RCCrawler Forums

krawlinCJ · 11-19-2006, 07:24 PM

Right now I have a Gecko 2 with moab 40 series on it. It works great with the links that come with the chassis, but the 15 inch wheelbase is just a bit too short and I keep messing up the steering. But I've also been thinking about building a tuber. Does anybody have any suggestions about how to beef up the steering without reducing function or lengthening the wheelbase? Thanks in advance

rkrawler · 11-19-2006, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krawlinCJ

Right now I have a Gecko 2 with moab 40 series on it. It works great with the links that come with the chassis, but the 15 inch wheelbase is just a bit too short and I keep messing up the steering. But I've also been thinking about building a tuber. Does anybody have any suggestions about how to beef up the steering without reducing function or lengthening the wheelbase? Thanks in advance

If the wheel base is too short why don't you want to lengthen it?
What do you mean by "I keep messing up the steering". A little more detail and I think the guys here can point you in the right direction.

krawlinCJ · 11-20-2006, 12:49 PM

Sorry for the lack of detail. What I meant to say was does anyone have an ideas on either of the two; lengthening the wheelbase and/or beefing up the steering because somehow I keep bending it at the rod ends, even with no thread exposed.

STANG KILLA SS · 11-20-2006, 12:59 PM

what steering links are you using? pics?
sounds like you just need some beefy steering links.
i use these.
http://www.crawfordperformanceengine...R1&log_pid=yes

what servo are you using?

rkrawler · 11-20-2006, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krawlinCJ

Sorry for the lack of detail. What I meant to say was does anyone have an ideas on either of the two; lengthening the wheelbase and/or beefing up the steering because somehow I keep bending it at the rod ends, even with no thread exposed.

Also, you can check www.rc4wd.com they have all aluminium steering link replacements and also have replacement links in different sizes to adjust the length of your wheelbase.

krawlinCJ · 11-21-2006, 04:00 AM

Sorry, dont have any pics. But I can sort of describe the steering and links.

-The steering is about 1/16-1/8 inches thick aluminum with threads bored into it and a stud threaded into it and then maxx rod ends threaded onto the stud that is threaded into the hole

-The lower suspension links are the ones that come with the gecko 2 chassis with maxx rod ends. The uppers are about the same lenth, but just made out of solid aluminum wtih threads threaded onto them with maxx rod ends on them

That's the best I can do. I'm sorry if I sound a bit like a newb, it's just that my mechanical based knowledge is more around the 1:1 stuff my father and I do; I've had my crawler for a while, it's just that I don't know which stuff I ashould get for the smaller rig since I've never really had the chance to be able to change it around. I've only been able to cannabalize parts off of my non-running t-maxx.

Grizzly4x4 · 11-21-2006, 12:55 PM

If your steering links are 1/16" - 1/8" then I would suggest purchasing or buying links made from 1/4" aluminum. That is the standard and has proven to be very durable.

If you want a longer wheelbase then I would suggest you make longer links for the rear.

krawlinCJ · 11-21-2006, 08:49 PM

Grizzly4x4

What I meant to say was it was 1/16-1/8 inch thick tube with threads bored into it.......sorry

Question 1: If I were to only lengthen the rear, would that make the rig a little less balanced?

Question 2: I stated in the beginning of the thread that I might possibly start building a tuber this winter. What's the best stuff to build one out of? I was kind of thinking about just running to the local Home Depot and picking up a couple feet of 1/4 (should I go lighter?) steel rod and building a jeep or bronco based buggy of sorts.

(Sorry, I know it's waayyyyyyyyyyy late) But how did Rod Pepper like like the 2.2 clone you built him of his jeep? I don't know him but I remember seeing him in some of the old Rick Russel off-road videos.

krawlinCJ · 11-22-2006, 08:33 PM

I just went and looked at my servo and it's a JR sport 125MG

mrpink · 11-22-2006, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krawlinCJ

What I meant to say was it was 1/16-1/8 inch thick tube with threads bored into it.......sorry

Go thicker. and the servo you have is good enough. MG- metal gear. 125- 125 oz/in torque.

Quote:

Originally Posted by krawlinCJ

Question 1: If I were to only lengthen the rear, would that make the rig a little less balanced?

as long as the majority of the weight stays toward the front you should be fine- you can always move something to the rear of the rig to balance it back out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by krawlinCJ

Question 2: I stated in the beginning of the thread that I might possibly start building a tuber this winter. What's the best stuff to build one out of? I was kind of thinking about just running to the local Home Depot and picking up a couple feet of 1/4 (should I go lighter?) steel rod and building a jeep or bronco based buggy of sorts.

short answer; brake line tubing. long answer: http://www.rccrawler.com/tuber.htm read there. ask here. repeat.

krawlinCJ · 11-22-2006, 09:03 PM

Thanks, I guess that does make sense to just extend the rear; puts the weight up from gets better flex, and it's less work

But just to be safe, for a general purpose crawler, what would you say is a good wheel base?

