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Old 01-01-2013, 12:40 AM   #1
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Default Batteries Explained

I've been searching non-stop trying to figure out this battery talk. This is regarding the summit, so please only answer if you know what I need to buy.

The stock batteries are NiMH which I understand are crap. I dont mind staying with NiMH as long as they are "good" I am looking for a 45-1:15 runtime.

Obviously Lipo is better. What does lipo stand for??

I am reading alot about different voltages, 6 cell, 7 cell etc. This is where I am stumped. I am also confused about balance chargers etc. Charge times, and so on. Also prices, how much should I be spending and how much is ripping me off. Id like everything battery related told to me. Also, I see stacked cells, and an extra cell at the back. How do I know what is going to fit into my rig?
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:03 AM   #2
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Default Re: Batteries Explained

skip all the pissing around and go lipo (Lithium polymer battery - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) especially with the run time you are looking for.

buy 4 4000-5000mah 2 cell hard packs (I have had great luck with these and they are cheap GENS ACE 4000mah 2S1P 7.4V 25C Hard Case Lipo Battery ROAR Racing Approved (Direct))

MAH = capacity - the higher that number the longer you can run for
2S1P = 2 cells, in series
25C = disharge rate, basically how much power the battery can continuously send to the ESC

run time is really up to how you are driving, how much time you spend in high doing full speed crap. but you should get 2-3 hours out of four

you will need to buy a low voltage alarm ( Hobby King Battery Monitor 2S) because your stock ESC doesnt have a built in lipo cut off, errr maybe the new ones do i dont know... my summit was a few years old and it didnt have one.

i find lipos to charge pretty fast compared to NIMH, you also get better performance and longer run time....

cell is pretty simple, its how many little batteries are wired into the battery pack, lipo cells carry more voltage then a nimh cell does which is why a 2 cell lipo has the same voltage, 7.4 as a 6 cell nimh.

a 2 cell lipo ROUND HARD PACK fits, you just have to run the plug up out of your little air intake vents for the battery trays.

you charge lipos with a balance charger because if the cells get out of voltage balance by to far of a range they explode and you die.... okay thats a little exagerated... if one cell losses its voltage 99% the battery is junk, and it isnt safe to re charge.. I am sure someone will come in here talking about how they revived a dead lipo but im not a broke ass and if something goes wrong i just buy a new one... This has never happened btw. Ive never had a problem, I balance every charge though.

Last edited by street.terror; 01-01-2013 at 01:14 AM.
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:13 AM   #3
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Default Re: Batteries Explained

$29 a battery isnt bad. Ive seen the batteries selling for $100-150
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:15 AM   #4
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Default Re: Batteries Explained

yeah, some of them are worth it, others arent... there are some pretty redonkulous power house batteries out there... but most people have no need for them.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:41 AM   #5
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Default Re: Batteries Explained

Quote:
Originally Posted by girlcrazy_4 View Post
$29 a battery isnt bad. Ive seen the batteries selling for $100-150
I would guess the "high priced" packs are from a company like MaxAmps.

At least for crawling, that is a brand I would stay away from.

There are many low priced "decent" LiPO packs.

For NiCD or NiMH the "cells" are a little smaller than a standard "c" sized battery. Multiple cells are connected (in series) to get a pack voltage.
A single "cell" is rated at 1.2 volts.

For LiPO, the cells tend to be a flat retacangle with multiple cells wired together (in series) to get a pack voltage.
A single cell is rated at ~3.6 volts.

LiPO hardpacks are usually used in "go fast" RC since they can hit things hard and damage a pack. Most crawlers use soft packs, partly because of the lower speed and reduced cost.
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:18 AM   #6
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Default Re: Batteries Explained

thanks for the explanation street.terror. i read a few posts on batteries but you pretty much were able to explain in layman's terms.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:55 AM   #7
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Default Re: Batteries Explained

Don't even bother considering Nimh batteries. Lipo are superior in every way.

Promatch would be another option I'd recommend for a rig like that. I'd go with 5000mah minimum.
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:08 PM   #8
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Default Re: Batteries Explained

My reason was NiMH were cheaper than LiPo at the time, but still $40 for a decent pack of NiMH

However, I got my LiPos for very cheap. I could've bought 3-4 for the price of one NiMH

I'd go with this site. Just about all the guys I run with use these batteries because they're great and cheap and they always seem to be having a sale:

Blue LiPo RC Batteries
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:01 PM   #9
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Default Re: Batteries Explained

Quote:
Originally Posted by Armistice View Post
My reason was NiMH were cheaper than LiPo at the time, but still $40 for a decent pack of NiMH

However, I got my LiPos for very cheap. I could've bought 3-4 for the price of one NiMH

I'd go with this site. Just about all the guys I run with use these batteries because they're great and cheap and they always seem to be having a sale:

Blue LiPo RC Batteries
The battery connectors look all wrong. Do i need to change them for the summit?

Last edited by girlcrazy_4; 01-01-2013 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:09 PM   #10
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Default Re: Batteries Explained

was out with my buddy today and he has a summit, he used a pair of my 4000mah 35c packs and we got 50min, thats with lots of spinning and being stuck in the snow. but mostly low gear.

he regularly runs these GENS ACE 5000mAh 40C 7.4V Hardcase Lipo Battery Pack Roar Approved (Direct Version)

turns out the brick shape packs do fit which is a plus i suppose.
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:51 PM   #11
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Default

lipo is lithium polymer. life is lithium iron.

do a quick google search for e revo battery tray size. since the summit shared the same chassis with the e revo you are limited to a battery size and shape.

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Old 01-02-2013, 01:41 PM   #12
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Default Re: Batteries Explained

Quote:
Originally Posted by girlcrazy_4 View Post
The battery connectors look all wrong. Do i need to change them for the summit?
Yes, you will definitely need to change connectors unless you find packs with Traxxas-specific connectors.

This is a good chance to learn to solder if you don't know how. Switching battery connectors is usually the first thing people learn to do.

I switch up all the connectors on my batteries and esc's to Dean's hi-amp connectors, that way everything is consistant when charging time rolls around. No hunting for adapters. And the higher quality connectors lose less amperage than stock connectors.

I've melted Tamiya connectors into unrecognizable blobs of plastic a few times in the past. Traxxas connectors do look a little more robust, but I'd still recommend switching to Dean's, they're definitely the best
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:06 PM   #13
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Default Re: Batteries Explained

What are the major differences in the voltage? Why would you use a 7.4 volt vs a 11.1 that I see on some sites?

Ryan.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:00 PM   #14
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Default Re: Batteries Explained

I was wondering that too. Can I run dual 11.1's? Id need to upgrade the reciever or something wouldnt i?
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:52 AM   #15
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Default Re: Batteries Explained

Quote:
Originally Posted by ryans71 View Post
What are the major differences in the voltage? Why would you use a 7.4 volt vs a 11.1 that I see on some sites?


Ryan.
More voltage = more power (provided your ESC can handle it). Example, if your rig seems too slow on a 2S LiPO, you can go up to a 3S LiPO and gain speed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by girlcrazy_4 View Post
I was wondering that too. Can I run dual 11.1's? Id need to upgrade the reciever or something wouldn't I?
If your ESC can run 3S LiPO, you can run dual packs "wired in parallel" so you get more capacity/runtime (mah).
Some ESC's can handle 6S LiPO voltage, but not many. If you have one, then you could run dual packs wired in series for 22 volts.
The ESC internal BEC will provide the correct voltage to the RX, thus no change there.
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