New Axial Wraith coming soon...!

[rockinclint]

Ok, I just ordered my first ever Axial Wraith and I am SUPER stoked! I am rather new to crawling, I have been doing micros (highly modified sumo and highly modified Trekker with TMC V2 kit) for about a month now, but I am HOOKED and wanted to go bigger and more serious with it! From the looks of it, the Wraith is great right out of the box, but further review and watching LOTS of videos have shown me that the suspension looks rather stiff for serious hardcore crawling! I know this truck is meant to have speed and be an all around racer/crawler, but I am more interested in running it as a serious, slow-moving crawler that can flex really well and therefore get through some serious terrain! So my question is, what do i need to be looking at or doing to modify the rig (rather cheaply) to start with in order to obtain better flex and handling on steep rocks and tight spaces? Any and ALL suggestions are welcome.

Oh and on a side note, I plan to swap out the RX and radio to run with my DX4S setup instead of the stock gear! I want to have more "programming" options than the stock setup!

Thanks!

-Clint

[Arctic Cat ZRT]

Originally Posted by rockinclint

Ok, I just ordered my first ever Axial Wraith and I am SUPER stoked! I am rather new to crawling, I have been doing micros (highly modified sumo and highly modified Trekker with TMC V2 kit) for about a month now, but I am HOOKED and wanted to go bigger and more serious with it! From the looks of it, the Wraith is great right out of the box, but further review and watching LOTS of videos have shown me that the suspension looks rather stiff for serious hardcore crawling! I know this truck is meant to have speed and be an all around racer/crawler, but I am more interested in running it as a serious, slow-moving crawler that can flex really well and therefore get through some serious terrain! So my question is, what do i need to be looking at or doing to modify the rig (rather cheaply) to start with in order to obtain better flex and handling on steep rocks and tight spaces? Any and ALL suggestions are welcome.

Oh and on a side note, I plan to swap out the RX and radio to run with my DX4S setup instead of the stock gear! I want to have more "programming" options than the stock setup!

Thanks!

-Clint

Honestly the best mod that I have done to my wraith thus far has to be the battery forward mod. It made such a big difference for crawling. At first when I heard of it I said "yeah right couldn't help that much" until I actually did it. I used the stock battery tray and cut it up to work. I then used an RC4WD aluminum fuel cell box for the ESC in the rear.

[Arctic Cat ZRT]

Also, there is a ton of threads on this mod and how to do it.

[Bry73]

Besides the battery forward, the steering links are very weak and so are the control arms, replace them/ make new ones ASAP. Traxxas Jato rod ends, 3/16" all thread and 1/4" brake line and a little manual labor and for right at 20 dollars you have new links.
Then to also help trim the foam in the tires, there are several threads on this too.

[rockinclint]

Originally Posted by Bry73

Besides the battery forward, the steering links are very weak and so are the control arms, replace them/ make new ones ASAP. Traxxas Jato rod ends, 3/16" all thread and 1/4" brake line and a little manual labor and for right at 20 dollars you have new links.
Then to also help trim the foam in the tires, there are several threads on this too.

Interesting...??!!! Ok, I'll have to do some reading on how to do some of those mods...! Any link you can think of off the top of your head for those mods?

[forestbumpr]

Originally Posted by Bry73

Besides the battery forward, the steering links are very weak and so are the control arms, replace them/ make new ones ASAP. Traxxas Jato rod ends, 3/16" all thread and 1/4" brake line and a little manual labor and for right at 20 dollars you have new links.
Then to also help trim the foam in the tires, there are several threads on this too.

This is a great mode. I have done it my self many many times.

Here is a good link:
https://youtu.be/Deeew4LJRIo


NOTE: You can use nitro tubing instead of brake line. The nitro tubing comes in many colors and is very easy to cut. There is no use for the nut that he used in my opinion either.

[jwall046]

i think flipping lower shock mounts is a good mod as it reduces hang ups.

[Sneetches]

1. Battery forward
2. Rest of electronics forward under the hood
3. Titanium Steering links

I'd pick those three for best performance gains by cost, considering the first two can be done at the same time.

[jeepnvinny]

Everyone is giving you good recommendations. As for me, I would also recommend swapping out your transmission gears as the plastic gears strip easily... especially the center gear. Enjoy the new Wraith!

[new2rocks]

You'll also need knuckles/chubs and a high torque (300 oz-inch or higher) servo for serious crawling. I'd highly recommend Harley's Wraith guides that are stickies in the Wraith section. He does a really good job laying out the recommended mods.