Tanis · 11-23-2006, 09:36 PM

16-17" wheelbase. Also the JR servo puts out 142 oz/in at 6 volts. They are a pretty good servo, but my buddy has gone through seven of them in the last 3 months. His rig weighs almost 12 pounds though. Good luck with your truck. My JR 125 lasted over a year in a stock tlt.

krawlinCJ · 11-25-2006, 05:45 AM

Cool, thanks. Those are the wheel base numbers I was hoping to hear. As far as the servo, it's lasted me almost a year of full throttle pounding with moab 40 series, so it must be good

Now I'm debating, modify my Gecko 2 or go tuber

?...................

krawlinCJ · 11-25-2006, 03:48 PM

Well my Jr sport 125 mg just toook a big ol crap today. So what I"m gonna do for now is cannabalize my hi-tec 645 mg off of my t-maxx for now until I get another one. I have a leftover Traxxas 2018 & 2055 from my t-maxx. Can I take the gears out of the 125 mg and put them in the 2018 or the 2055 to replace my crappy rear servo?

11-19-2006, 07:24 PM	#1
krawlinCJ Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Enterprise Posts: 194	Any Suggestions Right now I have a Gecko 2 with moab 40 series on it. It works great with the links that come with the chassis, but the 15 inch wheelbase is just a bit too short and I keep messing up the steering. But I've also been thinking about building a tuber. Does anybody have any suggestions about how to beef up the steering without reducing function or lengthening the wheelbase? Thanks in advance

11-21-2006, 08:49 PM	#8
krawlinCJ Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Enterprise Posts: 194	Grizzly4x4 What I meant to say was it was 1/16-1/8 inch thick tube with threads bored into it.......sorry Question 1: If I were to only lengthen the rear, would that make the rig a little less balanced? Question 2: I stated in the beginning of the thread that I might possibly start building a tuber this winter. What's the best stuff to build one out of? I was kind of thinking about just running to the local Home Depot and picking up a couple feet of 1/4 (should I go lighter?) steel rod and building a jeep or bronco based buggy of sorts. (Sorry, I know it's waayyyyyyyyyyy late) But how did Rod Pepper like like the 2.2 clone you built him of his jeep? I don't know him but I remember seeing him in some of the old Rick Russel off-road videos. Last edited by krawlinCJ; 11-21-2006 at 08:56 PM.

11-20-2006, 12:49 PM	#3
krawlinCJ Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Enterprise Posts: 194	Sorry for the lack of detail. What I meant to say was does anyone have an ideas on either of the two; lengthening the wheelbase and/or beefing up the steering because somehow I keep bending it at the rod ends, even with no thread exposed.

11-20-2006, 12:59 PM	#4
STANG KILLA SS ~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX Posts: 10,056	what steering links are you using? pics? sounds like you just need some beefy steering links. i use these. http://www.crawfordperformanceengine...R1&log_pid=yes what servo are you using?

11-21-2006, 04:00 AM	#6
krawlinCJ Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Enterprise Posts: 194	Sorry, dont have any pics. But I can sort of describe the steering and links. -The steering is about 1/16-1/8 inches thick aluminum with threads bored into it and a stud threaded into it and then maxx rod ends threaded onto the stud that is threaded into the hole -The lower suspension links are the ones that come with the gecko 2 chassis with maxx rod ends. The uppers are about the same lenth, but just made out of solid aluminum wtih threads threaded onto them with maxx rod ends on them That's the best I can do. I'm sorry if I sound a bit like a newb, it's just that my mechanical based knowledge is more around the 1:1 stuff my father and I do; I've had my crawler for a while, it's just that I don't know which stuff I ashould get for the smaller rig since I've never really had the chance to be able to change it around. I've only been able to cannabalize parts off of my non-running t-maxx.

11-21-2006, 12:55 PM	#7
Grizzly4x4 PapaGriz Yo Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: In the garage building the wife a crawler Posts: 13,137	If your steering links are 1/16" - 1/8" then I would suggest purchasing or buying links made from 1/4" aluminum. That is the standard and has proven to be very durable. If you want a longer wheelbase then I would suggest you make longer links for the rear.

11-22-2006, 08:33 PM	#9
krawlinCJ Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Enterprise Posts: 194	I just went and looked at my servo and it's a JR sport 125MG

11-22-2006, 09:03 PM	#11
krawlinCJ Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Enterprise Posts: 194	Thanks, I guess that does make sense to just extend the rear; puts the weight up from gets better flex, and it's less work But just to be safe, for a general purpose crawler, what would you say is a good wheel base?

11-23-2006, 09:36 PM	#12
Tanis Keep it real Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Yakima,WA Posts: 6,532	16-17" wheelbase. Also the JR servo puts out 142 oz/in at 6 volts. They are a pretty good servo, but my buddy has gone through seven of them in the last 3 months. His rig weighs almost 12 pounds though. Good luck with your truck. My JR 125 lasted over a year in a stock tlt.

11-25-2006, 05:45 AM	#13
krawlinCJ Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Enterprise Posts: 194	Cool, thanks. Those are the wheel base numbers I was hoping to hear. As far as the servo, it's lasted me almost a year of full throttle pounding with moab 40 series, so it must be good Now I'm debating, modify my Gecko 2 or go tuber ?...................

11-25-2006, 03:48 PM	#14
krawlinCJ Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Enterprise Posts: 194	Well my Jr sport 125 mg just toook a big ol crap today. So what I"m gonna do for now is cannabalize my hi-tec 645 mg off of my t-maxx for now until I get another one. I have a leftover Traxxas 2018 & 2055 from my t-maxx. Can I take the gears out of the 125 mg and put them in the 2018 or the 2055 to replace my crappy rear servo?

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