Is it a weight thing?

[Frank211]

Bare with me , when your crawling, and your front end starts to slide and keep on sliding, ( and just keeps sliding )is it weight or traction (or both) that does that?

Do all trucks do that? Does it happen in the 1:1 world , or just in the RC crawler world.
I hope I explained myself right , thanks guys.

[jag119105]

Are you referring to when you are side hilling?

[Frank211]

Originally Posted by jag119105

Are you referring to when you are side hilling?

Ummm, I'd like to see side hilling , I really wouldn't know( don't know what side hilling is) sorry , but maybe.

[jag119105]

as in when your rig is on the side of a hill, is that when your rig is sliding?

[Frank211]

Originally Posted by jag119105

as in when your rig is on the side of a hill, is that when your rig is sliding?

Yes, just slides and keeps sliding, then I'm like Damn start over to get up and over .... Lol

[jag119105]

what weights are you running down low? I know when i was tuning my rig and i thought having as much weight as possible on my rig would make it a better crawler i ran into this same issue. I was running metal axels with beef tips, VP knuckle weights and beefpatties in the front wheels. My rig weighed in at over 9 lbs and experienced the same issues. you also need to upgrade to firmer foams. chances are if you are still running stock foams (or old foams) theyre are completely broken down

[excabswap]

Side hilling is when you're driving perpendicular to driving straight to the top of the hill. It's a latitudinal direction of travel.

If you're crawling straight up a hill and all 4 tires start slipping and keep slipping and you slide all the way down the hill, it's a combination of lack of traction and too much weight. When the force of gravity is greater than the friction your tires create.

There's a balance and once you find it you'll be crawling like a king

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

[Frank211]

Originally Posted by jag119105

what weights are you running down low? I know when i was tuning my rig and i thought having as much weight as possible on my rig would make it a better crawler i ran into this same issue. I was running metal axels with beef tips, VP knuckle weights and beefpatties in the front wheels. My rig weighed in at over 9 lbs and experienced the same issues. you also need to upgrade to firmer foams. chances are if you are still running stock foams (or old foams) theyre are completely broken down

Just those beef tubes in the housing front and rear...no weight in the wheels

[Frank211]

Originally Posted by excabswap

Side hilling is when you're driving perpendicular to driving straight to the top of the hill. It's a latitudinal direction of travel.

If you're crawling straight up a hill and all 4 tires start slipping and keep slipping and you slide all the way down the hill, it's a combination of lack of traction and too much weight. When the force of gravity is greater than the friction your tires create.

There's a balance and once you find it you'll be crawling like a king

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info, ...
To much weight is bad, not enough weight is bad...lol, what to do, so, just add weight until you see it not really working to your standards?

Is it the 60/40 way, or something different than that, or until your liking?
What a difference from bashing to crawling .

[Frank211]

Harder foams?? I'm using the stock foams that came with the duratrax tires

[excabswap]

Originally Posted by Frank211

Thanks for the info, ...
To much weight is bad, not enough weight is bad...lol, what to do, so, just add weight until you see it not really working to your standards?

Is it the 60/40 way, or something different than that, or until your liking?
What a difference from bashing to crawling .

Huge difference from bashing to crawling. I'm of the opinion that you basically want as much of your weight as far forward and as low as possible. Use heavy wheels with wheel weights all around. Beef everything! I'm ditching my cage I fabricated because it's too much rear weight and too high. Also, a heavier weight oil in your shocks can make your suspension more predictable. For example, I tried 30k (yes 30,000) weight oil in my shocks and the way it takes a lot longer for a wheel to come up or down is really nice. Everything might be different for your crawling style though

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[nightcrawler48]

The terrain you're on will require different set-up as well. Tires, foam, vehicle weight, etc. may be perfect for rocks but get into loose dirt/sand and it can be a whole new ball game. If you're running on different terrain, there is probably no perfect set-up, everything is a compromise. Trying to find the perfect compromise set-up if you have these different conditions is half the fun (and expense, just an excuse to buy more parts).

[Ninomaniac]

If it's sliding and sliding you need better tires.

[slam49]

another thing that will worsen this effect is having the front diff locked. it will cause a loss of traction when the wheels need to be turning at different speeds to go over obstacles or turning at all. if you unlock the front diff, the front end will stay hooked up better. unless of coarse a tire comes off the ground or one experiences a lot more traction than the other, then the one with the least traction will start spinning but the front end wont drift around on you so much. there is a fine line there of having more control being locked or unlocked.

with a locked front diff, everytime you turn, one or both of your tires have to loose traction with the ground. with an unlocked diff, they are allowed to turn and stay hooked up

[slam49]

even having the rear diff locked causes the front end to push straight while youre trying to turn. thats a side effect of having locked diffs

[allanon1965]

Originally Posted by slam49

another thing that will worsen this effect is having the front diff locked. it will cause a loss of traction when the wheels need to be turning at different speeds to go over obstacles or turning at all. if you unlock the front diff, the front end will stay hooked up better. unless of coarse a tire comes off the ground or one experiences a lot more traction than the other, then the one with the least traction will stop spinning but the front end wont drift around on you so much. there is a fine line there of having more control being locked or unlocked.

with a locked front diff, every time you turn, one or both of your tires have to loose traction with the ground. with an unlocked diff, they are allowed to turn and stay hooked up

problem with unlocked diffs is that they suck for crawling.....if you are going to crawl, you need them locked. A basher is fine with unlocked diffs.. you can under drive the rear diff or over drive the front diff to help with turning a crawler with locked diffs..

[slam49]

Yea, the ultimate would be to have locking diffs where you could lock them in only when you needed it!

[allanon1965]

Originally Posted by slam49

Yea, the ultimate would be to have locking diffs where you could lock them in only when you needed it!

The new Traxxas crawler has remote locking/unlocking diffs...

[slam49]

Sweet, i hadn't heard of that yet. Well not that feature. That is pretty cool. Wonder how they did it, I'll have to look into that.

[Vagos2]

I am using DeepWoods tires with stock foams. They are a little on the soft side to be true but there is a rather simple answer if the tires are to blame. If they are folding too much when you are sidehill then you either need firmer foams or get your rig on a diet. If it just slips sideways then you are loosing traxion..