Building a Dingo kit, got what I need, but what do I *want*?

[DeoreDX]

So I'll be building my first RC kit ever. I'm new to the RC hobby stuff and right now as far as spare parts, tools, fluids, etc I really don't have anything so you can assume I have nothing. I've looked over the build instructions. Watched the URC build videos. I'm confident I have everything I need to build the dingo as far as tools, I have a big 12 drawer rolling tool chest filled with just about everything.

-full set of hex drivers (not horrible keys but actual handled drivers and 1/4 chuck long stem bits too).
-Needle Noses galore. small medium and large if need be.
-Razors of all different shapes and sizes.
-Side cutter. Dykes. Microsheer flush cutters. You name it I got it.
-soldering iron. Soldering gun. I don't plan on soldering anything but a project isn't a project unless I burn myself.

Now you guys are the experienced experts and from the looks of it many of you have done this a thousand time, often a thousand times on the same chassis. What else do you guys have on your workbench that makes life easier building your RC's? Like when I replaced the shocks on my wife car, reading the instructions is all well and good but I wouldn't have been able to get the old shock out without a 2x4 and a BFH to beat on it to get it out. Or maybe the RC equivalent of the magnetic screw holder so I can lose all of the screws in my garage at once instead of only one screw.

The Kit comes with oils and grease and some blue thread lock. Do any of these suck and is best put in the circular file? Are there better options that's best to use now before I assemble the Dingo kit?

For mods I already plan on using Traxxas steel balls and link ends, 4 linking the front with custom links, and contrary to popular opinion I will be running an open Diff in the front. If anyone has any other cheap/free "While you are building it you should do this" type of mod or deviation from the Axial build instructions that will help the longevity and performance of the Dingo I would love to hear them!

[axial 4x4 crawler]

Well go over to the tip and trick thread in the scx-10 section, trust me it will have every mod you are looking for. No point in saying what they are while you can go over to that thread and it will help you, - axial 4x4 crawler

[scalemadness]

I have an scx10 honcho that I have completed numerous upgrades and cheap mods like frame mounted servo all tricks I've picked up on this forum just use the search feature and your mods will never end

[meatmonkey]

Depending on your level of OCD you'll want a selection of shims to take the slop out of transmission input and output shafts, as well as the axle pinion shaft, differential carrier, rear axle shafts, and front outer-axle shafts.

I use HPI and Durango washers in the following sizes:

5x7

8x12

10x12

All .1 or .2mm thick. It scares me how many washers to top shaft needed on the last Dingo I put together. I musta had almost ten washers stacked up under the slipper drive puck. Everything else only required a couple/few washers to bring into "my" spec.

The axial shock oil may as well be water. I run Associated 70 weight to help slow the suspension for crawling. The stock pistons don't have much in the way of valving so the thick oil is neccessary. I cut the bumpstops in half to allow for more uptravel and flex, this required me to mount the dingo flares 6mm higher on the body to clear the stock ripsaw tires.

The stock grease is a joke, pick out some automotive NLGI#2 and use it liberally.

Use JB Weld to secure the sintered mini spools to the plastic diff housing, this will prevent future slop/breakage from the mini-spool rounding out the inside of the carrier. I drilled holes in the axle and trans cases to allow greasing with a needled fitting on a grease gun. 3 and 4mm setscrews plug the holes while in use.

The stock self tapping hardware has no place in any crucial drivetrain or suspenion location IMO. They work loose very quickly. You'll at least need some 3x10 buttonhead and 3x6 buttonhead bolts for the C-hubs and kingpin bolts. I seem to have lots of the stock screws left over after I put my SCX together. You probably already know this, but only use threadlock on the fasteners that thread into metal. Keep in mind that these small fasteners can't take much torque without deforming the threads in the plastic. In most cases, simply bottomed-out "snug" is adequate.

Be prepared to clearance the crossmember "ears" that go on the inside of the front shock towers. You'll find that the servo mounts make contact during extreme travel. Only takes a few minutes with a good file. The crossmember in front of the servo will also likely require significant clearancing depending on your servo horn. Probably whip out the Dremel on that one, mine needed to be cut almost halfway through to clear the Robotroincs horn.

When four-linking the front you'll find that you lose a servo plate mounting bolt, as well as the rod ends contact the bottom-side of the servo plate. A couple strategically drilled holes will allow enough clearance. Others just cutoff the back half of the servo plate, but I like as much contact between the plate and servo as possible. To compensate for the "lost" mounting bolt make sure to use the longest machine thread countersunk bolts for the two remaining bolts. I think I was able to use 3x14 in place of the stock 3x12.

Let us know how you like the open diff. My 1:1 is welded front and rear, so I don't even mind the spools on my 1/10.

What's your plan for electronics?

[Indetrucks]

Originally Posted by meatmonkey

The axial shock oil may as well be water. I run Associated 70 weight to help slow the suspension for crawling. The stock pistons don't have much in the way of valving so the thick oil is neccessary.

What's your plan for electronics?

Someone on here mentioned that they only grease the Orings and don't even bother with the oil at all. Says it's less bouncy and looks more scale when crawling?

[Joshs4x4toyz]

Originally Posted by Indetrucks

Someone on here mentioned that they only grease the Orings and don't even bother with the oil at all. Says it's less bouncy and looks more scale when crawling?

not sure who said it but it's non sense. They must be confused on what bounce is and only lived behind an rc. Fluid and valving is critical in the speed of stroke your trying to achieve. Spring rates are generally (mostly) chosen in relation to your rigs weight. It's pretty simple really, but that's just funny

[hellbounder]

Use the shock oil get you some better grease , build and enjoy .

[DeoreDX]

Originally Posted by meatmonkey

What's your plan for electronics?

I'm going super cheap to begin with then will be upgrading as I burn stuff out and break it.

Hobby King X-Car 45a brushed ESC
Axial 27t

Hobby king cheapo servo.
http://www.hobbyking.com/mobile/view...dproduct=42835

I went all cheap at the beginning because I don't have any intentions of keeping it stock very long. But what I don't know is if I want to mod it going towards a dedicated crawler or use it as a base to extend the wheelbase and go brushless to go faster and mate it with the Pro line true scale F150 Raptor body.

As it is now I have less than $30 in electronics and another 30 for some used beadlocks and the spider gears.

[johnnyh66]

I always ran my Axial shocks empty... they did a damn fine job too.

[meatmonkey]

To each their own. I can't stand driving my SCX's when the shocks are even leaked out to 3/4 full. Just seems way to bouncy and all the suspension action happens to quick for controlled weight transfer when technical crawling.

Or do you just run yours empty because that is how they end up very shortly after being used? I have to "top-off" my stock SCX shocks literally every couple hours of use. Gets old quick, and good shocks are pricey, and shock oil's cheap.

If you stick a geared-up brushless in an SCX and try to jump it like a pre-runner that's when you'll have to start upgrading parts. Keep it under 5mph and they hold together remarkably well.