new to RC rock crawling

[dhollis]

Hi everyone, I'm very new to this rock crawling and have been interested for a while, after running around with a Traxxas Revo 3.3 Nitro truck for few years I finally decided to buy a Wraith. The Wraith I have bought is a highly modified unit from ground up, the rear of the chassis has been cut out an modified to fit in a custom rear suspension with metal link arms and all the front suspension has been replaced with metal as well. I have installed a Tekin 2300kV brushless motor with a Mamba Pro Max ESC, 56T Spur gear, 4000mAh 3s LiPo, Rover Tires and Rockstar headlock rims. After trying it out for the first time, I found that the torque from the motor was enough to twist the rear driveshaft as if it was made of warm butter...lol. I then bought new hardened steel driveshafts, the rear one had to be lengthened due to the rear suspension mods. I next installed metal transmission gears and a HiTEC HS-7955TG steering servo and aluminum horn. Well now I am crawling, I think the next step is to replace the differential gears, axles and hubs but I think I have spent enough $$$$ for now. I was also thinking about changing the steering linkages to aluminum but I am concerned about damaging the expensive servo installed. The guy who built the chassis suggested adding a second plastic steering linkage, this would add for rigidity to the steering and still have flex to protect the servo, anyone ever do this??? Also, is a dig kit worth installing??? Anyway, I am new to this and to the forum and I am looking forward to the adventures of RC rock crawling.

[KRAWL]

Welcome dhollis, It sounds like you have a good rig already. As for the plastic steering linkage, throw them in the trash and get the Vanquish Products 2 piece set. Most on here, including me, run metal links straight to the servo(also use a metal servo horn). I know you are worried about damaging your servo, but that's the nature of the hobby, and you will get much more precise steering(especially needed when crawling). You don't see that many people with Wraiths damaging their servos. I know where you're coming from as I just installed a Hitec 7950th in my Wraith. As far as dig, I would use a 4ws(4 wheel steer) setup instead of dig. Seems more effective on Wraiths. I do run dig on my pure crawler. And make sure you run a BEC(battery eliminator circuit) for the servo to get the best performance. , get a Castle Creations 10 amp bec. It's got programmable voltage on it and you have to get the Castle Link($20) to program it unless you order one from Holmes Hobbies and you can get it preprogrammed. You should get a Castle Link to program both bec and Mamba Max Pro(has a lot of options for esc).Hope this helps and happy crawling.

[k7zpj]

I would replace the plastic steering link right away. There is just way too much flex in it. I would look at the steering link from R2J http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/chass...ring-kits.html

If you have plastic c-hubs and knuckles I would replace those too.

[KRAWL]

Those are nice, but Titanium is lighter and for sure has more strength(regardless of what a couple posts in the thread says), even though you could not break neither. R2J makes quality stuff for great prices. Been using R2Js set of 3/8" delrin lower 30degree bent links on my 2.2 sporty for about 3years and these are nukeproof. Trying not to take them off and put them on my Wraith. Like k7zpj said get some metal chubs, knuckles and rear lockouts if you don't have already. But if mostly crawling, make whatever steering brand links you decide on, priority one.

[Whiplashdjs]

If u have the tools just get some 3/16 alum rod and make your own links.

5mm die
Drill out 5347 traxxas rod ends till u can thread em on the rod

[jboehler04]

I wouldn't do steering links out of aluminum. I made some for my ridgecrest. Allthread all the way thru and rod ends. Bent them really easy. I've switched to thicker aluminum tubing to see if that helps but haven't got out on the rocks to try it. Id say go metal or titanium. VP makes a sweet setup.

[mjc597]

If you use allthread and put brake line over them you'll never bend them..may break a rod end..but even then I'd be surprised..I've built many links out of 8/32 allthread,traxxas revo ball ends and put 1/4 brake line on it...never had an issue..best part is you can make them any length you need...and it's cheap...

[FlexinFL]

Originally Posted by mjc597

If you use allthread and put brake line over them you'll never bend them..may break a rod end..but even then I'd be surprised..I've built many links out of 8/32 allthread,traxxas revo ball ends and put 1/4 brake line on it...never had an issue..best part is you can make them any length you need...and it's cheap...

I did the same thing but for my scx10. Parts cost me about $40 and I still have extra material if I need to make more. It's definitely the way to go, plus in my opinion it was fun and to see everyone's reaction when I tell them I made them, it's pretty cool.

[Whiplashdjs]

Originally Posted by jboehler04

I wouldn't do steering links out of aluminum. I made some for my ridgecrest. Allthread all the way thru and rod ends. Bent them really easy. I've switched to thicker aluminum tubing to see if that helps but haven't got out on the rocks to try it. Id say go metal or titanium. VP makes a sweet setup.

# 1. Don't use aluminum tubing, use rod

#2. I'm running all homemade alum tierods, draglinks on ridgecrest and
Xr10's and not one has broken or bent

#3. Alum is metal Lol

[jboehler04]

i meant steel. and what do you mean use rod. like solid rod or?

[Whiplashdjs]

Yes. Solid 3/16 alum rod. Even with clearance bends for the ridgecrest front axle and also on the xr10's for clearance for max steering I have yet to bend one alum rod I've made. And they r only 6061 rod. I bought enough rod stock from eBay to build 6 complete suspension links for about 32$

[jboehler04]

I actually spilt my steering links into two links going from servo to each wheel. Don't have the long one going across from one wheel to the other.

[jboehler04]

But I'll look into that rod. As I wanna redo my suspension links as well.

[Whiplashdjs]

First use something to put a small taper on the end of the rod so it's easier to start the die, I like a 5mm die myself. Then drill out the rod end a little so the rod threads on without u turning blue in the face from trying to get it started. I don't remember the exact drill bit I use, I measure it (digital calipers) every time so the rod end is about .7mm smaller than the freshly threaded rod