New to the Hobby. Got an SCX10 Deadbolt.

[WortownBC]

Just wondering where I should start with upgrades. Been having a blast driving it as is but I already sent a few issues. It's not as stiff as I want it to be as far as twisting of the frame goes . Same for the steering link . They are already bending considerably. The frame is twisting right when I hit the throttle as well. I freaking love it though. Also any tips on how to lower its center of gravity would be of help. Anything with a pitch around 65 or greater and I'm tipping end over end.

[Dezertdirt]

Welcome to the addiction. most of your problems are easily fixed. The problems mostly stem from the cheap plastic links that come with the rtrs.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/axial-r...i31142/p358617
or you could make your own links with some aluminum rod or pipe. There is a thread in the tools section that explains how to do that.
The twisting could be as easy as they forgot shock oil in a shock or there is a miss matched spring. axial makes replacement springs in different rates and I recommend experimenting with them
To lower the cg(center of gravity) add weights to the axle or wheels.

[waw]

Originally Posted by WortownBC

Just wondering where I should start with upgrades. Been having a blast driving it as is but I already sent a few issues. It's not as stiff as I want it to be as far as twisting of the frame goes . Same for the steering link . They are already bending considerably. The frame is twisting right when I hit the throttle as well. I freaking love it though. Also any tips on how to lower its center of gravity would be of help. Anything with a pitch around 65 or greater and I'm tipping end over end.

that's why you should replace those plastics links with alluminium ones.. that goes for the steering links + chubs + knuckles + CVD (maximizing turning radius)

or at least you could read a great thread in maximizing a stock scx10 >> Right HERE

[Col_Sanders]

There are quite a few premade kits out there for links. Personally, I go with titanium or stainless over aluminum. There are vendors here that sell stainless kits at a reasonable price. SSD and Vanquish make titanium sets. If you are on a budget, you can make your own with minimal tools. All you really need is a hacksaw, some all thread, stainless brake tubing, and Revo rod ends. Use your old links as a reference for lengths. Steering link isn't quite so easy because you either need to bend it at the ends or get offset rod ends.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by Dezertdirt

Welcome to the addiction. most of your problems are easily fixed. The problems mostly stem from the cheap plastic links that come with the rtrs.
or you could make your own links with some aluminum rod or pipe. There is a thread in the tools section that explains how to do that.
The twisting could be as easy as they forgot shock oil in a shock or there is a miss matched spring. axial makes replacement springs in different rates and I recommend experimenting with them
To lower the cg(center of gravity) add weights to the axle or wheels.

X2, but I would go with titanium links instead:
Home

Originally Posted by Col_Sanders

There are quite a few premade kits out there for links. Personally, I go with titanium or stainless over aluminum. There are vendors here that sell stainless kits at a reasonable price. SSD and Vanquish make titanium sets. If you are on a budget, you can make your own with minimal tools. All you really need is a hacksaw, some all thread, stainless brake tubing, and Revo rod ends. Use your old links as a reference for lengths. Steering link isn't quite so easy because you either need to bend it at the ends or get offset rod ends.

Steering can be raised up a bit with some free/cheep mods or you can buy high-steer knuckles.

[WortownBC]

Thanks to all that replied. Huge help. I'm taking it all i . Lol. There is so much to do and learn. I'm just excited to be getting into it finally. (Always wanted a hobby grade scale RC)

[Ditchrat]

Originally Posted by WortownBC

Just wondering where I should start with upgrades. Been having a blast driving it as is but I already sent a few issues. It's not as stiff as I want it to be as far as twisting of the frame goes . Same for the steering link . They are already bending considerably. The frame is twisting right when I hit the throttle as well. I freaking love it though. Also any tips on how to lower its center of gravity would be of help. Anything with a pitch around 65 or greater and I'm tipping end over end.

Your frame probably isn't twisting, you are mostly experiencing torque twist causing your front tire to lift. Which btw might be adding to you roll over issue.

No one seems to say this, but you should be aware that once you go down the road of replacing plastic you need to continue down that road. The plastic links, steering, ect, provides a built in cushion which helps prevent breakage in a bind.

Our deadbolt ran great stock. Once we changed the links to metal, we broke chubs and stripped trans gears. They just kept breaking until it was full metal, which included the servo. Often times it is not the amount of force applied that breaks things it is the amount of time that forces is applied that breaks things. Plastic bending increases that time.

[snapon boy]

Start with the links and steering tie rod and drag link. You will need an idler gear for the transmission hot racing or Robinson racing has excellent replacement ones 12 bucks. Think about how you want your scx10 to perform as your upgrading it. Yes eventually you will need chubs and steering knuckles rpm makes plastic that's almost indestructible and carries a lifetime warranty. Eventually you may want to add weight to the front of your scx10 if so look into brass beef tubes and beef patties for the wheels.

149 r/c worx team driver

[crawlhog]

aluminum for the steering and uppers. i prefer brass for the lowers . helps keep the COG low


titanium is over rated IMO. also ditch the plastic linls