more expensive but we all know the phrase, "You get what you pay for"
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:44 PM   #18
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Hot Racing is what I have & wouldn't change for nothing now. Expenses for my set up was the minimal of what I didn't have-with a little research you can find good deals on parts needed. As for the rest I used what I could from my AX10. The hot racing axel shafts are junk, break way to easy. Use berg ones which had to be cut done abit to fit but lasted much longer also use berg knuckles. Made the chassis out of pvc pipe sliced in half along with tie rod-which was reversed. Plates out of carbon fiber scrap pieces for receiver, bec & punk dig. My battery is held by velcro straps attached to the under side of carbon fiber. I reused my old body and wheels/tires. I don't have the fancy tall new tires I swear by my old rock claws. It was challenging on some courses as other rigs could cross areas easier than me without getting stuck but my little car pulled out with no problems. It made my low center gravity even abit lower which had huge benefits. With a little creativeness you can do alot without a breaking the bank. Oh 1 more thing I put strips of a slippery thick type tape under the axels, don't recall the name of it but got it from Team Associated. The motors I run are Holmes Hobbies Colbolts with 10 pinion gear. Hope my info was helpful, goodluck!
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