[rockinclint]

Originally Posted by new2rocks

You'll also need knuckles/chubs and a high torque (300 oz-inch or higher) servo for serious crawling. I'd highly recommend Harley's Wraith guides that are stickies in the Wraith section. He does a really good job laying out the recommended mods.

ok, these are ALL great recommendations and things I will begin doing to the Wraith right out of the box, but since I am looking to make this truck mostly about crawling, what would the best option be in order to get better flex and also lessen the stiffness i am seeing in videos from the shocks? I want this thing to be able to take some serious angles and pull itself up over some rough edges...! So what should be done to the suspension to make it work better as a crawler and in those conditions..???

Thanks!

-Clint

[new2rocks]

Post #10:
Wraith Beginners Guide

The simplest way to soften the suspension is get softer springs. Or you can upgrade the shocks (there are plenty of good options, including Proline Powerstrokes, RC4WD Kings, Gmade xDs, Traxxas Big Bores, etc., etc.). But the other mods (battery forward, links, knuckles, chubs, strong servo, flip the shock mounts to lower CG, etc.) will be as important if not more so for what you're trying to do. That's why the guides are so helpful for getting started. Once you have a good foundation and have some run time, it will be easier to figure out how to tune the shocks to your liking through springs & oil or replacements.

One other word of advice: don't fall into the flex obsession trap. One tire height of flex is plenty. There are some extremely capable rigs that don't have massive flex, and there are some rigs with massive flex that don't perform well at all. There are lots of other variables (F/R weight distribution, center of gravity, overall weight, tires, foams, etc.) each of which can have as much or more impact on performance than flex.

[dirtman71]

I thought big flex was important when I started. I started with an AX10 clone with massive flex....Converted to an scx10 with 1/2 the flex and it still does everything

This is what I learned to be important.....tires, The right tire makes all the difference. Getting weight in the tires, 3-8oz in each front, 2-4oz in each rear. Foam seems to make difference but have not experimented yet. Make sure you get as much weight forward as possible and as low as possible. Keep you slipper clutch loose to start(so you can tell what will bind up your drivetrain)

Best thing to do is just get out there and drive and see what it does. Then make a change and see if it gets better. The stock drivetrain works good. If you drive smart and dont try to force your way through to much it will last. I like the stock knuckles and c-hubs. They tend to flex a bit on roll-overs and tumbles. Plus there are a bunch of steering mods to get tons of steering. If you go out now and get aluminum now and decide to do a mod later that takes different hubs and knuckles your throwing your money away. best thing to do is upgrade as things break

[Biomedchad]

Stickies are a big help and a bank account drainer

[cerpindicular]

Do the free mods then upgrade the drive shafts they twist off really easily if they are the old wb8 and not the hds. Steel trans gears metal knuckles and chubs links and motor and electronics. Front axle shafts to I snapped one on my first run after switching to brushless pretty easily

harleys stickies in the wraith section are pretty awesome

[rockinclint]

Originally Posted by forestbumpr

This is a great mode. I have done it my self many many times.

Here is a good link:
https://youtu.be/Deeew4LJRIo


NOTE: You can use nitro tubing instead of brake line. The nitro tubing comes in many colors and is very easy to cut. There is no use for the nut that he used in my opinion either.

Thanks, guys! These are all great tips and suggestions! I really appreciate it!

Originally Posted by dirtman71

I thought big flex was important when I started. I started with an AX10 clone with massive flex....Converted to an scx10 with 1/2 the flex and it still does everything

This is what I learned to be important.....tires, The right tire makes all the difference. Getting weight in the tires, 3-8oz in each front, 2-4oz in each rear. Foam seems to make difference but have not experimented yet. Make sure you get as much weight forward as possible and as low as possible. Keep you slipper clutch loose to start(so you can tell what will bind up your drivetrain)

Best thing to do is just get out there and drive and see what it does. Then make a change and see if it gets better. The stock drivetrain works good. If you drive smart and dont try to force your way through to much it will last. I like the stock knuckles and c-hubs. They tend to flex a bit on roll-overs and tumbles. Plus there are a bunch of steering mods to get tons of steering. If you go out now and get aluminum now and decide to do a mod later that takes different hubs and knuckles your throwing your money away. best thing to do is upgrade as things break

How exactly do I go about adding weight to the wheels in your opinion? Sorry, I am new to all of this and just really trying to learn all that i can...! Thanks!

-Clint

[mikebecher]

The best way to add wheel weight is to use knuckle weights, something like RC Bros sells. I say this is the 'best' way because it does not add rotating weight to your drivetrain which increases strain on the components. You can also use rotating wheel weights like Axial sells, stick-on wheel weights from your local tire shop or even just lead wire wrapped around the wheel.

Before adding wheel weight you should make sure your overall balance, tires and foams are well tuned then you can minimize any additional weight in the wheels. I found that I really don't need any wheel weight after lowering the cg and getting good foams and tires.

[dirtman71]

I use stick on lead wheel weights that you can get from tire shop or hobby shop has them too. Stick them on the inside of the wheel. I would then tightly wrap them with electrical tape to make sure they say put. Here are a couple of vids

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SeXSCxKekFg

I would recomend getting a set of beadlocks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICEyC2PIlpw

[Creepcreep]

i don't know if this is a widely recognized option for wheel weighting, but I used "pencil weight" from bass pro shops. it's hard to find(couldn't even find the link just now), but it's about the diameter of a pencil(surprise surprise), and comes in very flexible rolls of 16oz. total for a whopping $6. you can wrap it around your wheel, then put the foam on top to keep it in place, or use double-sided sticky tape before wrapping the lead. works like a charm, just be sure to do complete wraps or you'll get some skipping....

[rockinclint]

Originally Posted by forestbumpr

This is a great mode. I have done it my self many many times. Here is a good link: https://youtu.be/Deeew4LJRIo NOTE: You can use nitro tubing instead of brake line. The nitro tubing comes in many colors and is very easy to cut. There is no use for the nut that he used in my opinion either.

When you say "nitro tubing" are you talking about the regular silicon nitro fuel tubing or some kind metal tubing???

WOW! So I finally had a chance to make a few mods to the Wraith and today was the first day of serious rock bashing and I am HOOKED!!! HOLY COW! this thing is fun!!! Photos attached of today's bashing! Of course I found out immediately all the upgrades and changes that are going to need to be done in order to REALLY do some serious rock crawling. So I have a list of a few questions I want to ask to see what I should start focusing on first. Here are the mods I have done so far that were running with the truck today during it's first rock bashing! 1. moved battery up front under hood and relocated ESC into drivers compartment. 2.swapped out the stock RX for my DX4S RX and radio. 3. flipped the rear shock mount upside down in order to obtain lower stance in rear 4. cut springs just one notch to shorten and therefore lower ride height even further as well as allow articulation to move more freely. 5. moved shocks to most inward holes in order to further articulation. So far I have achieved the low stance I wanted where the lower links are perpendicular to the ground. So those are my mods so far and they definitely made a huge difference in how it hugged the rocks and articulated through them as well as the ride height keeping it from tipping over so easily from stock height. One thing I HATE about the stock ESC in this truck is that it doesn't have an auto brake "hold" function on it. Meaning, when I let off the throttle if it is on an incline it will simply just keep rolling down the incline unless I put in a reverse command from the radio. On my Losi Trekker when you let off the throttle it literally holds the truck right where you stopped it and this helps for when you don't want the truck to keep moving over a ledge or in a space you are trying to keep from going. So my question is, does this feature exist on this ESC, but I just have to program it in for that? Or am i going to have to buy a whole different ESC in order to get this function??? I purchased the 8/32 steel rods in order to make the lower links upgrade and that will be next mod to work on. I am wanting to upgrade to the higher grade gears and to swap out the gearing so that I am running SD/UD, so that will be my next purchase. I felt like during some points when i was really in a tight spot the wheels were binding up way to easily and even when giving FULL throttle on the TX I couldn't get the wheels to turn at all, so I am hoping by gearing down the rear that I will increase the torque and therefore enhance the ability to turn the wheels in tight spaces...! I also felt like the tires were jumping too much when i was trying to rock the wheels to free them from a bind, so hopefully going with slower gearing will also keep from the overspeeding on the tires during this...??? Thoughts??? Also the steering servo and linkage totally sucks and I will be upgrading that as well, so what are y'alls recommendations on a great servo and also is it possibly to do the upgrade linkage myself, or is that something I just need to buy? The lower links are easy enough to do, cause they are straight, but the steering has a bend in it and also has the servo arm attachment point, so I don't know if I can Fab this part up??? the last thing I noticed today, was the tires definitely NEED more weight to keep them down and also I need to do the foam mod in order to get more sag in the tire and therefore better clawing? Does anyone recommend a better tire, or are these stock ones good enough, but they just need to be modded??? Thanks! I know this was a LONG post with lots of questions, but I am SUPER Stoked about this world of crawling and ready to dive fully head first in and create and AMAZING crawler!!! -Clint

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